matthewabate

Thank you both. Yes, I have two Torsens, verified by the pictures in the spotter’s guide.

I’m really sorry to revive a dead thread, but I thought it would be better than starting a new one and can’t find the info I’m looking for. I have a differential that was supposed to be out of a 2014 WRX STi, but it turns out it is an open dif, so probably a regular WRX. I did the usual test where you turn the input and hold one axle and the other one spins. I don’t think my bare hands are applying enough torque to overcome the mechanism, right? So it’s open. I bought a carrier from Japan that is supposedly an STi Torsen LSD. When I opened the case they look pretty much the same (with different numbers stamped and cast into them). So either I got taken twice or I’m not understanding something. Can anyone point me to a resource for using the numbers to identify the carrier? I saw a thread way back that showed every Subaru carrier and talked through the differences, but I can’t find it now. Alternately, can anyone tell me how to make sure the loose carrier is an LSD without having axles in it?

Okay, the 4-pin connector goes to the throttle opener relay and I have the wires routed incorrectly in the drawing. Time to update. Any word on the thinner black wire coming out of the green connector on the engine harness? Where does that go?

I have been working on creating a comprehensive diagrams so I can rebuild all of my wiring and I could really use some help with the last couple of details. I started with the full color wiring diagram that is floating around the internet and came from Classic Z Cars, but these specific things aren't covered in it, so please don't tell me to look at the FSM or the wiring diagram. Context: The previous owner sold me the car largely disassembled so I have had to chase all of the wires and connectors and figure out what they go to. In the process of doing that I discovered that my engine harness is for an automatic, but I have a manual car. There are also a couple of wires that were snipped. The first thing I need to understand is what one of the cut wires is for. It's a thin black wire (approximately 14 or 16 AWG) and comes out of the main trunk of the harness near the Seatbelt Relay connector. I traced it to the top left pin in the green connector (15B on page BE-2 of the FSM), which corresponds to a wire that is missing on my dashboard harness. This makes me think these wires are dedicated to the automatic cars. --- The next thing I need to understand is how the manual harness is different from the automatic harness for this year. I already figured out how the throttle opener solenoid wires are different, but I could use help with understanding the wires that go to the 4-pin connector on the manual cars and how they are different from the ones in the 6-pin connector on automatics used for the seatbelt relay. The 6-pin connector wires are BY, BY, BY, B, G, G (#17 on page BE-2 in the FSM) and the wires for the 4-pin connector are GB, BW, BW, BY (#18 on page BE-2 of the FSM). I am pretty sure the GB wire on the manual is for the throttle opener solenoid and connects to the speed switch on the speedometer. I assume the BY wire on the manual replaces the third BY on the automatic. I have no idea about the others. I would have assumed there was a green on in there but no. Here is a drawing showing how the wires in my harness are routed from the green connector to the Seatbelt Relay: Notice that I have two BY wires going to my neutral switch, not green, and they come out of the seatbelt switch, not the green connector. If I understand correctly, on the manual cars the green wires bypass the 4-pin connector and go straight to the neutral safety switch. By the way, I know that the wires for the inhibitor switch are wrong in that drawing. On automatic cars replaces the neutral safety switch. I need to know what the 4-pin connector on the manual harness plugs into since there’s no seatbelt relay on manual cars. I am assuming the green connector's BY wire and GB wire (marked as missing in the drawing above) go to that 4-pin connector. If the BW wires merge somewhere into one wire I have no idea where that BW wire would come from. --- The last thing I need to figure out is what the BY wire on the blue connector goes to. It's the center pin on the bottom (#15-A on page BE-2 of the FSM). This is completely missing on my engine harness, but also on my dashboard harness, which leads me to believe it is specific to manual cars, just like the GB wire for the throttle opener. I would really appreciate help ironing these details out. It's the final roadblock on getting my wiring diagram done so I can start rebuilding it. Let me know if are details I should add that would help.

The wiring diagrams are not going to be enough to do the job. I've been working on cataloging the wiring from my 1973 and have found numerous errors in the FSM and the color wiring diagrams that are floating around out there. Honestly, you're going to need to make your own diagram. I recommend just replacing one wire at a time in your existing harnesses. Here's the documentation I have posted on this process so far: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/67523-1973-240z-custom-wiring-from-scratch/ It's not going to help you since you have a 260, but you'll see my process.

