Forrest

I wouldn't take that for free - maybe if I lived somewhere where I could strip parts cars at my leisure...but I still wouldn't pay for it. Definitely wouldn't want to start building from that.

If your attitude is that a v8 swap destroys a 240z, perhaps this isn't the site for you. Not trying to pick a fight with you, that just made me laugh out loud. To the OP: my 2 cents is that what "ruins" a car is totally subjective, and depends on what is important to you. Obviously you should be careful about doing something you might regret later, but as it is your car, the only opinion that matters is yours.

Why do you hate your framerails?

The magic answer is DO NOT DETONATE. Then the stock pistons will take quite a bit more than 300.

Unfortunately not. Most places will try to sell you the SAE 30R7 hose. Make -sure- you get the 30R9. 30R7 will start leaking in under a year, or just burst - both have happened to me. If you can't get 30R9 locally, get it online.

Yes, I pulled off the sway bar long before. I guess I should put it back on.

Anyone who doesn't have a copy of this, buy it! It's great. I re-read it last night in the garage while I was taking a break from working on the Z. http://www.amazon.com/Project-X-Datsun-Fairlady-Challengers/dp/1569709572/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1234815806&sr=8-1

I've been meaning to do this for a while...I actually had a hard time finding pics of people's installs who had my year with my parts combination. (78 + poly mount) Only thing I had to was slot the ears for the poly mount. I plan on putting a stock rubber mount underneath later. So here you go: Slotted vs unslotted (Sway bar is disconnected)

This is why my car has been off the road for over 3 years instead of 6 months. I have been fighting the exact same problem and I refuse to drive the car until it's solved. I have the AZC front and rear, 4 brand new 15/16 280zx masters, brand new booster. I've bled using pressure, vacuum, and every manual way possible. Reaction disc was the first thing I checked, and it was in place. I wasn't originally using the wilwood porp valve because I was told by several people, including Dave at AZC, that it wouldn't cause this problem. I didn't want to cut into the brake lines and potentially add another point of failure until I worked it out, but after a while of no success, I added it in and it made a huge difference - now the pedal feels perfect after you push it down 1/3 of the way, but zero resistance until then. I've already adjusted the booster rod out farther than I should have, and it didn't help, so I'm not sure what more I can do. I did discover something about the AZC rears that I had, the calipers were not correctly centered on the rotors with the brackets I got. I think I read that the newer brackets corrected this, but I had to use washers to space them correctly. I have been doing a ton of other stuff that's kept me from being able to test the brakes, but I'll be getting back to it in a week or two. We may have the same problem, I'm not sure.

As long as we're going to do your googling for you, this should have been the first link posted: http://www.geocities.com/row4navy/engine.html (props to Bob)

I've run clear covers on that car, and I don't notice much difference, if any.

It is exactly what happened in the case of the guy who got all the attention and spawned 400 car forum threads claiming the GTR transmission had problems, and that Nissan was "screwing" him. Used as indicated in the user manual, it will not hurt the transmission or void the warranty. But did anyone who launched their car at the track, (and kept that setting enabled while they were driving) have transmission problems and have their warranty claim denied? I never read anything like that except vague rumors. Those test cars the magazines were using saw hundreds of launches and not one magazine (that I know of, I haven't read them all) reported any transmission problems. So I'm not convinced that just using the button to launch a few times is enough to cause serious problems. Even if it is, I still don't have much sympathy for anyone who ignores warnings that say "this action will void your warranty." If they can't afford the maintenance on it, then they are idiots for abusing it.

Wow, it's a shame that a few people who decided to drive around all the time with the safety features for the transmission turned off have caused Nissan to have to remove functionality. I guess I wouldn't care that much, since I would never drive a GTR in mud or snow to begin with.

I suggest a total boycott on any artist/company that pulls this crap. It's free advertisement for them at NO COST and if they don't appreciate it, F them. There are millions of other musicians to listen to.

Actually, they DID address the transmission problem, in the user manual. It's only a problem for people who can't read.

The trailer was pretty horrible. The movie was one of the best of the year, definitely. Going into my collection along with Clint's other new movie, Changeling.

I don't have any issues with ads because I blocked all the ad servers in my hosts file. http://www.mvps.org/winhelp2002/hosts.htm That way you don't have disable javascript. Easy to do on windows and unix/linux, so if you're running OS X, it should be easy for you as well, if you're interested.

FINALLY. Someone got a clue. They had a really good commercial similar to that for the 350Z, and they ruined it with that ridiculous song. It was infuriating. Best Z commercial ever is still the twin turbo dream commercial, though.

Haha, I tried Smith...nothing. Jones...nothing. Johnson...nothing. Boudreaux...hits! It's good to be in Louisiana.

If you guys enjoyed this, watch A State Of Mind. It's a documentary 2 british guys did on 2 girls who are training for the mass games. The North Korean government thought it would be good press to let them film, but I guess that shows how disconnected they are from reality. It's horrifying, but that doesn't make it less interesting.

Joel, believe it or not - that was just the first light coating. It started coming down really heavily an hour later and my car was totally covered, but unfortunately my camera battery died. It was pretty amazing...last time it snowed here it didn't get nearly this deep. I saw about 100 snowmen on the way to LSU. None of them stacked up against my neighbor's snoman though:

Baton Rouge: Once a decade.

It's a joke.

I hope you know the seller - 900$ is about what stolen LS1s go for. (Assuming it's not really high mileage, and doesn't have anything wrong with it.) If it's legit, get it - if you don't need it, you can double your money by flipping it.

I really wish you lived closer, I have several .45's that I believe would sell you. If I wasn't reloading, I couldn't afford to shoot...even though lead prices have more than doubled, it still costs me less than 30% of the price of factory ammo to load. But I understand where you're coming from. There are a ton of choices, but if you stick to the big names (SA, Kimber, Wilson, Ed Brown, and of course Colt) you are safe. Out of those, I can make it easy for you and say just stick to USA made SA - I have owned several, and they've been fantastic for the money. The rest of the those guys all charge more for the same level of workmanship. As far as ballistics...most of the ballistics I have in my loading charts for .40 list the same range of muzzle energy as .45acp. Is there a certain # you are looking for? I carry RBCD (90gr 1800-2000fps depending on the weather) - that's about double the standard .40 load....