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primaz

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primaz last won the day on February 10

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About primaz

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    Half Moon Bay, CA

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  1. I used this setup from Arizona Z car for one of our 240Z' and found it to be a great street and mild racing use http://www.arizonazcar.com/brake.html I also bought the new master they recommended and left the rears with the stock drum brakes and the setup works great. There are also good kits from Techno Toys and Silverline so why re-invent the wheel when those are proven to be ready to bolt in and fit without issues. Also unless you are racing or have really big horsepower you really do not need disc brakes in the rear...
  2. On my newly finished 71' 240z that is running a Datsun Spirit 2.8 stage II, headers, and rebuilt SU's, the car was not easy to start with the more aggressive cam. I had a previous engine in another 240Z which was tripple Minuki's and I used a Nissan gear reduction starter and that made a big difference in starting the car especially in cold weather. I did some searching around online to see what was available and tried the one from Classic Car Performance know for making performance starters for British cars https://www.classiccarperformance.com/products/datsun-240z-260z-280z-high-torque-starter which uses 5 roller bearings, and it has made a huge difference in being able to start the car easily in cold weather. From my experience the more noticeable advantages of a quality gear reduction starters are when the car is either running a performance cam or triple carbs. The car starts on the first try which never happened before and with the aggressive cam it a person whom is not familiar with a choke and Z cars would easily flood the engine but now that seems to be a thing of the past.
  3. If you are interested in a 240z with no rust, R200, 280Z engine, 5 speed, very good mechanically that just needs paint, I would change interior color as it is white, I know of one that I believe he would sell it for around $3500 more than that rusty 280Z, let me know. PM me I tried to send you a message but the site is having some issues so I could not get to your profile for some reason?
  4. My car did not have rust or issues with the stock rails. I used Dando's Automotive that specializes on Z cars; they have two ways of doing their custom frame rails. My Red 240Z used their "U" shaped steel rails where they are boxed by welding them both under and inside the car. Now most of the cars they do they use an already boxed rail and just weld that on the bottom of the car which cuts the amount of labor a lot. As others have said it appears your car can be repaired but it does sound scary to me that you said, "window gets pinched to the door frame"? On Z cars until you bead blast the undercarriage and the rest of the body you will never know where all the rust may reside. I would really recommend you check the more common areas of rust to see if you can tell the conditions of those areas to decide if the cost is good. The areas I typically see is the rear rockers before the rear wheels, the rear hatch (when you open the hatch look carefully at the channels and seams), bottom of the front fenders where often the drain plugs get junk preventing water from escaping. Z cars are uni-body so no frame but they can be repaired it is just how extensive the bodywork is required. If you feel the car is a good buy, fix the stock rails first and ideally if you are ready to do the entire bodywork then bead blast the entire car and see what areas might have had hidden rust. Then fix those areas and if you can afford it put the rails I did as that is great for performance and safety.
  5. It should not be that expensive to have a good body shop install those Z car depo type Sheetmetal but another option while more expensive it better if you build the car for more high performance. I frame railed my 240z which provides a visual that looks like the stock look but provide incredible strength and even more than many roll bars. A good body shop or repair shop that can weld could do this somewhere between $1500 to $2500? FYI, besides the stiffness this saved my life and prevented my 240z from being totaled; I got rear ended by a car while stopped in traffic and the unibody was undamaged even with a hit from the rear from a Prius going 50 mph! Without those rails the car would have been totaled for sure.
  6. I used the Gorilla "The System" all lugs were lock set and then purchased their more secure X2 wheel locks to use one for each wheel. That provides two keys but each wheel has two different locks. The X2 has two stage spinning systems to make it harder for a theif. https://www.gorilla-auto.com/the-system https://www.gorilla-auto.com/x2-wheel-locks https://www.gorilla-auto.com/graphics2016/GorillaCatalog2016_Page_35.jpg
  7. I would recommend to get a 1975 or older Z as then you will be smog exempt....
