primaz
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Posts posted by primaz
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On 11/11/2020 at 10:14 PM, 280Z-LS3 said:
Looking at Silvermine's EPS kit. It uses an ATV electric motor from what I gather. That is not necessarily a bad thing, just not OEM proven reliability. Which off shelf solution do you suggest?
My knowledge on EPS stuff is limited though eager learn. Looks like the popular OEM swap units, either those that operate in fail safe mode or need a 3rd party controller, are too short thus only good for hybrid adaptation into columns.
I installed the Silvermines EPS kit with their GPS speed sensor setup on my wife's 240Z and I am really impressed with it! It works great, it is clean & looks like it was made for the car as it is hard to know it has been modified at all (I had to angle the camera up so you can see the electric PS, otherwise you would never see it in the two pictures below), and the car drives like a new car. You can parallel park the Z with one hand! and the response is very nice at higher speeds with the GPS sensor enabling it to track like any modern car, very smooth at any speed and obviously quicker when parking but almost too good as I am OG and now her car drives like a new Z car. I do not have any regrets for that car and do highly recommend it. This car has custom kick panels with separate tweeters and mid-bass speakers so we mounted the GPS up high around the firewall out of sight but still accessible if needed. Only thing was not clear is that they did not provide a install manual but after talking to them their pictures online show all of the connections, etc. labeled and highlighted, so their manual is just looking at the pictures online;; it was easy as it was well engineered so no mods needed at all. It goes in fast but it took a little time to find the place to mount the GPS sensor module.
On my other mild 240Z with a 3.0 liter I am going with the Apex shorter steering arms as I just want to see how well I can go with stock as I personally like the more manual feel, but the Silverline EPS is a cool setup.
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Really every Z will be slightly different depending on the suspension setup etc. Really the best way is to go a good tuner shop or tire/wheel company with your car as they will have the wheel tool to measure what is the maximum offset to fit the largest tire and wheel for your car especially since you have flares on the car. As an example on one of my 240Z's that is stock body but rolled fender lips & BC Racing coil overs, we are running 16 x 8" with +13 with a 5" backspace and the car is running 245 wide tires on all four corners. When you flare a car and done suspension mods you should easily be able to much wider than a 245 size tire. I have seen some people max out a 240Z with no flares and even get 275 in the rear. Thus with flares you should have cut out enough of the stock body to go way wider than limitations of stock body Z.
Do not skimp on the cost of the wheels is what I recommend and thus go with a 3 piece wheel that you like the design and have a shop measure it for you to find the ideal offset, etc. and stuff the most tire and wheel you can. You can also rent that tool for around $50 to $75 dollars with a deposit of a few hundred dollars or so and measure it yourself. You will never find someone with the exact same setup as you, etc. so l recommend to do it right and measure it then buy... Also look at Tire Rack to see what is the available tires for that rim size as that might influence you to go to a different diameter wheel and tire. 16" sizes are getting harder compared to 17" and larger as newer cars dont use 16" anymore
but there are an ok selection with 16" but ultra low profiles are harder to find. I find it laughable that people cut up a 240Z with flares only to put the same size tires I did with a stock body. I am all for flares but to me you should be gaining with wider tires not just doing it for looks...
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On 10/29/2020 at 11:43 AM, Derek said:
What it takes to get there is not going to answered here most likely because it is a list that is long. The absolute best advice I would give you is to contact Datsunspirit. Pay the price they quote and you will get what you want. It will be expensive. Plus they work directly with Jenvey.
This is going to sound harsh but it is reality. If you are asking here then you probably don't have the skill set ( I don't) to actually leverage the different opinions that may be presented and actually build this type of motor. Getting to 9K reliably is a really heavy lift in my opinion. Getting to 7000 is easy. That that extra 2000 is where the real talent comes in.
