oatmilk
-
Posts
110 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Posts posted by oatmilk
-
-
I would go with a JDM 2jzgte vvti motor that includes the non-mobilzer ecu and oe jdm maff with a complete uncut engine harness. I would do a timing belt kit on it, change the valve stem seals, valve cover gaskets, rear sump oil pan conversion. Get the Driftmotion kit that allows you to remove the A/C and P/S. Make or buy your own motor mounts and tranny mounts. Get a 7MGTE starter
FYI: Trans wise you can get brand new R-154's here:https://www.driftmotion.com/. Cheaper Toyota option would be a W58 instead of a R154 or look all the other options mentioned in previous posts Get whatever 1jz clutch kit of your choosing. Custom driveshaft.
Save money where you can by buying the parts below used if available.
Just my $0.02
Parts list:
2jzgte vvti engine (Complete)- http://www.ebay.com/itm/TOYOTA-JDM-2JZGTE-ARISTO-SUPRA-TWIN-TURBO-MOTOR-VVTI-ENGINE-AT-TRANS-ECU-CHIP-/152658829321?hash=item238b2ce009:g:YVMAAOSw7cVZjPGh&vxp=mtr
New R-154 5spd transmission - www.driftmotion.com/
240z 2jzgte swap kit - http://www.ebay.com/itm/Engine-Transmission-Mounts-Swap-Kit-For-Nissan-Datsun-S30-240Z-260Z-280Z-2JZ-GTE-/331430355287?hash=item4d2ac9e157:g:cLcAAOSwMpZUoiCh&vxp=mtr
2jzgte gasket/seal kit - http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-Toyota-full-gasket-kit-for-2JZ-GTE-2JZGTE-engines-JZA80-JZS161-04111-46056-/282365877095?epid=658943624&hash=item41be515b67:g:4YcAAOSwnKFYRfHw&vxp=mtr
Gates racing timing belt (Optional) - http://www.ebay.com/itm/GATES-93-98-Toyota-Supra-2JZGE-3-0L-L6-2JZGTE-Blue-Racing-Timing-Belt-RB-ea-/291153431758?hash=item43ca18ccce:g:ie0AAOxy7nNTV0bN&vxp=mtr
1jzgte clutch kit - http://www.ebay.com/itm/QSC-Stage-3-Clutch-Kit-Race-Flywheel-Supra-Soarer-SC300-1JZGTE-2JZGTE-R154-Swap-/282043672100?hash=item41ab1ce624:g:tWwAAOSwpRRWpqoI&vxp=mtr
A/C & P/S delete kit (Optional) - http://www.driftmotion.com/product-p/dm2082.htm
Upgraded Oil pump (Optional) - http://www.ebay.com/itm/Titan-Motorsports-Modified-Oil-Pump-Toyota-Supra-2JZ-2JZ-GTE-MKIV-1993-98-/122083020388?epid=531625707&hash=item1c6cb70e64:g:pbsAAOSwMtxXrpqj&vxp=mtr
-
Make shift set-up to see that it actually runs. Next up is running PTFE fuel lines from the ATL (with internal fuel sump containing dual Bosch 044's) fuel cell to the fuel rail
-
Better pic.
-
If u can find it I put a pic and the first start-up video (poor quaity) in the members gallery called: OG 240Z-2JZGTE
I will make a better quality first start-up video later on.
Thanks.
P.S. Yes it turned into a much longer project but then I had expected. Im sure my first drive and smile on my face will quickly erase all the years it has took.
-
will try to get it home this weekend or next at the latest. Forgot how to post pics and vids. Will do soon.
-
Believe it or not this project is still alive. I just wrote a huge long essay detailing every bit of this project and a tribute to johnc whose fingerprints are all over my car and wouldn't you know I accidentally closed the page and my whole disertation was gone in a blink of an eye. Suffice to say, I'm proud to say its actually running for the first time. Betwen johnc and Vildani I've had the best working on my car. Can wait to finish it and bring it out to some shows.
