primaz

The ones from Cap Metal Works look like they are only the bottom rails. To me what I did which is much stronger as it uses that "U" channel on the bottom and the same "U" channel inside the car to create a fully boxed frame rail and the thickness of the "U" rail is very heavy duty. I am sure those do help but if you create a fully boxed version then it really is as s strong as a full cage for chassis rigidity.

Thanks, I did get this reply directly from Star Road, so it does not appear they are ready to sell them yet but hopefully by the end of the year? We apologize for the delay. The number of parts to be manufactured has increased beyond our initial plans; we are currently producing the final components—specifically the front apron panel, rear apron panel, and side sills. We expect to complete them before the end of the year and will determine the pricing after displaying them at the Tokyo Auto Salon. ＊＊＊＊＊＊＊＊＊＊＊＊＊＊＊＊＊＊＊＊＊ 有限会社スターロード　井上 〒133−0051 東京都江戸川区北小岩8−23−1 TEL:03-5668-5675 FAX03-5668-5676 mail:info@starroad.co.jp http://www.starroad.co.jp

The Star Road website will not accept my email inquiry as all name, email, and messages have to be in "katakana" characters, meaning Japanese. I sent a message to their Instagram and Facebook and will see if I get a reply. Otherwise it seems I would need to write and speak in Japanese just to talk to them....

I will look to see if there is any direct contact but when I last looked their only US distributor gave me this reply, "Still no updates from Star Road on cost or delivery. Thank you, Shipping department " We appreciate your business and hope to continue serving you in the future! Disclaimer: If you are not 100% satisfied with the item(s) you received, please return it within 14 days of when you originally received your order. To be eligible for a return, your item must be in the same condition that you received - no signs of wear, scratches, or usage and in the original packaging. Jdm-car-parts.com offer items shipped free to you, but in case there's a return, you will be responsible for the cost of shipping the item back to us. If a full refund is requested, we will promptly refund the purchase price, excluding the original shipping and any applicable credit card fees. There are no refunds on items damaged in shipping. You must file a claim with the carrier. We cannot guarantee that we will receive your returned item - you are responsible for the item until it reaches us. When shipping a return, consider tracking and insuring your package. Please allow 1-2 weeks for returns to be processed. All return NOS items are subject to at least a 25% restocking fee. All NOS electric parts-sales are final. NO RETURN, NO EXCEPTION. ******************************************* jdm-car-parts.com 22626 Normandie Ave. Suite E Torrance, CA 90502 USA No walk-in store front available at this time. Tech Support: 310-308-8986 (This is NOT an order line) *******************************************

Unfortunately Star Road the North American firm that reps it still does not offer them; I have asked several times as I would be willing to purchase the doors and cowl.

I have several 240Z's. On one I did a 9 point cage consisting of a custom hoop with diagonal bar to the front passenger area near the tunnel with bracing on the rear towers and bracing for the front towers. Then on my other more mild 240Z I did a heavy gauge "U" channel frame rails under and inside the car covering the factory fake rails that went to the rear towers and all the way to the front of the car. What was amazing was that my mild 240Z solved the chassis twisting and was stiffer that my 9 point cage 240Z. I also had a rear end crash where I was fully stopped and a Prius hit my mild Z at 60 mph and only the rear end had damage, the car from the rear struts to the front were totally fine and so was I! That saved my life and the car was fixed with no issues. I also love that you have to be a real Z geek to even know it is not stock as the rails are just a little taller than the stock rails that they cover up so it looks like the car came that way from factory. Thus I would say frame rails but NOT the ones available at all of the companies I have seen as they are not that thick. The ones I used were strong enough where just one "U" channel not in the car would not bend even when you stand on it. Also my mild Z with the rails was stiff enough that you could jack the car and have 3 wheels off the ground so it was way better than the cage. I am adding that same "U" channels to my more extreme 240Z with the 9 point as I am installing a 750-900 HP RB30 turbo and the car will be a reliable 200 + mph 240Z.