I'm going to rephrase your question for you:
Question for those that have motors that go to 9000 RPM's. What did it cost:)
I agree 100%, Datsun Spirit in my opinion if the best Datsun L series engine builder and I would recommend them over Rebello. Eji take so much pride in his work from his more mild affordable engines to his more expensive 9000+ RPM engines. There is no cheap way out but remember a quality blueprinted engine from Eji will be reliable and well worth the investment. There is skill in a quality engine builder so I recommend to just go with a proven builder like Eji. If you want an engine at that level expect to pay $17K or more for his stage 5 engine but if you look at any modern performance car like a BMW, Porsche, etc. you can expect to pay the same for a new factory engine so for a Datsun L series you can get a incredible powerful, reliable engine that will last longer than those new modern engines and have low maintenance as L series engines are so easy to service compared to any modern sport car engine.
If that price is out of your budget then get his Stage 4 for around $12K and that is a great engine that will rev to 8000 comfortably and put down 300 HP at the rear wheels. Even his stage 3 will rev nicely and put down 240 HP at the rear wheels for only around $6,800 and is a great setup for your ITB's if your budget will not allow for a Stage 4 or 5.
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I would call and email them as they are generally pretty responsive and do have spare parts..
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16 hours ago, Twisted46 said:
Have you looked at APEX? That is where my money would go if I was going to drop that kind of money on a complete package.
I think their new "Track Attack" front and rear suspension is the way to go if money is not an issue. I am planning getting that for my extreme 240Z build.
https://www.apexengineered.com/store/p26/TRACK_ATTACK_-_Complete_Front_And_Rear_Kit.html
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On 1/17/2020 at 5:41 PM, Ean said:
finally got to the point in my build where i'd like to get the car stripped and primered, and set of SubtleZ fenders installed.
Anyone have a recommendation for a shop somewhere around the san jose area? Most of the shops around here are either strictly collision repair or seem to specialize in the higher dollar restorations...any recommendations would be appreciated.
thanks,
Ean
Yes, I highly recommend Market Auto in San Jose, CA ask for Dave They are at 140 San Jose Ave, San Jose, CA 408 292-9888 They have done two of my 240z's Here is the one I finished recently for my wife. The car was stripped to bare metal, all rust repaired, seam sealed, undercarriage painted with POR-15, rear valance/fender seams weled, new rear inner fender wells, painted with Lambo Merci-lago three stage orange, 911 Porsche mirrors.
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Also as far as brands I would highly recommend CCW they make quality, reasonably priced custom off set 3 piece wheels and are well respected in racing and performance street users...
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On 8/4/2020 at 8:36 PM, Howsurcargo said:
Newbie here doing his first post to this group. I am looking for 17", light weight, 3 piece wheel options. I have no idea what today's market offers. I once had a cool set of Giotti 15x10 3 piece wheels 35 years ago. I like the period look of the Panasports. I am considering 17x10's with a 275x40x17 for the rear and 17x8 with a 245x40 or 235x40 for the front. Or thereabouts. I would like to keep the wheel weight in the 17 lb or 18 lb range if possible. I do not want 24 lb wheels. Any suggestions for wheel manufactures would be welcome. TYIA
Chris
One thing to consider is that now most of the best tires are moving to 18" or 19" so when you go with a 16" or 17" you better look at the tire options and really make sure you want to stay with that diameter especially if it is a street car as the quality of tires can be very limited. I have two 240z's with no flared bodies with custom off sets and they are running 16x8.5 with 245 on all four tires but there are only a couple of decent tires and the prices is a little high. My more aggressive street 240Z has monster 345 and 285 15" but now I can not get tires for that size so I am going to go with a 19". One of the best street tires is the Michelin Pilot Super Sport and they only make one size in 17" but in 18" and 19" there are a great array of sizes, https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Michelin&tireModel=Pilot+Super+Sport&partnum=43YR9PSSXLV3&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes
I would first look at the tire options very carefully before you decide on the rim size...
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I really think you are upgrading in the wrong order. The front brakes end up being 70-80% of what stops your Z car. I would say that Techno Toys has a great reputation on building good products but for the money I think that is a waste. For around the same cost I would recommend the Arizona Z car 12.5 vented Wilwoood kit for the front for $795 and use the $129 Master (Which is a Datsun stock MC used in later model Z's) they sell that works well with the stock drums or if you decide later to upgrade the rears to disc brakes. Why spend what it costs to get really good front brakes? You are not going to feel any real improvement until you upgrade the front brakes. http://www.arizonazcar.com/brake.html I put this setup on my wife's 240Z and it stops great and the pedal feel is very nice.
