rajien2
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Posts posted by rajien2
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Yeah buddy proper posting and all aside not sure what your expecting here? We know nothing about your car.... Also from your other post sounds like you don't know much as well. Is it fuel injected or carbed? If your injected you have a temp sensor that makes the car run rich when its cold, if this stopped working you car might be full rich all the time. Again I have never had this problem this was just a quick search, so give us alot more to work with here or search... Pictures are also worth a ton!
Thanks
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You do realize that's a 2+2 so it's a little different from the Rotsun
Also if you go 350 Chevy it's going to be heavier so you way want to upgrade brakes and suspension. You might look at aluminum heads before you go turbo. Some AFR's would give you added HP and get you back to stock weight.
Yeah thats okay with me more room for a cage and more trunk space.
Oh totally I have been going through my manual nightly, I have a rebuilt steering rack for a forester with celica tie rods coming this week. I should be ordering the truck brake pistons some time next week. I hope to be ordering a crate engine from summit here in the next few months, I will just pick up a T5 from a junk yard and buy a rebuild kit. I am still working out what im doing on suspension, I might just get some coil overs and an aluminum mustache bar. Depending on how much roll there is will determine the roll cage I will be using.
The trouble with the T5 is its rather paltry torque capacity. This has been discussed at some length in the "drivetrain" subforum. Even JTR admits the questionable torque capacity of the T5. However, I've not heard testaments of the T5 breaking - at least not on this Forum.
There are aftermarket suppliers who rework the T5 for much higher strength; see for example http://www.gforcetransmissions.com/tran_gt-5.asp . It might be a reasonable strategy to do a normal T5 swap, see if it breaks, and if so, do the upgrade; otherwise leave it alone.
Yet another issue is the bellhousing. I ended up with the very heavy but very strong Lakewood unit. It's strictly aftermarket (see Jegs or Summit), but should bolt to the T5.
Oh very useful thank you, I will just rebuild on from a junk yard and if I blow it up then I have a solution
thank you sir.As always thanks for all your help guys.
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If the red charge light is on or the voltage gauge isn't working at all, then the battery won't charge. Just FYI
Ohhh really? Thats good to know, the red light only comes on in reverse... I have some really weird wiring going on to make this car legal to drive for a while, the stop light are currently routed through the emergency flashers with a solid wire between the flasher deal to make it solid. I'm going to deal with really digging into the wiring when I do the V8 swap, I am just going to route everything to a central dash with 20 switches on it. I'm going to run out with a voltmeter while the car is running so see if its charging off the alternator, I might just be running power to a bad place on the gauge causing it to not work. I will keep you posted.
Yep looks good I am charging at idle without any lights on, headlight are pulling -.01 volts every 5 seconds from the battery. Just checked my links, looks like im pushing 13.66 volts to the harness... I think I might have one to many hot wires linked up but overall the car runs great. I currently have an issue with my stop fuse getting to about 120 degrees, its only with the head lights on; with the brake pedal depressed and hazards flashing (Routed through the blinker thing) same temp. I have a feeling I have a side marker light touching the body somewhere, so I have headlights if I really really need them but i run the risk of melting something. Over all im just happy right now I can drive it around, I also just got the mirrors install... I think they are going to take some time to get use too but I think they look really cool!
Thanks again everyone for the help.
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Engine temp works too woot woot. Think I might have broke the voltage gauge out the battery is just really low right now, it red....
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And I owe a special thanks to everyone!
Rear tail lights work when headlights are on if I run power from a spare hot wire directly to the two wires. No change when you step on the break though but I think that should be an easy fix later. I also have blinkers, rpm gauge, and oil pressure. Not sure about temp gauge yet but PROGRESS!!!! Thanks all!
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Titles get screwed up or you have an ownership problem. But at least you know what you're working with. Progress...
Could be that someone wired in an extra set of lights and didn't fuse the circuit properly, then shorted it. When a short happens the whole length of wire will get hot but the part that doesn't dissipate heat the fastest will melt and/or burn. Then if it melts its way to another ground source there's a second short.
The Hazard switch is in the circuit so that it can blink all of the lights when you press the button. There's no separate circuit, it's all one system. Hazard switches can cause a lot of problems.
Yeah hey if I have plates its all good....
Yeah I think thats the issue right now with the blinkers. I have pulled the whole thing apart really its a single hot wire in the middle with 2 contacts on each side, the issue I see is when one side is activated I only get like 1.2 volts. Ive cleaned both end but still no good. Im going to pick up a switch and create my own, what a funny design for a switch. I grabbed a hot wire and touch each side, with the blinker engaged it lights up the back but not flash. I have a feeling this is due to the battery only having 6.5 volts right now, I have a feeling the blinker relay thing acts as a bucket and dumps power after it reaches a point correct? Anyways my wife is picking up a charger right now so I will know soon enough thanks guys
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Sooo looking at the correct diagram... I think the blinkers get power from the hazard switch! soo I pulled mine and what do you know it looks burned on the car connector. However if you look at the switch end of the connector i see not burn marks. Thus makes me think someone stuck something in this connector....
