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Everything posted by Ironhead

  1. Haven't done much on the car in a while, as I have been focusing on converting a room in my shop to a cheap half-assed redneck paint booth: Each 4' X 4' plywood box slows down the velocity of the ducted air and filters it through standard paint booth air filters. One box blows in fresh air, the other sucks air out. Then the air is ducted in/out of the shop. Motion is provided by two inexpensive Chineseium "explosion proof fans". Although they are identical, I knew the blower fan would
  2. I think it's because there are so many variables... I have the sort nose R200, but also an LS3 and T56. Even with that specific engine/tranny combination, driveshaft length will still vary depending on what engine mounts are used. If your car is completely stock except for the diff, someone might have measurements for you. But it does seem like the safest approach would be to mock everything up and take measurements. Most places that make custom shafts move pretty quickly.
  3. To help with the impatience (which I have as well) you can cool the metal with compressed air after each small amount of welding. This keeps heat from building in the panels and allows you to move forward much faster.
  4. Had to custom make a couple of offset interior door handles, as the stock ones would not clear the roll cage door bars. I knew this was going to be an issue, and initially planned to just use a couple of pull-cables to open the doors, but that introduced issues as well. Namely, the cable handles, unless very small, wanted to hang down and get caught when trying to close the doors. This was a bit more work, but hopefully a better long term solution. Basically they differ from stock only in moving the lever approximately two inches downward so they open freely below the door bars.
  5. No, I just buy them piecemeal here and there as I need them. Ordering in bulk wouldn't work because generally you only need a few of specific thread/pitch/length. In fact they come in five-packs...often that is even too many so I have a box with lots of spares. It seems inexpensive ordering a few here and there...but I imagine if I was dumb enough to tally everything I have spent on hardware it would be stupid money. Fortunately I am smart enough to never, ever do that....LOL.
  6. Very ambitious/impressive work! I look forward to seeing more.
  7. Made front and rear tow hooks: And a front splitter. The splitter is 1/4" ABS, which had the advantage of being affordable and available locally, so that shipping didn't kill me. I have a feeling this part (if I leave it on) will need frequent replacement. ABS also seems to have a good combination of adequate rigidity with some flexibility so that impacts "may" not always break it. I am starting to run short of tasks that still need to be done prior to starting painting. So, I need to construct some sort of
  8. You could just call Wilwood, Stoptech, or Essex Parts (AP Racing distributor), tell them the weight of your car, how you will be using it, and what size wheels the brakes need to go under. Budget will be a huge consideration too. Of the three Wilwood will definitely be the most affordable. AP and Stoptech components range from somewhat reasonably priced to astronomically expensive. AP Racing parts go all the way up to F1 components...you can imagine what that costs. Anyway, they could recommend compatible front/rear disc and caliper combos suitable for your use and budget. The
  9. Most of the aftermarket brake companies, be it Wilwood, AP Racing, or whatever manufacture calipers intended for front wheel applications, and others for rear wheel applications. The rear oriented calipers will have smaller overall piston area to give you a default "bias" that is in the ballpark for most cars. The bias is fine tuned/corrected with either dual master cylinders and a balance bar, or with an adjustable proportioning valve. Each method has strengths and weaknesses. In general racing/track cars would be best served by a balance bar, and street cars with an adjustable proportion
  10. Tiny steps forward.... I used small magnetic latches to position/hold down the inspection covers, since the fiberglass fenders deleted the stock parts. Made a simple "grill" to protect the radiator/oil cooler/air filter from rock/other debris damage. Parts are all stainless steel, because I initially planned to leave it unpainted. But, I dunno, it kind of looks like I am trying to prevent pigeons from roosting or something. I will probably have it powder coated black. Grill just bolts into the stock grill mounts.
  11. I'm using an electric power steering setup on my LS3 swap build. I am using the Hoke engine mounts, but with a modified Apex crossmember. The steering rack and shaft are not stock, but they run in the same place as stock, and are actually a bit bulkier than stock. You can see the shaft clears (barely) the base of the Hoke mount. Honestly, with electric power steering and the stock parts, it is completely a non-issue as all the power steering components are under the dash anyway. I can't say I am 100% excited with the "feel" of the EPS, but all I have done is power it
  12. Nice looking car. If I wasn't an idiot I would have just bought yours rather than spending years building my own... It surprises me a bit how little money these modified/swapped Z cars bring in. No way in hell that car could have been sourced and built for $21K. But that's true of all "resto-mods". I see modified muscle cars for sale at the various televised auto auctions....cars I know have well over $100K into them....hammering at perhaps $45-50K. It goes back to stock collector cars always being worth the most money.
