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nmehdikh

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About nmehdikh

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    Los Angeles

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  1. Had some time this weekend to buff the paint and start putting it back together. Still need to get the front end put together.
  2. Bodywork and paint done by my dad. Paint code is NH0, Honda championship white
  3. I don't know anything about the bottom end of the engine, just that the block is stamped L26 and it has flat pistons. The head is a N42 that I only had rebuilt and got a Isky L-490 cam on, as well as new valve springs etc. Didn't do any head work. The header is a "Top end performance" 6-2-1, with mostly a straight section with followed by a relatively small magnaflow muffler. Besides that its just the whole EFI / ITB setup. I'm honestly very surprised how much power it made, I was expecting 160-170ish.
  4. Finally hit the dyno, made 190 horsepower to the wheels. Very happy with the results. https://photos.app.goo.gl/qB5vufWp9q44WQiA9
  5. I'm really scratching my head over this. I swapped out the IAC with a new one. Car idles stable at 550 rpms, but regardless of what the IAC is doing, the RPMs don't change. The valve is physically opening and closing when commanded by the ECU. (click the pic for better quality) At fully closed, the valve is still moving air through it. At fully open, the valve is still moving the same amount of air through it. Blocking the valve with my hand kills airflow to the engine and stalls it. Car is warmed up to temp and idling stable in the log. The only possible thing I can think of is the plumbing from the IAC to the ITBs isn't large enough to move enough air, but I seriously doubt this is it. Any ideas?
  6. 99hz. The valve moves as expected, and responds to ECU commands. I just wasn't getting a change in RPM, which lead me to believe I had a vacuum leak. Which made me check the valve at "closed" and it was still pulling in air.
  7. I got in a new IAC, but haven't had a chance to mess with it yet. I'll try your suggestion this weekend, thanks for the input. My bigger issue is that I wasn't really getting any change in idle speed regardless of the position of the idle valve, which leads me to believe I may have a vacuum leak to hunt down as well.
  8. It's driven from the megasquirt and behaving as it should. At 0% duty cycle, its slightly open. At 35% duty cycle, its fully closed. At 100% duty cycle, its fully open. The 0% slightly open mode is a fail safe mode. This thread shows the expected behavior of the valve. Here is my valve, as you can see at 35% duty cycle, its closed. But it seems to not actually be sealing shut.
  9. Yeah I hear you, just slowly ticking away at it. I have a question about Bosch Idle valves if someone might have some experience with them. I'm using a bosch IAC out of a early 2000s VW (pictured below). The valve behaves as expected, and I can see it close at the proper duty cycles. However, it's only effecting my idle by about 50 rpm. If I put my thumb infront of the idle hole, I can still feel a lot of air being sucked in through the valve even when its fully closed. If I fully cover the IAC intake, the engine shuts down. Are these valves supposed to seal at fully closed? Or do they still leak air by? I think I might have a defective valve.
  10. Its been a while since I updated this. Work and grad school really taking up most of my time. But if any of you guys are interested, this crazy idea actually worked. I was able to fire up the car a couple days ago. I wouldn't have been able to do it without the help of softopz or chickenman, if anyone is considering a megasquirt setup, definitely contact them. Here it is warmed up and idling. I haven't messed with the idle screws on the ITBs at all, nor have I completely figured out my IAC yet, but it manages to maintain idle all the way down at 550 rpm. I did a cold valve adjustment when I put the head on, and rechecked it again after running it for a short bit, but I am still getting a lot of valve train noise. The head was rebuilt since the car last ran, and it now has a isky L-490 cam in it. Isky recommended valve clearance of 0.008 for intake and 0.010 for exhaust. https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipN_NSWTqU1tN3p8_JVp7szJaDdhc5ZWN0e7GPRV5N3Po2cQ5dEdTi5KxlpcsvwEbw?key=M1h6WjB6LVFYa1pBNkFkUWpDdy1scnVnZ3RYT3NR Here are some short revs to 3k https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipPw4LY1RrPY9tM2cJXfVbCpmwAxgEaBIFc62txmmWP2fCwzQAILc4LDuIZNwGHQ7w?key=akJQbnRiSzdaNFhTU2JCdExZZ2pfQ3h1eTF2a05n
  11. I came here to reiterate how helpful Chickenman is. I wouldn't have been able to get my car running without his help. If anyone is considering anything to do with megasquirt, I'd definitely recommend contacting him.
  12. Updates! 1) Got the vintage air unit mounted under the dash and AC lines plumbed to a bulkhead fitting in the firewall. 2) Plumbed heater hoses to the vintage air unit as well 3) Got fuel lines completely finished up and mounted up. Including regulator and tank vents. 4) Started plumbing vacuum lines, about 75% done In the next couple of weekends I'll probably be finishing up the vacuum lines. Then mounting the radiator, fan, and coolant plumbing. I also had some time with one of the 3d printers at work, so I modeled up a velocity stack and printed it for some practice. The surface of the print has not been cleaned up at all, hence the left overs from the supports and rough finish.
  13. Progress has been slow due to the following factors : Finals Finding a new apartment Work travel Graduating from college this week Starting a new job on Monday But I had some time this afternoon so I made a mount for the coil packs and got that done. There has also been progress on wiring. chassis re-wiring is done. Need to finish up gauges and tie it all in with the engine harness. Slow and steady.
  14. Brian at technoversions got back to me. I just placed an order for his adapter, and it'll be a couple weeks before I have time to actually wire it up and test it. But this is the general diagram I'm going with. I'll bump this thread with updates later.
  15. While posting this I also emailed technoversions with my questions. He's currently looking into the MS manual about the tach signal output, but he believes that the tachoutput signal from MS should be enough to trigger his adapter. If that is the case, it can be wired up similarly to his diagrams. I'll report back once he gets back to me. I'll make sure to document all of this after I get it working in-case someone has similar questions in the future.
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