didier
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Posts posted by didier
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Bumping up this awesome thread. People who want 300hp NA should read this
Yes, we read this, and there is so much to know, and so much mistakes !
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compare to N42 stock and my P90 ported 40 mm intake and ported exhaust too.
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Good job, man , but you would prep your rockers like the one in the third picture !
lighter at the lash pad for revs ! -
ITS ALL IN MY HEAD MAN, ALL IN MY HEAD
Get a block of aluminum or steel, make the shape of the inspection cover, but add depth to it so it goes into the head by however much. Mill two grooves. Order your idler bearing and sprocket. Make a plate,with a tapped hole so a bolt can thread into it and hold the bearing on. On the other side tap 4 holes for your lock screws, spaced the same amount as your slots.
For the bottom make a cover plate where the tensioner went. Again tapped, bolt on idler. On the backside mill a slight groove or channel from the oil hole that was used for the old tensioner. Make it so that it comes up right behind the bearing, then drill a hole in the cover plate so it squirts the oil into the bearing.
"easy"
Until the bearing breaks off and you destroy a motor.
Take a look at my post #73 I show photos of my build, it's very clear .No need for 600$, just about 100 € ! and it's very solid .
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very funny post here , guys."
I tell you my story : I have made my own Idler gear kameari system "just for the fun, it cost me 100 €uros ! i'm sure it will do nothing with power increase ! only to be able to say : i did it !
I will put an Australian electric water pump " Davis Craig " Just for the fun, it cost me 150 Euros, i'm sure it will do nothing for power,
may be , just expecting a better cooling with mods on my head ( holes above the exhaust ports ) and i'll try reverse flow just to see.
I can come back to original mount.
I hope for the best advance ignition and good power, but i know it's not only with these mods !
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Haha your french you cant help it
Nice setup you have there .. any pictures of the backside of that plate ?No more pictures, but it's the same thing that a Kameari : sliding double gears in an aluminium alloy piece , ball bearings ( not spin rollers ) and oil jet on the lower gears. Hope that helps !
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funny post around technical considerations ! i have many respect for Peter and also for A thomas, so for me , it's a real dilemme ! both have arguments !
i did'nt want to waste my money (
) so i made my own idler gear system ! see photos down here!as far as power is concerned, i don't know;;;;;;;, my engine is stil waiting for my restotation to be finished.
I'm making a davis craig EWP mount with reverse flow, and i made changes in the water distribution in the head ( without knowing Peter made something like this )
I think the power loss was more a temp issue in the head , leading to reduce ignition advance , and not the Kameari system.
A friend here in France, with a Rebello engine has no problem with the K gear. ( just noisy )
congrats to PMC and hs30 , good guys ! don't leave us !
regards
Didier
excuse my english !
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Hahaha! Awesome!
THAT hole is typical on the sixes! Always #5!
why always the 5th ? cooling temp ? ,oil pressure, ?
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If you have your MS3 soldered, you don't need the EDIS system, you can make a COP ingnition system and sequential injection by the way.
and like Lazeum said : don't use brute force !!
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184441_463355450379494_1602632345_n1.jpg537198_463356100379429_1080627629_n1.jpg553318_463355747046131_529638927_n1.jpg
Some new pics off my motor , specs are 89 x89 3.4 12.5 comp 76 works grind LZ cams , for the old school look it will have 50mm carbs and 6 into 1 pipes and drysump ,,,, These pics are just dummy build pics ,
You make a 6/1exhaust and not 6/2/1 ? what is the ID in mm of the header? 48?
Good job, Peter
Didier
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I'm looking into getting one of the obx units the only problem I'm having is I cant find the unit part number #10528. If someone could point me in the direction of who to buy from or where people are getting them I would be much abliged.
on Ebay motors, you get some choice !
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Cad drawings would be AWESOME! Btw, when I mentioned pinning the wheel, I meant that I would drill the holes so that half of it was through the wheel and the other half through the damper. I don't know if that makes sense to ya. I was then gonna thread it and put thread lock on them. Hope all goes well with the welding. You can have my modified damper too if you want it, but it's gonna cost around 30-40 dollars to get there. I just mailed two radioes to Australia and that cost damn near 50.
It's what i made with my fluid damper, , it's a removable solution, even if you can tune the trigger angle in the firmware,you can still change the gap by re drilling .
Welding is a good option , spots don't overheat the damper, but it's not so clean
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Good job, Peter, but i'm wondering what is the upper aluminium tube for ? no connection with each exhaust port, connecting to the head rear side ? No reverse flow i think . so what ?
well done , but sorry i don't like turbos . forgive me !
excuse my language !