-
Well I'll try this again. Link is below as I'm writing this post so if it disappears as soon as I hit the "Post" button i must be doing something wrong. Thanks
http://www.import-car.com/ecu-diagnostics/#
-
I accidentally double posted and now the article and link is gone. Not sure what happened. PM me if you want it I guess. Bummer. Not sure if a posting rule was broken or not, surely wasn't intentional.
-
Bummer. Sorry to hear about that but know the feeling.
-
Just speechless. Class A person all around. We lost a legend in the community. One of our Icons. He literally built my car...coil-over suspension, flares, LSD, seam welded, roll cage, sub frame connectors, reinforced sway bar mounts, modified trans tunnel, and my/his masterpiece, the original 2JZ engine cradle I commissioned him to make for my car and he went on to sell to a few others. One of the last ones maybe before he left to Benton.
Wow. Prayers to his family. Wow. 2nd friend to pass in one week.
-
The complete OS Giken motor as set-up in the black z car at their booth to be replicated would cost ~$70K they said. 3.3 Litre with the new OS Giken head, built by Rebello. Told me that the engine would continue to make power up to and past 9K and was limited to some issue with the carbs depsite the posted dyno sheet. Owner of the black car is a Calif guy. Not mentioned much since the black engine compartment kind of hid it was that it was nicely shaved and wire tucked. Previous SEMA shows in the past had Datsun's as well. Always nice to get more Datsun recognition.
-
-
Im going with the MS3 Pro Plug and Play. Should be up and running by the end of February 2015.
-
great project. keep up the good work.
-
John,
Not yet but u know how life can kind of get in the way of things. It's at the shop making progress, albeit slowly, which is perfect for my budget when your raising four daughters. Perhaps it will be at JCCS this year. Be well my friend.
-
Glad to hear. Those were made from the originals I commissioned him to make for my car.
-
Thanks Miles. That is the plan. Thanks to all for contributing.
-
Latest update. Well Lowes didn't have any reasonably priced Step drill bits just the $40 + dollar Irwin Uni-bit. Not sure that it was HSS steel and would drill well on cast iron I went back home with the idea to just try and remove the drums and have a look inside.
As mentioned in my first post I had an idea that removing the drums wasn't going to be difficult and sure enough it wasn't. Reviewed the FSM and moved forward. Since the car is not driven much and I had the brakes done years ago, the shoes looked brand new. The only differences between the rear passenger and driver side were that the driver side had the wheel cylinder replaced way back when and you can tell its still pretty much brand new. After adjusting the wheel cylinder with a flat head screwdriver ( sitting facing the drum in a downward motion) to loosen the brakes I put the drum back on and it spun relatively easily. I re-hooked up the emergency brakes by reinserting the clevis pin and had my daughter pull the handle to see the motion of what it was doing. Looking at the emer. brake operation it seems every time its applied the drums move out more and more and don't return making the brakes tighter and tighter. I can't see that not happening. I looked at how the adjustment is done in the FSM and man I wish I could see a video of proper operation. For now I have the emergency brakes disconnected. I can still hear the drums rubbing in a specific location during rotation of the drivers side rear wheel. Me thinks that perhaps the return springs are not strong enough of the wheel cylinders are not moving properly. This is where I'm at a disadvantage due to me not working on brakes a whole lot especially drum brakes.
So next up is the either doing the brake adjustment the FSM way ( which based on visuals of my Emer.brake operation may re-lock up the drums) or take it to someone that knows correct brake drum operation to get another viewpoint.
Thanks all,
-
Thanks John. Headed to Lowes now for the stepped 3/4 drill.
-
Thanks Six Shooter. Onto the drums tomorrow. Will update hopefully with good news.
Thanks again,
-
Okay here is the latest. Put the rear of the car on jack stands. Then i used my flare wrench and some tubing and loosened the rear bleeder on the master cylinder. The brake fluid only dribbled out. No gusher at all. Went to spin the rear tires. Passenger side rear spun a little but still dragging. Driver side rear, no bueno. It wouldn't budge at all. I then removed the master cylinder from them the brake booster to see if the master cylinder was moving at all inside the cylinder. I pushed the tip of a screwdriver in to force it compress. It only moved a 1/4" at best with as much pressure as I could muster up. Being a newbie to M/C movement I wasn't exactly sure what the correct stroke of the 240z should be. But taking one of the post above into consideration, when putting the M/C back together with the booster I put some washers on the two bolts before putting on the nut. The net effect being like I adjusted the rod coming from the brake booster back a tad so as to not make the master cylinder force the brakes into a dragging posture.
