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primaz

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primaz last won the day on April 28

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About primaz

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  1. I would recommend to get a 1975 or older Z as then you will be smog exempt....
  2. You might want to give more information about your budget and what you would like as far as suspension, etc. as there are many ways to go about this depending on the goal of your car and your budget. As an example if you plan on doing a lot of suspension upgrades you might consider the many pathways you can go at Apex, from improving the stock design, to upgrading to an 8.8 IRS, to a full custom suspension, etc. They also have a cool crossmember that can be ordered for stock straight 6, a RB Skyline, or a LS or V8, which correct the suspension setup when you lower the car and comes with motor mounts specific to your application. https://www.apexengineered.com/store/p7/Front_Tubular_Crossmember.html
  3. Yes an LS is more expensive but you can find often a low mileage good LS with transmission and everything on it for around $5K. The old school V8' are not worth much as most people do not want them and are going to a modern LS fuel injected V8. If cost is an issue sure go with the old school as you can often get a old school 350 for next to nothing but the car no matter how nice will NOT resale for anywhere close to an LS Z nor be as desirable.
  4. One recommendation is to NOT install an old school 350 but rather an GM LS1 or newer V8. They are much lighter, and people want an LS NOT a 350 and a Z car with a 350 will NOT resell for that much as the majority of the people want an LS. The LS is so reliable, light, powerful and the way to go for a V8 in a Z car...
  5. Z car Front, Toe: 1/16” to 3/32” in, Camber: 0 to 1 negative with 1 being preferred.Caster: 4 to 6 postive. The actual number between 4 and 6 is not important, only that both sides are the same. Rear Toe: 1/16” in Camber: 0 to 1 negative with 1 being preferred.
  6. Apex Engineered already has engineered not only a front crossmember and front and rear A-arms if you want to upgrade the stock design but they also have both a front and complete front and rear suspension swap that is bolt in. No need to be experimental if you want to go extreme as they already worked out the design and executed in a high quality with a reasonable price given the design and components... https://www.apexengineered.com/store/p25/Track_Attack-_Complete_Front_Suspension_Conversion.html
  7. https://www.apexengineered.com/store/p26/Complete_Track_Attack_Kit.html Our team at Apex Engineered has once again revolutionized the suspension game for the S30 Chassis. Over a year in development we have made the worlds first BOLT IN upper and lower control arm conversion a 8.8 rear end conversion. Our kit eliminates the rear mustache bar, and dog legs and converts it to a rear subframe that significantly strengthens the rear structure on the chassis. We also converted the McPherson strut to a modern double A arm dynamic. This lets you adjust roll center, anti-squat, camber, caster, toe and many others. With this design you can fit a lot more tire than with the standard McPherson strut Comes with Viking dual adjustable coil overs with Hypercoil Springs Comes with Axle Shafts (capable of 1200 Ft/Lbs of Torque!) Save unsprung weight! Key Features: Improve roll center! Alter anti-dive and anti-squat! Widen track width Alter camber Alter toe Lightweight construction! Strong design! Tough powder coated finish! Customize for your needs! Included: Front crossmember Tension arm braces Billet crossmember bushing top clamp Upper and lower control arm Upper control arm adapter bracket Upper control arm adapter strut insert Quick Steering Knuckles Tie rods (Standard or Low Profile) Billet top coilover mount Rear subframe Upper and lower control arm Uprights (hub mounts) Rear strut brace Rear billet rocker Rear Billet brace Axle Shafts (capable of 1200 Ft/Lbs of Torque!) Viking Dual Adjustable shock Hypercoil Spring To source: Ford 8.8 IRS Differential (2007-2010) Ford 8.8 IRS Inner Axle (2007-2010) Nissan 300zx Twin Turbo Outer Axle (1990-1996) Nissan 300zx Twin Turbo Rear Wheel Bearing Assembly (1990-1996) This system does not let the limitations of the car dictate the upgrade and instead looks at how their vision of an ideal suspension can be installed. This is definitely a high end option but for big horsepower Z cars and they offer it for Datsun 6, RB Skyline, and V8's.
  8. I am sure this has been discussed and I tried to do a search but the HybridZ site had two server issues when I tried to do a search? & no results so, Here are a couple of options: http://www.arizonazcar.com/brake.html https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/240z/300mm-front-big-brake-kit-240z
  9. https://youtu.be/N94E9jPvp84 This might be the ultimate truly engineered suspension swap kit made for the 240Z cars, check out the video it is amazing and Apex Engineering makes it for stock engine, RB, and V8's, Bolt in upper and lower control arm conversion with 8.8 rear end that eliminates the rear mustache bar, and dog legs and converts it to a rear subframe that significantly strengthens the rear structure on the chassis. This converts the McPherson strut to a modern double A arm dynamic. This provides ability to adjust roll center, anti-squat, camber, caster, toe and many others. Use the Viking dual adjustable coil overs with Hypercoil springs that was the winner of best engineered new product at SEMA 2014. Also comes with axle shafts able to handle 1200 Ft/lbs of torque!
  10. Thanks artishard116 for posting this radical suspension! Yes there is a market as I might buy it for my Primadonna Z car I will be getting back to after I finish two 240's that are more mild street cars. The reason is that I will be putting down 700-1000 HP via a RIPS RB35 and the rear end was my biggest worry. The Primadonna Z car can be super stable over 165 mph and with the RIPS RB plus this Apex Engineered Track Attack kit I think it will be the perfect setup. You folks have to check this out: also this one too
  11. I would really like to know how this setup works in the real world. I have been impressed with the APEX Engineered products. If anyone has more information on this keep posting it... While you can just do the frame rails in my opinion to handle 500 HP and yes roll cages are great for the track and can take it further; I think this APEX kit is more for radically changing the suspension setup and for way more insane HP than a mere 500 where the 8.8 IRS is needed. I am likely going with the other APEX products to enhance the stock setup for one of my Z cars but this track attack system is intriguing for my Primadonna Z car?
  12. Luke, I just noticed you live close to me; a great shop that can do all of the frame rail work and even some strut welding is Dando's Automotive in Fremont. Ask for Ken they can do all of this and the price is extremely reasonable... PM me if you want more infor
  13. The links jhm & calZ are great. For a street car what I have found is that if you strengthen the frame rails then do some basic strut bars the car is plenty stiff for your needs and if you want to a bit more then do some further bars just for the towers; this will avoid needing cage. If you do want to race you would just need a hoop but for street there is no need. I added some pics of my rails and others have done similar versions. I did another 240Z where we found great boxed rails that were thinner and fully boxed so we just welded that on the bottom and eliminated welding inside the car; easier and similar result. This way your car is more street and others driving with you will appreciate not being in a cage. I own a more caged Z as well but when you get older you will find women often do not want to be in a caged car, maybe just a hoop but nothing more...
  14. Hey sorry to bother you....so you are running 245/40/16 with a 16 inch rim with 0 offset on all four corners????  I just picked up a 260 with coil overs and so on....Id love to run that set up without the flairs!!