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I'm still quite convinced the setup to have is Extrudabody ITBs with Electromotive ignition... You get what you pay for.
(I'm not made of money either, which is why this is on my wish list and not on my car. That said, when I finally move on from my DCOEs, I'm going to be moving UP!)
Extrudabody is a good product, Jenvey , too, but Electromotive ECU has nothing better than Mégasquirt2 or 3 .
If you really want the best without price consideration, go with MOTEC,world leader in racing .
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Been reading a LOT of Megasquirt forums lately.
I have read a lot of posts about problems with off-idle throttle response (tip-in).
It would pain me to bail on DCOEs, just to spend the rest of my life chasing MS issues.
Still researching, but seems it is tricky to dial in the initial throttle tip-in.
Do you mean it's easier to tune DCOE's ? and you get three X 2= 6 problems !
No headache with MS if you start with good basics, you can tune in alphaN or Speed density , or a mix, but tip in issues only occur with wrong AE or x tau tune .
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Hi, Peter
your water system is "Fantastic" ! awesome, super cool and beautiful, much better than my "amateur" build !
do you make a " reverse flow" system or classic ?
http://forums.hybridz.org/uploads/monthly_06_2012/post-5139-098130700%201340667524.jpg
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Yes, you should go to fluid damper, it's a safe solution for high revs, but even if your actual damper slipped, your timing with the crank gear is still in place, with 56° your engine would knock or stop !
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but there is *Always* something wrong with the dang carbs.... at least for me.
Thankfully I have reached the pinnacle of Weber tuning: Decided they are good enough and leave them alone.
Tj
You're right, duragg, go to GSXR and Mégasquirt, it's no headache at all !
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Thanks for your knowledge, i'll keep it in my mind when the engine will start,
Didier
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Yes, i shall make tests with reverse and classic flow ,it is very easy to fix , and i know the EP will not produce 3 bars at maximum power, but there is advantage to get a constant flow without cavitation, and you can keep the pump running after shuting off the engine, it is a good thing for a progressive cooling down . ( right ?
Photos showing the water distribution holes in the head,above each exhaust port, and the big tube coming from the pump in the reverse system, or collecting in the normal flow direction .( who knows ?)
regards
Didier
260 Z 2+2 modified (just a little )
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Thanks for fast reply !
Awesome build !
Mine is on the way...
https://plus.google.com/photos/101915172490642132463/albums/5514294332747443665
Where did you get your fuel tank ? and how to bring it to France ? (shipping cost ?)
salut, diz9 , moi c'est nissag250 ...
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Hmmm. The patent there lays out some real good info.
Been reading up a lil bit on the head cooling threads, i think didier has this in the works for his setup? I could see that translating well into an l-series, however, it seems to make more sense in my mind to vent the head on the manifold side, and feed into the opposing side.
No, there is no place to feed water on this side.
But what diameter orifice would offer the best outlet for vapor, and not be a shunt for the coolant? Are there suitable areas on the opposite side to tap into
with reverse flow, just a little diameter is enough
Are those thermostats in that picture, pmc? Looks like they're staggered to fit the core plug holes?
With an electric water pump, i'll drive with megasquirt and pulse width, no need for a thermostat .
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Well, this engine build thread has been going on a long time, so it is fitting that we take a short ""vacation" to France before getting back to work. Thanks for the info.
Well, if you come for vacation in France, you"ll can see others 3.0l engines build !
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Im testing it both ways Tony at the moment the water is going in the block , but next week i will be reverse flowing the water so in the head and out the block, i think it will work even better that way . I will be making it a one peace ally thing when it all works.
I'm building a reverse flow system too, i drilled above each exhaust port, and with a Davis Craig pump, it's easy to control the flow.Two restricted hoses in the upper pockets of the head will evacuate the gazeous bubbles to the expanding tank.
i answered to your message, Peter
Didier
Do you know this patent ? http://www.google.no/patents/US5255636
Nice setup you have there .. any pictures of the backside of that plate ?
DOHC L6, Was somebody looking for the Goerz-Paeco DOHC L6 Head ?
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
Not sold at 14500 US $, the price is now 13250, it,s not the end .....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-L6-DOHC-Cylinder-Head-240Z-260Z-280Z-L24-L26-L28-Fairlady-Z-Nissan/261359459815?_trksid=p2047675.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222002%26algo%3DSIC.FIT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D11%26meid%3D3583444800621960414%26pid%3D100011%26prg%3D1005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D5%26sd%3D261351937213%26#ht_1759wt_880