Mobious5

my alt went out a couple weeks ago, i was coming home from college and my batt kept dyeing, every-time i was at a stop the car would bog down simply because my foot was on the break and the light were draining the battery. finally the car turned off and i ended up pushing it into a parking spot. ( what i didnt tell you was it was raining and dark out) next thing you no some guy in a jeep backing out nails my in the passenger side fender and jeep. and all this happened the day b4 my 20th birthday lol. so the moral of this story is, alternators are ***.

Sorry your right i don't have CV's i have U joints. And another reason i want to swap it out is because i'm starting to feel it slip, that and the u joints in the propeller shaft are old. All this combined calls for some replacement. Eventually i want to do some serious upgrades to the engine but for now, college lol.

Hey guys, I have an 82 NA automatic so that means i have the R180 diff., Im not sure weather its long or short nose. Basically i want to swap it out for an R200 with the same 3.54 gears. I want to know if my current CV axles and diff mounts will bolt up to another diff (R200)? Thanks A lot!!

Hey guys, i was reading and I'm kinda in the same boat. I have an 82 NA automatic so that means i have the R180 diff., Im not sure weather its long or short nose. Basically i want to swap it out for an R200 with the same 3.54 gears. I want to know if my current CV axles and diff mounts will bolt up to another diff (R200)? Thanks A lot!!

simply beautiful!! keep up the good work bro

-Lowering springs -tokico shocks and struts -and figure out a way to get both tires to turn lol, lsd or maybe weld lock my r180. Might be a waste but donuts are better when both tires are spinning!!

Yea the heater hose coming from the head bends towards the front of the car, under the injector fan then loops back around, valve, then trough the fire wall. Is there another valve in the return line somewhere? I know there's a coolant temp sensor. I think the core might be plugged. thanks

so this is what happened.... almost as soon as i touched it lol. I guess it snapped due to the corrosion and still water. but this is what i came up with instead of buying at new one, because i am a poor college freshmen. Shizz-zam. I took a couple feet of heater hose and ran it FROM the head DIRECTLY into the heater core inlet, bypassing the broken valve. Then i added in a manuel shut off valve in between. Now this is all working well in my mind. This is where is bites me. I open the valve, let the car heat up, everythings good, I turn on the blower , and YES! warm air filling my car YES! I hop out look under the hood and a few minutes later.... miss getting sprayed in the face by hot water blowing out of the coolant reserve!!!!!!! so i hurried and closed the valve, the spray stopped and so did the hot air... Help. what would cause the water to blow back like that?

yea i found a sight where i can order this 4 seasons part. Thanks a lot! saves A LOT of money lol !

thanks a lot guys, guess i'll start with the vacuum!

help.... its cold... so cold.

ommm my heat dose not work and i think its because my auto air heater control valve has had it and is no longer working. For starters my air condition comes on only when it wants to. I've done everything to try and figure that one out and still nothing. But my defrost still works and blows air pretty strong.... just cold air. When i squeeze the hoes into the valve while reving up, i can feel pressure building but not on the return hose. So i guess the heater core could be plugged but i'll start with control valve. Judging by the white and green corrosion all over it, i'll start there. so what i want to no is, am i on the right track as far as replacing this first? And instead of using the auto air valve, cant i just rig up something like a manual valve that i can just twist the valve open and let the hot fluid through???? this would be so much easier because im afraid there might be a problem with me a/c control unit thats keeping the valve from opening. Thanks!!!!!

this will only work with a tig right? no mig?

so there really is no other way but to just remove the bolt. i was alittle skeptic because i had to replace the thermostat/head gasket one time and im pretty sure some of that fluid curroded the bolt. i actually like the idea of tig welding a screw driver to the bolt and backing it out. i do have a question, what if i were to weld a bolt to the one thats already in there so that it sticks out about an inch and use a nut to tighten it down?? would this be worth it? thanks

I kept wondering why i had to keep replacing the intake/exhaust manifold gasket, why it kept blowing, and why i kept smelling exhaust in front of the car. Until i actually looked for the cause. Turns out the #1 (front of car) exhaust manifold stud broke off in the head. Most people would was take the head off and take it to a shop and have them remove the bolt. Or take a tap to it and drill it out yourself. Neither of witch i want to risk doing on the head. So without removing the head. I would like to know are their any alternative routes i can take. Like a really good sealant or some type of special glue or spacer...? thanks