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Kevinbn7's Achievements


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  1. I just dealt with the same condition. Had a 1 inch wilwood that had a rock hard pedal and would not stop the car. Changed to the 7/8 and the brakes feel correct. I can actually get to the threshold of lock up and the car stops like it should. Bigger is not better in this case.
  2. I swapped the rear calipers made the new lines for the master to the switch block, bled the entire system and in a short time my son stated we have a pedal. Thank you Nigel for guiding me to the answer. Again, I'm embarrassed that it was so simple but that's the breaks. I've now driven a 240z that hasn't seen the sunshine.. since I don't know when. Now I start sorting to get it back to a completely drivable sports car. Kevin
  3. I just looked at the photos again. I'm a dumbass. An embarrassed one at that.
  4. Bleeders are above the inlet point but not high spot on the caliper. I can see how air could be trapped I looked at a handful of photos of this install. And this is how it showed. Let me get back in the garage this evening and re configure the mounting. Thanks Nigel for the lead.
  5. I must not have this posting figured out. I assume if I use the tab button it sends the post. Sorry about the above two posts. Here is what I have 1971 240Z i purchased from a craigslist add last fall. Over the spring and summer I have been resurrecting this car by going through the suspension, Brakes and drive line. The brakes I am using are the Toyota 4 piston truck calipers with solid rotors. The rear are the 240SX/Maxima on solid rotors. I assume the two are interchangeable as I bought the kit on eBay from Silver mine motors and am not sure what the calipers where originally destined for. The 1 inch Wilwood master that is part of this discussion. I bled everything per Wilwood and simply could not get the pedal from going to the floor. All calipers moved but it looked as if I just wasn't pushing enough fluid to get them all out far enough to clamp the rotors and stop the pedal travel. After a discussion with the Wilwood Tech we decided to swap to another master and try again. Z car depot sent the replacement and away I went. Same issue as before. Cannot get he pedal from going to the floor. At this point i am going to step back and do this as correctly as possible. Eliminate the metric/SAE adapters and build my own lines. Reroute the lines so the port designated with the F actually is managing the front brakes. On this car the front port of the stock master provided the pressure for the front brakes. On the Wilwood master the front port is designated for the rear brakes and the only port that had the rubber duckbill anti reversion valve in it. Wilwood tech line stated that port does move more fluid and is specific to the rear. I bought and installed the 7 inch brake booster from Z Car Depot. Made my own adjustable rod to contact the master. (it is touching but not pushing). I have as much pedal travel as the threads will allow inside the car. brake hoses are all new. I get fluid at all 4 corners. I've bled bottles of brake fluid through here but don't see much air coming out. One anomaly I want to bring up is on the when I had it hooked up with the rear port of the master providing pressure for the rear brakes the reservoir would lower the level with each pump of the pedal (stopped lowering after about 3 pumps) but when the pedal was released the fluid would be pushed back up into the reservoir like it was spring loaded in the rear system some how. Is this possibly compressed air? One of the above posts brings up the low drag design where the boot pulls the piston back. Is this what is causing the reversion? Any thoughts on how to ID the rear calipers would be great. I pulled this car from a barn after 20 years of inactivity. Any other things I should check, clean replace etc? Any and all input is appreciated. Kevin
  6. This looks like the correct thread to continue this discussion. Back Ground
  7. This looks like the correct thread to continue this same discussion. Background
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