didier
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Posts posted by didier
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Hi, amazing engine, congratulations for your work
just a question : did you put the Z-196 isky cam in your head ?
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very usefull, thanks
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thank you for your experience, good to know !!
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E85.
ah ah !
heating values : Kilojoules/ kg : gasoline : 43,,,,,E 85 : 29 !!
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The main problem in the L engine head design is the internal casting, with a horizontal web leading to a poor vertical coolant flow toward the block,
I get N42, N47 and P90 on the bench, and i have made water flow tests, it's a real s....t
I think hot spots in the 5 or 6 th are a legend, hot spots everywhere in these castings
"reverse flow "
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Hi, Mathieu
I think you MUST disasemble your engine, Mr Ruschman 's thoughts are the right way, xxxx$ spent in your head , i should want to be sure it will work.
The good process is start FROM ZERO , clean every parts, and rebuild .
in French : te fais pas chier , Mathieu, démontes tout, nettoies, et remontes !!
I can help you if you want ! -
Not a good idea, the restrictor is press fit, if you make it too loose, it will drop down , and i think it's not avalaible even in stock size.
" pourquoi faire simple , quand on peut faire compliqué"
" why make things easy, when you can make complications "
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It might be a stupid question but when I was ready to drill the restrictor I came accross the question about "how to remove the chips afterwards from the blocck??  Â
I mean, it seems the bolck inside is not a strtaight pipe where you can blow air thru it with only one way to go out. Chips can get stuck in remaining oil, they can also go thru the tensioner oil path way for instance.
So I'm questionning if I should do it or not?  Â
 I might do more damage than anything else...What's your opinion?
The best would be to work with your block on the bench, but i know it's still in the car,
Your pump is removed,So you should blow air pressure in the oiling funnel going to the filter ,while you drill, the chips jumping out in your face !!!
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Ah ! ah! Tony, I have some problems to understand subtleties and humoristics sentences.
For now, i'm reading Frank Honsowetz's book, and it's good information ,
Regards, best wishes from France,
I return to the restoration of my 260 Z 2+2,
bye bye
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I refer to it as "Mortensen-proofing" a post.
Seems I have to do that more and more these days. Or simply keep it to myself. I'm fine with that, I don't need to argue about it.
<Edit> Not to imply in any way any links between any section of a prior post, or paragrapghs within a previous post, sentences within a post, or even trains of thought within a post and this post whatoever, your mileage may vary depending on driving conditions and many other factors including but not limited to day of the week, lunar cycle, tides, astrological alignment, phase rotational EMF contamination, ELF transmission interference, amalgam fillings, or consequential similarities to actual persons living or dead.<Edit>
Sorry, absolutely unintelligible for a foreigner ( french ) trying to be at your level . are you joking, are you angry ?
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OK guys, i think not drilling the upper hole is a "pressure behind the tensionner" question .
the problem is closed with the Kameari system
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Thanks didier for the proposal!!!  Â
But if I increase oil restrictor size, should I still use a regular oil pump?
there are TWO restrictors holes,one above the chaintensioner location, and one in the midle of the block.
You can drill two 3mm holes, If you get a good stock pump, the flow would be correct, pressure can be modified with shims under the spring
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Hi, Mathieu
looking at your pics, i think your pump is absolutely dead .
If you want one, i'll give you mine, in good shape, i'm in a project of dry sump pump system .
regards
Didier
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OK and what about copper gaskets ? do you use them with succes?
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Most likely next to cylinder 5 & 6
On the passenger side, you have the heater hose support for instance on the block or on knock sensor location (I have a P79 ). It requires however a big bolt (M14?) so a fairly large piece of pipe (to drill Ø14 hole) might have to be used for this one.
People also clamp it on support to lift the engine, it seems to work also...
Will you please take a photo of your face with the headset ?
I WANNA LAUGH !!!
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I've been using that head gasket setup for about 10 years now. It's pretty much indestructible, and also pretty expensive. It does require machining the block, so once you start using this gasket, there is no going back. Just pray that Nissan Motorsports doesn't discontinue it - it's looked like they were going to several times, but they still stock it - you'll probably have the best luck contacting them directly.
Here are a few pics:
Thank you so much for the photos, i understand how it works
how much is the deepth of the grooves for O rings ? what metal ? stainless steel or inconel ?
I think there's a difference with HKS metal gasket ( conventional shape ) and this one Nismo with separated parts .
Sometimes ago , i have seen Formula 1 V10 Peugeot/Prost head opened, and there was Orings with grooves for the bores, and grooves all around the head for soft gasket ( water and oil ).it was impressive quality of work
I think the Nismo is expensive but i will try to contact theme
excuse my bad english
regards
Didier
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who knows something about nissan motorsport race parts : O ring headgasket, needing block machining ?
any picture ?
I will overbore my L28 to 90 mm and don't find the 91 mm HKS headgasket 2 or 1 mm, no longer produced ?
how could i get one for France ?
Didier
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First I'm glad this thread is becoming alive again.
Shouldn't a port/polish/unshroud head requires more fuel since it might flow better?
I'll think about it this week and get some more actions done next weekend
well, we are waiting for your results, beware of the iceland's dust ! ah ah !
Didier, megasquirter fan !
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salut
Mathieu
Je ne comprends pas ce creux de pauvreté à 2500 t/mn.
Et toujours cette richesse entre 4500 et 5500,je pense que c'est un accord qui se situe là , un résonance, et qui remplit mieux, donc plus d'air ?
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I understand your frustration. I'm still new to the game, I guess I'm still going to look for improvement.
I've logged a "raced" prep engine and 2x 45DCOE (Alpine A110 1600s) around Xmas, the AFR was flat all over the power band. I have hope thou I can achieve the same results!
Anyway, rich spot or not, it does not avoid me to move forward. I may have to leave with it, I'm fine with that; without the wideband, it is hardly noticeable
)Don't give up, Mathieu, you are on the right way !
 I might do more damage than anything else...
convert a N/A 1981 280ZX to megasquirt
in MegaSquirt
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Where did you see that ? powerdyn need a DIY inductive coil around one HT spark plug wire, and records the data with a wave file or other one
I think nothing is better than a trigger wheel on the crank shaft for accuracy, with a VR or Hall effect sensor
A perfect square wave signal with no noise ,megasquirt will read rpm without any problem, much better that an old inertial dyno. If you want tune your engine, you'll have to find a steady state dyno. (Not so much in France )