ModernS30

I'll take 1 XL Purple Hoodie 46112

Hey everybody. I didn't see a post so I figured I would post this up. This was shared on Because Race Car's facebook feed.

You should 100% defiantly remove the interior tar. Dry ice works well, or being that it is getting cold outside I would say go outside on a very cold day. Being in Florida might make this difficult, yes? If its rusted through enough to have a small hole there, there is more rust across the floor. A patch would be fine, but make sure you take the surrounding metal down to bare and be positive that there isn't any more rust, then prep the metal correctly to be sure there isn't any other rust left before primer and paint.

If you don't go glass I'm in Indiana and wouldn't mind a set of glass fenders. Then again I'm also wanting to build an AR15, so maybe I need to decided which I care about more. My metal fenders aren't rusty and look fine.... I'd go glass.

I've got a Hero 3 Silver Edition, its awesome!

Wow, that is wide, VERY interested in seeing where this is going. Nice work so far.

I got an email from Kim just a few weeks ago.

8.5" +10 will not fit a car with stock suspension, I highly doubt them to fit a car with 2.5" spring coil overs without spacers, but I could be wrong. I've got probably 1/4" - 1/2" clearance between the wheel and strut on factory 240z suspension with 8" wheel +0. 280z springs are larger if I am remembering correctly.

In my opinion there's almost two inches of room to move the exhaust up. You've just got a poorly made exhaust. It isn't hung very well.

ZCCJDM makes reproduction IMSA 3-piece spoilers.

I see, mine would do it if it was idling cold start. I don't have any cold start equipment.

I'm running 3" exhaust and I just have it tucked as close to the differential as Six_Shooter stated above. In his second to last picture if you view the differential there, a little knuckle or tab or whatever you want to call it extends off the diff. Grind it off. It's not needed. Let's to tuck it up just a tad bit more and you don't have an annoying banging noise if your exhaust moves a little bit. Also if your exhaust rubs it too long there will be a hole there. Notice the marks from it in Six_Shooter's pictures. Another thing that allowed me to tuck my exhaust up really high was the fact that I've got an RT diff mount and I took the factory diff mount that holds the control arms up, and section the middle out and boxed in the ends that hold the control arm up, that way they are still strong and do their job, but the diff mount is out of the way. Some will say I've sacrificed chassis strength. In my opinion the RT mount is adding any support I may have removed from the chassis right above, most likely more than I removed seeing as how its made of thicker steel. As far as clearance this gave me, when it comes down to it it only gave me more clearance in the transmission tunnel because I've got the exhaust higher in there. Really though that is where it was needed because that is where speed bumps and other things are most likely to hit the exhaust. Seeing as how the wheels are right in line with the spot that you're having troubles with, it will be going up as the wheels do on speed bumps. Beyond that I would agree in saying either oval or square/flat tubing would be the only other way to get around that, short of cutting holes in the floor and running the exhaust inside the car and over that, which just sounds insane unless you're building a race car.

You've got those brake conversion brackets on backwards.

I'm pretty sure when most people shave valve covers they grind the raised sections off.

I had bad injector lines once. One ruptured. My entire car went up in flames. Luckily I got it out and it didn't burn my house down. (was in garage) Don't play with fuel lines, just replace them right away. Also, that oil is sludgged up and nasty. Replace it asap.

Hopefully I've got my z at Branson this year but my engine isn't even in the car yet! eek! See you there!

Three words - Mandrel Bend Solutions. They've got ebay, they've got a website, they sell builders kits, they sell stainless, they sell aluminized, they sell individual bends, and much much more. I bought the 3" aluminized kit and did my L6 exhaust myself with a MIG and it was fairly easy with their kit. It's no race exhaust, but the bends are pretty good quality and it was very affordable. I've got under $200 in my exhaust with the $50 muffler. (Thrush Welded 3" In 3" out)

I know nothing about sentra's but are you sure it isn't Throttle body injected? As in a TB with a single injector that looks like a carb? Maybe that isn't an ECU but a spark control box? Check for spark, if you've got that, check for fuel.

Hmmm..... http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/four-barrel-4150-throttle-body-1215-cfm-p-512.html =D

I've got a full ECU, EFI harness, and AFM from a 77 280z. The injector clips are a little cracked but it worked fine on my car. It has been pulled apart and only has the needed bits left. All the emissions stuff has been removed. If you are interested I will get some pictures tonight. Came off my 240z but I'm going mega-squirt and turbo.

Information on place of purchase?

may I ask why is your hood welded to your fender?

I made this tonight. Got about $5 in it. Nothing special not even sure if it will hold up, but hey it was fun to make.

I rewired my entire alternator system. You should have a little white wire that bolts down to the positive terminal on the starter, this connects to the alternator, which means that it connects to the battery. Do the Maxi-Fuse upgrade that is on Atlantic Z Car, one of the best mods I've ever done, besides just the cleaning up my bay it is nice to not have those sketchy fusible links anymore and I feel like I've got a more solid connection.

psh, 1.4L MPG FTW.