240zdan
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Posts posted by 240zdan
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Damn I have the same problem, caliper makes a god awful noise when reversing when cold.
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I installed a chevy 1 1/8 master cylinder after getting a bad batch of remanufactured stock master cylinders. This was a fairly straight forward modification, however I would like to change the booster out for something larger. I currently have the toyota 4x4, 4 piston NON vented disc brakes in front, and rear Stanza single piston callipers with canadian 300zx NON vented disc brakes in the back. I do have the stock e-brake set-up and this works great with the stanza callipers, mabe a little more handle action over the stock drums but not much.
What I realy want right now is better brake pad materiel, something better for all this rain we get here in Washington!!
Must be insanely hard to squeeze those calipers with a MC that big!
Im running a 15/16 (I was lucky enough to find one at my local parts store for $60) and gtr 4 piston and s13 single piston put back. Brakes feel a bit mushy but not too bad, defineltey acceptable.
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Theres a pinned thread all about the Wilwood MC set up, pretty easy install.
Are you looking to do the rears next? What do you think the overall cost would be for the set up?
The problem with the gtr rears is the parking brake setup.
Besides looks there would be no advantage over using gtr rears as opposed to 240sx rears, which is what I have now. Therefore Im leaving the rears alone.
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it simple, there is no writeup to make really.
but heres the basics:
1: Rotor need to be bored out to fit onto 240z hubs and bolt pattern needs to be redilled to 4x114.3 (any m achine shop can bore out the rotors, redrilling can be done on a drill press)
2. Calipers need to be mounted to 240z spindles using an adaptor bracket
3. Braided brake lines that were designed for a z32 caliper swap for a 240sx ($60)
4. 15/16 or 1" master cylinder
Thats it
As far as the rear, I have the 240sx rear calipers for now so i havent mounted up gtr rears yet
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Hey all.. Just finished adapting some R32 GTR sumitomo 4 pot calipers and GTR double vented rotors to the front of my S30. Here are some pics (excuse the quality):
These brakes work amazing on the Z, pedal feel is acceptable although it would benefit from a 1" master cylinder (running a 15/16 right now)
They clear only 16" rims or larger.
Just seeing if theres any interest in people wanting to buy kits to install these brakes. I can make adaptor brackets as well as machine the GTR rotors to accept the 240z hubs.
Braided brakes lines for a z32 brake swap for a 240sx also need to be installed.
I know this has been done before but just wondering if anyone is interested in some adaptors.
Also, does anyone know of a 1" MC upgrade that is bolt on (or near bolt on) -
How is the 3076 a mismatched turbo?
GT3076r (GT30r) = GT30r turbine with 76mm compressor wheel exducer
GT3582R (gt35R) = GT35r turbine wheel with 82mm compressor wheel exducer
Not mismatched, just smaller over all. It all depends what he wants, if he wants more usable torquer and a fun street engine, go with a GT3076, if you want more peak power and drag race a lot, go with the gt35r. I personally have tried both in billet configurations and prefer the gt3076r, its great on the rb.
The GT2876R would be a "mismatched" turbo, or a t3/t4 60 trim with a .48 ar turbine housing for example.
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Hmm having tried both the precision 6235r and the precision 5830r on my rb26, I would say the gt3040 would be a bad combo, the turbine would just choke it at higher revs, and the larger compressor wheel would just introduce unnecessary lag. Hybrid turbos are silly if you ask me, I would say use your gt35r and stop trying to research like a mad man, way too many people spend way too much time researching junk like this instead of bolting on a turbo and driving it hard, the differences will be minor and you will be happy with the 35r and can always sell it and get a 30r if you find the 35r is too laggy.
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******* sick car!
I bet you get tons of attention driving down the road! haha
Consider the GTR diff for your rear end, I couldnt be happier with mine.
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Nice build! Looks very clean, love everything except the RHD conversion.
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Hell mine will brake loose just flooring it in 3rd on the stock turbos. Granted I dont have great tires but still.
Dont quite understand how this is possible. With stock turbos, 10 psi, and stock 14" tires with an open diff i could barely break loose 2nd. I was trapping 118mph in the 1/4 then so the power was there.
