jumblies

If you are keeping any stock senders, there is data on zcar.com and here under electrical. I just switched to Autometer Phantom 2 5/8 elec Fuel, Temp, Volt. The electric water temp was a Huge PITA. I might have gone with mechanical in retrospect, but I'm not fond of cap tubing in the cabin. If you need specifics, let me know.

72... 9/71 ZG. It hates me, and I hate it right back.

thank you all for your help, my water temperature saga is coming to a close. I ordered the auto meter M-16 x 1.5 adapter, which got me down a size but is intended for a water temperature gauge that's mechanical. This is for a capillary tube set up. I ran in circles for a few days trying to adapt this mechanical pressure fitting to a electric sender that auto meter supplies with the gauge. Unable to find anything that would fit that size, and about to capitulate and drill a hole in the thermostat housing, I stopped by Napa, and they had a pressure fitting that was double end threaded.I simply chopped off one threaded end, drilled and tapped the rest of the pressure fitting to 1/8 size and screwed that into the auto meter adapter. so far no leaks, fits well, and looks okay. I'm keeping my fingers crossed. I don't understand why this is so difficult, because it seems like going from metrics to aftermarket gauges would be a common event. Most people looked at me and scratched their heads.

Thank you both for your fast answers. It would appear to require an M16 x 1.5 to Autometer sender adapter as the most expeditious fix for the problem. This data came from searching the archives of other datsun boards, but the autometer web site contradicts this: http://hp.autometer.com/techtips/faq_tech_writeups/metric_adapters.html This is for the electric autometer 2 5/8 phantom conversion. I'm going out to pull the actual sender in the car to size it now. Will report back. This is the sole sender on a L24 thermostat housing I'm trying to replace. 72 240z. And yes, that is the correct phantom gauge. http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugedetail.aspx?gid=2629&sid=7 thanks Edit: I pulled the unit from the car and it's identical to one I have on the bench so I'll figure out what the thread is and post back for reference. Now I have to tackle the L28 oil pressure outlet, which has been written about before, so it shouldn't be too tough. It appears for oil it requires the BSPT -> NPT adapter and stock water sensor is definitely Mxx x 1.5 but I don't have a size gauge handy now so it'll either be M16 or M14 and strangely, I have neither bolts nor nuts in those sizes.... seems like every other size tho.

I'm switching over to autometer phantom guages and currently have the Temp wired to stock sender. When cold the phantom guage reads about 160F so I'd rather use the included autometer sender, than fool around with calibration of the sender with resistors. Does anyone recall the thread sizes or part number of the adapter for the autometer sender to fit into the T stat housing? Thanks.

To ressurect this thread. Has anyone ever tried to remove these Tar based deadeners? I presume the Dry Ice method would be best?

... and I don't mean intelligent life in the universe.

Seems like we're working contemporaneously. I installed fuel and Volt today. It's a temp installation as the whole dash is due for explant next week for cover graft and wiring modification, heater core, and De-griming of the no-man's land under the dash. Hard to imagine my grin when my new Phantom Gas gauge went all the way to Full today. This car hasn't had a gas gauge read full since 1974. I'm impressed with the engineering in the old gauges. Sure they failed, but I've exceeded my design capacity and had a few failures over the years, too.

Did you go with Phantom or Street Comp variety? Or perhaps something with through the dial lighting? I'd be interested to see pics when you get them set in the housings.

Pregunta... why jegs v. summit? Cheaper w/o handling charge?

whatcha doin for seat belts?

Thanks for the suggestions. I am still recovering from PSPD (post spindle pin disorder) and can't yet make any decisions about anything on the car without fits of profanity.

Chris, did you get an answer to the stock springs question. I have the same issue and am curious about reusing stock springs. I don't want to drop the car much but am afraid 30 y.o springs would have poor rate for handing.

Thanks, I'll search and see what people have done. I hadn't considered the L24 rebuild seriously, but maybe with it rebuilt and a cam it would be a zinger.

I have a 71 Z with the original L24/E88 enigine in need of rebuild. I have a few parts, none of which seem to be optimal for a rebuild. Does anyone have any ideas for combos for the rebuild? The motor in the car is OE L24/E88. I have a near complete N42 block and head and a spare but bare P79 head (without springs, rockers, etc). My current thoughts are: 1) rebuilding the stock 2) rebuild N42 block but exchange the dished pistons for flattops and use the E88 head 3) rebuild the N42 engine with P79 head and flattops. (this is the least palatable because of the cost) The car is not a racer, just a hobby. Cost is a factor, but I'd like to balance cost and performance. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Hey everyone, I'm trying to figure out whether the MSA plug wires are too short or whether the oil pump sprocket is keyed wrong, throwing the the distributor out of normal position. The car is a 240z with original L24 engine. I recently added a 280zx EI distributor to it with good results. I ordered the 280zx plug wires from MSA (Taylor branded) and installed them. I'm finding #6 plug wire barely reaches and when placed in looms, it has tension on it, which will be bad in the long run. . Now, this tune up made me adjust the timing to see where it was, and for best timing (by ear, don't have a light) the bolt hole doesn't line up for the timing adjustment on the base of the distributor. The Number 1 spot on the distributor is pointed to the front of the engine and #6 is pretty much as far away from cyl 6 as possible. Is this how everyone's is pointed? I just wanted a little input as to whether the wires are too short, and is this a common problem, or whether the dist shaft/oil pump shaft is out of whack. I suspect the latter, though I don't know if it would make much of a difference in the wire length problem. I'll take some pics and post them when I get a chance.

I am in winston and could make a trip out to pick one up. I'll call you. Thanks for the offer!

Dang, I was working in scottsdale a year and a half ago. Too bad I didn't have the car then. I found a guy in town that can replace it with laminated glass for under $100, cut to fit. Really, about the same price as lexan without all the scratching. I've ordered a seal and will have them cut it and fit it into the hatchback, which is sitting on the floor in the garage. Thanks for your input.

North Carolina, and you?

Hi, I have a 70 240Z project car and it's been in storage for, oh, lets say, 15 years. The back window was broken out and I'm having a devil of a time finding another. The regional scrap yards don't have any intact for the Z, and I'm thinking that lexan is going to be forced on me. My understanding is that the lexan req'd for competition offers no weight savings over the stock glass, but this is a little hard to believe. The defroster part matter, as it's a play car, not a daily driver. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Specifically, where to get old hatch glass or how people have gone about using lexan. Thanks