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Everything posted by nmehdikh

  1. Car is a 1973 240z with an L26 basket case, with lots of rust and wiring issues. Since my initial question thread started getting offtopic, I figured I would finally start a build thread to expand on my questions, and document my progress so far with the car. Original thread is found HERE Parts are on order and I'm slowly putting together my EFI / ITB setup. I'll post updates and questions here. Since the start of that thread, I've really dug into the car to find terrible rust as expected. So, first order of business was replacing the floors and flame rails. Got floors from zedfindings and rails from baddog. Passenger side before paint. Driver side painted. You can see the rats nest of wiring hanging under the dash. Going to have to clean this all up pretty soon. My car didn't have seatbelts when I bought it, so I also put in a half cage and harnesses. Cage was built and welded in by a local shop. My seats currently sit too high for my liking (and for the harnesses), so I'm either going to get new seats or a build a smaller seat bracket. Also replaced redid the entire braking system with 4 piston discs in the front, converted the rear to disks, and a new master cylinder. I've also replaced most of the suspension bushings, still have a few to do. This weekend I am going to pull the head off to get it rebuilt. Which leads me to my first set of questions. I thought the car just had a stock L26 in it. But now I'm not too sure so I need some help identifying stuff and how to move forward. The block is stamped "L26 086142" and the head is stamped "N42". I previously did a valve adjustment, and I remember checking the cam markings and it had standard mark but now that I realize it has a N42, I'm not sure if it hasn't been reground. There is a isky racing cams sticker on the car window, but who knows if that is just for "show". When I pull the head off, how do I go about identifying the cam? And if it has been reground? How do I check if the head has been shaved? What should I look for inside the motor (should I expect flat top pistons? Or dished? or notched?)? Given that I am going megasquirt EFI with ITBs, what should I have done for the head performance wise? Valve springs? Cam suggestions?
  2. I got in a new IAC, but haven't had a chance to mess with it yet. I'll try your suggestion this weekend, thanks for the input. My bigger issue is that I wasn't really getting any change in idle speed regardless of the position of the idle valve, which leads me to believe I may have a vacuum leak to hunt down as well.
  3. It's driven from the megasquirt and behaving as it should. At 0% duty cycle, its slightly open. At 35% duty cycle, its fully closed. At 100% duty cycle, its fully open. The 0% slightly open mode is a fail safe mode. This thread shows the expected behavior of the valve. Here is my valve, as you can see at 35% duty cycle, its closed. But it seems to not actually be sealing shut.
  4. Yeah I hear you, just slowly ticking away at it. I have a question about Bosch Idle valves if someone might have some experience with them. I'm using a bosch IAC out of a early 2000s VW (pictured below). The valve behaves as expected, and I can see it close at the proper duty cycles. However, it's only effecting my idle by about 50 rpm. If I put my thumb infront of the idle hole, I can still feel a lot of air being sucked in through the valve even when its fully closed. If I fully cover the IAC intake, the engine shuts down. Are these valves supposed to seal at fully closed? Or do they still leak air by? I think I might have a defective valve.
  5. Its been a while since I updated this. Work and grad school really taking up most of my time. But if any of you guys are interested, this crazy idea actually worked. I was able to fire up the car a couple days ago. I wouldn't have been able to do it without the help of softopz or chickenman, if anyone is considering a megasquirt setup, definitely contact them. Here it is warmed up and idling. I haven't messed with the idle screws on the ITBs at all, nor have I completely figured out my IAC yet, but it manages to maintain idle all the way down at 550 rpm. I did a cold valve adjustment when I put the head on, and rechecked it again after running it for a short bit, but I am still getting a lot of valve train noise. The head was rebuilt since the car last ran, and it now has a isky L-490 cam in it. Isky recommended valve clearance of 0.008 for intake and 0.010 for exhaust. https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipN_NSWTqU1tN3p8_JVp7szJaDdhc5ZWN0e7GPRV5N3Po2cQ5dEdTi5KxlpcsvwEbw?key=M1h6WjB6LVFYa1pBNkFkUWpDdy1scnVnZ3RYT3NR Here are some short revs to 3k https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipPw4LY1RrPY9tM2cJXfVbCpmwAxgEaBIFc62txmmWP2fCwzQAILc4LDuIZNwGHQ7w?key=akJQbnRiSzdaNFhTU2JCdExZZ2pfQ3h1eTF2a05n
  6. nmehdikh

