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primaz last won the day on April 28

primaz had the most liked content!

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About primaz

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    Half Moon Bay, CA

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  1. Z car Front, Toe: 1/16” to 3/32” in, Camber: 0 to 1 negative with 1 being preferred.Caster: 4 to 6 postive. The actual number between 4 and 6 is not important, only that both sides are the same. Rear Toe: 1/16” in Camber: 0 to 1 negative with 1 being preferred.
  2. Apex Engineered already has engineered not only a front crossmember and front and rear A-arms if you want to upgrade the stock design but they also have both a front and complete front and rear suspension swap that is bolt in. No need to be experimental if you want to go extreme as they already worked out the design and executed in a high quality with a reasonable price given the design and components... https://www.apexengineered.com/store/p25/Track_Attack-_Complete_Front_Suspension_Conversion.html
  3. https://www.apexengineered.com/store/p26/Complete_Track_Attack_Kit.html Our team at Apex Engineered has once again revolutionized the suspension game for the S30 Chassis. Over a year in development we have made the worlds first BOLT IN upper and lower control arm conversion a 8.8 rear end conversion. Our kit eliminates the rear mustache bar, and dog legs and converts it to a rear subframe that significantly strengthens the rear structure on the chassis. We also converted the McPherson strut to a modern double A arm dynamic. This lets you adjust roll center, anti-squat, camber, caster, toe and many others. With this design you can fit a lot more tire than with the standard McPherson strut Comes with Viking dual adjustable coil overs with Hypercoil Springs Comes with Axle Shafts (capable of 1200 Ft/Lbs of Torque!) Save unsprung weight! Key Features: Improve roll center! Alter anti-dive and anti-squat! Widen track width Alter camber Alter toe Lightweight construction! Strong design! Tough powder coated finish! Customize for your needs! Included: Front crossmember Tension arm braces Billet crossmember bushing top clamp Upper and lower control arm Upper control arm adapter bracket Upper control arm adapter strut insert Quick Steering Knuckles Tie rods (Standard or Low Profile) Billet top coilover mount Rear subframe Upper and lower control arm Uprights (hub mounts) Rear strut brace Rear billet rocker Rear Billet brace Axle Shafts (capable of 1200 Ft/Lbs of Torque!) Viking Dual Adjustable shock Hypercoil Spring To source: Ford 8.8 IRS Differential (2007-2010) Ford 8.8 IRS Inner Axle (2007-2010) Nissan 300zx Twin Turbo Outer Axle (1990-1996) Nissan 300zx Twin Turbo Rear Wheel Bearing Assembly (1990-1996) This system does not let the limitations of the car dictate the upgrade and instead looks at how their vision of an ideal suspension can be installed. This is definitely a high end option but for big horsepower Z cars and they offer it for Datsun 6, RB Skyline, and V8's.
  4. I am sure this has been discussed and I tried to do a search but the HybridZ site had two server issues when I tried to do a search? & no results so, Here are a couple of options: http://www.arizonazcar.com/brake.html https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/240z/300mm-front-big-brake-kit-240z
  5. https://youtu.be/N94E9jPvp84 This might be the ultimate truly engineered suspension swap kit made for the 240Z cars, check out the video it is amazing and Apex Engineering makes it for stock engine, RB, and V8's, Bolt in upper and lower control arm conversion with 8.8 rear end that eliminates the rear mustache bar, and dog legs and converts it to a rear subframe that significantly strengthens the rear structure on the chassis. This converts the McPherson strut to a modern double A arm dynamic. This provides ability to adjust roll center, anti-squat, camber, caster, toe and many others. Use the Viking dual adjustable coil overs with Hypercoil springs that was the winner of best engineered new product at SEMA 2014. Also comes with axle shafts able to handle 1200 Ft/lbs of torque!
  6. Thanks artishard116 for posting this radical suspension! Yes there is a market as I might buy it for my Primadonna Z car I will be getting back to after I finish two 240's that are more mild street cars. The reason is that I will be putting down 700-1000 HP via a RIPS RB35 and the rear end was my biggest worry. The Primadonna Z car can be super stable over 165 mph and with the RIPS RB plus this Apex Engineered Track Attack kit I think it will be the perfect setup. You folks have to check this out: also this one too
  7. I would really like to know how this setup works in the real world. I have been impressed with the APEX Engineered products. If anyone has more information on this keep posting it... While you can just do the frame rails in my opinion to handle 500 HP and yes roll cages are great for the track and can take it further; I think this APEX kit is more for radically changing the suspension setup and for way more insane HP than a mere 500 where the 8.8 IRS is needed. I am likely going with the other APEX products to enhance the stock setup for one of my Z cars but this track attack system is intriguing for my Primadonna Z car?
  8. Luke, I just noticed you live close to me; a great shop that can do all of the frame rail work and even some strut welding is Dando's Automotive in Fremont. Ask for Ken they can do all of this and the price is extremely reasonable... PM me if you want more infor
  9. The links jhm & calZ are great. For a street car what I have found is that if you strengthen the frame rails then do some basic strut bars the car is plenty stiff for your needs and if you want to a bit more then do some further bars just for the towers; this will avoid needing cage. If you do want to race you would just need a hoop but for street there is no need. I added some pics of my rails and others have done similar versions. I did another 240Z where we found great boxed rails that were thinner and fully boxed so we just welded that on the bottom and eliminated welding inside the car; easier and similar result. This way your car is more street and others driving with you will appreciate not being in a cage. I own a more caged Z as well but when you get older you will find women often do not want to be in a caged car, maybe just a hoop but nothing more...
  10. Hey sorry to bother you....so you are running 245/40/16 with a 16 inch rim with 0 offset on all four corners????  I just picked up a 260 with coil overs and so on....Id love to run that set up without the flairs!!

