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About Sketch_hs

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  • Birthday 04/04/1984

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    sacramento, ca

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  1. I want to post my 1jz 280z here for sale. Can't seem to post in for sale sections?
  2. I have a 1jz 280z that will be for sale very soon. r154, efr 7064, working AC! 916 216 3388
  3. Hello, The 1jz engines are about an inch shorter than the 2jz engines. They are also a bit lighter, the 1jz vvti engine being the lightest of the turbo jz series engines.
  4. This time it's a 2jz into a 73 240z. It's not for me though, a customer named Eric. I sold my 1jz 280z and he saw it and had to have one. Not too much progress so far, engine mounted and quickly sprayed the bay back for him. More pics later on
  5. Just sold the car for 8000! Needed money for a down payment on a house. Miss the car already, but will probably build another one someday. Daily driving a 94 300zx NA hardtop now
  6. I spent about 2k on everything, doing all the fab myself
  7. The 1jz stock temp sensor reads about 1/3 up the Z temp gauge at operating temp. Works well enough for me. The Alternator wiring is simple. Obviously the main charge back wire goes the the battery + terminal. The wires at the 1jz alternator are for B+, coil wire (ign +) and charge lamp. You can actually run the B+ wire and coil wire together from any IGN switched 12v. The other wire you can hook up to a charge lamp if you want. Use a multimeter to make sure it's charging properly when you hook it up. Get the mechanical sender from a USDM Mk3 supra turbo r154... worked for me.
  8. Ypipe and downpipe installed. Picked up a nice amount of power but hitting fuel cut all the time Replaced Diff mount with new Nissan. WOW best $40 I ever spent! Fixed my diff bang/clunk and lots of the vibration. Parts on the way for the rest of the exhaust. Pics coming soon.
  9. Nice car. While I'll never understand why someone would want to buy a built car rather than build it themselves, I thank you for doing so, it keeps money in my pockets
  10. Hi, I was reading your 1jz thread and was wondering where exactly is the resistor located on the z tach? I would rather go your route and keep the factory gauges etc. Pretty much the tach signal from the jz pcm is wired straight to the z tach minus the resistor correct? Any info would be great. Thank.

  11. Do a 1.5jz ( 1jz everything but a 2jz block, most people use the NA block) That's what's probably in my future
  12. I could probably get 30 if I drove it freeway only and calmly But the way I drive (boosting all over the place and every gear) I'm getting about 20-22 city and about 25-28 hwy. This is HARD driving. Lots of trips to 120mph, really beating on it. If I drove my supra this way it would probably get 10-13mpg. I also am running 225 width tires at pretty low pressure so thats not helping. I'm very pleased with the millage considering how I drive it. The only long trip i've taken it on was about 250 miles in one day, cruising about 85mph and plenty of boost pull
  13. Yeah i'll need to weigh the car to know for sure! But a 1jz with no AC or PS and a r154 should be about 600-620lbs The l28 fuel injected engine and trans complete should be around 520lbs? It's heavier for sure, but with the significantly improved power and handling who cares Did I mention how much better the gas millage is?
  14. I have a 1jzgte in my 75 280z The 280z tach worked great with the stock tach signal. It's off by about 5-8% at high rpms, good enough. I put a VDO black face boost gauge where my clock was. Check my thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/84424-my-first-z/
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