boostfed
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Posts posted by boostfed
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it might be easier to just piece one together, like you, i wont be building a race car. just a nice reliable cruiser
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Beautiful work!!! Mind posting the part numbers you used? I've been looking for something like this. Did you remove your spare tire well completely?
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Hello all,
in need of a front drive accessory kit, anyone have any recommendations? most of the kits i've seen are fairly pricey. I bought an lq9 longblock that didn't include any front drive accessories, looking for something that works but wont break the bank. These cars tend to suck up some major cash, especially with a swap, haha.
Thanks in advance!
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planning on running it with the r200 open diff? curious to see how it'll track without lsd. what power levels are you at?
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worried about traction at all with a 225 series tire? youre definitely putting in some work!
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very nice build , looking forward to seeing more progress. what are the specs on the wheels/tires? Post some vids of the exhaust when you fire it up, i too have been eye balling the cx kit.
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doesnt seem like JPN_garage has logged onto these forums for awhile, where did everyone purchase their kits?
I'll be going with a v8 swap soon, any suggestions on spring rates? For me, comfort is most important. The car will se some track days but for the most part it'll be street driven. I'll likely get the coilovers in before the swap, so drive impressions to come soon when i purchase.
OP: did you end up buying these springs?
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im thinking about pulling the trigger on these too, any pics? I'm in the same boat as zviking, likely going with 17's on my car, sounds like the standard kit should be low enough to get rid of the wheel gap and give it a good stance. For my purposes the extreme low might cause clearance issues.
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Great build!
out of curiosity , what made you go with the CX racing kit compared to other available kits? Planning my build out and getting that much needed motivation from your build thread
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AAAANNND she starts and runs great! replaced the ripped afm-TB boot with a universal silicone hose , did a quick ignition tune up (plugs, wires, cap / rotor). starts and runs like a dream, drove it for about 15 mins around the neighborhood and we're looking pretty good, thanks for the help newzed! hopefully others will be able to find this thread useful in the future. the water temp switch doesnt seem to have any affect on the car besides cold idle, though its not bad. idle on a warm engine is about 700-800 rpms.
Thanks again everyone! this will do for now until its ready to get swapped out
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Man, you should have kept the Camaro.
I should've, still love the car but I got annoyed with the "classic car tax" that those cars get tacked onto them. Parts are pretty ridiculous , just because its a 69 camaro. Plus id be just as happy with a Z car and would be able to build it for a lot less. Both good looking cars, both different beasts
@NewZed : Thanks, I should be able to get around to a tune up of the car within the next week or so, hopefully the afm-tb boot shows up at the same time. The fuel pump relay works as it should, 1 click for on and 1 click for start, so I know the relays are getting energized properly.
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measurements at the afm connector is still consistent , not much variation besides between pin8/9 :
AFM resistance 1 ( pins 6/8) , efi bible suggests 180ohms : 234ohms
AFM resistance 2 ( pins 7/8) , efi bible suggests small resistance: 236ohms
AFM resistance 3 ( pins 8/9) , efi bible suggests ~100ohms: 130ohms
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I'll test it at the afm, always hated those things so they were the first to go
I owe you a beer newzed, next time im in the PNW I'll be sure to let you know. AFM boot is still on the way , i'll try to fix the one that was on there before but its in pretty bad shape, tattered is putting it lightly. -
Here are my readings at the ECU harness:
AFM resistance 1 ( pins 6/8) , efi bible suggests 180ohms : 234ohms
AFM resistance 2 ( pins 7/8) , efi bible suggests small resistance: 212ohms
AFM resistance 3 ( pins 8/9) , efi bible suggests ~100ohms: 250ohms
I cleaned the carbon track and connector pins on the AFM before taking these readings, it was pretty dirty but the numbers are still fairly high. I did a small experiment while I was out there, I'll only hear the pump kick on while the key is in the start position, once it returns to the on position the pump will cut out the car will normally die. I depressed the flap in the AFM to keep the fuel pump on and started the car, it'll be able to hold an idle but it'll die once i hit the gas pedal (theres no afm -> TB boot installed on it yet). Methinks its the AFM causing issues
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hopefully someone can chime in, I'd hate to pull the trigger on a new AFM and have it not be the problem. Has anyone ever seen higher resistance numbers while testing at the harness? Or seen similar symptoms?
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Hey newzed,
Thanks for the response!
Sorry I should've specified, its the water temperature SWITCH, the one on the side of the coolant housing pointing towards the drivers side of the vehicle, searching online (and on msa) has shown that the part is discontinued, i'll double check with my dealers (P/N 22120-N4202).
The AFM p/n : a31-060 001 for the L28. I got the pump to run by switching the key to the on position and pressing the AFM flap, the fuel pump is very loud and pretty hard to miss, during cranking its not turning on, it'll just come on and off intermittently. I've read that if the car runs better with the AFM unplugged, then the afm is the issue. I tried this test and the car started even worse.
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Hello Everyone,
after selling my 69 camaro, I've purchased my first Z car, a 1975 280z. I'm the second owner of the car with supposedly 73k on the clock. The car is in pretty good condition and a perfect platform for a beautiful cruiser Z. The car has a few issues that I'm hoping experienced owners can help with, I've done some basic checks on the car but the issue still persists.
When I first picked up the car, the owner took me on a "test drive". The car will start but will stall out immediately, if the throttle is applied at the right time, the rpm's will climb "until the car warms up" and the car should be fine, not the case. The fuel pump was replaced with an off brand and is very very loud, the pump is ziptied to the frame and no insulation was used, Ive purchased a basic unit and will replace it soon, though i'm not completely convinced .
Also on 75-76 280z's, theres a water temperature on the side of the coolant housing that is busted, from my research, the car can run reliably without this sensor, though a little more rich during cold starts, but would still allow the car to run and drive. This sensor is discontinued and i've yet to be able to source one , still up in the air about replacing it.
Doing some testing according to the EFI bible, most readings through the ECU harness have returned normal, though the AFM tests are reading fairly high. EFI bible called for 100-180 ohms for different AFM readings, mine measured well over 200 on all of the measurements, even close to 300ohms during some test. I know the AFM turns on the fuel pump when the car is off (pushing the AFM flap while key in the on position), though during the test drive I'll be able to hear the fuel pump cut on and off, most of the time I wont be able to hear the pump while trying to start the car now. Fuel/Power relay works as expected as well, clicks on at the right times.
Up until now, while trying to start the car it'll have ignition, stumble and die. The fuel pump is fairly intermittent though I believe the issue lies within the fuel pump signal, not the pump itself. Usually when I hit the gas the car will die. The AFM to Throttle body elbow is also ripped, I'll likely have to replace this, not cheap
My goal is to get the car running reliably around town, its still in very good shape , hope you all can help!Excuse the lengthy post but I'm hoping to get this beauty back on the road!
Wanted 1976 280Z Water/Oil Gauge and Fuel/Amp Gauge
in Parts Wanted
Posted
i have a set from a 75 280z , let me know if you'd like them!