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Omen

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About Omen

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    Male
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    los angeles

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  1. Selling a perfect condition 1977 Datsun 280z. Los Angeles California $15500 75000 miles 3rd owner Original paint Great condition Inline 6 cylinder 4spd manual No rust! Rebuilt suspension: Full T3 rebuilt coilovers. Adjustable control arms. (front and Rear) New Adjustable steering Rods Solid Rear drop mounts And Dog Bone Tokico illumina shocks Eibach springs. Transmission: New clutch New master and slaves New u joints New Dif mount New interior: New seats covers and foam New carpet New soundproofing Brakes: Upgraded 4 pist
  2. 6 months maybe. I'll have to check my Papwork if they checked the throttle body. I know they checked compression, fuel air mix and And replaced the hoseing bits in the fuel rail and the fuel return check valve.
  3. Seems like a lot of mixture questions today so I might as well throw mine out there too. 77' 280z. Sometimes she turns right over some times I have to pump the gas few times and hold a little open throttle till I hear the belt slip the revs level out. I figured it was just the alternator and belt going but the voltage output is solid. Then I started to notice the sulfuric egg smell when I opened her up and started to think it was deposits in the cat so maybe I'm running rich or maybe I'm not getting a solid spark? Cat, plugs(but not distributor), and fuel filter are
  4. The over all issue is my brake light fuse is blowing every time I hit the brakes. I belive I chased the problem down to the passenger side light harness but I'm not sure where I go from her to actually fix the problem. So with the harness plugged in (bulb or no bulb doesn't seem to matter) the fuse will blow. With the green/yellow (brake light) power pulled from the harness. Fuse is fine and all other lights are fine. I also get some crazy voltage ranges on the passenger harness some times ranging from 20 - 30 volt DC but not on the driver side. So a clue!. A
  5. Everything I read always talked about gluing it down but you make a good point. I was hoping to leave all the original old sound deadening material down only out of ease but if I can get away with just laying it all place maybe I'll do that then decide down the line if I want or need hush mat.
  6. Fusible link!! There's the problem. Continuity was testing good forward of the stalk and the green wires(parking lights) where showing voltage but nothing going back so I figured it had to be power source problem. I checked the fusible once, cleaned and replaced it, but something told me it had to be the weak spot so when I pulled it a second time it came apart in my hands. Bingo. I replaced it with a 16 gauge universal fusible link from auto zone until the correct parts come in from MSA. Thanks guys
  7. Great thanks. I'll try somethings out tomorrow and let you guys know
  8. So i picked up some insulator for from MSA, "The Insulator" while i was setting up for a restoration of the interior, but he carpet kit I got, ACC brand from stock interiors comes with a Jute pad SO, I guess my question is do I need, or even want both and if so in which order? I was thinking using adhesive spray to seal down the insulator to the body with the silver side down and laying the jute pad over it and carpet over that. Overkill or am i on the right track? thanks
  9. Hi guys. I'm at a bit of an impass with the headlights on my '77 280z and could use a little help. I did some searching here and elsewhere, got a lot of leads but nothing that worked so far All of my lights are working except my headlight. Turn signals, brake lights, parking lights all work. the combination switch turns the side marker running lights on and off but not the Headlights. fuses are good. Headlight bulbs show continuity with a mutimeter, and continuity from the stalk to the fuses look good and from the fuses to the headlight wiring looks good too. All the connectors
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