  8. You might want to give more information about your budget and what you would like as far as suspension, etc. as there are many ways to go about this depending on the goal of your car and your budget. As an example if you plan on doing a lot of suspension upgrades you might consider the many pathways you can go at Apex, from improving the stock design, to upgrading to an 8.8 IRS, to a full custom suspension, etc. They also have a cool crossmember that can be ordered for stock straight 6, a RB Skyline, or a LS or V8, which correct the suspension setup when you lower the car and comes with motor mounts specific to your application. https://www.apexengineered.com/store/p7/Front_Tubular_Crossmember.html
  9. Yes an LS is more expensive but you can find often a low mileage good LS with transmission and everything on it for around $5K. The old school V8' are not worth much as most people do not want them and are going to a modern LS fuel injected V8. If cost is an issue sure go with the old school as you can often get a old school 350 for next to nothing but the car no matter how nice will NOT resale for anywhere close to an LS Z nor be as desirable.
  10. One recommendation is to NOT install an old school 350 but rather an GM LS1 or newer V8. They are much lighter, and people want an LS NOT a 350 and a Z car with a 350 will NOT resell for that much as the majority of the people want an LS. The LS is so reliable, light, powerful and the way to go for a V8 in a Z car...
  11. Z car Front, Toe: 1/16” to 3/32” in, Camber: 0 to 1 negative with 1 being preferred.Caster: 4 to 6 postive. The actual number between 4 and 6 is not important, only that both sides are the same. Rear Toe: 1/16” in Camber: 0 to 1 negative with 1 being preferred.
  12. Apex Engineered already has engineered not only a front crossmember and front and rear A-arms if you want to upgrade the stock design but they also have both a front and complete front and rear suspension swap that is bolt in. No need to be experimental if you want to go extreme as they already worked out the design and executed in a high quality with a reasonable price given the design and components... https://www.apexengineered.com/store/p25/Track_Attack-_Complete_Front_Suspension_Conversion.html
  13. https://www.apexengineered.com/store/p26/Complete_Track_Attack_Kit.html Our team at Apex Engineered has once again revolutionized the suspension game for the S30 Chassis. Over a year in development we have made the worlds first BOLT IN upper and lower control arm conversion a 8.8 rear end conversion. Our kit eliminates the rear mustache bar, and dog legs and converts it to a rear subframe that significantly strengthens the rear structure on the chassis. We also converted the McPherson strut to a modern double A arm dynamic. This lets you adjust roll center, anti-squat, camber, caster, toe and many others. With this design you can fit a lot more tire than with the standard McPherson strut Comes with Viking dual adjustable coil overs with Hypercoil Springs Comes with Axle Shafts (capable of 1200 Ft/Lbs of Torque!) Save unsprung weight! Key Features: Improve roll center! Alter anti-dive and anti-squat! Widen track width Alter camber Alter toe Lightweight construction! Strong design! Tough powder coated finish! Customize for your needs! Included: Front crossmember Tension arm braces Billet crossmember bushing top clamp Upper and lower control arm Upper control arm adapter bracket Upper control arm adapter strut insert Quick Steering Knuckles Tie rods (Standard or Low Profile) Billet top coilover mount Rear subframe Upper and lower control arm Uprights (hub mounts) Rear strut brace Rear billet rocker Rear Billet brace Axle Shafts (capable of 1200 Ft/Lbs of Torque!) Viking Dual Adjustable shock Hypercoil Spring To source: Ford 8.8 IRS Differential (2007-2010) Ford 8.8 IRS Inner Axle (2007-2010) Nissan 300zx Twin Turbo Outer Axle (1990-1996) Nissan 300zx Twin Turbo Rear Wheel Bearing Assembly (1990-1996) This system does not let the limitations of the car dictate the upgrade and instead looks at how their vision of an ideal suspension can be installed. This is definitely a high end option but for big horsepower Z cars and they offer it for Datsun 6, RB Skyline, and V8's.
  14. I am sure this has been discussed and I tried to do a search but the HybridZ site had two server issues when I tried to do a search? & no results so, Here are a couple of options: http://www.arizonazcar.com/brake.html https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/240z/300mm-front-big-brake-kit-240z
  15. https://youtu.be/N94E9jPvp84 This might be the ultimate truly engineered suspension swap kit made for the 240Z cars, check out the video it is amazing and Apex Engineering makes it for stock engine, RB, and V8's, Bolt in upper and lower control arm conversion with 8.8 rear end that eliminates the rear mustache bar, and dog legs and converts it to a rear subframe that significantly strengthens the rear structure on the chassis. This converts the McPherson strut to a modern double A arm dynamic. This provides ability to adjust roll center, anti-squat, camber, caster, toe and many others. Use the Viking dual adjustable coil overs with Hypercoil springs that was the winner of best engineered new product at SEMA 2014. Also comes with axle shafts able to handle 1200 Ft/lbs of torque!
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