Forrest

That's really disheartening. I bought fidanza flywheels for both of my cars and I used to recommend them...not any more. There is no excuse for their behaviour. I guess some companies don't see the big picture very well. Spec it is.

Ok, I got it now, thanks. The first time the tabs at the top threw me off.

Hello - am I missing something obvious? I don't see a way to just "view new posts since last visit" or "view new posts from the last 24 hours."

I tried out a chinese non-projector kit similar to that, using autopal housings, and the total cost was around 180$ - so that seems a little high. I definitely wouldn't pay 400$ for a non-projector solution.

I second that vote. But 3500$? Holy F! I paid 200$ to have a lawyer get my speeding ticket thrown out...no fees, no fines, no anything. He was part of a network of lawyers that regularly go to traffic court....which helps a lot! They know the DAs and the PDs. So maybe look for a lawyer that advertises this service in your area, I would hope you don't have to pay 3500$.

Hey guys, do any of you have a 4piston AZC kit uninstalled? If so, can you tell me what diameter the front and rear pistons are? Thanks.

qft

When you have a chance, could you take a picture of your beam pattern against a wall that's farther away, like Joel's picture? Also, do you have a picture of the back of the light? How far does it stick out into the wheel well? Did you have to ditch the plastic inner fender liner? And how much did you have to cut out of your stock housing-bucket, (or whatever that piece that you normally bolt the sealed beams into is called.) Thanks! -Forrest

I just re-read your old post about your brake setup on my previous troubleshooting thread. Thanks for posting that. Sometimes I really need to hear that someone else with this setup has gotten it working. You're using the 280Z M75 booster, right? Did you adjust the booster rod to stock spec when you installed all this stuff? Or did you have to run it out further? Austin, your post is making me wonder if my only problem is pedal feel. Changing the booster should only change pedal effort, not travel distance, right? So, even with the firm pedal, do you have to push just as far as when it was lighter to lock them up? Unless you also changed the rod length as a result of switching the booster, I don't see how it could have solved your problem....and I -really- want to solve mine. I can lock my tires up no problem, but it feels like too much travel and the pedal goes down way too easily, regardless.

I'm really having trouble getting my pedal to feel right...can you tell me if your pedal feels at least as firm as stock? No play at the top?

Congrats! Is your pedal firm all the way at the top now?

Actually, he says that Garrett had to, shows his untrimmed ears, and says "we'll see how that goes." Watching that part of the video is what prompted me to ask in the first place. Thanks for the info phil. I'm putting my z32 trans in as soon as I can find a place to mill down my bellhousing.

Hey phil, did you have to trim the stock trans mount ears on your car?

It should say "would be fairly wealthy if they didn't spend themselves broke on car parts."

From what I've read no one has found good replacement caps that fit over our grease caps in the front. I modified mine to fit. It's nothing that special but I figured someone might want to see, so I took some pics. Step 1: holesaw. Step 2: I put clear tape on the front, and poured some old (syrupy) POR15 in. Step 3: I wanted a somewhat textured look, so I pulled the tape off before it had dried in the front. If you wanted it to be perfectly flat, all you'd have to do is let it dry with the tape on. Step 4: I put a bunch of epoxy resin to make sure the centercap stickers wouldn't come off, and put the center stickers on. (They are centered, it's just the angle of the photo) Step 5: On the car: I was originally going to use JBweld to try and make a new surface on the front, but it was too thick to evenly settle at the bottom. I got the idea to use POR15 after I let some of this older stuff dry on a wooden applicator stick. It pooled out and it made a surface as tough as nails. I couldn't crack or break it and it was fused to the stick. Like the label says, "WARNING: POR15 only comes off with TIME."

On my (lowered) 76, fronts clear the lips fine with 16x8 225/50 0 offset, but the rears get cut by the fenders. Once rolled, they are fine. I would say you need between a +6 to+10, but if +12 creates clearance issues on the inside, I can't guarantee that won't happen to you with +10. On the upside, if you have slightly too much + offset, you can run thin spacers, but if you don't have enough, you're just screwed (get to rolling).

Are you sure it is making its way into the cylinders? How do your plugs look? Your turbo seals might be leaking.

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