I would do the front brakes first and if you had $350 more in your budget I would bump the Arizona Z car front up to a 6 piston caliber and if you have another $200 I would upgrade the rotors to 13"; I would do those upgrade before even contemplating rear disc upgrades as the fronts are where it matters period.
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On 5/18/2020 at 1:48 PM, SlippyD said:
I am considering running this rear end conversion in my 280z : https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/280z/complete-r200-short-nose-r230-rear-end-conversion-z-car
I talked to the helpful team over there, and it seems as though my best option is to run with a rear subframe from a Q45 from 1996 or earlier... But I can't seem to find one online anywhere, and the junk yards just don't seem to have any of them sitting around.
Anybody know where I can track one down?First why are you wanting that rear end? I am assuming you want to put big horsepower, is that right? If so for less money than the Techno Toy I would recommend, the Apex rear end kit as it can accept a For 8.8 IRS, R200 from your Q45 as well as R32 Skyline & 300ZX, or R230 300ZX TT I believe it is a better design as it eliminates mustache bar & dog leggs, and provides more adjust camber, toe, roll center, caster, etc. If you are going big power this would be a better kit and then go with a Ford 8.8 IRS which you can get cheap on Ebay; the 8.8 IRS is better than the Q45 diff https://www.apexengineered.com/store/p62/Rear_Suspension_Kit.html
If you have more money you can go ultimate rear suspension with their https://www.apexengineered.com/store/p24/TRACK_ATTACK_-_Complete_Rear_Kit.html that is a better design than trying to make the stock design better as it converts to a modern double A arm dynamic, like an Indy or formula one car! and can use so many IRS diffs that can handle way more power than a Q45 diff
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I used this setup from Arizona Z car for one of our 240Z' and found it to be a great street and mild racing use
http://www.arizonazcar.com/brake.html
I also bought the new master they recommended and left the rears with the stock drum brakes and the setup works great.
There are also good kits from Techno Toys and Silverline so why re-invent the wheel when those are proven to be ready to bolt in and fit without issues. Also unless you are racing or have really big horsepower you really do not need disc brakes in the rear...
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On my newly finished 71' 240z that is running a Datsun Spirit 2.8 stage II, headers, and rebuilt SU's, the car was not easy to start with the more aggressive cam. I had a previous engine in another 240Z which was tripple Minuki's and I used a Nissan gear reduction starter and that made a big difference in starting the car especially in cold weather. I did some searching around online to see what was available and tried the one from Classic Car Performance know for making performance starters for British cars https://www.classiccarperformance.com/products/datsun-240z-260z-280z-high-torque-starter which uses 5 roller bearings, and it has made a huge difference in being able to start the car easily in cold weather. From my experience the more noticeable advantages of a quality gear reduction starters are when the car is either running a performance cam or triple carbs. The car starts on the first try which never happened before and with the aggressive cam it a person whom is not familiar with a choke and Z cars would easily flood the engine but now that seems to be a thing of the past.
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23 hours ago, ZigzagZ said:
Yeah... the door may be a bit worrisome. It needs a decent shove to get it to shut completely. The chrome on the door window gets pretty snug with the chrome on the side window. By pinched to the door frame, I mean it will sometimes not sit flush at the top unless closed a certain way, if that makes sense. As if the door is mounted just slightly too high. The current owner claims the PO removed the door to repaint it and didn't assemble it correctly.
I usually check the typical areas for rust. The rear rockers had some bubbled up areas but no holes. Hatch channels looked great and nothing under the battery tray. The only active rust I spotted was between the passenger foot well and firewall area where I could pick off flakes of rust. What worries me is what else may be underlying that I couldn't catch. I was hesitant about the car already but it seems clear I would be better off finding a better one unless I could significantly drive the price down. I appreciate the info.
If you are interested in a 240z with no rust, R200, 280Z engine, 5 speed, very good mechanically that just needs paint, I would change interior color as it is white, I know of one that I believe he would sell it for around $3500 more than that rusty 280Z, let me know. PM me I tried to send you a message but the site is having some issues so I could not get to your profile for some reason?
