juxsa
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Posts posted by juxsa
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And here is how she sits after spending all of yesterday on her. These pics were taken around 8:30 and I had spent about 11 hours working.. I was in the process of trying to bolt on the fenders but was getting frustrated getting everything lined up and was reaching the "F it" attitude which means I get sloppy and careless so I stopped and called it a day.
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It's been a few weeks since I have had any time to spend on the car. Yesterday I took the day off to finish the rust repair on the passenger side inner fender. Hopefully it will only take a few hours and minimal adjustments to get the fenders lines up and bolted on cause then the car will be ready to get back on the road.
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It's a Christmas car
. The parts car I have is green so it is pretty funny as I swap out the red and green body panels. -
Well I figured out that I needed to seal off the whole area so that's what I did. Also, this seam sealer is freaking awesome. I forgot to take a picture of it but before I welded in the big piece I welded in that little hole and sealed it in too.
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I'm doing my best to take as many pics as I can
here's some progress today.
That headlight area is EXACTLY what's up next to patch on my car. Thanks for the pics. They give me more clean idea of what I need to do.
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A bit more progress
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Did a little more metal work over the last several days. The weather hasn't been great with rain off and on so progress has been slow. Did a couple of patches around the inner fender and cut out a rotten piece on the drivers side where the windshield wiper goes. Lucky for me my buddy has a couple of S30 cars that I can cut on to get things I need. I also picked up a 77 S30 parts car that has solid outer fenders and a damn near perfect hatch.
I need to use some seam sealer on the patches and a few more hours cleaning then I will be able to primer and paint the inner fenders to keep them from rusting again. I also bought several cans of Fluid Film with the extender hose and sprayed inside the front half of the frame. That should also help prevent further rusting.
I am also figuring out that it is a lot harder to take photos documenting the work on the car. Sure it sounds easy to just whip out your phone and snag a couple of pictures, but while you're doing the work you either forget to take the pictures or you don't want to take off your gloves or wash your hands, pull out your phone, take a few pictures, then put your gloves back on and get back to work. When you're on a roll, stopping to take a picture is the last thing on your mind.
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It was a bad TIU big thanks to NewZed for the help
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If I could thumbs up this post 100 times I would. We'll look through the fsm and let you know what we figure out
There's actually a test procedure for the dual pickup units in the Engine Electrical chapter of the FSM. Disconnecting the white wire is part of the test. So that's not really a problem.
Could be that you did something else while you were there that is causing problems. You say no spark, but are you sure it's not no fuel? My car wouldn't start with the tachometer disconnected. The ECU didn't like the signal from the coil, on Pin 1. Did you do more deleting thanjust the water temperature circuit.
I'd open up the FSM and test the distributor parts. Your wiring looks fine.
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If you are unable to contribute in helping solve the issue could you not crap the thread
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Yeah the entire wiring harness was taken out of the car, removed (deleted) wiring that went to A/C and EFI stuff, then the rest was rewrapped and reinstalled. The white wire has been completely removed from the car as well as the water temp relay. He's doing a not quite full on restoration of the car.
Does his TIU need the water temp relay in order to tell the dist to spark? I can't help but think that doing the GM HEI mod to the TIU fix the issue
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I'm thinking the TIU from the non CA 76 needs that signal from the water temp relay to tell the distributor to fire. I think using a TIU from another year would be worth a try or doing the GM HEI mod
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Took the passenger side fender off the car yesterday. Again I was glad to see that there was hardly any rust. There were two spots under the battery tray that will require a patch but not a big deal. I was just glad to see that the rust was minimal. I also got from the Zstore a bunch of the little rubber pieces that go on the fender and hood area as well as a new leather shift boot to replace the dry rotted one.Over the weekend the plan is to put the patches in, wire wheel brush any remaining surface rust off, and then primer and paint the inner fenders.
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Well over the weekend I pulled the drivers side fender off. I was worried about what I might find but fortunately the rust is minimal. Over the week I'm going to clean off the rust and paint the inner fender.
I also have a weird problem where the headlights blow the 30amp fuse (not sure what size it's supposed to be cause that's what was there when I got it) where the fuse links are in the engine bay. The low beams work even with the blown fuse it's only the brights that cause the short.
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Unfortunately the only junk yard here only has 1 S13 that's been picked clean. I'll have to buy new calipers. I did find that one thread that discussed the swapping of the ebrake lever. Thanks for helping
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Man, you should have said in Post #3 instead of your snarky reply. You screwed up.
Well, I read Miles "Call modern motorsport and ask." post as a snarky response in the same vain as "google it". If he was being genuine then I apologize. I typically don't start threads asking a question that can be answered with a quick search.
But we now have 10 posts in this thread without an answer. Do you or miles know about using S14 rear calipers on S30 cars since you both have been responding in this thread?
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This is where writing skills come in to play. The phrase "instead of" would have helped. "S14 instead of S13". Then "if I use S14 calipers would the Z31 rotors work?" You wrote an unclear question then insulted somebody who gave good advice. Good luck. The internet is not really free.
