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Fairlineguy

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  1. Worth mentioning if you using a aftermarket ecu with wasted spark cop coils . Forget the ecu tach output If you power your coils through the original inductive loop tach wiring (same way the original coil was feed) you tach will work
  2. Quick up date . Jenvey loaned me a set of there 45mm bodies fitted up with Bosch 350cc injectors the same as where fitted in the heritage units. back to the tuner/ rolling road. Car is now running great no more pinging,plugs are burning equal and ign timing advance put back in So the heritage units have gone back and I’m running the normal itb
  3. Well bit of a update swapped out the heritage units for a set of there standard bodies and had the car back on the rolling road Car is now running great pinking has gone ,all plugs are burning the same colour, looks like I’ll be sticking with standard throttle bodies
  4. Suppose I could refit the old manifold and injectors and load the old map and see how it runs it’s just a pain having to rewire the old injectors resistors plus it’s not very sexy . The engines crank has been balanced and has alloy light weight flywheel. I’ve used maxsppeading rods ,electric water pump cop ign i just hoped the throttle bodies would give a sharper response and finish it off Photo of old plenum set up
  5. Here is a photo of the angle of fitment of the injector in the throttle body . these bodies a 48mm with 350cc injector. also can’t help thinking there probably on the large size for 230-50hp I’m thinking it might be worth seeing if I can try a set of standard itb with the injector firing straight, my question also would be what size would be recommended to work well and has anyone else found that they need to pull timing out
  6. As mentioned engine was running great in another car with same set up but a single stock plenum. until the engine through all it’s oil out. Engine has been rebuilt now with kameari pistons .35 above deck. But now has jenvey heritage itb. we removed the spark plugs the centre cyl plugs feed by the centre manifold where clearly running richer. we swapped them to a different cylinders and ran the car again on removal they where showing richer. this lead us to the conclusion that the is a mixture in balance and that only the centre cylinder are running correctly .The ideal of itb that all cylinder a receiving the same fuel. we had the injectors out and tested them on the bench they are all good Chatting with the tuner he’s having to pull about 10deg of timing out to stop the pinging . so where on the old ign map it was a 20 deg it’s now at 10degs I forgot to say the ping is at low rpm open throttle under load at higher rpm the timing has still had to be pulled by a few degs Clearly there is wetting of the wall of the outer manifolds as the angle of the injector fires directly at it I’m guessing that higher rpm there is enough air flow to ensure it mixes and never hits the wall .
  7. The problem Pinging whilst setting up new jenvey heritage itb on rolling road Brief story /Engine spec F54 block with kameari flat top pistons (10-1) Ported F42 head Comp cam 480 duration / 460lift Ms2 ecu (wasted spark /batch firing) Last year I ran the same engine in another car but with a single plenham manifold (stock 280z) I had the car rolling road tuned but the feeling then was that the manifold was restricting its performance. The car mapped and ran well 230hp no pinging issues and ran with a normal amount of ign advance The engine is now installed in my new 240z build the engine has been refreshed with a rebore (kameari 87mm street pistons ) I’ve now fitted jenvey heritage itb to a cannon intake manifold in place of the old single plenum manifold and injectors . On the first rolling road session to set up the jenveys the tuner detected pinging / detonation with his det can sensor attached to the block. He had to pull out up to 10degs of timing .His initial thought was that I should adjust the camshaft timing from 110 to 108. But last week when returning for a second session the pinging /det was still there so we pulled the spark plugs on very close inspection the plugs on 3 and 4 cylinder appeared richer. As it’s on itb you would not expect to see this . So Looking at the manifold the center cylinders intakes are fairly straight where as the outer cylinder manifold tracks are angled inwards. Heritage itb also have there injectors at a angle 15degs i think ? where as most stock itb the injectors fire straight What I’ve now found is that the injectors in the two outer heritage unit when injecting fire there fuel which hits the side wall of the manifold about halfway down the track but the centre unit pretty much fires it’s fuel directly down the manifold missing the side wall Also when removing the manifold the tracks where wetter than I would have expected and looking into the cylinders with a endoscopes the piston crown looks wet with bore wash My tuner says that it’s near on in possible to map it if all cylinders are not equal Come on guys give me your thoughts and experiences plenty of you must be running similar set ups
  8. Got there in the end 220degs my strobe just wasn’t playing ball ended up borrowing a cheap strobe any managed to see the mark.
  9. In need a bit of help guys with basic ign timing for first start up. I’ve recently purchased a 280z as a non runner with a missing ms3 ecu. The car is running coil over plug with x2 Quad spark units and a turbo Distributor fitted with a diyauto tuner 1-12 wheel. I’ve a new ms2 ecu and am having trouble setting the basic start up timing with a strobe. I simply can’t see the pulley mark at cranking speed to adjust the trigger1 setting Anyone have a similar set up and know a rough setting that might let me get it started so I can set up with strobe Any thoughts
  10. I’m in the uk and have just purchased a recently imported 280z and would like to contact the previous owner who I believe was David Bettis from San Mateo CA?? The reason being is that the car has been modified and appears to have been running Megasquirt . (the car is missing the ecu )and I’d like to find out the spec to order a replacement . Any leads/ info please pm me or email. barberneil@ymail.com
  11. Keen to keep my original instruments with the rb25det I've just installed a TachMatch TM-02-I-Drive unit. it works a treat using the signal output from pin 7 of the ecu
  12. Having messaged the guys at tach match and received the following reply have decided to go with one of there units. Indeed you do have a current driven tachometer. The TachMatch TM-02-I-Drive unit will operate your stock tachometer. My understanding is that the RB25 has a tach output signal on pin 7, which is an open-collector output. Being open-collector, it needs a pull-up resistor to get the signal operative. I would recommend a 1.3k ohm pull-up resistor for use with the TachMatch. If you wish, I could install one inside the unit for you at no extra charge. I'm not sure about the maximum sink current on the RB25 pins, I've seen on the internet that folks use 1k resistors sometimes, so I'm presuming that this slightly higher value (1.3k) should be ok, it loads the pin less than 1k. I can't find the actual spec anywhere for your ECU.
  13. Any one using a tach adaptor or step up resistor to get there original Rev countre to Work with a ecu output? (RB25det s2 ) Read numerous treads some say they have been able to get it to work others haven't As I would prefer not to swop out the original unit.
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