    Chickenman Remote Tune Service Review

    I came here to reiterate how helpful Chickenman is. I wouldn't have been able to get my car running without his help. If anyone is considering anything to do with megasquirt, I'd definitely recommend contacting him.
  7. Updates! 1) Got the vintage air unit mounted under the dash and AC lines plumbed to a bulkhead fitting in the firewall. 2) Plumbed heater hoses to the vintage air unit as well 3) Got fuel lines completely finished up and mounted up. Including regulator and tank vents. 4) Started plumbing vacuum lines, about 75% done In the next couple of weekends I'll probably be finishing up the vacuum lines. Then mounting the radiator, fan, and coolant plumbing. I also had some time with one of the 3d printers at work, so I modeled up a velocity stack and printed it for some practice. The surface of the print has not been cleaned up at all, hence the left overs from the supports and rough finish.
  8. nmehdikh

    current sensing tachometer

    So I've been doing some reading on this, and I want to make sure I got my ducks in a row before I spend money on an adapter. Car is a 1973 240z, being converted to MS3x 3.57. Factory wiring is gone, no coil etc. Here is a pic of my tach, which if I understand correctly is the current sensing type. I've been reading this thread about using a MSD 8920 adaptor. And here is the manual provided by MSD So from my understanding there are 4 wires on the MSD box. 1) Ground 2) Tach signal input 3) output to tach 4) violet (unused) I connect the MS tach signal to wire #2. I take wire #3 and connect it to one end of the tach loop. I connect the other end of the tach loop to a +12v power when the car is running or starting. And I ground wire #1. Will this work? The other option is using a TM-02-I from technoversions. The instruction manual can be found here. 1) One end of tach "loop" connected to +12V when running or starting 2) Other end of tach loop connected to pin 3 on the tach adaptor (with or without power resistor?) 3) Pin 1 connected to +12V when running or starting 4) Pin 2 connected to ground 5) Pin 5 connected to megasquirt tach output? Also, on the technoversions adaptor manual, what is the difference between the two +12v sources?
  9. Progress has been slow due to the following factors : Finals Finding a new apartment Work travel Graduating from college this week Starting a new job on Monday But I had some time this afternoon so I made a mount for the coil packs and got that done. There has also been progress on wiring. chassis re-wiring is done. Need to finish up gauges and tie it all in with the engine harness. Slow and steady.
  10. nmehdikh

    current sensing tachometer

    Brian at technoversions got back to me. I just placed an order for his adapter, and it'll be a couple weeks before I have time to actually wire it up and test it. But this is the general diagram I'm going with. I'll bump this thread with updates later.
  11. nmehdikh

    current sensing tachometer

    While posting this I also emailed technoversions with my questions. He's currently looking into the MS manual about the tach signal output, but he believes that the tachoutput signal from MS should be enough to trigger his adapter. If that is the case, it can be wired up similarly to his diagrams. I'll report back once he gets back to me. I'll make sure to document all of this after I get it working in-case someone has similar questions in the future.
  12. I've been traveling for work the past few weeks so I haven't been able to get much done. But this weekend has been pretty productive. Got the distributor swapped over to the turbo distributor to give me crank angle and cam position. Got the AC compressor mounted as well. I had to CAD up and mill out a little bracket to adapt the throttle linkage to the factory triumph cable pull. Here is the completed linkage and a crappy vertical video
  13. While I've been doing all this work on the car, I've been in contact with Softopz, and he's been making me a megasquirt harness for my needs. He recently sent me work in progress pics, and has been great to deal with. I'd highly recommend him if you are interested in going the megasquirt route. Here is a link to his thread where he sells harnesses.
  14. Thanks for the info guys. I appreciate it. This weekend is pretty busy for me so I didn't have much time to work on the car. In the meantime, I finalized the header and intake install and they are on for good. I had to wait for a new gasket that arrived a couple days ago. I also got the thermostat housing on, and the fuel rail and injectors. The throttle bodies are still only on there temporarily.
  15. nmehdikh