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19 hours ago, ZigzagZ said:
Thanks for the pics and message. Did you use the Z Car Depo style sheetmetal or did you have a shop custom fab the metal? I may do just what you did and look into having a shop upgrade it for higher performance.
The only thing I'm concerned about is the drivers side frame rail is rusted as in my pics and the drivers side door just barely not aligning. It can be tough to close and the top of the window gets pinched to the door frame, presumably from the frame causing the body to bend in a bit.
My car did not have rust or issues with the stock rails. I used Dando's Automotive that specializes on Z cars; they have two ways of doing their custom frame rails. My Red 240Z used their "U" shaped steel rails where they are boxed by welding them both under and inside the car. Now most of the cars they do they use an already boxed rail and just weld that on the bottom of the car which cuts the amount of labor a lot.
As others have said it appears your car can be repaired but it does sound scary to me that you said, "window gets pinched to the door frame"? On Z cars until you bead blast the undercarriage and the rest of the body you will never know where all the rust may reside. I would really recommend you check the more common areas of rust to see if you can tell the conditions of those areas to decide if the cost is good. The areas I typically see is the rear rockers before the rear wheels, the rear hatch (when you open the hatch look carefully at the channels and seams), bottom of the front fenders where often the drain plugs get junk preventing water from escaping. Z cars are uni-body so no frame but they can be repaired it is just how extensive the bodywork is required. If you feel the car is a good buy, fix the stock rails first and ideally if you are ready to do the entire bodywork then bead blast the entire car and see what areas might have had hidden rust. Then fix those areas and if you can afford it put the rails I did as that is great for performance and safety.
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It should not be that expensive to have a good body shop install those Z car depo type Sheetmetal but another option while more expensive it better if you build the car for more high performance. I frame railed my 240z which provides a visual that looks like the stock look but provide incredible strength and even more than many roll bars. A good body shop or repair shop that can weld could do this somewhere between $1500 to $2500? FYI, besides the stiffness this saved my life and prevented my 240z from being totaled; I got rear ended by a car while stopped in traffic and the unibody was undamaged even with a hit from the rear from a Prius going 50 mph! Without those rails the car would have been totaled for sure.
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I used the Gorilla "The System" all lugs were lock set and then purchased their more secure X2 wheel locks to use one for each wheel. That provides two keys but each wheel has two different locks. The X2 has two stage spinning systems to make it harder for a theif. https://www.gorilla-auto.com/the-system https://www.gorilla-auto.com/x2-wheel-locks https://www.gorilla-auto.com/graphics2016/GorillaCatalog2016_Page_35.jpg -
I would recommend to get a 1975 or older Z as then you will be smog exempt....
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On 10/9/2019 at 7:05 AM, SHTROD21 said:
Hello, I am looking for advice in doing a Chevy 350 engine swap in my 1971 Datsun 240z. First, I would like to know if there is a conversion kit out there for purchase somewhere. Second, what kind of engine mounts work best for this kind of swap? Also, if anyone can shed any light on information they wish they knew getting into this I would really appreciate it. Thank you in advance for your help!
You might want to give more information about your budget and what you would like as far as suspension, etc. as there are many ways to go about this depending on the goal of your car and your budget. As an example if you plan on doing a lot of suspension upgrades you might consider the many pathways you can go at Apex, from improving the stock design, to upgrading to an 8.8 IRS, to a full custom suspension, etc. They also have a cool crossmember that can be ordered for stock straight 6, a RB Skyline, or a LS or V8, which correct the suspension setup when you lower the car and comes with motor mounts specific to your application.
https://www.apexengineered.com/store/p7/Front_Tubular_Crossmember.html
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Yes an LS is more expensive but you can find often a low mileage good LS with transmission and everything on it for around $5K. The old school V8' are not worth much as most people do not want them and are going to a modern LS fuel injected V8. If cost is an issue sure go with the old school as you can often get a old school 350 for next to nothing but the car no matter how nice will NOT resale for anywhere close to an LS Z nor be as desirable.