I am looking for an intake manifold manufactured by Mikuni that is in good enough condition to refurbish or has been refurbished with good linkage. Please only offers for actual Mikuni manifolds. I am not looking for manifolds that work with Mikuni carbs made by other manufacturers. I am only looking for the short runner manifold made by Mikuni with “Mikuni” cast into the metal. Sample images:

I feel like this thread needs to be updated. I know there are more aftermarket options out there and that people have tried things not on this list. Case win point: http://www.silverminemotors.com/datsun/datsun-240z/brake-upgrades/240z-260z-280z-rear-brake-upgrade-disk-conversion-kit

Hey guys, You may know that I am building a ZX motor for my 240z with a euro SU carburetor configuration, but I am stumbling over the harmonic balancer I should use here. I've read about thirty threads on this topic, from the 5 or 6 forums that I follow, and none of them is actually comparing the options against each other. I only need one pulley, so I had initially intended to go with a standard 240z balancer, and if I could find one from Europe with just one pulley, even better. However, I've read in a lot of places that the factory balancers are prone to failure. I don't plan to hang out in the high revs all day long, but I'll definitely be getting into them periodically and I don't want my balancer flying apart. I also read somewhere that the timing marks from my '83 ZXT engine aren't in the same location as 240z timing marks, so I have to use something meant to go on a ZX. So now to my actual question: has anyone done a comparison of the various option for balancers? Snooping around the internet yields three basic options: a factory balancer, the Powerforce balancer on MSA, or the $350-$500 options like ATI, BHJ, and Kameari. I can't imagine that a street car should be running a $500 balancer, so I guess what I want to know first is are the two Powerforce balancers high quality (like Motorsport claims they are) or do they fly apart all the time like I've seen people on some forums claim? Right now I'm leaning toward one of these, but if they are crap, or if there's a brand out there with something sub-$150, I'd love to know before I buy something. To add some clarity to the discussion and perhaps help some other people with this, here are the options for a street application I have identified so far: OEM by price '82-83 280ZX Turbo Factory Crankshaft Pulley ($259.87 @ Motorsport!) '75-83 280Z/ZX Factory Crankshaft Pulley (Double Pulley, $219.00 @ Z Car Depot) '73-74 240Z Factory Harmonic Balancer, US-Spec ($274.95 @ Motorsport!) 240Z Factory Harmonic Balancer, Rest-of-World (NLA) Nismo L-Series Harmonic Damper (NLA) Street Aftermarket by price Professional Products PowerForce Harmonic Dampers, 70-83 Z/ZX (Single Pulley, $105.95 @ Motorsport!) PowerBond Premium OEM Replacement Harmonic Balancers (Double Pulley, $183.97 @ Summit Racing) Powerforce SFI-Spec Racing Damper, 70-83 Z/ZX (Single Pulley, $199.95 @ Motorsport!) - Note that I have read threads about these being too small and not fitting, but this is 10-12 year old information and may have been rectified by now. Pioneer Balancers DA-41(Double Pulley, $249.97 @ Summit Racing) ATI Super Damper Sport Compact Harmonic Balancers ($359.97 @ Summit Racing) BHJ Dynamics Street Performance Special L-Series Datsun Harmonic Damper ($497.00 @ BHJ) Racing Aftermarket by price (for posterity) Kameari L-Type Super Racing Damper Pulley ($382.40 @ RHD) BHJ Dynamics Race Special L-Series Datsun Harmonic Damper ($497.00 @ BHJ) Kameari L-Type Super Racing Damper Pulley Full Kit ($637... @ RHD) I have also read that the Nissan Quest, Maxima, Laurel, and Cendric pulleys/ballancers will work, but I don't know if they require modification, nor if the timing marks are the same. Another wrinkle is the 280ZXs that came with factory installed AC had the timing indicator on the passenger side (light) rather than the driver side (left). I'm not sure if that means the balancer is different, or if it means timing was maintained by aligning gear teeth differently.

I'm looking for a complete variable height rotisserie with jacks to get my car ready for paint and am trying to save money by not buying a brand new one. Please PM me with the make, model, and your shipped price to 07040.

I have a set in my head but want at least one good set of spares. PM me if you have a good set for sale.

Thanks for that link. I'm not certain all that info is correct, though. The B transmission stopped coming in the 200x in 84/85, right? And they had different ratios pre '83. I'm pretty sure I could find a bell housing from a Z to bolt on, and the jackshaft bearing from a ZX is straight forward. The thing giving me pause3 is modifying the bell housing to accommodate the CA20 shifter rods. Would it not be better to use shifter rods off a Z/ZX? Is that even possible? This is foreign territory for me. Another open question is whether or not this transmission is strong enough to work with a ZX engine. The ratios might be right for me, but is this as good as or better than a ZX transmission as far as reliability goes? I mean, the T5 sounds like an even better option, because the ratios aren't that far off and parts availability is better, but getting that into the car sounds like way more work than getting the 200sx B transmission in.

I've found tons of info about adapting a FS5w71c into a 240z, but I can't find anything about using the 200SX / S12 version of the FS5w71b 5-speed in an S30 other than a little comment on this page: I'm interested in this transmission because of the ratios (3.592, 2.057, 1.361, 1.000, and 0.813) being so similar to the FS4w71b ratios that came with the car, and that 5th gear having longer legs for highway driving. It really seems like the optimal ratio spread. My question really is, presuming I were able to get my hands on one, how hard is it to do the work described above. I can't seem to find an example of anyone having done it.