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oatmilk

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Posts posted by oatmilk

  1. A link I found showing some really good pictures of the new engine.

     

    Also check out near the bottom of the page Nissan's realtime adjustable compression ratio crankshaft technology and the self repairing clearcoat paint. Cool stuff.

     

    http://press.nissan-global.com/EN/PHOTOGRAPHS/technology.html#VQ35HR

    http://www.350z-tech.com/zwiki/VQ35HR

    http://www.nissanperformancemag.com/september06/vq35hr/

     

     

     

    I apologize if this is an old link repost.

  2. for my friend Mike Kojima. It's for his time attack car...

     

    I'm man enough to admit it, I'm a internet link whore :-(

     

    http://www.nittotire.com/blog_detail.asp?id=7

    http://www.nittotire.com/blog_detail.asp?id=8

    http://www.nittotire.com/blog_detail.asp?id=9

    http://www.nittotire.com/blog_detail.asp?id=10

     

     

    John C,

     

    The bonus check is hopefully coming around the corner. I'll call about possibly scheduling a visit for the 2jz 240z. I'd like to at minimum get the drivetrain in.

     

    Thanks!

  3. My guess would that you could bypass it. You could replace the etb with a manual tb easy enough. The one question would be can you still to use the stock ecu anymore. I'm sure there is a way.

     

    There are a few aftermarket ecu's...Motec, Autronic, AEM to name a few, that have the capabilty to control stock etb.

  4. one was the guys that run the datsun resoration parts business..."too something" is their name and the other was the first to my knowledge, the white 280z that was in Turbo magazine years ago. That guy still owns the car and has a Z shop in the San Fernando valley I 've been recently told.

  5. Looks awesome Zgad!

     

    Did make masurements for the mounts that could be duplicated? Also is your 2JZgte a rear sump originally? Most 2jz's I see are front sump but yours looks to be rear sump. Did you move the orginal cross member at all? If not, your new crossmember sits just in front of the original one? Is that correct?

     

    thanks,

    oatmilk

  6. I'm no expert on the engine but do know that a VQ30det is being used in the Nismo and other 350Z in the GT 500 class (twin turboed not single like the stocker). It was also used two years ago "instead" of the RB26dett engine in the 2003 Nismo Sykline JGTC cars. That doesnt prove its a better engine, and of course any prfessionally prepared engine bears almost no resemblance to the stocker. But facts is facts. And of course we now know that the VQ30DETT powered Nismo 350Z won the JGTC championship in its first year of competition over Twin turbo V-8 Supras and Twin turbo V-6 NSX's. Just my two cents.

  7. I live in west los angeles. I just got two quotes for body work on my 1973 240z. The original color of the car is Datsun color code 115. It was repainted in red by the P.O. The car has a scratch like dent on the passenger door ( not deep at all) one ding on the rear tailight panel and one ding on the left corner edge of the hood. Two rust bubbles (2mm in diameter) on the windshield cowl cover, thats it for rust. I love red 240Z's but the P.O replaced the dash with a crack free one and the engine compartment and wheel wheels are still looking good with the original blue metallic paint so I decided to go original. The interior is white ( aka beige or off-white). I need to have that restored as well. Any suggestions for body and interior shops in the los angeles area that take good care of Z cars are welcome. If you have pictures of your car painted in the 115 color code please send them to me at: oatmilk@hotmail.com

     

    Both quotes came within a $200 of each other:

    R&I front & rear-$150

    Strip paint down to bare metal for cracks and chips-$600

    Repair dings & dents ( whole vehicle), remove parts to gain access-$500

    Primer and wet sand car complete and paint car complete in BC/CC $1850

    Paint door jam, underhood, inside trunk-$295

    Color sand & buff complete-$300

    Total-Shop#1 $3695, Shop# 2 was $3500. 1-2 months to do the work at both

     

    What do you think? I have seen both shops work and they both are good. One shop will use Dupont and the other PPG. I asked about imported paint systems...Sikkens, Glassurit and so on, and the typical response was they are good but your mostly paying for the name and importing costs.

     

    Thanks for the help in advance,

  8. I know it seems wierd for the rims to fit both cars. Thats why I went to try them on. I 've been so confused on the how and whys of why some fit and others dont. I was looking at my 280zx turbo snowflake rims earlier before I went and they seemed to have an offset more similar to newer rims than the typical older rims. What sealed the deal was measuring the turbo rims and then using the offset chart on this webpage: Can someone post it?

     

    http://www.rsracing.com/tech-wheel.html#backspace

     

    I figured to take the guy up on his offer of trying them out. He said it would help him when other Z guys would call anyway.

     

    Like it said take it for what its worth. If it helps one person, it was worth it to me going down there.

  9. FYI. Check out these on EBAY:

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7939647833&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT

     

    I actually went to the palce and tried them on the back of my stock height 1972 240z.

    The rears fit with about a little over a 1/4" inch between the strut housing and tire. The front of the same rim was about 1/4" outside the rear wheel well. if the car was lowered you would rub with these tires. Using tires that didnt have as much bulge would help a bunch, but it would still be close.

     

    Using the front rim on the rear of my car, it fit perfectly. Actually the rim was inside the wheel well by a few millimeters. It would tuck perfectly on a lowered car. I hope this helps somone regarding fitment at least regarding the offsets listed.

     

    The guy is really cool. The rims are really light.

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