    240z L28et Overheating

    It looks like it clears an AC pulley, but it seems like it might interfere with the belt / compressor. Hard to tell from the pics.
  16. I got a couple questions for you guys. 1) Since I'm going to be running LS coils, what kind of spark plugs should I run and at what gap? 2) Since I rebuild the head and it has a brand new cam, what break-in procedure do you guys recommend? And what oil should I run during break-in?
  17. nmehdikh

    240z L28et Overheating

    Thanks a lot, those pics are very helpful!
  18. Did you also run a vacuum reservoir? Or are you just running the pump to the booster?
  19. nmehdikh

    240z L28et Overheating

    It would be great if you can get a pic of the waterpump pulley as well as the AC pulleys. Also if you can, would you be able to measure the thickness of your radiator? I have a similar setup, but slightly different radiator and am curious to see if I could fit the altima fans. Thanks.
  20. Started test fitting stuff to check clearances. Also got the fuel pump installed in the tank this weekend. Next weekend is probably going to be running fuel lines, while still procrastinating the mess that is wiring. I also need to get another set of triumph velocity stacks, because the two sets I have are currently mismatched...
  21. nmehdikh

    240z L28et Overheating

    How did you wire up the altima fans exactly? I recall they are a 4 wire plug due to high / low speed settings right? Are you just running high all the time? And how tight is the fan against the motor? How's the clearance for the pulleys and belts?
  22. So, I'm in the middle of converting my car to EFI/ITBs. I have a thread in the project forum. But I had a specific question about tank venting. I'm running THIS tanks inc pump, which has it's own vent opening. I'm trying to get rid of whole evap tank system and trying to figure out what to plug, and what to route where. A post in this thread suggests to only run rear tank pipe to the filler neck, then plug the rest of the tank fittings to get rid of the evap tank. So what do I do here? A : plug all the tank fittings, then run the tanks inc vent to the filler neck? B : plug all the tank fittings except the rear one, run the rear to the filler neck, then vent the tanks inc somewhere else? C : plug all the tank fittings, plug the filler neck fitting, and run the tanks inc vent somewhere else? D : something else that I'm missing? Also, does anyone make a line of fuel safe end caps for the tank openings? or do I have to do a stretch of fuel hose and bolt method?
  23. nmehdikh

    Fuel tank vent / Evap tank / EFI question

    Car is a 73 240z, sorry forgot to mention it. I'm having trouble understanding why line 8 specifically gets connected to the filler neck. What's its specific purpose? Is it just so when I fill the tank full, the excess goes to the filler neck instead of the vent line? My tanksinc pump sits on the flat portion between line 7 and line 8 if that makes any difference here. My fender vent line is non existent, so I'm trying to figure out another solution. But thanks!
  24. nmehdikh

    Lowrider's 260z

    Thanks for the pics. I might copy your design for myself in the future if you don't mind.
  25. I'm going to be plugging my old feed, return, and vent holes off the tank and using the stuff from the new pump mount. What are my options for plugging the openings? Are there any fuel safe rubber caps? Or do I have to go with the bolt clamped into a fuel hose method? My datsun's mysterious history continues to baffle me. Started working on installing the fuel pump in the tank today. Cut open the top, cleaned it up etc. Found these guys rattling around inside the tank. No clue where they came from. Any ideas guys?