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Nice work on the swap. A couple of things I noticed:
We had to make a custom oil pan. We chose to simply cut off the upper flange that mates the pan to the block and rotate it 180 degrees and we weld it to the flange.Care to share the pictures of this?
The oilpan was built with the engine mounting angle in mind.
Flipping this pieces would result in a severely deformed oilpan possibly starving the oilpump.
In retrospect I would do the end tanks a bit nicer and smoother. BUT, these worked well and fitment was perfect. In the future we will make the end tanks differently. Don't beat us up here. We were given the intercooler by our customer because he was trying to save money and already had the intercooler himself!No endtank fabrication required here! All thats needed is a cast aluminum 3" elbow, a welder, and a saw.
We used a 3" core aluminum radiator made by CX Racing for the 300ZXTT. We did have to move the outlet to the passenger side and make the mounting points to from the radiator to the front radiator support.This is a crossflow rad. By doing what you have done you are basically pumping the hot coolant through the endtank. There are dual pass crossflow rads to solve this problem, or perhaps a stainless steel or aluminum lower rad pipe would be a wise choice.
Then our customer decided he wanted us to make all his gauges work however the OEM 240Z gauges will not work. The speedo is mechanical on the car and uses a speedo cable. The RB's trans uses a digital (voltage) signal to generate a speed sensor reading. They are not compatible. The same is true for the tachometer. Car's is analogue and engine is digital....I have ALL of my factory guages working in my rb swap. For the temp sender the stock rb26 one works.
OIl pressure, use stock L series sender
Speedo, GTR tranny uses cable speedo, some machining and it will stuff into the z32 tranny, not sure how it is for rb. I dont guarentee itll read right.
For tach, Use autometer or any cheap auto parts store tach (0-8k 270 sweep i think), Remove electrnics and needle from it and install into stock rb tach housing, use tach adaptor with rb ignition coil wiring. Viola!
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Well with that said you should know what your doing but in my motor and my wallet I'm going to want my tune a little on the rich side(11.0-11.2), Just for the unexpected. Now if I was chasing every little horsepower and lived in a perfect world it would be different .
It really is as simple as that.
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I believe bradyzq is stating all the things I would like a tuner to tell me when I bring my cars in. My personal experience is that in general the rb25det likes a fat enrichment in the upper rpm range under heavy loading. Like I said though I dont tune for a living, but I do have moderate experience tuning. Translation I am no expert! From what I do understand I would trust what he is saying. There are worse things than detonation at the AFR's Im talking about if its not done correctly. Every engine is different even if its brand new and the same designation and therefore might have different characteristics/tune needed.
I have mentioned it before on this forum, that I do not trust most in car wide bands. I use it as a reference, but place little to no weight on its numbers. Over the years I have used gas analyzers and or the wideband on the available dyno to do the tuning and as I have mentioned I have noticed that the in car ones do not calibrate up. I broke down and spent several hours trying to make sure that the on board wide band was correctly calibrated, responding within 2ms, not biased in some way, that I indeed was dealing with a proper ground system, and there were no exhaust leaks. That was fun and the only answer in the end was that the in-car wideband was not completely accurate. All that over a .5 discrepancy. My personal belief is that even though the wideband sensor was placed in a spot that seemed to be optimal it was not sampling directly in the flow during all times and causing slightly erroneous readings. Personally I like to calculate lambda from a 4 or 5 gas analyzer that has a proper filtration system and has to be calibrated on a schedule to know Im correct and it obviously has to sample from a good source(not a leaking exhaust system).
What I am saying is that he is giving sound advice. In most cases that kind of AFR will result in cylinder wall wash down. And for some RB's that may be the case. From my experiences with the rb25det on a dyno(again only moderate experience) I found that fattening the mixture up gained more power. Its very possible that a more experienced might very well be able to out tune my tune. Im getting great MPG out of my personal tune, but its not MPG that we should be concerned with. That is a by-product of an efficient tune on a an efficient vehicle.
BTW, I dont know anyone doing 5 sec pulls on dynos other than non-tuners trying to get a max output number.
5 seconds was an exxageration. Let it be 15 seconds, whatever, the point is the car is just doing "a pull".
Everyone has their own opinion and ways of doing things.