For those whom have the earlier versions of their track attack, as they are I believe on the 3rd generation, I would recommend to have Dando's Automotive in Fremont, CA help you as they were able to get the earlier versions to work. Their earlier versions were NO WAY a simple DIY as I know for a fact that numerous custom modifications and fabrication work was needed to get the earlier versions to work. I can tell you then once they completed it, the car seemed to work well from what I was told. I am delayed on having the rear cross bar redone by a shop as the Apex one had a big gap and I do not want to use ugly spacers. From talking to Dando's I am not worried about this 3rd generation being a problem, but I bet there will be some modifications likely needed. The problem is they do not seem to listen and think they know more because they have engineering knowledge but as an example there is a difference between an early gen 240 and a later gen 240 which is probably why even on the 3rd gen the gap of the rear crossbar is so big, even though Dando's explained that and even pointed out a way to solve it by making it adjustable but did they listen? No. I think it can be a good and clearly has the cool factor but this is NOT a DIY unless you have good fabrication skills to fix whatever occurs in the install....

That JHK pan is a piece of $%(# If anyone wants my JHK pan as Up Garage refused to let me return it, let me know... Here is what is really needed for a big HP RB in a 240Z

I have two Datsun 240Z cars both with stock body running 245 45's on 16" x 8" rims with no flares. I find it funny where people flare their car yet do not make use of the extra space. I also like Z cars with flares but why do it unless you get the right offset to maximize the tire size?

Keep in mind for a 240Z it is rear wheel drive so to me the best RB swap would be an 2 WD RB 30, or a 2WD RB25. For a more demanding big HP version of those the pan must be rear sump, larger capacity, have the oil pickup designed to match the 2WD RB30 or 2WD RB25 at a minimum. I literally spent days searching the web and so did Robbie at RIPS Racing. I sent him so many links and none of them had what he knows is needed to keep the RB engine reliable, especially when it will be putting down big horsepower numbers. The JHK from UP Garage had one their website that it was for a 2WD RB20 or 25 block which is the same as a 2WD RB30 but that was not as claimed; If I had used that pan it would have severely damaged my expensive engine. Thus plan on a custom pan if you want the engine to last...

I do want to give a big thumbs up and shout out to "artishard" here on the HybridZ, I kept searching to find anyone whom had one of RIPS old custom oil pans and it turns out that "artishard" here on the HybridZ has that very pan and was kind enough to share several pictures. Those pictures were amazing as it looks like they are enough for Robbie at RIPS Racing to make a custom oil pan for my application! This is why HybridZ is so great to learn from others mistakes and share information so valuable in our pursuit of performance!

