Jump to content
HybridZ

nmehdikh

Members
  • Content Count

    65
  • Donations

    0.00 USD 
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    0%

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About nmehdikh

  • Rank
    Regular

Profile Information

  • Location
    Los Angeles

Recent Profile Visitors

1340 profile views
  1. It's driven from the megasquirt and behaving as it should. At 0% duty cycle, its slightly open. At 35% duty cycle, its fully closed. At 100% duty cycle, its fully open. The 0% slightly open mode is a fail safe mode. This thread shows the expected behavior of the valve. Here is my valve, as you can see at 35% duty cycle, its closed. But it seems to not actually be sealing shut.
  2. Yeah I hear you, just slowly ticking away at it. I have a question about Bosch Idle valves if someone might have some experience with them. I'm using a bosch IAC out of a early 2000s VW (pictured below). The valve behaves as expected, and I can see it close at the proper duty cycles. However, it's only effecting my idle by about 50 rpm. If I put my thumb infront of the idle hole, I can still feel a lot of air being sucked in through the valve even when its fully closed. If I fully cover the IAC intake, the engine shuts down. Are these valves supposed to seal at fully closed? Or do they still leak air by? I think I might have a defective valve.
  3. Its been a while since I updated this. Work and grad school really taking up most of my time. But if any of you guys are interested, this crazy idea actually worked. I was able to fire up the car a couple days ago. I wouldn't have been able to do it without the help of softopz or chickenman, if anyone is considering a megasquirt setup, definitely contact them. Here it is warmed up and idling. I haven't messed with the idle screws on the ITBs at all, nor have I completely figured out my IAC yet, but it manages to maintain idle all the way down at 550 rpm. I did a cold valve adjustment when I put the head on, and rechecked it again after running it for a short bit, but I am still getting a lot of valve train noise. The head was rebuilt since the car last ran, and it now has a isky L-490 cam in it. Isky recommended valve clearance of 0.008 for intake and 0.010 for exhaust. https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipN_NSWTqU1tN3p8_JVp7szJaDdhc5ZWN0e7GPRV5N3Po2cQ5dEdTi5KxlpcsvwEbw?key=M1h6WjB6LVFYa1pBNkFkUWpDdy1scnVnZ3RYT3NR Here are some short revs to 3k https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipPw4LY1RrPY9tM2cJXfVbCpmwAxgEaBIFc62txmmWP2fCwzQAILc4LDuIZNwGHQ7w?key=akJQbnRiSzdaNFhTU2JCdExZZ2pfQ3h1eTF2a05n
  4. nmehdikh

    Chickenman Remote Tune Service Review

    I came here to reiterate how helpful Chickenman is. I wouldn't have been able to get my car running without his help. If anyone is considering anything to do with megasquirt, I'd definitely recommend contacting him.
  5. Updates! 1) Got the vintage air unit mounted under the dash and AC lines plumbed to a bulkhead fitting in the firewall. 2) Plumbed heater hoses to the vintage air unit as well 3) Got fuel lines completely finished up and mounted up. Including regulator and tank vents. 4) Started plumbing vacuum lines, about 75% done In the next couple of weekends I'll probably be finishing up the vacuum lines. Then mounting the radiator, fan, and coolant plumbing. I also had some time with one of the 3d printers at work, so I modeled up a velocity stack and printed it for some practice. The surface of the print has not been cleaned up at all, hence the left overs from the supports and rough finish.
  6. Progress has been slow due to the following factors : Finals Finding a new apartment Work travel Graduating from college this week Starting a new job on Monday But I had some time this afternoon so I made a mount for the coil packs and got that done. There has also been progress on wiring. chassis re-wiring is done. Need to finish up gauges and tie it all in with the engine harness. Slow and steady.
  7. nmehdikh

    current sensing tachometer

    Brian at technoversions got back to me. I just placed an order for his adapter, and it'll be a couple weeks before I have time to actually wire it up and test it. But this is the general diagram I'm going with. I'll bump this thread with updates later.
  8. nmehdikh

    current sensing tachometer

    While posting this I also emailed technoversions with my questions. He's currently looking into the MS manual about the tach signal output, but he believes that the tachoutput signal from MS should be enough to trigger his adapter. If that is the case, it can be wired up similarly to his diagrams. I'll report back once he gets back to me. I'll make sure to document all of this after I get it working in-case someone has similar questions in the future.
  9. nmehdikh

    current sensing tachometer

    So I've been doing some reading on this, and I want to make sure I got my ducks in a row before I spend money on an adapter. Car is a 1973 240z, being converted to MS3x 3.57. Factory wiring is gone, no coil etc. Here is a pic of my tach, which if I understand correctly is the current sensing type. I've been reading this thread about using a MSD 8920 adaptor. And here is the manual provided by MSD So from my understanding there are 4 wires on the MSD box. 1) Ground 2) Tach signal input 3) output to tach 4) violet (unused) I connect the MS tach signal to wire #2. I take wire #3 and connect it to one end of the tach loop. I connect the other end of the tach loop to a +12v power when the car is running or starting. And I ground wire #1. Will this work? The other option is using a TM-02-I from technoversions. The instruction manual can be found here. 1) One end of tach "loop" connected to +12V when running or starting 2) Other end of tach loop connected to pin 3 on the tach adaptor (with or without power resistor?) 3) Pin 1 connected to +12V when running or starting 4) Pin 2 connected to ground 5) Pin 5 connected to megasquirt tach output? Also, on the technoversions adaptor manual, what is the difference between the two +12v sources?
  10. I've been traveling for work the past few weeks so I haven't been able to get much done. But this weekend has been pretty productive. Got the distributor swapped over to the turbo distributor to give me crank angle and cam position. Got the AC compressor mounted as well. I had to CAD up and mill out a little bracket to adapt the throttle linkage to the factory triumph cable pull. Here is the completed linkage and a crappy vertical video
  11. While I've been doing all this work on the car, I've been in contact with Softopz, and he's been making me a megasquirt harness for my needs. He recently sent me work in progress pics, and has been great to deal with. I'd highly recommend him if you are interested in going the megasquirt route. Here is a link to his thread where he sells harnesses.
  12. Thanks for the info guys. I appreciate it. This weekend is pretty busy for me so I didn't have much time to work on the car. In the meantime, I finalized the header and intake install and they are on for good. I had to wait for a new gasket that arrived a couple days ago. I also got the thermostat housing on, and the fuel rail and injectors. The throttle bodies are still only on there temporarily.
  13. nmehdikh

    240z L28et Overheating

    It looks like it clears an AC pulley, but it seems like it might interfere with the belt / compressor. Hard to tell from the pics.
  14. I got a couple questions for you guys. 1) Since I'm going to be running LS coils, what kind of spark plugs should I run and at what gap? 2) Since I rebuild the head and it has a brand new cam, what break-in procedure do you guys recommend? And what oil should I run during break-in?
  15. nmehdikh

    240z L28et Overheating

    Thanks a lot, those pics are very helpful!
×