Ken Smith
-
Posts
47 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Posts posted by Ken Smith
-
-
Thanks but I don't see any speakers in the posted diagram. Or maybe my eyes are bad and can't see them....LOL
-
I have a 1978 Datsun 280Z radio but no wiring diagram. Can anyone decode the wiring colors for me please?
I mainly need to know left or right speaker wires. I have white and white/black wireed together and then black and black/red wired together. Pretty sure they are the speakers but
are they left and right or front and back? The radio is a Hitachi KMS-2411Z and has the stereo button. So I am guessing provision for left and right?
Any help is appreciated. It's not installed so just getting it figured out. Thanks
-
16 hours ago, grannyknot said:
Exactly!
Anyone putting aftermarket additives in their oil should read this article. I only learned this myself last year so I'm not trying to pass myself off as an expert.
2 good quotes,
"Why can’t the average racer simply purchase a ZDP supplement and significantly improve the cam and lifter durability of his oil? The primary reason is that the ZDP molecule is a complex chemical in which a metallic substance has been combined with a hydrocarbon to make the metallic material soluble in oil, and dissolving the ZDP into the oil is the key to maximizing ZDP performance. "
"The safest way to ensure maximum camshaft and lifter protection is to purchase engine oils specifically compounded for your application. It’s always best to let an experienced oil formulator and blender put your oil together for you "
Not trying to start the oil wars again
The problem is finding the correct oil since all newer oils are formulated differently than back in the 70s. This is one reason I went with conventional oil and additives. There are race oils and diesel oils that have ZDDP but are formulated for their specific application. Our older motors with flat tappet cams and high miles may not work well with these newer oils. Sometimes I think there is just too much to choose from and a lot of BS out there.
-
I'm going to try the Rislone additive. Here is what they said after I sent an email requesting information on their additive:
Hi Ken,
Thank you for reaching out to Rislone Technical Support with your interest in the P/N 4405 Rislone Engine Oil Supplement with Zinc Treatment and the amount of Zinc in the bottle. The amount that we put in is prioritized information, we can share what the PPM’s will be when used per our dosage guidelines. Please see the below.
INSTRUCTIONS / DOSAGE NOTE: Do not use as an engine break in additive. Rislone Engine Oil Supplement with Zinc Treatment contains the correct amount of ZDDP and other additives important to protecting your engine for everyday use. For best protection use with every oil change. Can be used during oil change, or added in-between oil changes. Do not overfill. GASOLINE ENGINES (Cars & Light Trucks) 1996 and older – Add one bottle to engine crankcase. 1997 to 2004 – Add approximately ½ bottle (5.5 ounces) to engine. DIESEL ENGINES (Light, Medium & Heavy-Duty) 2006 and older – Add one bottle to engine crankcase for every 5 quarts of oil capacity. OTHER APPLICATIONS For 4-stroke marine & motorcycles (dry clutch only), agricultural, industrial and racing applications use 2 ounces for every quart of capacity. TYPICAL TEST RESULTS INDICATE: GASOLINE ENGINES With typical SN rated oil at a 7% dosage rate expect levels to be raised to a total of: Zn Zinc 1700 - 1800 ppm P Phosphorous 1500 - 1600 ppm
For your convenience, the link to the product on our website is below. It will direct you to the product overview(s), as well as directions for using this product, FAQ, technical information, and the SDS (Safety Data Sheet).
https://rislone.com/product/3x-concentrated-engine-oil-supplement-with-zinc-treatment/
-
Do not buy STP oil treatment for the purpose of Zinc or ZDDP additive. I made this mistake after reading the 15oz bottle stating it's first ingredient is Zinc.
I later found out from STP there is only 5ppm of ZDDP in it. After several emails back and forth asking why the first ingredient states ZDDP they said they
have to warn it contains some for those people with newer cars. Very deceiving, why would you need additive for a newer car? Anyway, just a warning there
is pretty much NO Zinc in it for those looking to increase ZDDP for their older cars requiring it. They advised me there is only 5 parts per million ZDDP (5ppm)
-
I'm doing the factory a/c install. I think the aftermarket may be better but I don't want to deal with retro-fit under dash when you can use what was designed to fit.
-
I purchased an A1-Cardone 280ZX Turbo dizzy from RA. Assembly quality was not all that great. Some clearance issues between trigger wheel and CAS.
However, it's probably as good as any other reman dizzy. In other words. You receive it. Check everything for proper clearances ( air gap ) and lubrication. Re-manufacturers are infamous for insufficient lubes on things like centrifugal advance mechanisms and vacuum advance plates. Juts my experience.
I often take reman alternators apart and re-pack the shielded end bearing. Seldom do they have sufficient grease. In fact, ANY shielded pre-packed bearing, I always check these days. .
I would actually like to find someone to rebuild mine if possible. Jeff at Advanced Distributor will rebuild it and bench it to dial it in with his equipment but he charges $200 and up. It also takes 4 to 6 weeks.
-
Pretty cheap on rockauto.com. Hard to beat, that's the route I went.
I have the Calif single pick up which seem to run a little higher. I have heard A-1 CARDONE does a poor job of rebuilding them.
-
I have a 1975 280Z California version with single pick up distributor. I am thinking it needs to be rebuilt soon.
