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Afshin

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Posts posted by Afshin

    Wilwood Superlite defective?

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    Thanks Cody, the last pictures were very helpful. I need to get to the junkyard some day and compare some parts off the 300zx , toyota, with the 280zx....and see if I can do something similar to what you did, but maybe with a caliper with larger brake pads...

    I will certaintly post it, that is if I actually ever get to do it (I always have more plans than time)

    Safe AFR Level?

    in Turbo / Supercharger

    Posted

    I need a little more info before putting in my 2 cents:

    What octane do you run California 91 or non Cal 93-94 ?

    What are the ambient temperatures (Canada vs. texas....)?

    What is your fuel system?

    What temp range spark plugs and lastly is it only street driven or does it see track duty?

    Stock 280ZX Turbo, what octane fuel is okay?

    in Turbo / Supercharger

    Posted

    If I were in his shoes I would not run less than 89 octane. California gas quality is lacking and so. cal. is warm enough. The savings from 89 to 87 is not worth the risk in my opinion (think hot day, someone in integra or golf pushing your buttons........fill in the blanks), even if you are broke. However I don't have first hand exprience of 87 cal. octane damaging a stock set up. Nor would I try to obtain the experience ;)

    Install my 3" exhaust today..

    in Exhaust

    Posted

    Hi Vinh, I also just checked your web site, beautiful car and nice craftsmanship.

    Hey Yasin, have you mounted your downpipe and high flow head yet? if not I would be glad to help you out by taking them off your hands. I will have them on my car within 1 to 2 weeks max. Hint, hint ;)

    Wilwood Superlite defective?

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    Hi John, the stoptech article is a nice one, I have a print out and had posted the link for it here on HybridZ a while back.

    The interesting thin when I got the wilwood rotors, is that they were warped brand new, before braking in the pads (so I could not have screwed that up). WHen turning the wheel after the install the rotor would touch the pads at the same point (like a warped bicycle wheel), I thought it was related to the pistons not being set in since I had not driven it yet. Then on the first drive around the block it knocked so hard I thought something was broken or that I forgot to tighten a caliper bolt..Made sure the hat/rotor bolts were properly torqued (they were done in proper sequence) and all was seating properly....Took it to the shop and indeed the rotor was warped, we turned it and it fixed the problem. I was quite surprised.

    Wilwood Superlite defective?

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    Hi Cody, glad you got the car back on the road. I absolutely love the big brake set up. Feels good every time. BTW one of my two rotors needed extensive turning when new.

    Also, I have noticed that the wWilwood calipers are pretty good at trapping air, specially as the pads thin out and the pistons are extended out. Make sure you tap on the calipers when bleeding them, it often can help dislodge some trapped air.

    Also don't forget to set some toe in on the rear suspension, it really cures the tendency for excessive throttle oversteer and stabilizes the back when pushed.

    Regarding pads I had a set of Portefield R4-S (aggressive street pad with reasonable track ability in a light car with big brakes that run relatively cool) which where pretty good. I recently replaced them with Hawk HP plus (real track pads, but not serious race pad and safe for street/cold use....) I was told that they work great but generate more dust and noise. I figured I would give it a try and if too much (I hate noisy pads on the street) I would use them on track days only. However, much to my surprise, not only did they work better than the milder portefields R4-S pads, as expected, both hot and cold, but they generate no noise whatsoever with my Wilwood set up (lots of grease on the back) and I can't notice any significant increase in dust. I have not had them long enough to comment about rotor wear, however with the big brake set up on a light car (that is compare to modern day cars, not a 240), I would not expect too much wear.

    Jon, if you don't mind what has your experience been with the pads?

    Lastly Cody, what happened with the rear brake set up?

    Twin Turbo 3 liter vs V8 Powerplants

    in Non Tech Board

    Posted

    I have always been a turbo guy and love high revving engines such as in the M3 and S2000. However, I certainly would not call anyone with a clear preference for high displacement engines as lazy. The whole point for grown men and women putting so much attention, time and dare I say affection for a silly machine is enjoyment.

    The instant kick and response from a V8 is always a blast and can generate a smile I would never tire from it. Yet, for me, building the power in a turbo car or a nice high revving engine (not a civic) helps me better connect with the machine and as such greatly enhances my driving experience. For others, powerful immediate thrust is the key. On the same token I love open track events and attempting to learn to balance my car's handling thru 20 minutes of high speed turns. In short, I somewhat prefer the element of pushing and controlling the car thru turns than pure push me in the back of the seat thrust, though I certainly want and appreciate both. Others get more kicks out of faster quarter mile runs (again more thrust). Some people prefer foreplay as for them it increase the ensuing pleasure, for others it is a distracting to the main event and a nuisance ;)

    Calling a group lazy based on what gives them the bigger kick, to me shows a myopic perspective. Heck, if immediate kick and power puts the bigger smile on your face, IMO, you would be plain stupid to drive a S2000 and wait forever or having to drop two gears before you can accelerate. It's not about connecting with the machine, immediate acceleration, quarter mile runs, open track events, handling, low end or high end thrust...it's simply about what give you the most fun and help relieve the stress and or mundane routines of daily life. Failing to see this as to why we make different choices and have different preferences, would be a shortcoming.