Datsun 240Z RB30 oil pan For my 1972 240Z, I wanted to create a reliable big horsepower streetcar capable of 800-1000 HP. To meet those goals I choose RIPS Racing whom has the proven track record in creating reliable high HP street cars, exactly what I was wanting. One of the issues I faced was that Robbie of RIPS had lost his template for a rear high-capacity oil pan for a 240Z swap. There does not seem to be any good oil pans for a 240Z RB swap. If you are building a big horsepower RB engine to be swapped into a 240Z PLEASE BE CAREFUL AS I PERSONALLY DO NOT THINK THERE ARE ANY GOOD PANS AVAILABLE AND YOU WILL NEED TO GO HAVE A CUSTOM OIL PAN MADE! Here is my sad experience thus far... After spending weeks online reviewing so many oil pans only to find that all of them were not adequate based on RIPS observations. I found this one JHK pan from U.P. Garage that appeared that it might work so I took a chance after they told me it would work, https://upgarageusa.com/collections/jhk-oil-pans/products/jhk-rear-sump-rb-cast-oil-pan When I received it, I shipped it straight to RIPS as I did not want to undo their professional packing. I did not open the box, as I just brought it to DHL and they put their label over where your label was. I sent it to Robbie at RIPS Racing in New Zealand. Unfortunately when it arrived to New Zealand it was damaged. I told Eric, & Doug @ UP Garage via email, The oil pan you shipped to me was damaged. I did not open the box, as just brought it to DHL and they put their label over where your label was. I sent it to Robbie at RIPS Racing in New Zealand. Additionally, Rob told me that this design would not work as there is insufficient clearance between the oil tube and also between the baffle and engine. I have attached pictures and an MP4 where Robbie shows the box damaged before fully opening it. This was an unfortunate expensive mistake as it cost me over $700 to ship it only to find out it was damaged and would not have been a good pan for my application. When I get my fully built engine towards the later part of this year Robbie will send your pan and I can return it. I would hope that I get a refund. Now we need to source a better pan that has more oil capacity, and a better design to provide the oil flow needed for my engine. On a phone call UP Garage said it was my fault for not opening the box before I shipped it to New Zealand. I told them I examined the box it was not damaged in anyway, so I reshipped it without opening it in order to not disturb their packaging, but they still denied any liability. I then sent them the following email, Eric, & Doug, I sent the pics you texted me to Robbie, and I am glad he explained the issues technically with the oil pan. Doug was telling me that your pan would work fine on a more stock build but reading Robbie’s great explanation, I doubt that would be the case on my 2 WD RB block. Regardless, the oil pan was damaged and if you feel that it can be resold to someone as Doug stated, I will send it to you after I receive my complete engine with the damaged oil pan from RIPS. You are specializing in a local RB market would be better suited to find a new home for this oil pan than me here in Northern CA. Doug claimed it should be easy to sell it as the damage was cosmetic, then it would make sense that afterward you resell the oil pan, you could reimburse me for my purchase or at least most of that cost. U.P. Garage sent this email to RIPS, We are, and have been, huge fans of your hard work to bring HP to the RB world!! So glad that the JHK pan has found it's way to your examination table. Here are the measurements we have taken on the RB25(rear drive block) screen configuration. Keep up the great work!! Feel free to call us: +1 253 565 9823 Doug/Erik Fatty Fat Cat www.upgarageusa.com From: RIPS Racing The pictures you have sent are not from a 2wd block, they are from a AWD block, possibly a RB26 with the longer AWD pickup. The measurements you have are with the pickup you have on your block and quite different to the measurements I have with the pickup and oil pan I have received. As stated, with the pickup bolted on (without a gasket) the pan will not go down all the way to the block, the pickup screen is holding the sump up a little bit meaning the screen is already touching the bottom of the sump before its even bolted down flat. There should be about 10mm clearance when the sump is bolted down meaning as it is, bolting the sump down will put load on the pickup and be squashing the screen and the tube inside the screen will be pretty much hard against the floor of the sump meaning a massive restriction in oil flow. RIPS also sent them this email, Hi, Just to add to this, with the oil pickup installed on the block (even without a gasket) the sump would not sit flat on the block, the oil pickup was ever so slightly holding it up so the screen on the pickup was hard against the bottom of the oil pan. This means if the sump was bolted up tight the pickup tube itself (inside the screen) would also be basically hard up against the bottom of the sump meaning major restriction is oil flow. There should be around 12-15mm clearance between the end of the oil pickup tube and usually around 5mm clearance between the screen and the bottom of the oil pan. As it was supplied there is no way it could have worked and would have surely led to an engine failure.

Their overall suspension including the front to me is good. It has evolved to the current version which has been updated at least a couple of times. Instead of trying to design your own you might consider just upgrading the Viking to the quad adjustable which is what I am doing. The Viking with their front can work great but you just have to be sure to know roughly what height you want, the tire/wheel height, etc. To me it is not a limitation on travel but they just have a limitation on the range of changing the ride height but once you know the desired midpoint that is a mute issue. I am getting their current Track Attack but am ordering them with the upgraded Viking 4 way adjustable Berserker coil overs so that I can get the ability to please my wife when not racing and high speed settings when needed with their independent high and low speed rebound and compression system. Once you know your desired midpoint then the Viking will give you around 3 to 3.5" up and down height adjustment which is plenty and your not likely going to change once you find your ideal level. Many big HP Corvettes, and other street/track cars are very happy with the Viking Quad coil overs. The Apex extra settings to me do not make it weaker but rather just complicate it for owners as those settings would never ever be used so you are just creating more chances for DIY people to get frustrated. Also as Ben280 suggested Viking tech support is very knowledgeable and can help you choose the right version. Again I do not believe there is any issue of bottoming or travel limits. It is just that the Viking gives you plenty of adjustability but the design is not a standard nono tube coil over so you just need to know the mid point of the height you want the car to be and order the right length to match. It is all of their adjustability which creates this difference compare to a mono tube where you do not have all of those knobs to adjust things.

I was asking because on the front of the Track Attack the Viking coil over set up needs to be ordered based on the wheel/tire height and how you want it to sit as the front setup due to the Viking design has limited travel for adjusting the height. The Viking is not like a standard coil over where you have all of the adjustability to change the perch height; it is a good design but you need to get the right option. Apex does not tell you that. The rear is fine as there is adjustability with the cantilever ability to have adjustment for height. Also be careful as that suspension has way too many unnecessary adjustments that would never be used so you can get into trouble easily on the setup...

Have you actually finished the installation of the track attack, or are just asking these questions hypothetically? I am somewhat familiar with this set and based on what I read it sounds like you have not installed it yet, is this correct?