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On 10/9/2019 at 7:05 AM, SHTROD21 said:
Hello, I am looking for advice in doing a Chevy 350 engine swap in my 1971 Datsun 240z. First, I would like to know if there is a conversion kit out there for purchase somewhere. Second, what kind of engine mounts work best for this kind of swap? Also, if anyone can shed any light on information they wish they knew getting into this I would really appreciate it. Thank you in advance for your help!
One recommendation is to NOT install an old school 350 but rather an GM LS1 or newer V8. They are much lighter, and people want an LS NOT a 350 and a Z car with a 350 will NOT resell for that much as the majority of the people want an LS. The LS is so reliable, light, powerful and the way to go for a V8 in a Z car...
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Z car Front, Toe: 1/16” to 3/32” in, Camber: 0 to 1 negative with 1 being preferred.Caster: 4 to 6 postive. The actual number between 4 and 6 is not important, only that both sides are the same. Rear Toe: 1/16” in Camber: 0 to 1 negative with 1 being preferred.
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Apex Engineered already has engineered not only a front crossmember and front and rear A-arms if you want to upgrade the stock design but they also have both a front and complete front and rear suspension swap that is bolt in. No need to be experimental if you want to go extreme as they already worked out the design and executed in a high quality with a reasonable price given the design and components...
https://www.apexengineered.com/store/p25/Track_Attack-_Complete_Front_Suspension_Conversion.html
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https://www.apexengineered.com/store/p26/Complete_Track_Attack_Kit.html
Our team at Apex Engineered has once again revolutionized the suspension game for the S30 Chassis.
Over a year in development we have made the worlds first BOLT IN upper and lower control arm conversion a 8.8 rear end conversion. Our kit eliminates the rear mustache bar, and dog legs and converts it to a rear subframe that significantly strengthens the rear structure on the chassis. We also converted the McPherson strut to a modern double A arm dynamic. This lets you adjust roll center, anti-squat, camber, caster, toe and many others. With this design you can fit a lot more tire than with the standard McPherson strut
Comes with Viking dual adjustable coil overs with Hypercoil Springs
Comes with Axle Shafts (capable of 1200 Ft/Lbs of Torque!)
Save unsprung weight!
Key Features:
- Improve roll center!
- Alter anti-dive and anti-squat!
- Widen track width
- Alter camber
- Alter toe
- Lightweight construction!
- Strong design!
- Tough powder coated finish!
- Customize for your needs!
Included:
- Front crossmember
- Tension arm braces
- Billet crossmember bushing top clamp
- Upper and lower control arm
- Upper control arm adapter bracket
- Upper control arm adapter strut insert
- Quick Steering Knuckles
- Tie rods (Standard or Low Profile)
- Billet top coilover mount
- Rear subframe
- Upper and lower control arm
- Uprights (hub mounts)
- Rear strut brace
- Rear billet rocker
- Rear Billet brace
- Axle Shafts (capable of 1200 Ft/Lbs of Torque!)
- Viking Dual Adjustable shock
- Hypercoil Spring
To source:
- Ford 8.8 IRS Differential (2007-2010)
- Ford 8.8 IRS Inner Axle (2007-2010)
- Nissan 300zx Twin Turbo Outer Axle (1990-1996)
- Nissan 300zx Twin Turbo Rear Wheel Bearing Assembly (1990-1996)
This system does not let the limitations of the car dictate the upgrade and instead looks at how their vision of an ideal suspension can be installed. This is definitely a high end option but for big horsepower Z cars and they offer it for Datsun 6, RB Skyline, and V8's.
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I am sure this has been discussed and I tried to do a search but the HybridZ site had two server issues when I tried to do a search? & no results so,
Here are a couple of options:
http://www.arizonazcar.com/brake.html
https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/240z/300mm-front-big-brake-kit-240z
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Electric power steering, use complete donor column?
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Posted
That was where we installed in her car, here is a picture from their website. In person you really have to look from below to really see the motor. When you sit in the car you never see the motor and it is not in the way at all. I think the picture makes you think it is low but, you really cannot see it easily as I had to crouch down put the camera below the seat and angle the camera up to take the picture. I think this is a nice power steering setup for the early Z cars.