    Save my engine fom detonation Please!

    in Fuel Delivery

    Posted

    I find it odd that the car went from 15-16 psi and no detonation to 10 psi with detonation because of the better breathing and less backpressure from the new downpipe. Specially when as Bernard pointed out JWT usually run on the rich side with AFR’s in the 10’s on boost. Even if the car was is now in the 11-12 afr’s because of the downpipe…..it should not detonate at 10 intercooled psi.

    I still agree with all that has been said, however I would suggest you try a few things first and systematically before you get your hands on a wideband O2 and the rest. My recommendation would be, in order:

     

    -Use up the gas in your car and fill her up from another station. Bad gas really does happen, and it could cause your problem.

    -Clean the ecu/efi connectors and so on.. it is a old Z after all ;)

    -Re-gap plugs around .25-.30

    -Use the seafoam (I know that is not the main problem, but it has the potential of significantly helping, should you have carbon deposits..)

    -Drive the car and see how she does.

    -Then increase fuel pressure in step. Never fully trust a new gauge, my brand new autometer fuel gauge reads 5 psi high so 40 is actually 35….. Keep making it richer by increasing psi by 3-4 lbs and then drive it and see if the detonation goes away. I f it is running rich and still detonating, it is less likely to be from fuel and JWT code. You changed the fuel regulator, so maybe this is your problem.

    -Then retard timing a few degree and see if still knock, then retard another few degree and test it again…., then you will have a idea about potential timing problem

     

    It won’t cost you anything to try these, and at the end you may end up figuring out the problem or at least better ruling out potential sources for the premature detonation.

    280ZXT vs 280ZX n/a suspension question

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    The turbo suspension was a little better tuned. Interestingly as mentioned the springs where a little softer than the n/a, but the shocks were firmer as were the bushings in the rear control arm (so the ride was actually a litle firmer). Also the front anti-sway bar was larger by 1mm (23 vs 22mm).

     

    However, the original spring/shock rates for both cars was suited for a big sloppy 4 door sedan and not a sports car. They should not be used!!!

    Get a set of performance springs and shocks and replace the bushings. The only part worth taking of the turbo car is the front sway bar.

    7m-gte

    in Other Engines

    Posted

    It would be great if you made and sold the mounts, driveshaft.....the 7mgte is such a great engine and unlike the RB25, is quite cheap and abundant in the US.

    Oh my!! Leave it to the Japanese!!!!

    in Body Kits & Paint

    Posted

    Shauno, PLEASE be more considerate and post a WARNING for any such posts, e.g. not for those with weak stomaches, or have bucket handy....

    I gagued and almost puked all over my kid. I will have to take some anti-nausea medication before looking at some of those again. To think that they pay to have that done and drive around in them, simply unbelievable!!!

    Suspension for an 82 280zxt

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    If you want to minimize the body roll you need to get the sway bars, they will do much much much more for this than the strut tower bar (no comparison whatsoever). Also the rear strut tower bar will have very little effect on a ZX. The front one does help.

    Also I would nor worry to much about the squat, it does not effect handling nearly as much as you would think. DOn't forget to change the control arm BUSHINGS, the car will NEVER handle the way it is supposed to with 20 year old soft bushings.

    Changing to stiffer springs than you already have, IMO should be the last thing you try, if the goal is to improve handling in turns. Off course if you had the stock springs they I would recommend changing them first.

    Has anyone besides me using a LM-1 to read A/F?

    in Non Tech Board

    Posted

    Grassroots motorsports mag had done a review of 4 wideband units including the LM-1 and the PLX units (I have one which works great and auto calibrates, which is why I chose the unit). I don't remember all the details, but the good news is that they found ALL of them to work VERY well (when calibrated, if needed). They also tested a narrow band unit which as expected faired very poorly and had very wide variance (non-repeatable) in addition to being inaccurate.

    L6 Turbo PCV System Problems???

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    Originally posted by TonyD

    15psi is about half of what Jeff is running. Even with good piston ring seals, there will be some blowby---the key is to minimize any oil migration whatsoever.

     

    I don’t believe that I was referring to Jeff’s car in any way whatsoever. I simply stated that with my set up, I have had no noteworthy problems to date, no more no less. I also have not implied that the stock set up could or should not be improved. I have thought about using a catch can myself, and certainly would modify it if I where to run 30psi. My point is that with 15-17 psi on a healthy stock engine (my car burns no oil) you can maintain a reliable and competitive car for non-professional level open road track events. I may very well modify my PCV system at some point, it’s just not on my priority list, but it is on my extensively never ending wish list (I have no significant oil build up in intake track, even after extended and hard use on the track…). As we all know, there is no end to reasonable enhancements that can be made to these cars, which is clearly demonstrable by my credit card bills ;)

    However, I don’t see a healthy l28et having enough blowby at 15-17 psi level to cause detonation and damage the engine (many many of us have been running under 20 psi with stock pcv systems over many years). So my 2cents is that for non jeffP extreme set ups stock pcv will NOT cause engine failure…. Sure the system can be improved, but that is far from having to do it as the many other things one would have to do prior to having a reliable track worthy car. So the direct answer to the initial question is: No you will not experience the same problems as with the VG30DETT engine.

    BTW can you tell us a little more about your set up, 17 vs. 30psi goal, turbo, fuel system..…

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