Wrenchrat

They were in the $400-450 range for the set.... Those s400's and s472's are a popular inexpensive large turbo, a buddy of mine is putting 2-s400's on his BBC jet-boat. For the last few years 1,000hp has been the 'magical' number that everyone has to hit, with the technology it's very easy to hit 1,000hp and be extremely street friendly. Although a lot of the people trying to hit that haven't even ridden in something near 1,000hp. Blowing the tires off at 100+mph is very easy on the street....luckily there is a gas pedal and not an on-off switch, lol. Turbo's are nice since you can turn the power up and down from a dial inside the car, no need to swap pulley's, slowly turn the power up as you get used to how the car react's.

The water/meth system is Snow's, I do like the look and ease of AIS' system though. The 1st motor we were running 61mm ball-bearing water cooled turbos (.81A/R exhaust), rated at roughly 680hp each. The turbo's on the 2nd motor (vid) are 68mm ball-bearing water cooled turbo's (.81A/R exhaust), rated at roughly 800hp each. You would probably be looking for a pair of turbo's in the 61-63mm range. They would be good for more than the 1,100hp your looking for so if you wanted more it would be there. They would really be in there efficiency range at the 1,100hp mark.

Hey Mark, thanks for turning me onto this site. The website will be updated here in roughly 2 weeks with more information and pictures on the Twin Turbo system. The motor in this video was the 2nd one we built which had more money than the first... Here is a rundown of the components in both engines... ***Carb was a blow-through 750cfm Holley built by CSU Carbs*** **1st engine (383 sbc): STOCK 4-bolt main block Scatt 9000 CAST Crank Powdered rods (stock) CHEAP probe forged pistons 8.4:1 compression STOCK cast-iron heads 993-cast# small cam *224/218 dur., .541 lift 114ls* ---solid roller--- Victor Jr. Intake CSU 750cfm blow-through carb 21-22lbs boost, 110 octane, water/meth system.... 780rwhp & 807rwtq 14lbs and pump gas... 661rwhp & 700+rwtq (max rpm: 5,500) As long as you can keep the rpm down and the tune safe you can make stock parts live for quite a while. The first motor we actually overboosted to probably 40psi on accident and it bent the 4-rods in the middle, STILL drove it home!! Pulled it apart and the crank was PERFECT so we threw in another set of stock rods and beat the crap out of it! -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- **2nd engine (383 sbc) *In the video*: STOCK 2-bolt main block with splayed 4-bolt caps Forged Crank Forged H-beam rods CHEAP Probe forged pistons 8.4:1 compression Pro-Comp 190cc aluminum heads Larger N/A based cam *541lift...238/234 duration @50, 115ls* ---hydraulic roller--- Victor Jr. Intake CSU 750cfm blow-through carb 24lbs boost, 110 octane, water/meth system.... 820rwhp &751rwtq (max rpm: 6,500) You don't need a high dollar, high rpm engine to make a bunch of power. The cam in the 2nd engine was more of a N/A cam which we threw in to show what your typical hot-rodder might already have in the car. With a more turbo oriented cam it would have produced more power. This motor had roughly 48 dyno pulls and many street miles and is still running strong!! It's not too difficult to hit 1,000hp at the crank.....