A tuner that tell me things like: Your tune isnt optimized under boost and youre wasting fuel, therefore well lean out the motor since the dyno told me to...
Or: The wideband readings arent accurate therefore it doesnt matter what the AFR is, the important part is the engine is responding well to my "tuning"
Or: Well do some BS mathematical equations to your IAT compensation chart, now go out and drive your car in the freezing winter or a hot summer day with your optimized 12.5 AFR tune and have fun. Better yet take it to the track and beat on it for 30 minutes straight dont even look at the AFR.
...Does not deserve my money or business. You as a "tuner" have to understand your customers and majority of the time are hard working individuals who saved lots of money for their expensive engines. Just because you get to play around with their investments on the dyno means you should make the tune safe, but still make power! If the customer requested a certain afr, lets say 12.5, then discuss with them the risks and proceed. (methanol injection or race gas is a different story) But for the most part you must understand the average person wont know too much about tuning, thats why they are bringing the car to you in the first place. That is my general opinion, take it or leave it.
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You should care because it means the tuner has not optimized the tune.
Thats a load of crap. Optimizing the tune for fuel milage is important for part throttle cruising and idle, but under full boost I couldnt care what it is. We arent building direct injection turbocharged sedans here that claim 50mpg.
Right, and I suggested that that is the wrong approach. You can do the fuel IAT compensation mathematically then tweak it for extremes and engine protection. IAT timing trim can be done however conservatively you like. At least the ECU will begin its compensations from a well-tuned starting point.Still guessing.
You really need to go out and drive the car year round to tune these as Ive discovered.
Please do not read into this that I am suggesting you run on the lean ragged edge "just because." That is as silly as running way too rich "just because."11.0-11.5 is not running way too rich. Im sorry.
I will proudly make the same power as you while using less boost, but an optimized tune.And I care why? 500+hp is already way too much power for a little datsun on the street. The only thing you will accomplish by making more power is
A. Greater chance of detonation. Leaner is faster, but more risky.
B. More internet brownie points since you posted a dyno graph that made a couple more horsepower.
Perhaps if you worked on the tune and went over everything with a fine tooth comb, it could be safe and reliable. I am sure you are a good tuner and know how to tune, but you have to understand alot of these guys are just treating this as a job and not a passion. The beauty of tuning a motor is you assume no responsibility, there is no guarantee.
The dyno, nor my Rice Krispies, would never tell me just to turn up the boost on an overfueled, under-advanced tune! I will proudly make the same power as you while using less boost, but an optimized tune. I will create less heat, and stress the engine and turbo less too. These are good things when on track or on highway rampages, and, ironically, actually help prevent knock.It meant to be a joke. It wasnt supposed to be related to this topic in anyway.
And what condition would that be?Doing a 5 second full throttle pull on the dyno is in no way the same as bagging on heatsoaked car on a hot summer day for 30 minutes, whether itd be on the street, or the track. I drive my car hard, and Im sure people who get their cars dynotuned are expecting to do so as well.
Hey everyone has their own beliefs and ways of doing things. To the OP, next time you get the car tuned, just tell the tuner to shoot for 11.5 and dont lead him into telling you that mid 12 afrs are fine because the engine made more power. Leaner is always going to make more power, but there are risks involved.
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More clarification:
Wideband readings vary, sometimes a lot. It also depends where they are mounted, and, if needed, how they are calibrated. Tailpipe probes may show leaner at low load, and if there is an exhaust leak.
And another reason to tune on the richer side. Why risk it?
Quality of pump gas is another reason.
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I'm not saying that the tune in the car is the best ever. Rather, that richening up the high boost areas by 10% just "because" when there are no hints of a problem and with unknown ignition and fuel trim tables, is not good. The result will be a loss in power and an increase in fuel consumption.
Im sure thats the last thing youre worried about in a car like this: fuel mileage under full boost. If a tuner told me he didnt think a bit of extra fuel was needed because fuel milage would suffer I'd tell him to get the car off the dyno ASAP and hand me the keys. I probably get 5mpg under boost, what do I care?