I already called modern motorsports and asked and Joe did not know the answer. Hence, why I started a thread asking about it. But instead of getting help, I am dealing with thread trolling. I have edited my first post as I have been able to gather more information. But alas I am still stumped on being able to use the S14 caliper. I was hoping that someone who has done the conversion would be able to pipe up.
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This is what the webpage says
"One pair of precision machined rear disc adapter
Enables a bolt on swap of a late model disc brake equipment to your 70-78Z car.
Stub axle is not required.
Features
Precision machined steel brackets
Greater available braking force
Excellent emergency brake cable geometry
Black zink plated to minimize corrosion
Benefits
Modern technology and performance
Rotors are from a 84-85 300ZX NA 4 lug
Retains emergency brake function
Late model 89-94 rear 240SX calipers
Modern day brake pad compounds"
http://www.modern-motorsports.com/z-rear-disc-cnc-brake-brackets.html
I know that S14 rear calipers will bolt up to an S13 but they have to modify their ebrake to work with the s14 calipers. Has anyone here used S14 calipers instead of the S13 calipers with these brackets?
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Sand blasted and painted a spare set of control arms and TC rods the other weekend and installed/replaced bushings in the front end of the car this past Friday and Saturday. I also took off the hideous aftermarket wheels with dry rotted tires and replaced them with a used but almost new set of wheels and tires. 15in Rota Grid V wheels and 225x50 Tires. Due to rain I didn't get to drive the car until Tuesday and dear god the thing handles great. I turn the wheel and the car goes where I point it!!! My little A4 Audi handles great too especially after all the suspension and drive train work I've done to it but this 40 year old Japanese sports car is a completely different beast.
I still need to replace the rest of the bushings in the back half of the car but doing the front end made a world of difference. The L28 is so damn stout doing any sort of motor swap is now written off. I'll be replacing the rest of the bushings after I get my rear calipers and steel brake lines.
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Hello everyone!!! I picked up a 1978 5 speed 280Z on 4-7-16 and I will use this thread to document the build of it. Unsure of mileage. It reads 58k miles on the odo. Frame rails were solid and there was no rust located under the battery. Looks like it was repainted back in the 90's to fire engine red. It was a decent job too because there is no over spray that I could see and the gaskets and trim were all clean. There is some cancer on the body panels but nothing severe. I will need to get a replacement hatch though. Not sure if I can save that. Interior is pretty damn clean too. Tach, gas, temp, and clock are not functioning currently. The door cards are in good shape except that one of the prior owners cut holes and placed some aftermarket speakers there
It was not firing on all 6 cylinders when I went to look at it. Due to that I talked the guy down 20% off his asking price. Drove it home and on the weekend replaced one of the fuel injector plugs and BOOM all 6 cylinders fire and she purrs like a kitten. Changed the oil with 15w40 Rotella and the 51515 oil filter. Got her on some jack stands and made a quick "to buy" list. Ordered a full poly bushing kit, outer tie rods, ball joints, inner shift boot, and a shifter pin/bushing kit. Going to wait to see how that affects everything before I replace shocks and springs. Brakes are really good already so I will keep the front's stock but will be converting the rears to Disc for convenience. My buddy has a stock airbox I'm going to repaint and put back in to get rid of that cone filter.
What am I planning on doing with her? Build up the L28? Swap a different motor? I have thought a little about these things but that is a bridge that is many miles down the road. I know I want to lower her an inch or so then paint her white w/ blacked out trim and louvers... But my first priorities are getting everything tightened up, replace some sheet metal, and learn how to to drive it. I have never owned a RWD sports car so I am very excited.
I have had several project cars before. a 69 Buick LeSabre, 65 Ford Galaxie Wagon, an 88 Shelby CSXT that was a monster. But I was never able to finish any of them. Now that I am a few years older, learned some patience, and also now have a job that pays better than minimum wage I can take something like this on. It also helps that my buddy (a big Z nut who has owned and built up several of them before) is going to be building up a 280Z he recently picked up and restoring his series 1 240z so he will be able to show me the tricks of the trade.
Here is a link to my google photo album: https://goo.gl/photos/ak4WHsZKSp1v7WB47
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Call modern motorsport and ask.
Thank you very much for taking the time to post and not answer the question
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I just ordered the modern motorsport S30 rear caliper adapter to replace my drums with 240sx calipers. I have read through many threads and I am confused. Can I use S14 rear calipers and is the parking brake bracket I would need to make for the S13 calipers the same for the S14s?
Also would I still use the Z31 rotor?
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I just ordered the modern motorsport S30 rear caliper adapter to replace my drums with 240sx calipers. I have read through many threads and I am confused. Can I use S14 rear calipers and is the parking brake bracket I would need to make for the S13 calipers the same for the S14s?
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. The parts car I have is green so it is pretty funny as I swap out the red and green body panels. 
here's some progress today. 
S13 rear caliper mod question
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Posted
I am doing the S13rear caliper mod to my '78 S30. I have Raybestos rebuilt calipers, the modern motorsports brackets, the Z31 rotors, and some sweet sweet brakelines from Apex. But my concern is what is supposed to go here (see attached pic) I am thinking this might have something to do with the ebrake? Does anybody have some part numbers for the bracket and bolt that does here?