    1. Show previous comments  1 more
    2. mpdlawdog


      thanks!  thats a hard tire to find!  I thing Ill go save and get a sticky set of 225/50/16 for now.....

    3. primaz


      If you do not want to spend a lot you might consider these:



      These are a bit pricey but good



      I got lucky and bought two sets of the Bridgestone Potenza's before they stopped making them; those are amazing and was pissed they stopped selling that size.


      FYI, If you ever decide to go to a 17" rim there are a ton of 245 45 tires; if you have three piece wheels you can re-barrel them from 16" to 17"

    4. mpdlawdog


      Thanks for the reply...I picked up some 16x8 with 0 offset...225 50 16 all the way around...I rolled the fenders but I need to cut the  lower valance because it rubs...it’s tight but so far so good



  11. From others on the forum, I found these, which to me look to be one of the best CV kits to also consider http://www.zcarblog.com/tag/cv-axles For big wheels/tires you really need to measure your car as there are so many types of flares, suspensions mods, etc. that there is no one perfect offset to me, so why not just spend $50 and measure your car and get the perfect offset to avoid spacers, etc. Do that after you install your flares if you want flares and after you finish the suspension. FYI, you can stuff a 245 easily on all four corners on a stock body so going with flares with the right offset, you can run much larger sizes. http://www.1320wheels.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=334
  12. Dude, Just rent that tool for $50 bucks that I posted and you can be assured of getting the perfect offset for your Z and eliminate any spacers. I do not understand what is the big deal? You can see from two of my 240's that a 245 will clear the stock body without any limiting of turning the wheels to full lock. I think our Orange Z with the +13 would clear without rolling but we rolled it to make sure. When you are going to find that perfect size to keep the fenders non rolled, just rent that tool and then you will be 100% correct with no guessing. Both of the two 240'z's I posted are street cars and the Orange one is a very mild ride with full coil overs that my wife drives. Sorry but to me, "don't be cheap, just rent the tool and measure your car".
  13. A 16 x 8 with a 245 wide tire will fit without any spacers on a stock body but again to be perfect and especially if you guys want to push it to the maximum and run any size larger than 8" you could fit wider in the rears (255 + ) BUT why be cheap you can rent the right tool to squeeze your offset to the maximum for under $50 bucks. http://www.1320wheels.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=334 I read the posting of the guy whom stuffed a 275 but that required longer studs, modifications to the shafts, adjustable aftermarket lower control arms, and I believe he had different offsets on one side versus the other for some reason? Thus when you go beyond a 245 you do not want a mistake as the clearance that is left is so small you should not go by what others have used unless your car is exactly the same year, same suspension mods, brakes, etc. and why risk it for $50 bucks and you can measure it exactly for your car? My two 240's both have 245's but the offset is slightly different. You do not need to purchase those expensive tools $250-800 or buy a cheaper quality tool for $100-200; just rent the high quality tool for $50 bucks....
  14. I am curious where are these supposed to be attached to the car? do they all suppose to have this on the car?
  15. I have two (2) 240z's, one with 16 x 8" with a +13, 5" backspace on all four corners running 245 40's. The other is about the same setup also running 245's on all four corners. The fenders are rolled on both. The orange is not as low but the red one is about 4.5" off the ground. Both cars have no rubbing issues. Both cars have coil overs. Running 245's really enable the car to stick to the pavement incredibly. Rather than going with anyone's specific off-set, I would recommend that you buy that tool to measure the maximum tire/wheel your car can fit or go to a good tire shop and have them measure it. The reason to me is that everyone is likely to run different brand suspensions, etc. I think my Red Z if a slightly different off-set but I cannot remember what it is but I do believe it is 5" backspace, it is closer to a zero offset?. Thus if you measure it you can fit the max for your car. I know on my Red car that I think I could actually fit a 255 if I push it but doubt that would clear in the front so I opted to go front/back with 245's so I can rotate them. I am running about a -1" camber and get pretty good life of the tire (inside 1-2" might be worn down to no tread and the other end is usually at or more than the wear level so with rotating them I get decent life). Both Z's are running Arizona Z car front 12.5" vented 4 piston Wilwood brake setup. The Orange Z is running BC Racing coilovers and the Red Z is running ground control coilovers. Lastly both cars have no issues with turning the wheels to full lock, etc. no rubbing, etc. And yes both cars are running with no spacers....
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