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  1. Whenever I switch my Z into reverse or try to use my turn signal it will kill the engine, as a result it has become nearly undrivable. Has anyone else ever had this problem? If so, please include your solution. Thank you.
  2. Working on my '77 280Z, and had planned to replace all the old bulbs with LEDs from superbrightleds.com. Last week I replaced the brake lights, reverse lights, and front side indicators (whatever those ones on the side are called) with LEDs and everything worked great, new ones were clearly brighter, etc. Although right around that time the headlights stopped coming on, which I didn't pay attention to at the time (but in hindsight this should have been a warning maybe?) Today I went to start on the turn signals. I replaced the front driver side bulb with an LED and it came on just
  3. Hello all, long time, no see. Which is good since I typically only come here when something is bad... anyway I've got this problem, see? Started a bit ago, a little trouble getting the car to start. Classic *click* when I'd turn the key. Checked wiring on my starter, since one has come off in the past leading to this problem... not this time. I rock the car a little in desperation (I'm on a dirt road, quite far from civilization at this point) and somehow it starts up. Whew, I think. I get home. Try turning it on again? Click. all wires connected. OK, must be the batter
  4. So maybe a bit of a weird problem. I went through and started replacing all my fuel injector clips with some replacements out of a Volvo. They actually snap on, its great, or so I thought. Something happened and I'm not longer getting full power to each injector. The side of the injectors that get power from the Fuel Injector Relay and Dropping resistors are all good. But the side that seems to feed off the ECU are all reading a fraction of the 12V. Weirder is when I touch them with a multi, they read a voltage and just quickly start draining. Anyone ever see this problem before? Car ran fine
  5. I have a 1972 240z, and the guy I bought it from got a viper security system and a beefy sound system wired in (very poorly might I add). I need to rewire a lot of the engine bay and the wiring diagrams available are not helping, a lot of wires are spliced and replaced that don't match up or are just taped off and lead nowhere. If anybody has a diagram of all the 10 pin connectors that are located underneath the passenger side of the dashboard it would help a lot, or if anybody has any self made diagrams that are at all related to engine bay wiring please post them, anything might help me out.
  6. I've been a member here for 13 years and have probably read every post (twice). Now I have a bunch of questions so I tried to wrap them all up into one big question with the use of a wiring diagram. Would someone with good wiring knowledge please look over my drawing and advise me if it’s OK as is or what needs to be changed. Thanks guys! 1977 Datsun 280Z Restomod 2005 L33 Chevy 5.3L V8 Motor Carb Manifold with MSD Ignition
  7. Would someone be so kind as to look for me and tell me which side the wiring comes out of for the steering wheel, left side of it or right side of it, that would be super helpful. I'm having trouble getting the reach I need and I think I installed incorrectly.
  8. Just got my LS6 up and running using MS3Pro and the DIYAutoTune drop on LSx 24 harness. From the harness, there is 1 wire that goes to the alternator to activate a low charging light. That's the only wire on the plug. The alternator I got reman from RockAuto (98-02 Camaro) was tested fine at AutoZone. The alternator will not charge. I have the hot lug run back to a fuse block where all the large gauge wires centralize from the battery. I tried running a wire from the 'sense' pin on the alternator back to the fuse block so the system has 'reference' voltage, but that didn't work either.
  9. UPDATE: After completing the install my alternator isn't charging the battery. Please see the post at the bottom of the page So I have a '75 280z and recently I've noticed my headlights get brighter when I rev the car. (Both in neutral at stand still and in motion) I also noticed that my dash lights and interior lights get brighter as well. The headlights are also very dim whether or not the car is revving or not, revving only brightens them a little and overall they're still dim. The A/C fan also gets louder and blows harder when revving. So somehow all of these problems are
  10. Morning guys! Own a 1976 280z stock. I recently received a very generous Christmas gift of full Intellitronix gauges for the Z (Speedo, Tach, Fuel, WTemp, Oil press). I am trying to delete the clock and voltage meter. Each gauge comes with 4 wires (Power, Ground, Signal, Highlight Dim) I have installed the Fuel, Wtemp and oil pressure gauge in the appropriate location by cutting the connector off the stock gauge, splicing and taping into the connector with the new gauge and then plugging it into the stock harness via the stock connector. I was able to get a image and reading from a
  11. I have been working on resurrecting my '72 240z w/ l28et conversion. In the past two years the car has come a long way. Due to lack of time and/or lack of expertise I am hoping someone can point me in the right direction on the following items remaining on my restoration to-do list: 1. Installation of interior control panel 2. Install of radio and speakers 3. Install of sound deadening 4. Fender roll or install of fender flares 5. Troubleshoot ignition/fuel issue (fairly certain it's a bad TPS) I'm in north/central jersey. If anyone has a trustworthy and reasonably priced
  12. Guys, I'm still trying to get to my first drive after a long build. Last week I had an electrical issue that a few of you posted replies, and "rsicard" identified the issue. Thanks to everyone. So now electrical issues are behind me, I think. And I'm having a fuel delivery issue. The stock '77 280Z fuel pump is supposed to be good enough for TPI according to the JTR EFI book, but if I read between the lines I think it is marginal. No matter, my stock pump developed a slight leak between the halves of the fuel pump body, so a few weeks ago, I replaced it with a new 280Z pump "
  13. Hi everyone I'm currently doing a 81 l28et (all stock) swap into my 74 260z. My harness was missing the 6 pin ignition harness. I wired the correct yellow/white stripe wire (3) to my ignitor. Other prong on ignitor has its own switched 12v. The yellow wire (2) on the harness side has switched 12v. And finally the supposedly black ground wire (3) on my harness is cut and i can not for the life of me find the wire . If someone can tell me where this wire goes or what prong on the computer plug it connects to. Thank you 74 260z 73 240z
  14. Interior box has all the fuel injection relays & fuses in their own section. Then normal car body fuses. Then a panel with a 50 amp accessory relay, a ignition relay, horn relay & headlight relay. The ignition switch now only carries the load of the two relays. There is a forth section with 6 micro relays that is for expansion in the future.
