citjet

That is very interesting indeed, I thought for sure I was going to have someone custom make a driveshaft. How long have you been running this?

I didn't think that the stock engine came with a BOV in the sense you are thinking. I think what you are looking at it the overboost prevention which wouldn't keep the back flow from slowing the turbo down (obviously wrong side of TB) but would pop in the event of an overboost condition (proper side of TB). This is why you have to permanently plug or remove this safety feature if you are going to run higher than stock boost. The BOV to prevent slowing your turbo spool should be before the TB which will allow the excess pressure to vent or bypass and keep the turbo spooled.

I received this reply back from BRAAP on a similar question that I had asked him concerning cams. I'm going to be going this route as I already have one in a E88 head that I have on the shelf. It is a cheap available solution. "In my talking with Dave Rebello of Rebello Racing, he has found a stock N/A cam that he prefers to Turbo L-28’s over the stock and aftermarket Turbo cams. If you plan to run a Turbo, the cams with the “A†stamp on the back are it. Less lag, sharper crisper spool up, more HP on Rebellos Dyno for the same boost level vs turbo grinds, etc. This N/A cam can produce 200 N/A HP, but will require very fine tuning and serious head work." Like yourself I'm initially going to run the stock T3 at 10-12 psi with a NPR intercooler mainly because I want the lower end torque for the street more than the real high end power. I'm going to go ahead with installing MegaSquirt though the project seems daunting. I know I need it for future upgrades so I might as well get it over with.

Daniel, Any updates on the install? I'll be picking my donor car up at the first of the month and I'm hoping someone has struggled through this before I have to.

I still don't know if that would cause the wizzing noise that you're hearing but that is all I can think of at the moment.

If you don't get the chain staked good to hold it in place than the spring from the tensioner tries to pop out pinning the puck over to the side instead of aligned on the chain.

Hope this helps.

I'm picking up my donor car at the first of the month and will be doing the same turbo/T5 conversion. Perhaps it we all pool our experience we can come up with a definitive swap writeup. Several people have writeups on aspects of this, and I know of at least two that are currently doing the swap.

OZ, The blanket wasn't really my first choice but it is pretty effective. I was planning on wrapping my header with the copper heat shield from NAPA to make it look a little cleaner, but when I decided on the turbo swap I will be saving that for the new exhaust mani and downpipe. That stuff is expensive! The blanket would look a lot better if I would have cut it to fit but as it was a temp job I just made it work for awhile. I have never had any problem with vapor lock though, and I'm running in Florida heat all the time with no wrap on the fuel line so it obviously is doing it's job. Thanks for the compliment, it is very much a work in progress. I think when I pull the L24 I'm going to Herculine the whole engine bay, at least re-paint and take some time straightening up.

Love to see the TT system still in action! I'm going to swap the L28ET over stock first with the ECU and once I have all the bugs worked out switch over to MS. clutchdust, I've never experienced any of the symptoms that you described with my setup, but your wizzing noise could be from your timing chain tensioner. Did you put your engine together after the rebuild or was it someone else? This is a common problem in these engines but I don't know if it would cause that type of noise. Also did you adjust your valves after the rebuild? How much time do you have on the engine? Could be you just need to reset your valve lash.

Sorry, wrong URL. Here's my setup.

I'm also running the same setup a dhartig. I also get some rpm dip when braking, particularly when hard braking. I'm swapping a turbo in soon and will be going to the dark side of FI w/MS.

Found one!

Need 81-83 5 speed for turbo swap in 240Z. $500-1000. Looking for entire car and will part out extras.

I was wondering who was going to end up with that engine. You got a great deal on it, I wish it would've been closer to me. Good luck with the build I will be doing the same with my '72 so I'll be watching closely.

If this really is as clean as it looks I would say it's a deal. The east coast is not an easy place to find a nice Z, and if you can find a nice starting point close to you I would say jump on it.

Here are a couple of 280ZX's in craigslist that might be interesting: http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/cto/1093449634.html http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/cto/1099764912.html For $3500 there are a couple of 280Z's and a turbo 240Z project if you're willing to spend a little more. Every day there are more of these showing up for sale, just pick and choose carefully. Find the car with the least amount of rust possible as a base to start with, this will save you more money than anything else.