Any recommendations on who to send it to or should I just buy a replacement? It's the original dizzy. Thanks....
-
Very nice. There are only 2 issues I see, one is the price seems a little high and two the screen is small and while driving you will have a very difficult time utilizing the touch screen. It's hard enough with a double din touch screen much less one half the size. Good luck though.
-
Hello Ken, I have mounted the ZX mirrors on my 75 with just a few challenges. Seems I used the original ZX brackets (the ones inside the doors) in reverse. Left on right, right on left. I had to remove a little material to get them to sit just right. I just mounted the RH side and matched the LH side to it as far as location.
I have yet to connect the remote control as I am pending a console replacement. I had to buy 2 sets to get all them both to work correctly electrically.
Assuming you have the doors apart, nothing that can not be done in an afternoon.
Thanks, and yes the doors are gutted ready for paint. Why did you reverse the inner mounting brackets? I know there is a square reinforcement in the way but it seems like the bracket will fit into it. I'll have to double check. I am not going to use the power option since I am not wired for power.
-
Have you tried pulling up on the lock while trying to open the door? My 75 locks itself due to minor spring corrosion and sometimes the lock rod doesn't return to the unlock position all the way up.
-
Any pics of an aftermarket drier with the original hard lines and high pressure switch? Also, where you got the drier or make model info. I hate to buy one and have to return it if someone know what will work.
-
nobody???
-
Attached is a road test from the June 1975 issue of Car and Driver.
Nice article.....thanks for sharing.
-
I put the bare heater box back in last night - posted new pics.
I'll likely start reassembling the heater tonight. If there is anything specific you would like to see speak now or forever hold your peace...
I'll take more pics but it always seems like no matter how many pics I take there is one angle I didn't get...
I just need pics of everything under the dash so when I take mine apart to add factory a/c I will know how everything is routed and not guess. I have seen diagrams or drawings but they never look like the real thing. I know it's hard to take pics while working, I try to when I do installs but sometimes get too busy and forget. lol
Anything is way better than nothing....Thanks
-
DatsunZ_Vintage_Air_1000.pdf Failed - No file
I don't have Vintage Air, I am doing factory style air using original parts from a 1975 280Z.
-
Thanks! I ended up not needing so much build-up once I figured out how to adjust the vacuum motor (dashpot) to pull the door all the way closed, so I've now removed some of it. I used this foam from McMaster-Carr:
https://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/122/3613/=15fb1mc
It's ultra compressible and the adhesive has a really wide temperature range, and it seems to be sticking very well so far. I was worried if the foam was too stiff that it might impede the door's ability to close fully. This seems to be working really well. I used the 1/16" thickness for the door sealing part and 3/16" for in between units.
This is the as-delivered factory A/C, btw.
I'll just keep dropping more pics in as I reassemble things.
Great.....nice to see as my 75 has all the early 75 a/c components pulled from another 75 car so they should work. I doubt there was any difference between my 75 and your 78 a/c system.
-
I've created an album and will just start dropping pics in there as I progress...
https://goo.gl/photos/YBMYmWNg5rtxZCWy8
Let me know if there is something specific that you would like a pic of...
Nice job with the foam to keep air from escaping. I didn't think of that. I was looking more toward pics of both heat and air installed without dash so I could see how everything is arranged. Not looking forward to removing the dash and doing this. Did you have A/C to start with or just adding it like me? Great pic though...
-
I have a 280Z and converting the door mirror(s) to 280ZX style. Anyone do this conversion and any issues mounting them? Did you use the ZX mounting brackets and if not what did you use? Thanks........
-
You're in luck - sort of...
I've currently got my dash pulled on my '78, but I've also pulled the heater box but not the A/C portion. If you don't mind waiting for a bit I can get some pics for you. Or if you need something specific maybe I can get it now...
Not in a big hurry but maybe within a month? Thanks.......
-
Did you check FSM?
Yes
-
I am going to add A/C (factory style) to my 75 280Z that does not have A/C. Does anyone have pics of everything with just the dash removed? I tried to search dash removal and A/C but no help. Thanks......
-
I managed to find a supplier in Canada that had stock on the correct 4 seasons receiver/drier( #33286 ) for 75 and 76 280Z's. These have the correct positioning of the connections as in your pictures. Price was dirt cheap as well. I'll have to look through my receipts and will post the link a bit later. These are normally very hard to find. The later styles are far more plentiful
Edit: It was from a company called " The Wrench Monkey ". They still show them in stock for only $63.29 CDN. I'd send them an E-mail to confirm stock levels.
https://www.thewrenchmonkey.ca/products/auto-parts/four-seasons/33286/
Well, I sent an email and here is their response as I suspected:
Hi Ken,
Unfortunately, we are currently not showing stock on this item. We contacted the manufacturer and they do not have stock on this particular part number and cannot give us an ETA at this time.Thank youSincerely,The Wrench Monkey Team
1978 280Z radio help
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Posted · Edited by Ken Smith
update
The radio has the stereo button and the extra speaker wires VS the prior Hitachi which is mono with the single white and white/black speaker wire. I believe the 77-78 had the stereo button with two sets of speaker wires and the early stereo just the one. I wonder if the stereo was an upgrade or ??? since it isn't shown in the diagrams. I had a 75 radio which only had the white and white/black wires. Very interesting......