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Warren

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Posts posted by Warren

  1. Just kinda playing around here, but it's been WAY too long since I've posted anything, and over 10 years since the last SEZ Shootout at Silver Dollar Raceway in Reynolds, GA, I thought we should do a roll call to see who is still around.    

     

    If you've EVER attended any of the  SEZ Shootouts at Silver Dollar Raceway, that were held in the past, chime in with your username, where you drove from, and what car you were running at the event.  If you can remember any details of which years event(s) it was, post those too.

     

    This ought to be fun, nostalgic and a little sad, all at the same time.

     

    I'll Start.

     

    Warren, Marietta, GA, 82 280ZX Turbo, several years

  2. On 4/13/2018 at 6:41 PM, Enzo250gto said:

    Hi Guys, The ignition lock has pins. The door and hatch have wafers. Trying to replace pins and wafers on old locks is false economy. The main part of the cylinder wears over the years with the key sliding in and out. Even if you replace the pins and wafers to match your key, the lock will still have wear in it possibly allowing other keys to open the lock. You would be better off just buying a replacement group of keyed alike cylinders off ebay or your local Locksmith. I have replaced the pin cylinder in the ignition of my 1976 260z with a wafer cylinder to keep all of my locks keyed alike. I have seen keyed alike kits on ebay.

    I spent 30 years as a locksmith and trying to repair worn locks really is a waste of time and good money because they won't last.

    Hope this helps.

    David.

    Amen to that... I've been doing locks for the last 25 or so myself, have rebuild many a lock, but the cylinders wear out LONG before the tumblers do in most cases.  Couldn't have said it better myself...and all I do is automotive and motorcycle locks.

  3. I've done it and it was a total PAIN IN THE ARSE!  Plan on removing the entire dash board, dash support bar, and mucking with alot of vacuum lines, not to mention changing things around like the heater control valve for the manual unit...IF you can find one. It's different and NLA at Nissan.  Do I like the manual system? Yes.  Did I really gain anything other than a more reliable AC system with less vacuum line hassles?  Yes, would I do it again?  Absolutely NOT.  Not much gain for the effort.

     

    Your mileage may vary, but remember, you asked.

     

    Warren

  4. This is the exact reason why there is not and hasn't been a DNI/SEZ event scheduled.  Almost NOBODY shows up. Everybody WANTS to be there, but when it comes down to it, there's always something else to do or needs to be done.  It's all fine and well to WANT to put something together, but it's just not worth the effort when only 6 people show up.  Heck, at this point, we can't even get people to come to an event put on by another club.  

     

    Sorry, I just had to be the one to stir it up (as usual).

     

    Warren

  5. I'm pretty sure that most of you on here have already seen this, but I'm posting it again, with the hopes that it'll answer some of the questions regarding fitting the Mustang tail lights into the rear of a 240/260/280 (First Generation Style) Z.  Keep in mind, this install was done on an 82 280ZXT, which we already know has MUCH larger tail lights than the 240/260/280.  

     

    Also, keep in mind that the leader screen and trailer screen were in response to a few purists who said I'd be messing up "MY" car by doing this body modification.  Don't be offended, just "Get Over It"... It's MY car.

     

    Click for Video

     

    (you might want to right-click and save as, as it's a LARGE (13.9 Meg) file and may not play properly using a single click)

  6. Pallnet,

     

    I read that too and thought "Not a good idea, but who am I to say anything?".  Seems I'm not the only one who was wondering about the JB Weld comment below.

     

    Warren

     

    Pete Sprenger,

     

    This is a quote from post #1 in this thread.



    I picked up a N42 intake manifold and a 240sx throttle body locally from Craigslist. I ported out the opening to match the ebay special 1†spacer I bought (this spacer didn't compensate for the oblong opening on the stock mani, so I filled that in with JB Weld).

     

  7. For some reason, in the last couple of weeks, when trying to access the forums (or the entire site for that matter), I get a "Service Unavailable" message starting exactly at 1:00am EST until at least 1:45am EST. Has happened nightly for the last 3 weeks that I know of.  I have no problem accessing anything on the internet except Hybrid Z at those times.  What's up with that?

  8. Damn, I hate broken picture links, and there are 5 of them in my post above.  Since I can't edit THAT post, I've fixed the links in this one.  I'll take the liberty of re-posting the whole thing, edited as it should be.  Sorry about that folk.  It should read and show as follows.

     

    Keep in mind, mine is in an S130, but the B&M Quicksilver shifter sat a little too high for my liking without making a 2.5" deep tray for it to sit in mounted through the tunnel. I was able to retain and use the stock housing (cover) for it by doing it that way. It's a close fit on top of the tranny (under the tunnel), but it fits without hitting.

     

    Click on these thumbnails to view the pictures in larger format.

    Shifter1.jpg

     

    Shifter2.jpg

     

    Shifter3.jpg

     

    shiftercover.jpg

    It did require a little welding and fabrication to make the tunnel tray, but it fit so well, I'm pleased with the result. I used a Dakota Digital readout embedded in the dash for the shifter position indicator (mounted where the "Check" display was).
    DSC00038.JPG

     

    Thanks for letting me show these with the hopes of helping someone.

     

    Warren

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