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primaz

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primaz last won the day on February 10

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About primaz

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    Half Moon Bay, CA

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  1. I think their new "Track Attack" front and rear suspension is the way to go if money is not an issue. I am planning getting that for my extreme 240Z build. https://www.apexengineered.com/store/p26/TRACK_ATTACK_-_Complete_Front_And_Rear_Kit.html
  2. Yes, I highly recommend Market Auto in San Jose, CA ask for Dave They are at 140 San Jose Ave, San Jose, CA 408 292-9888 They have done two of my 240z's Here is the one I finished recently for my wife. The car was stripped to bare metal, all rust repaired, seam sealed, undercarriage painted with POR-15, rear valance/fender seams weled, new rear inner fender wells, painted with Lambo Merci-lago three stage orange, 911 Porsche mirrors.
  3. Also as far as brands I would highly recommend CCW they make quality, reasonably priced custom off set 3 piece wheels and are well respected in racing and performance street users...
  4. One thing to consider is that now most of the best tires are moving to 18" or 19" so when you go with a 16" or 17" you better look at the tire options and really make sure you want to stay with that diameter especially if it is a street car as the quality of tires can be very limited. I have two 240z's with no flared bodies with custom off sets and they are running 16x8.5 with 245 on all four tires but there are only a couple of decent tires and the prices is a little high. My more aggressive street 240Z has monster 345 and 285 15" but now I can not get tires for that size so I am going to go with a 19". One of the best street tires is the Michelin Pilot Super Sport and they only make one size in 17" but in 18" and 19" there are a great array of sizes, https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Michelin&tireModel=Pilot+Super+Sport&partnum=43YR9PSSXLV3&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes I would first look at the tire options very carefully before you decide on the rim size...
  5. I really think you are upgrading in the wrong order. The front brakes end up being 70-80% of what stops your Z car. I would say that Techno Toys has a great reputation on building good products but for the money I think that is a waste. For around the same cost I would recommend the Arizona Z car 12.5 vented Wilwoood kit for the front for $795 and use the $129 Master (Which is a Datsun stock MC used in later model Z's) they sell that works well with the stock drums or if you decide later to upgrade the rears to disc brakes. Why spend what it costs to get really good front brakes? You are not going to feel any real improvement until you upgrade the front brakes. http://www.arizonazcar.com/brake.html I put this setup on my wife's 240Z and it stops great and the pedal feel is very nice. I would do the front brakes first and if you had $350 more in your budget I would bump the Arizona Z car front up to a 6 piston caliber and if you have another $200 I would upgrade the rotors to 13"; I would do those upgrade before even contemplating rear disc upgrades as the fronts are where it matters period.
  6. First why are you wanting that rear end? I am assuming you want to put big horsepower, is that right? If so for less money than the Techno Toy I would recommend, the Apex rear end kit as it can accept a For 8.8 IRS, R200 from your Q45 as well as R32 Skyline & 300ZX, or R230 300ZX TT I believe it is a better design as it eliminates mustache bar & dog leggs, and provides more adjust camber, toe, roll center, caster, etc. If you are going big power this would be a better kit and then go with a Ford 8.8 IRS which you can get cheap on Ebay; the 8.8 IRS is better than the Q45 diff https://www.apexengineered.com/store/p62/Rear_Suspension_Kit.html If you have more money you can go ultimate rear suspension with their https://www.apexengineered.com/store/p24/TRACK_ATTACK_-_Complete_Rear_Kit.html that is a better design than trying to make the stock design better as it converts to a modern double A arm dynamic, like an Indy or formula one car! and can use so many IRS diffs that can handle way more power than a Q45 diff
  7. I used this setup from Arizona Z car for one of our 240Z' and found it to be a great street and mild racing use http://www.arizonazcar.com/brake.html I also bought the new master they recommended and left the rears with the stock drum brakes and the setup works great. There are also good kits from Techno Toys and Silverline so why re-invent the wheel when those are proven to be ready to bolt in and fit without issues. Also unless you are racing or have really big horsepower you really do not need disc brakes in the rear...
