ModernS30
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Posts posted by ModernS30
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The price has been raised by $110!
What the..? Still a sweeeet price if you campare to the real deal...Yea, he raised the price more on all of the wheels actually, so I am kinda like WTF on that one. I don't have the money to buy them right now anyhow.
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More like 15 or 20mm no? The xxr 527's barely clear and they're 8.25 by et 0.
You will either need coil over suspension or to run a 10mm spacer or so, the offset is -10, the RB-R group buy is 17x9.5 -19, 10mm would make up for this and it is only .39" so it isn't going to make anything drastically dangerous in my opinion. The backspacing will be 4.36", guys with coil overs have fit 4.5" I don't see these wheels causing many issues, if anything it will be T/C rod clearance, which the spacer would fix.
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They are on sale eBay, staggered fitment for 240z-280zx: 17x8.5 ET+10 and 17x9.5 ET-10 for $750.00. Lookin'pretty gooood!
I'm pretty sure the fronts would have clearance issues with the TC rods at that offset. I messaged the seller and got them to post these!!! 17x9.5 -10 for all 4 corners.
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Nice find, keep us posted!
Well, I've got everybody 17x9.5 -10 offset on ebay. Wheelbay said that they listed the item for me, went to look, there it was. All 4 wheels, 17x9.5 -10, I don't think it will, but even if this requires a spacer it will be very minimal at 10mm which shouldn't cause any real major issues.
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Okay so everybody is kinda on edge about this being possible, there is an Ebay auction selling 17x8.5 +10 fronts and 17x9.5 -10 on the rears. I messaged them asking about the wheels and if they could maybe do a package deal of -10 for all 4 of them, but I wasn't aware that this size existed, so maybe it isn't a good plan. I asked how much the price difference would be if possible. a 10mm spacer to basically match the RB-R group buy really wouldn't be much of a problem if there are clearance issues in the front. I will post up when I hear back, I can't afford the wheels because I need my engine finished, but maybe if we get enough interest towards this company they might provide the wheels for a decent price? That or Kim can be contacted about that sizing and a deal price?
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Those wheels look freaking spectacular voltron, I wish 16's had better tire options, I have decided I must make the new RK-R (RB-W) work. They offer 17x9 -5 which will be hard to fit, but I might be willing to push spacers just to do them.
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Speed Tv's "My Ride Rules" Season 1 Episode 2, at about 21:35 you see an S30, Konig Rewinds, I believe it is a 260z.
http://www.speedtv.com/programs/my-ride-rules/my-ride-rules-video/
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Based only on the pics, it looks like you'd be okay if you replaced the rad support and replaced the drivers side forward of the strut tower.
I could be wrong but I feel like in the second picture the drivers side appears to be pushed downward, could be my brain tricking me due to the bend in the fender.
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I say do a tube front setup of sorts. Or if you can, salvage what you have. Replace the main rails with full square tubing, then replace the front with tubbed out wells, depends on fabrication skills.
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I do not mind
ZCC 280z strut tubes and camber plates with EMUSA s13 coiloversAwesome, so I can clear 4.5" of backspacing with Megans, wasn't sure if I was going to be able to clear that or not so I didn't want to find wheels and make plans. =D How much wheel to strut/spring clearance is there? (Sorry for all the questions! I just like the setup!)
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Test fit of my Christmas presents. Diamond Racing Wheels 15x10 with a 4.5 Backspace and ZG flares.
Would you mind sharing some information on the suspension modifications? Or a link to said discussion?
Thank you. =D
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As a member of the zip tied allstars, I would suggest zip ties and a hole punch. However, seeing how some people have a nice shop to work with I advise the responsible intelligent thing and do the heat gun!
Did you even read past the first three posts?
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So, what year did you order exactly?
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That shows that you didn't look at the build thread linked. =D He has Rota's now. I believe the XXR's are 16x8 though, just for reference. A 245/50/16 won't fit without either a very good roll or flares though.
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Well, I just wanted to post this up, my brother got me an awesome gift for Christmas. While it isn't a super expensive item or anything and it can be had off Ebay, It is still super awesome and I really love it.
He purchased me a vintage original 240z Magazine Advertisement and framed it for me! I think it is really sweet and will look great on my wall, I love it!
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It's a Xenon 280z air dam and what looks to be the MSA "Classic" Spoiler. I sold a 280z airdam like the one you have for I think $100 plus shipping, but that was a while back and I really don't remember, as for the spoiler, I have no idea. Post it for $150 plus shipping and see what you get? Issue with large items is shipping cost for potential buyers.