OZ, I do have a local shop that has a dyno with all of the bells and whistles, but the price they want per pull is pretty high. I was hoping to try to get my L24 dialed in "close enough" for a couple of months worth of driving until I can finish my other engine. The colortune may be a cheap option for me at home until then. I will definitely be putting the new engine on the dyno to get it dialed in perfect. I am interested in how your buddy modified the Holley you are using, sounds like it really opened up some tuning possibilities. I have also been looking for a good timing light and will look up the Innova light you mentioned. When I started reworking my vacuum routing I took off the vacuum advance from my dizzy and noticed that it was not moving. After moving the mechanism back and forth several times it loosened up and was working fine with no leaks. The mechanical side was very stiff as well, after taking it out and cleaning it and re-lubricating the vacuum would move the internals with no problem. God knows what my timing curve looked like, but I'm sure I was getting no vacuum advance. I will be setting the timing again tomorrow and will see how far off it is.

thrustnut, If you want to download pictures off of your computer like the ones in my last post than you can use the "Manage Attachments" button below the window that you type your text into. When the box comes up push the "Choose File" button and navigate to the location of the picture on your computer. If you use an outside server (photobucket, etc.) than push the small yellow button above the text box that looks like a mountain with a sun above it and put the URL Address for the picture that you want to display. If you use this method than your picture will be embedded into the post. I hope that this helps. Daniel

OZ, Here are a couple of photos of the plugs as removed. They are not the best pictures as I had to use my phone, I'll pick up my camera and get some better ones this afternoon. The are lined up in order with #1 far left in the picture. Interesting about modifying the metering block, I will look into this for the L28 when I finally have enough money to finish it. For now I'm just trying to keep the L24 running good enough to have fun with and carry me to work. As I don't have access to a wideband O2 setup, would colortune be the best way to dial in the carb? Thanks for all your help with this. Daniel

OZ, Thanks for the info, I'll see if I get all the info here: Manual 5-speed Stock timing on EI from D6F5-02 Dizzy-Vacuum Advance & E12-27 Control From PO: Some head work & mid lift street cam The engine ran smoothly, but never could get rid of the flat spot. If you pushed through it you could feel the secondary "kick in" and would run fine after 3000 rpm or so through the rest of the power band. BTW when the car was not under load this was never a problem it would free rev through this spot with no problem. I had done some research and found that some people with the L24 were having a similar situation caused by the secondary coming in too soon before the engine had enough air flow to support the extra fuel flow. This caused a dead spot in that RPM range and once the engine was around 2800-3000 would create enough flow and continue to run on through. When I changed the secondary spring out to the next lighter one (the lightest one they have) it did make a significant difference in the flat spot. It is now almost non-existent, but I'm sure I probably am giving up some power that I could have down low. I think that this is a lot of carb for the L24 and I'm hoping that my L28 build will support it much better. Having said all that I am now going to change all of the vacuum routing, the fuel rail, and air filter setup on the carb. I am going to clean up the dizzy and check the vacuum pot then reset the timing per Dave and your recommendations. I'll try and get a picture of a plug electrode for you tonight, they look pretty good (slightly rich) and I'm sure I need to go through and dial the carb in as I believe the PO just installed it out of the box. I will be searching for tune up procedures for the Holley as I am not familiar with this carb...YET.

If you want the identical paint color call Les at Classic Datsun, it's about $30 per can but the stuff looks great and lasts. http://classicdatsun.com/ I'll be using his paint on my L28 build.

Did either of you have to change out the secondary spring to something lighter to get rid of the dead spot between 2200-2700 rpm? Oz you probably have enough power not to have to worry about it, but it was the only thing that helped with my L24. I'm hoping that I can go back up to the heavier spring when I get my L28 built as it doesn't allow the secondary to come in until about 3200 in my current configuration.

Don't feel bad...I've seen tackle boxes that looked better than my engine compartment! I have a lot of work to do and some I've been putting off until I get my L28 finished for the engine swap. I talked with Dave at Arizona Z and he had similar things to say that show up in the pictures. He is running no vacuum lines to carb at all, brake booster to the rear intake port and vacuum advance to the front intake port, that's all. He put a filter on the PCV port and routed the valve cover vent into the air filter on the carb, he said he has no problem with fumes and vacuum leaks with this setup. I'm going to try this setup and reset my timing and see how it works out for awhile BTW he sets timing as on the site as well advancing until pinging or rough starts and going back a couple of degrees.

This was how it looked when I bought it, it has been cleaned up considerably and I will try to get some more pics here soon. The main setup difference that I see is that the front line front the manifold is running to the lower crankcase vent which has a tap going off to the vapor control valve, there is a vacuum line running from the lower port on the carb to the vapor control valve. The upper port on the carb is run to the vacuum advance on my distributor. The rear port is run solely to my brake booster. The rear I am fine with, it is the upper port on my carb going to my vacuum advance that I believe is wrong. On the picture from the Arizona site they show a vacuum line going off of the lower carb port to what I believe should be the vapor control valve. The front manifold port is going just to vacuum advance for the distributor and the carbon canister (need to see where this will go for me as my 240 is before this setup). And they just have a filtered breather cover on the crankcase vent. I like the brake line fuel delivery as it cleans things up, but what do you do with the return line to the tank? Plug it? I am going to give Dave a call today and see what advise he may have as well, I'll post back his reply. OZ, your setup looks great! It looks like you used both sides of the fuel rail for delivery, what did you do with your return line?