  8. On my newly finished 71' 240z that is running a Datsun Spirit 2.8 stage II, headers, and rebuilt SU's, the car was not easy to start with the more aggressive cam. I had a previous engine in another 240Z which was tripple Minuki's and I used a Nissan gear reduction starter and that made a big difference in starting the car especially in cold weather. I did some searching around online to see what was available and tried the one from Classic Car Performance know for making performance starters for British cars https://www.classiccarperformance.com/products/datsun-240z-260z-280z-high-torque-starter which uses 5 roller bearings, and it has made a huge difference in being able to start the car easily in cold weather. From my experience the more noticeable advantages of a quality gear reduction starters are when the car is either running a performance cam or triple carbs. The car starts on the first try which never happened before and with the aggressive cam it a person whom is not familiar with a choke and Z cars would easily flood the engine but now that seems to be a thing of the past.
  9. If you are interested in a 240z with no rust, R200, 280Z engine, 5 speed, very good mechanically that just needs paint, I would change interior color as it is white, I know of one that I believe he would sell it for around $3500 more than that rusty 280Z, let me know. PM me I tried to send you a message but the site is having some issues so I could not get to your profile for some reason?
  10. My car did not have rust or issues with the stock rails. I used Dando's Automotive that specializes on Z cars; they have two ways of doing their custom frame rails. My Red 240Z used their "U" shaped steel rails where they are boxed by welding them both under and inside the car. Now most of the cars they do they use an already boxed rail and just weld that on the bottom of the car which cuts the amount of labor a lot. As others have said it appears your car can be repaired but it does sound scary to me that you said, "window gets pinched to the door frame"? On Z cars until you bead blast the undercarriage and the rest of the body you will never know where all the rust may reside. I would really recommend you check the more common areas of rust to see if you can tell the conditions of those areas to decide if the cost is good. The areas I typically see is the rear rockers before the rear wheels, the rear hatch (when you open the hatch look carefully at the channels and seams), bottom of the front fenders where often the drain plugs get junk preventing water from escaping. Z cars are uni-body so no frame but they can be repaired it is just how extensive the bodywork is required. If you feel the car is a good buy, fix the stock rails first and ideally if you are ready to do the entire bodywork then bead blast the entire car and see what areas might have had hidden rust. Then fix those areas and if you can afford it put the rails I did as that is great for performance and safety.
  11. It should not be that expensive to have a good body shop install those Z car depo type Sheetmetal but another option while more expensive it better if you build the car for more high performance. I frame railed my 240z which provides a visual that looks like the stock look but provide incredible strength and even more than many roll bars. A good body shop or repair shop that can weld could do this somewhere between $1500 to $2500? FYI, besides the stiffness this saved my life and prevented my 240z from being totaled; I got rear ended by a car while stopped in traffic and the unibody was undamaged even with a hit from the rear from a Prius going 50 mph! Without those rails the car would have been totaled for sure.
  12. I used the Gorilla "The System" all lugs were lock set and then purchased their more secure X2 wheel locks to use one for each wheel. That provides two keys but each wheel has two different locks. The X2 has two stage spinning systems to make it harder for a theif. https://www.gorilla-auto.com/the-system https://www.gorilla-auto.com/x2-wheel-locks https://www.gorilla-auto.com/graphics2016/GorillaCatalog2016_Page_35.jpg
  13. I would recommend to get a 1975 or older Z as then you will be smog exempt....
  14. You might want to give more information about your budget and what you would like as far as suspension, etc. as there are many ways to go about this depending on the goal of your car and your budget. As an example if you plan on doing a lot of suspension upgrades you might consider the many pathways you can go at Apex, from improving the stock design, to upgrading to an 8.8 IRS, to a full custom suspension, etc. They also have a cool crossmember that can be ordered for stock straight 6, a RB Skyline, or a LS or V8, which correct the suspension setup when you lower the car and comes with motor mounts specific to your application. https://www.apexengineered.com/store/p7/Front_Tubular_Crossmember.html
  15. Yes an LS is more expensive but you can find often a low mileage good LS with transmission and everything on it for around $5K. The old school V8' are not worth much as most people do not want them and are going to a modern LS fuel injected V8. If cost is an issue sure go with the old school as you can often get a old school 350 for next to nothing but the car no matter how nice will NOT resale for anywhere close to an LS Z nor be as desirable.
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