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He is also a national speed customer, it is a road racing car with a built 383... It revs out and sounds amazing. Well built car.
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Sure! This is just a simple bolt on option.
I checked with the contract manufacturer; looks like the email I'd sent to place the order may have accidentally disappeared. They'll get them to us as soon as they can now. (That's why we don't usually post so much about exactly when we're going to have a product ready; never know when there may be a few unexpected delays.)
I'm sure at least some of us understand the deal! I'll be keeping my eye out for whenever they come up. I'm in no rush.
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BRE sells them on their website for $200, also, you can buy any 190mm or 200mm touring car I believe and HPI racing sells bodies, Painted and clear for you to paint I believe. Been in the R/C scene for a while, you can get some extreme stuff.
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As for the "I just just put a plug in your PCV and a breather on the crank case. Problem solved."
I would say except for the oil mist mess you create, as well as not really evacuating the crankcase of moisture on short trips, etc etc etc...
Retention of some sort of POSITIVE crankcase ventilation is beneficial from many standpoints. The days of the Road Draft Tube are long gone!
Unless you like oil haze blowing around your engine bay that is...
I can understand this, How about running a catch can to prevent the oil from misting around in the engine bay?
I just don't feel like spitting an oily mess like that into your intake system is a very good thing either. I don't see it being positive for the performance of an engine, spraying nasty engine oil and gunk mix into your cylinders combustion chambers.
Also wouldn't this weaken the air/fuel mix and make it less pure, resulting in less of a burn.
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Groovy, even better.
You do know that you'll have unmetered air (bypassing the AFM) in the intake manifold now, through the PCV valve and hose, with that breather on the rocker cover? Through the breather, down through the oil drain holes and through the PCV port in to the manifold. Should create a leaner mixture, idle quality would be the first thing noticed. Maybe you've blocked the PCV port, or it was already blocked, or "tuned" your AFM to offset it?
Nothing wrong with modifying, but the EFI system and PCV system were designed for a sealed crankcase.
wait, you are saying that the breather on the valve cover, makes a vacuum leak through the PCV valve on the intake manifold? I have never heard this. My PCV is blocked off though, running stock EFI. I just just put a plug in your PCV and a breather on the crank case. Problem solved.
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Here is another small update on the build.
I organized a scrap and a keep section a little bit more. Also confirmed that the transmission I got is for sure a 5 speed. I purchased an engine stand and got everything all put together and the short block is up on the stand now as well.
I did a few small things with the short block on the stand, I took off the old timing guides and tensioner then cleaned up some of the gunk off the front of the block, not finished, just a little clean up job for now. I also removed the left hand engine mount and the lower alternator bracket from the block. I am going to be painting all of these parts black. I began to clean up the block some so I can get it prepped and painted up.
Although I purchased the engine already rebuild I am still going to go through and make sure every bolt it torqued to spec per FSM to make sure I don't get the engine together then have catastrophic failure.
My next purchase is likely going to be a metric tap set to go through and clean/repair all of the threads. Hopefully I will sell a few more of my extra parts soon so I can purchase the timing kit and head studs for the engine.
Current plans are still to pull apart the head and give it a good cleaning, my friend wants to polish it, but I feel like that would clash with my plans for how I want to paint it so we will see if that ends up happening or not. I am going to put upgrade Viton valve seals from a german ford 2.9L v6 as long as I do pull the head apart. Besides that most of this is going to be just cleaning up the engine, acquiring the parts to finish it, and putting it together. I also have future plans for a different fuel cell, I feel like I did a very half assed job with what I have now and the system I plan to run down the road is a major upgrade.
On to the pictures:
All of the crap I have, box closest to the garage door is the scrap, you can also see my N47/N42 combo in the back that blew the head up. (Tail tank is from my fathers sprint car)
This is simple just the short block as it sits on the engine stand right now.
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I gave you my offer on the manifold and ECU or the manifold, ECU, and J-pipe if you decide you want any of it let me know.
What the..? Still a sweeeet price if you campare to the real deal...
ZCC 280z strut tubes and camber plates with EMUSA s13 coilovers
Having a Little Fun Before Putting Up for the Winter
in Non Tech Board
Posted
I do burnouts to disguise myself, you guys have all got it wrong. If you do a smokey enough burnout the cops can no longer see you. Therefore you have escaped. =P Try some sealed pavement, it makes extra smoke and you can hold a good solid burnout in 2nd gear no problem. =D