So i moved on to the emergency brake. Looked it over on the outside and didn't see anything unusual. Pulled the clevis on the driver side rear and wiggle that around a bit and no change. I then took out the big sledge hammer and gave a few whacks on the curved portion as recommended in a post above. You could see the drum moving a bit front to back. That was at least good news because I now know the the drums are not frozen from motion front to back but just from rolling motion. I then went for a non-no. I sprayed PB Blaster inside the drums via the one small hole on the drum face. I didn't care about ruining the shoes since I will redoing them anyway. I just wanted to see if a combination of PB and inertia from the engine turning and weight of the car forcing the wheels to rotate would loosen things up enough for the car to freely roll. Knowing the amount of reduced braking this could result in, I just slowly began to drive the car back and forth in the driveway only. Sure enough the car started to move more easily. The engine wasn't having such a hard time. Picture a big smile on my face. After having did a valve adjustment, SU carb adjustment and install of a new electric carb friendly fuel pump which go the engine running much better the two days before I was on Cloud 9! Decided by a few good runs up and back on the driveway that the car was braking well and rolling backwards via its own weight down the inclined part of the driveway to drive for a spin slowly up and down the block. Again it was working perfectly. Happy, Happy Joy Joy. Figured the God's must be looking down favorably on me today. Company came over to the house so I put the tools away and went in for a bit. Went back out a hour later to move the car farther up in the driveway. Uh-oh! Not good! No rollie via its own weight anymore. Can hear the rear drums dragging again and catching and releasing a bit. This was far from Miller Time, it was Bummer Time. Ok at this point I'm figuring the PB blaster must have worn off or something. Next up take up further advice from posts above and remove the rear drums tomorrow and take a look. Unfortunately I still haven't been able to completely rule out anything from either end of the car being the problem. As they used to say on TV "To be Continued".
Thanks for the help and ideas.
-
Thanks. Went through many searches on here and the web. Just wanted an answer likes yours that kind of tells me what to expect or look for.
Thank you.
-
Also tried banging on them with a mallet. No change. I don't have a propane burner to try that method.
-
Hello All,
I have a basically stock 1973 240z thats been lowered by the previous owner. Probably cut springs. I drive the car about 3-4 times a year so obviously it sits for long periods of time. I knew from a while back the brakes seemed to be dragging. Well I went to drive it yesterday and the rears are really dragging. The car will not roll even on a slight incline. If you jacked up the rear you cannot turn the wheel. The car will move forwards and back by the power of the engine in first gear but it will not roll. Let off the the power and it will not roll. I changed the master vac a while ago using a Cardone A1 reman unit. I recently verified that the reaction disc is in place. A new master cylinder was installed at the same time. So I need to know the proper steps to diagnosing this. If I unbolt the master cylinder from the master vac there is no change, the rear drums stay locked. The emergency brake is in the down (not engaged) position. I'm wondering if its the master cylinder but I have no idea how to test it on the car or off. The stock front brakes also seem to be dragging but nothing like the rears. Not even close. Still leads me to the master cylinder. In regards to adjustment of the rod from the master vac...not possible Maybe some are adjustable but mine would not budge a mm. Yes I can see it has threads behind the acorn shaped end piece but they appear to be simply decoration as that thing doesn't budge. I havent tried any PB Blaster on it though. If I open the rear hydraulic lines for each rear drum brake will that release the brakes? All brakes lines appear to be in working condition. I'm not sure if I had the emergency brake on when it was sitting for the last long period or not.
Just want to drive this thing and now I can't. Thanks for all the help in advance.
2JZ engine build question
in Toyota L6 Forum
Posted
By the way im in west la so not to to far away if u ever want to see mine.