    1. Show previous comments  1 more
    2. mpdlawdog

      mpdlawdog

      thanks!  thats a hard tire to find!  I thing Ill go save and get a sticky set of 225/50/16 for now.....

    3. primaz

      primaz

      If you do not want to spend a lot you might consider these:

      https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Toyo&tireModel=Proxes+T1R&partnum=445WR6T1RV2&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes

       

      These are a bit pricey but good

      https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Pirelli&tireModel=P+Zero+Rosso&partnum=445YR60ARN4&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes

       

      I got lucky and bought two sets of the Bridgestone Potenza's before they stopped making them; those are amazing and was pissed they stopped selling that size.

       

      FYI, If you ever decide to go to a 17" rim there are a ton of 245 45 tires; if you have three piece wheels you can re-barrel them from 16" to 17"

    4. mpdlawdog

      mpdlawdog

      Thanks for the reply...I picked up some 16x8 with 0 offset...225 50 16 all the way around...I rolled the fenders but I need to cut the  lower valance because it rubs...it’s tight but so far so good

      5EA8FCC5-C674-431C-8FEB-FE6E3630D01A.jpeg

      91B6AAE4-B34B-4396-9819-3826E7AD163B.jpeg

  15. From others on the forum, I found these, which to me look to be one of the best CV kits to also consider http://www.zcarblog.com/tag/cv-axles For big wheels/tires you really need to measure your car as there are so many types of flares, suspensions mods, etc. that there is no one perfect offset to me, so why not just spend $50 and measure your car and get the perfect offset to avoid spacers, etc. Do that after you install your flares if you want flares and after you finish the suspension. FYI, you can stuff a 245 easily on all four corners on a stock body so going with flares with the right offset, you can run much larger sizes. http://www.1320wheels.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=334
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