  13. I have used alignment strings for years also. They are fairly easy and convenient once you have built the jigs for each specific car, but I consider fabbing the jigs to be a bit of a PITA.
  14. LOL...thanks for that. I wish that was my attitude.
  15. This is all pretty much my thoughts as well. But the seller is flakey, and I cannot find any way to contact Restored. It is hard to believe a composite shop could repair it for much less than the cost of the part. Any way you slice it, a lot of labor would be involved. Do you know of a shop in Nor Cal that does that sort of thing? I suppose I could dabble into CF work...but it requires vacuum bagging and all that...so....you know......F**K. I tell ya, my experiences with aftermarket Datsun body parts have, with the notable exception of Ztrix, totally sucked.
  16. Yeah, my Restored hood fits well. I'm totally satisfied with that part. The hatch though is really bugging me. I know I should just live with it, but I also know if I do the poor fit is going to bug the crap out of me.
  17. I thought about doing that, it would definitely be the best way to address the gap. The problem though, is that from then on the body would be "wedded" to an undersized hatch. I have no idea what might happen down the road, but a correctly sized hatch would no longer fit if for whatever reason I had to change out the current one. I could also extend the CF hatch all the way around its perimeter with fiberglass...since I am going to paint the hatch anyway...but it would be a crap-load of work and I don't really know how stable a CF/FG hybrid edge would be long term. Or I can say
  18. I got the rear hatch bolted in place to check fit. It went on OK, but the panel gaps quite frankly suck. I knew this was going to be an issue, because when I received it I took measurements and found it to be roughly .25" smaller than the stock hatch. So the fit is predictable....it "works" but there are huge (roughly 10mm) panel gaps. This all kind of pisses me off. I know CF can shrink during the curing process, but shouldn't the builder know this and compensate? If the common sense expedient of just making the part .125" or so over-sized was followed, the part could easily
  19. So...I am using the Skillard rear spoiler...and also a CF rear hatch. The Skillard wing uses adjustable turnbuckles to hold and set the angle of the spoiler. The turnbuckles are designed to attach to the stock hatch sheet metal, which is probably up to the task. The CF hatch however had paper thin CF in this area, that would flex with the slightest finger pressure, and I didn't think it was strong enough to support the aerodynamic forces pulling on the turnbuckles. At best I figured it would flex enough to crack the paint. So I started by adding six or seven layers of fiberglas
  20. Everything looks great, fantastic work. I wish mine was that far along.
  21. That's kind of what these lights are Max...they are the same standardized 7" lights like you see on motorcycles...although they do lack the indicators. As far as legality, the USA is kind of funny that way. Other than emissions laws, which this car is old enough to be exempt from, there aren't really that many laws that apply to one-off custom cars built by the owner. Almost anything can go on the road, there are very few laws that apply, and most of the laws that are there never get enforced. Basically I need headlights, brake lights, turn indicators, windshield wip
  22. Trackspec...the larger outer ones are part #U5512SHL, the smaller inner ones #U412SHL-B.
  23. Trying to wrap up a long list of small tasks to get the car ready to start painting... From the time I first assembled the fenders/bumper, the gaps circled in the picture below have kind of bugged me. I kept telling myself...you know..."fiberglass front end"...."racecar"....and other excuses to try to just live with them. I knew fixing them would be a bit complex because simple trimming or filler would not do it. Also, this time of year (cold) the fiberglass is taking a long time to adequately cure for sanding. After a couple people looking at the project said "what's with thos
  24. Well...my plan involved using thin enough ABS that it would follow the wheel well contour without having to be heated or molded....just sort of flex it in and screw it into place. I am pretty sure I can do this with 1/16", less sure about 1/8"....but the stock fender liners are 1/16" or less thick anyway... Is there something I am overlooking/am I going to have a rude awakening when I try this?
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