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Afshin

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Afshin last won the day on July 28 2005

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About Afshin

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  1. I read your post z31ecu. Would a 88 turbo ecu swap into an 83zxt? Also considering nistune on 88t ecu or 87 ecu. Please advise, Joel from FL 850 217 1484

  2. has not set their status

  3. I don't mean to imply that the Tokicos are not good. I had the somewhat standard tokico/eibach combination for many years and was certainly satisfied with them and think they're appropriate for a street car with occasional light track duty. You would get your money's worth out of them. I upgraded once I started to spend more time on the track. Suspension is mostly about balance and proper set up for each intended use, which is why it's soooo much trickier than increasing power/boost for example. When I first put my coil over set up it felt better (less lean and play..) but I also think it was slower around the track until I got to tune it some (change my alignment settings, camber, height, sway bar...) and then it finally performed better. So in short eibach/tokico is a reasonable start along with new bushings. I'm a fan of Bilstein's, but have not seen them for a stock ZX.
  4. I'm using 280lbs/in front and rear springs rates and find the ride to be significantly better than I had expected. This is using a s13 stance coilover set up which I feel to be excellent dampers, that I modified for my 280 ZXT. This car is a little more set up for track use, but it's still driven on the street. Ride on regular roads/highway is excellent, gets reasonably bumpy on some city roads, but still acceptable and with sufficient travel to keep good tire patch contact on uneven roads. I also feel that the dampers affect the final ride more than spring rates (within a reasonable range).
  5. I have a post asking how to wire a z31 coil and transistor. I have a 1970 240z with l28et and used you guide onthe z31 ecu swap but I would like to wire the z31 coil and ignitor(transistor) your input would be great

     

    Thanks and sorry for just dropping in.

    thanks again.

  6. I have also been using the superlites (same size pistons) with various Hawk pads over several years and have only noted minimal pad taper (approximately 1mm). I have not rotated the pads nor have I had any issues. Would buy them again.
  7. There is one key factor that I think you need to decide in order to set up a good practical working plan. Is this going to be a track oriented car or a race car? Your initial questions suggest more of a race care set up, but then with cost and time ,kids dogs, pesky work and other issues (as is for most) along with no trailer and with no clear indication of strong desire for wheel to wheel racing it seems that a track oriented car may be a reasonable match. In my mind, those are very different animals. Race car is so much more involved with higher cost and lots and lots of time needed. My set up has changed over the years from street to street/track and now to track oriented but still streetable. As you can imagine I have thought about setting up for racing, more than once, but after finally realizing how different in scope to two projects would actually be, along with significant time limitation (work, kids, life..) and my desire to be on the track having fun as opposed to have the car getting ready for the track sitting in my garage for 3 years, I stuck to building a competent well balanced track oriented car. Roll bar vs cage depends on it being raced or not, could always start with a proper/good roll bar and then make it cage should you be getting more serious on the track. Fuel cell, always a good idea, but not vital if not racing. For the suspension question, if starting from scratch, would do coilovers as initial cost effort is only a little more and it offers so much more ability to tune as you get faster on the track and further modify the car. Megasquirt good idea, but not needed to start having fun with the project and more likely to make this a jackstand project as opposed to driving it, can always be done later. So in short, my personal 2 cents, should you want to drive 5-7 HPDE per year as you suggested and have time limitations is to focus on suspension, suspension and then again suspension set up along with reasonable safety precautions such as roll bar and then go enjoy it on the track. You can always continue to improve the one thousand other things, as you are still enjoying the car. If it is to be raced, then you are in for the full package, from the getgo.
  8. What are you goals for the car (daily driver, weekend car, track ...) and what's your approximate budget?
  9. Top notch quality! http://www.betamotorsports.com/products/products.php?cat=4
  10. The adapter for the miata is for a 10/1 fitting. I was told and hence always thought that our cars also used 10/1 but I see that you said it is 10/1.25. If so, then I would be in error about the miata kit fitting our brake lines directly (I have not checked myself and was about the get the adapter from flying miata, so I can't confirm).
  11. You can get the adapters from flying miata: http://www.flyinmiata.com/index.php?deptid=4539&parentid=0&stocknumber=14-76240 They stock the part now so you don't need to be part of the group buy anymore
  12. It's because side wall stiffness affects the tire patch size, independent of weight and psi, that it would cause some inaccuracies. Since we can't measure the stiffness, we can't account for it. Just picture a run flat tire that will maintain a decent contact patch at 10 psi to a rated H tire at the same psi, it would significantly affect the weight estimate. I do agree that careful squaring of the cardboard to ensure accurate foot print measurement is likely the most important variable.
  13. Cool idea! Temperature should not make at difference as it effects psi linearly and is accounted for in the calculation. The main variables that I can think of are tire side wall stiffness, distribution of pressure through out the carcass and measurement error in taking the actual foot print for each tire. Based on these we can expect it not be very accurate for total weight. However most variables are fairly constant between all four tires, so this method could potentially be very useful in figuring out corner weight percentage, notably for those with coilover set ups. I will have to try it.
  14. I recently tried different potential fun and practical daily drivers (used 2004 to 2007 models) including some of the above mentioned one, here's my summary: WRX (2007) and mazdaspeed 3, thought the speed 3 was more fun and responsive (less lag) and handled better (in stock form) but the wrx AWD power delivery felt better than the FWD (which I'm biased against). THe wrx would need better springs shock and then should handle appropriate to its well designed chassis. Also test drove legacy GT (2006) and mazdaspeed 6. Liked both quite a bit but was not happy with gas mileage on legacy GT. Also thought the speed 6 handles better, at least with stock suspension. Comparing the speed 3 and 6, the 3 is a little quicker and spunkier (weight related) and the 6 is more refined, subtle, better chassis feel, suspension with AWD vs FWD which is why I preferred it. If you don't mind FWD I would definitely go test drive the speed 3. Comparing the legacy GT and WRX, I preferred the GT, all the fun but nicer interior, quieter and less of a police magnet. The wrx has advantage of greater availability and cheaper. ALso tried 2004 BMW 330i, liked it, did everything well as expected, nice balance but also less exciting. At the end of the day, I'm a turbo junkie. Also considered the Audi, but the reliability seems to be hit and miss. Many people like them but I know of enough who were unhappy with reliability). I ended up buying the speed 6 about 3 months ago and absolutely love it. Only thing I did not like was the power drop off after 5500 rpm (from electronic throttle programming from factory, the ecu starts closing the throttle past 5500 rpm even when pedal is to the floor) which I remedied with a COBB re-flash, making the car much faster (much more power at high rpm, not much difference in peak power). Same applies to the speed 3.
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