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primaz last won the day on February 10 2020

primaz had the most liked content!

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About primaz

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    Half Moon Bay, CA

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  1. It is good you have the time and skill to do that! One thing I have done on two of my 240Z cars is having beefing up the frame rails. I do not mean the kits that are out there like the Bad Dog parts but instead more heavy duty boxed frame. The first 240Z we did we welded a heavy gauge U shaped on the inside and underside matted together to form a true boxed frame. That worked good but a lot of work and you had to take out all of the interior. The next version on the second 240Z an already boxed heavy gauge metal was welded just to the underside. This work was done by Dando's Automotive i
  2. My cousin used those on his caged Maverick, they work great. You just push it down and it disengages the bar so you can slide it out and when they are put back in place they just pock up and locks. They are plenty strong.
  3. I would recommend options like this, if you must have door bars, as these will allow the bar to swing out and are spring loaded making it easier than pins, etc. http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/mmo102002.html I would also try not to go crazy on the bars as you can try to limit bars around the passenger area. There are also retractable 3 point and 4 point seat belts or just do 5 point harness on the drivers seat. Believe me most women do not like seats with 5 point seat belts nor do they like any bars near them as they are worried about being hit by them, etc.
  4. The V12 will be a head turner. One thought on the cage as it really is for safety as you can get the stiffness with frame rails and strut bars; you can have the door bars swing out and there are spring activated locks for roll bars. My cousin did this on his hot rod so you have the side protection but still enables easier access. People forget that yes they are ok with climbing over bars but most others are not
  5. Are you talking about that Race Cast LSV12? I think it has that cool factor being a V12 and does use LS engine mounts, but that I believe is a cast iron block, so why not get an aluminum block LS instead as you get the same horsepower & lighter with much more options in parts, etc.? I am all for cages but the reason why I mentioned what I did on my mild street Z's is that to me it gets the chassis stiffness without the need for a cage which is good for a more street car. Your significant other will typically not like being in a car with bars all over and if they have to climb
  6. Twisted, One other bit of information that I wanted to share as I know many people are using the Bad Dog parts but what I did was have Ken at Dando's Automotive in Fremont, CA whom did their own versions which I feel is way better than the Bad Dog which is not fully boxed. Their first version was done on my RedZ 240 where they mated two heavy gauge steel U shaped pieces that are just a bit wider but not by much more than the stock Z rails and by welding an inside and and underside piece they form a fully boxed rail that appears stock if you are not a Z freak. On my wife's orange 240Z they us
  7. Great build and would love to know all of the tweaks, etc. to get the RB engine in there! I plan on having RIP's build me an RB30 turbo for my 240Z Primadonna Z. Very curious to see how the intercooler and the turbo piping will be installed. Please continue to post pictures when you are doing the rest of the build FYI, on another restomod 4 door that I installed a mild LS1 that I have completed, you might consider using the Heatshield Products, https://www.heatshieldproducts.com/lava-shield and line the entire tunnel and under all of the exhaust pipes. I wished I had done th
  8. Twisted, I agree that a cage is needed for safety for a track car. What I do think is that for a street car the frame rail upgrades can achieve a lot of chassis stiffness that is better than many mild cages but not as much as a more extreme cage. For the street it is good to me as you get more stiffness than just a simple hoop cage and strut bars and more than a cage with a hoop and even a diagonal bar. I have another 240Z with a 9 point cage but not a full cage, it has a hoop that is welded also to the strut tower, a welded bar between the strut towers, welded bars behind the strut tower t
  9. The do make great products and I am upgrading one of my 240's to their upgraded front/rear A-arms, tubular crossmember, inner/outer tie rods, and steering knuckles. One of the shops Dando's Automotive in Fremont, I use is in early stages of installing the Track Attack package. They are waiting on parts from Apex to finish the install. I did look at where they are on the install and it looks cool. What I have heard is that the kit so far is well made and installs with no issues other than Apex really should provide a good written installation instructions, thankfully Dando's is v
  10. I do not see rolling the fenders on a 240z affecting the value in my opinion. If you roll the fender the car looks stock and if you use the tool jhm mentioned you can get a custom offset wheel. I have two (2) 240Z's no flares but both have rolled fenders running 16x8.5" rims running 245 40 tires on all four corners which fills up the well very nicely and looks very clean. The extra width makes big improvement in handling... I have seen others even put wider tires than I have with no flares either just squeezing it to the max. I wanted to keep all four the same so I can rotate the wheels to
  11. jhm is right you should look at Tire Rack and see what tires are available. You do know that you can get custom white lettering stickers to stick on any tire, with that you might widen your options going to a 15, 16, or even 17" as a 240Z with coil overs can typically take an 8.5" wide rim and if you roll the fenders you can easily put 245 or even a bit wider on all four corners. The smaller diameter tires are being phased out so your options are limited...
  12. What I have found is that by upgrading the factory frame rail sections from the rear all the way to the front it works better than a cage which is great for using the car for street and track. I had this done by Dando's Automotive in Fremont, CA. Their first versions were using heavy gauge "u" shaped rails under and inside the car which mimicked the stock which was hard to even see it was modified. The second Z we did there they found a boxed steel that was just welded underneath and that worked almost as clean without needing to weld inside. FYI, I have a third Z with a 9 point cage and t
  13. Wow that is cool, I did not realize you are on this forum; you designed the kit at Godzilla! That new kit you are developing using the TL70 sounds like a great transmission option, when do you think that will be available and where will it be sold? Hopefully this will help people understand my goals. For the two (2) 240's I mentioned at the start of this post, they are street cars mainly with weekend racing in the mountains. One is more mild with a Datsun Spirt 2.8 stage 2 and the other is a Datsun Spirit 3.0 with my head that DL Potter ported. Both are sporting coil over suspen
  14. I think that is why that full kit for $4750 is more of a true cost as it includes the 6 speed tranny but you still need to factor another $200-$500 for shipping so it is really more like $5350 most likely. I think any good tranny will be around $5K when you are all done but will it be easily serviced in the future? That G-force T5 could be a good option if that company stays in business so that the internals can always be rebuilt? I love the Nissan Competition 5 speeds, my only worry is I am not sure what or where to go if I break it? They shift so nice and really increase the response of
  15. so you mean a Borg Warner T5 transmission used in Fords will bolt right up to our Nissan L-series engines? and then use G-Force Transmissions to build up their internal gear set https://www.gforcetransmissions.com/tran_gt-5.asp ? Am I understanding you correctly? and what do you mean by DS?
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