The reason I stated a slightly richer AFR would be beneficial is because I doubt the tuner tuned all the compensation tables to perfection. All it takes is that one condition to make the motor run slightly leaner and then detonation happens. I speak from experience. I would never trust a dyno tune fully. Take a motor that has been dyno tuned to a 12.3 afr onto a road course or highway rampage and you'll see what I'm talking about. Stuff changes. A dyno can never simulate "real world" conditions. This is why we back off timing a few degrees and add a bit of fuel. You are in control of the tune, not the car or dyno! The car responds to your changes and common sense. It doesnt "tell you what to do", and if it did it would probably tell you to turn up the boost!
As far as power loss, show me proof. I noticed no difference in power, a few hp a most. When youre running 500+ hp a few hp lost for reliability's sake is a good tradeoff.
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I wouldnt consider 11.0-11.5 "flooding the motor". 12.3 is borderline lean. There is no point running the motor that lean, it will just reduce the buffer zone of preventing detonation. If it were me id argue to the tuner the motor is running too lean for my liking and a AFR of 11.0-11.5 would be safer with pretty much the same power.
I am NOT a tuner but I have tuned my car and it runs fairly well.
I have yet to find a excellent "tuner" in my area. I want a guy who knows everything inside out, most tuners here are just guys who know how to operate their/someone elses dyno and know a bit about afrs and a bit about timing, as well as using a computer.
Another thing to consider: No dyno tuning can simulate real world conditions. My car showed no knock on the dyno, and proper afr. When I took it out on the street after tuning it knocked. I had to revise the tune. Temperature change also affected everything drastically. This is hard to simulate on the dyno,, temperature usually remains constant. IAT correction table must be well sorted.
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i like to run 11.0-11.5 but occasionaly ill see 10.8 or even a 12.0
your timing map looks good but why are you using the "all in" approach? if you look at your timing map the values are the same across the entire rpm range. you can actually start advancing after you make maximum torque, cylinder pressure starts decreasing and its safe to advance the timing. your timing map looks very similar to mine, i made 430whp@19 psi using similar timing values with 94 octane with just slightly less timing but almost identical.
i wouldnt play with timing though until you have the afrs dialed to 11.0
like stated a hot or even cold day, inaccurate iat correction settings and itll ping (ive had this happen, now i shoot for 11.0)
Also you wont gain much power by leaning it out from 11.0 to 12.2, if your concernced about the power lost just turn up the boost, but maintain the 11.0 ratio. its much safer for tuning/street/everyday use.
so to answer your question yes 12.2 is lean! i would be comftorable with that type of afr only with race gas or running meth injection, bu tnot with pump gas.
(even on my methanol 23 psi dyno 485whp i still shot for a 11.0-11.5 ratio though)
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heres the timing for the pump gas tune (17 psi) max load cell 22000
Heres timing for the methanol tune (22 psi) max load cell 24000
next mod is a downsizing the turbo (5830r) and trying to get a nice flat torque curve from ~4000 to redline, yet still make the same peak power!
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I see about 80% injector duty at 431whp
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nice ride!
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Nice numbers! I can't imagine what a Z with that much power is like, must be a beast!
indeed it is! keeps up with 600cc bikes no problem
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11.2-11.5:1
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From what i have read the stock fpr cant regulate the pressure from the walbro 255. I would try putting on a AFPR. That may be a problem later on. I think this engine is in a s13 if i remember correctly so the fuel setup shouldn't be a problem. I would agree with rs speed on the tps, that would be my first place to check.
i ran a stock regulator for a while with a walbro and stock ecu/turbos and had no problems. it ran a bit rich thats all. still revved out though
HKS GT3040 VS Garrett GT35R/GTX35R
in Nissan RB Forum
Posted
Id personnaly run a .82 ar on both the 30 and 35.
I have expermineted with a .63 and found that the reduction in lag is not worth the sacrifice in topend and midrange power.
the .63 is better suited for a small 4 cylinder such as a honda b18 or similar.
A properely designed manifold, free flowing exhaust, free flowing intake and porper tune will be more important than stressing over the ar.
The .82 will just make more power overall.
The gt3076 will be a fun turbo on your stock rb25. If youre interested, I may have some turbine housing I could offer up for cheap for both 30 and 35 wheels in both ars