  15. So about a year and half ago I upgraded my 280z alternator to a 280zx internal volt regulator alternator. I did the wire modification and everything but have this annoying issue that the alternator won't kick on unless I high rev it past 3000 RPMs. When this happen the AMP gauge needle moves from the middle to 1/4 past it. This holds for a little bit and then it drops back down to the middle. When I do this all the lights in the car become brighter as if it getting the juice it needs. Now if I do not rev it to "jump start the alternator" It will run off the battery and the car will
  16. I have a 280z with an 83 l28et swap. It has had a 3000rpm cut out for some time. I replaced the cap and rotor last night and after about 1 minute of idling fine it just shut off. Tried restarting and now i do not have injector pulse or spark. I belive the Cas has gone bad. My question is should the green signal wires coming to the Cas have 5v whenever the switch is on and the cas is unplugged? Or should they act as grounds when the optical reader goes over the slots in the encoder wheel
  17. Hi everyone, I've been getting some advice in the build thread I've got going but figured this would be the better place to chase after the issues I'm having since it's more technical and a better setting to get pointers of what to look for. So the background: 1976 280z with an 11/75 build date if it matters. Effectively stock, save for a few minor things and an L28ET. A couple issues that are electrical-related: 1) The system does not seem to be charging. Charge light was off with the car running. I ran the engine for a bit and noticed the fuel pump kept getting
  18. Hello all! I recently acquired a 1977 Datsun 280Z and had a mechanic do a lot of work to restore the mechanics (engine, brakes, etc.) to factory specs. However, there is still an issue. The car starts and runs great, but when it gets warmed up (about 15-20 minutes into a drive) it starts to stutter and then it shuts down. At this point it won't restart. Letting the car sit for about 5 minutes (not a long time!) seems to solve the problem - the car starts again and I can drive it until the process repeats. Here is what has been done to the car so far: - Fuel tank checked to see if getting cle
  19. Hi guys. I'm at a bit of an impass with the headlights on my '77 280z and could use a little help. I did some searching here and elsewhere, got a lot of leads but nothing that worked so far All of my lights are working except my headlight. Turn signals, brake lights, parking lights all work. the combination switch turns the side marker running lights on and off but not the Headlights. fuses are good. Headlight bulbs show continuity with a mutimeter, and continuity from the stalk to the fuses look good and from the fuses to the headlight wiring looks good too. All the connectors
  20. Guys, I haven't been active on this forum for over a year because I've been out in the garage building. My 1977 280Z conversion to a 5.7L (350 cid) TPI V8 with World Class T5 is now complete, sort of... After weeks of startup attempts and reading SES codes I'm not much closer to firing it up. I did find a bad fuel pump relay and replaced that. I temporarily relocated my battery from the cargo area back to the front to shorten the cables, just in case. I verified 46 psi of fuel pressure at the rails, and spark at the plugs. I've tried to start it so many times now I'm getting concerned
  21. So I can't seem to figure out this electrical problem. My turn signal switch worked for a while and then stopped working. Park lights still work when the headlights are turned on and hazard lights work, The brake lights worked for a while but recently stopped working as well (not sure if caused by turn signal problem) So I tried cleaning the connections by following this write up: http://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2012/12/04/turn-signal-repair/ and after they still don't work. So i borrowed a turn signal from another 72' 240z and still nothing so it has to be before the switch.
  22. I found a 1976 280Z with a completed 350 conversion for sale. The work looks excellent and the overall condition is great! He's only asking $3,000. However nothing electrical works. It runs and drives but the gauges, lights and wiper do not work. I was wondering if anyone had an idea what the problem could be? I'd like to buy it but not if I have to spend all my free time tracing down gremlins. Thanks!
  23. So i bought my 280zx a couple months ago and have been having a problem where when i turn the car off and key is out my clock stays on and i can also turn the fan for a/c and heat. ive tried 2 different used ignition switches and a completely new ignition lock assembly and switch thinking that would be the problem from what ive read so far. anyone have a clue as to what could be causing these symptoms? bad relay? bad wiring somewhere? any help is much appreciated!
  24. I have mounted 2 buttons on my steering wheel and am not sure the best way to connect with wire. I am thinking about using a coiled cable, as I have seen before, but I would prefer to use a 'spring clock', which is how most cars connect electrical to the steering wheel in a discrete way. I am worried that a coiled cable could get caught up on the steering column when I turn the wheel all the way to one side. The steering rack on a 72 240z should be 2.6 turns lock to lock, which mean a coiled cable would have to wrap 1.3 times around the steering column. What do you thin
  25. Hi Everyone, Long time reader first time poster. I have been looking rather exhaustively in my home country (Australia) for an original condition dash harness including lower console harness, radio harness and hazard light harness & switch to suit my 1975 260Z (280Z for you guys). Here is a photo of the harnesses that I'm after: From what I can find online any LHD 280Z harness should be suitable for my needs but my preference would be for harnesses out of a 1975 280Z if possible for continuity sake. I can pay in cash or I have a spare pair of 260/280Z "Euro" tail lights in g
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