Pulled the tape away looks like the wire was spliced into with a yellow wire remaining. however it burned really bad! I have also found yellow wire residue next to the main connector block by the fuse box.. WTF was this last guy doing?
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What do the harness connections look like? That's the part that normally stays with the car. Your pictures are of the removable stuff.
And the door pillar tag will tell you what year car you're working with. What's it say?
Sorry didn't see your edit.. ROFL so my title says 78, my vin says 76 my door says 11/75... WTF
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Sweet! I think its the switch... If i take the 3 pin connector and stick a pin in the first 2 slots and take a hot 12 volt wire and connect them I get a right turn signal! Progress!!! So i think it comes down to power is not being shared to all of combo switch sooo not sure where im going from here because all the wires are in place and soldered but progress!
thanks to all everyone for the help thus far. -
Huh I guess so! this looks right! http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/wiringdiagrams/76_280z_wiring.gif
Kinda sad not very colorful or easy to read..
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Here you go.
This is for the high beam switch
Turn signal wire
This goes to the wipers and headlight turn on
Does this look like a 280z? It has no badges anywhere.
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Yikes just pulled the vin up... I guess this is a 76 not a 78? Guess my title is wrong?
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Yikes I have been tracing wire and such and just now realized my combo switch is the same in the diagram..... I don't have a 6 pin connector it's an old 3 pin connector, I need to remove the dash again and trace out where the blinker relay is really going. Could this not be a 1978 280z and something else? Or did they have multiple type of connectors in the same car??
Mine looks like
I think it should look like:
Man was the PO swapping things around?? Should I just trace all my own wires and buy like 40 switches and create my own at this point??
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Hey thanks SeattleJeseter, Im heading to the store now to pick up pushpins and multiple alligator clips thanks for all your help and support.
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I am curious about the combo switch if that is broken or removed would it kill all the lights and gauges? I am currently working in the wiring diagram to try and manually trigger the turn signal, I am confused on what that line means between wires does that mean cross them all to make it work??
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Oh perfect that makes sense thanks 88
AHHH Found it! Power come in from the battery to the dam combination switch! I am going to start there, I have a feeling the issues might be there... It has no cover on it and was left in a barn for 7 years.
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Alright im sorry.... This is going to be a really dumb question.. I understand the principle of checking for continuity in a component like a bulb or fuse by touching each exposed end. Do I need get a multimeter with like a 10 foot cable so I can leave one end in the cab plugged into c-4 and run the other end to the tail socket? Or am I going about this all in the wrong way, again sorry for a basic question. Any tips on finding the issue are completely welcome, as demonstrated I am willing to take the whole car apart
Thanks
Guys
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Hmmm the harness behind the dash looks just fine, cut the tape and check the wires all the way to the gages. Back to square one, I still think I might have somthing to do with the green/white wire. I need to figure out where is connects to the battery and test it there. Brb after I single handedly put the heavy awkward dash back into place.
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Wow green white is the key... That attaches everything my side markers, horn, tail lights... Good god..
Looks like green and white should be hot. I am still trying to find where is becomes hot at, I have a feeling it might have melted all the way through the wire somewhere...
Cut up as far as I could on the steering column wires, the looks good no burns, I need to remove the dash to get to the rest. Thats my next step.
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Alright I think that black plug is C-6 and the Green with a white strip is a common wire shared with all my gauges.... This is per the 77 color diagram the car is a 78 so I dont think much changed right?
Also on c-6 the yellow should be to my fuel gauge..
Hmm I wonder if all my gauges are fired
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What I am currently dealing with, I am tracing the wires on the diagram to figure out what melted... I will post my findings here.
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Oh very cool thanks that would have been a big pain! Ahhh alright so what im gathering... Just go buy a complete V8 Camaro and just sell the shell later.
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Hey guys thanks for all the information, I might come off as wanting to make the car just like the rotsun however I really just like the turbo aspect. I have the JTR manual on its way now, I hope to have it by friday and start diving into some details. Now the part about the manual transmission not being very well explained makes me a little nervous... However I have done some reading that using a T5 from a mustang is a good way to go, can anyone confirm this?
Thanks
Cody
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Oh fun.... Perfect thank you sir, I will dive into it after work. Thanks for your help
thank you sir.
280z 2+2 engine swap rb20det
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Posted
haha.... brace your about to be blasted for not searching...... Second back away slowly from the idea of doing an engine swap without any car mechanics experience. Do you know anything about fuel injection systems or ECU controls? The RB engines are extremely digital controlled worked of art, this would not just be a drop in and plug and play. I sure know at 17 I did not have $10,000+ laying around... Also keep in mind your car will not be operational for weeks if you know what your doing and have the money, month if not years in your case. Sooo.. With that said why are you swapping this engine, what is the current state of the car, are you prepared to pay a pro shop to build this for you? Will your parents let you destroy their garage for months with a non operational car? For more details on the RB swap look at this post.
http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/13076-so-you-wanna-swap-an-rb-eng-here-ya-go/
Now I have not seen a step by step guide for any engine swap for the RB engines, if you find one props to you.
Thanks.