Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Donations

    0.00 USD 
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

  • Feedback


Ironhead last won the day on March 12

Ironhead had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

12 Good

1 Follower

About Ironhead

  • Rank
    Always Here

Profile Information

  • Location
    Nor Cal

Recent Profile Visitors

2216 profile views
  1. I haven't updated in a while because I have been spinning my wheels a bit. The photos of the painted hood here represent the second time I painted it. Hopefully the pictures are of adequate quality that the problem is visible.... "Tiger Striping"....which I guess happens when noobs without painting skills (me IRL) try to paint large horizontal areas. You can see faint light/dark "stripes" consistent with the motion of the spray gun. In my first attempt at painting the hood, this problem was obvious after I sprayed the base coat so I never cleared it. The second time, I couldn't see the striping after spraying the base and it didn't really show up until I had two wet coats of clear over it. It is not "super" obvious, but it is bad enough that I cannot live with it. So I am going to have to strip the damn thing and try again. I have read a lot about "Tiger Striping", and the causes of it. Typically it only really is an issue with metallic paints, one of the reasons I chose a solid color for this car. The thinking is that to get the striping with a solid color, either your technique or spray gun setup has to be really horrendous. I mean, I have no painting skill, but I think my gun setup is at least a "B" and my technique is at least a "C-", so I'm in sort of a quandary as to what is causing this problem. Once I get the hood stripped down, I might try painting the base coat with the hood vertical instead of horizontal, then put it horizontal for the clear coat since I have no real problem with runs spraying base, and I am definitely "run-prone" with the clear coat. Any of you with painting experience have any insight? I am spraying with the gun perpendicular to the surface, with roughly 75% overlap. Spray gun fan is adjusted so that gun sprays an elongated "egg" pattern. Thanks for looking.
  2. Yeah, you wouldn't believe in person how far off they are. How if fails to show up in a photo is beyond me... Thanks for the suggestion Jeff.
  3. I tell ya, this painting crap can be frustrating. You asked which color was the "true" color. I have not yet repainted the smuggler's doors, but I put one of them next to the door in order to illustrate how different the two colors are. I mean, what the hell? In the photo they look pretty much identical. Again, the smuggler's doors are a different color and type of paint from the doors, which are a base/clear. I tried to match them with color chips. In the photos, it looks like I succeeded, certainly close enough considering that the two colors won't really be right up against each other. But actually looking at the two colors in person, they are freaking miles off....not even close. How is this possible? How can the camera lie so horribly? I got the cowl piece painted. This is the fiberglass version from ZTrix. It came out uuhhh.."OK", I'm not planning to repaint it or anything, but a part like this is a different painting experience from steel panels. First of all, it is nothing but compound concave/convex curves (which would be true of the OEM panel as well), so I could not figure out how to block out the flaws. You cannot really use a straight sanding block on much of this piece. I had to modify it quite a bit to make it line up with the fenders and hood, so there was a lot of bare fiberglass that I had to re-gel-coat. Then I sanded the crap out of it with flexible blocks, epoxied it, then high build primer, a bunch more sanding, then sealer/paint/clear. Fiberglass, basically being plastic, likes to build static so I wound up with a lot of dust specs in the finish. Wet sanded the clear with a flex-block, everything looking good. Then when I buffed it out I saw there were a couple of waves on the part that were invisible until I got it really shiny. F***!!!! I don't even know where they came from...a sag in the clear?...or just a flaw in the fiberglass that was invisible until the part was buffed and glossy? Like I said, I don't see myself repainting it...but with the right reflection you can definitely see it. I tried to capture the right reflection to photograph it, but couldn't....I guess that's good. Frustrating stuff though. Getting this piece fitted/prepped/painted took several days. If I ever want to have a running car I will have to live with some flaws I suppose. I guess if you want a SEMA quality paint job there is no substitute for experience. I got a bunch of assorted brackets and hinges yellow zinc plated.
  4. Good question...complex answer... The paint on the doors is a standard two stage base/clear color. My plan was to use a tough single stage commercial fleet paint (Delfleet Essential) for the underside, engine compartment, interior, etc. The specific color code I am using for the exterior is not available in the Delfleet, so I attempted to match using color chips. This failed...the chip appeared an exact match, but once I sprayed the Delfleet on the smuggler's door and compared it with the two stage on the doors, it was miles off. Weird how that works. So, "the" color is what I painted on the doors. The smuggler's doors are either going to be covered in Raptor Liner or re-painted. I have switched to a single stage (Deltron DCC) for the underside, etc of the car that is available in the exact same color code as the two stage for the exterior. I sincerely hope it is a better match. Since one is a base/clear and the other a single stage, I am sure they will not look exactly the same, but they need to be closer than with the Delfleet..which is much darker, bluer, and more saturated than what I painted on the doors. Hope that answers your question... Thanks for the comments guys.
  5. Doors after multiple coats of high-build primer and a lot more block sanding: Painted, clear coated, wet sanded, and polished: They certainly aren't "perfect"....but I am happy with the result. Thanks for looking.
  6. Well, my plan is to skim coat/block the entire door (both), hopefully to correct all major discrepancies. Then I am going to put on several coats of high-build primer, switch from 80 grit to 220, and start using the guide coat at that point. I have the powdered guide coat, but I can't really use it at this point because it doesn't stick well to all the bare metal areas. We'll see how it goes....
  7. Thanks for the input. I had epoxy down before the filler also....it all just sanded off the "high" spots as I was block sanding the door. Even with the epoxy primer on the door, I could tell very little about how straight it was, as the primer had a fairly flat finish and I couldn't get any reflection off of it. Lots of technique to this stuff. I think (hope) I am starting to get it down. One thing I learned today....unless your sanding block is absolutely rigid like a piece of wood, you don't want to apply any significant downward pressure on it while sanding....just use very light pressure letting the paper do the work. I found if I pressed down much, the block would deform around high/hard spots rather than sanding them flat. I kept filling places, then sanding them, only to find it wasn't sanding flat despite the block. Through trial and error I realized I was pressing down too hard....
  8. I actually sprayed color on the storage bin covers....just to get an idea what it would look like....and because I could. This is the color the car will be. I have gone back and forth as to how much I liked it, but now I have bought paint...both single stage for the interior, engine compartment, underside, etc....and two stage for the exterior....so I am committed now. This IS the color.... I started bodywork on the passenger side door, because I thought it was pretty straight and would only need minor tweeks/sanding. The more I fiddled with it, the more high/low spots and flaws I saw....so I wound up skim coating the entire door with filler and block sanding the whole thing. This is the result. Let's just say it wasn't as straight as I thought/hoped. Either that or my blocking technique is screwed up. I consider it ready for primer now...so soon I should know. The pictures are a bit deceiving though...the thickest filler is perhaps .020"...maybe not even that....and most of the low spots could not even be seen or felt prior to the blocking. I am sure they would have been visible under a gloss coat of paint though... The driver's door is much worse...it will be interesting to see how it looks after this process.
  9. TTT stuff is fairly well documented, and I am using it in my build thread.
  10. Had I known that, I would have had the respect to keep my opinion to myself....LOL. But since I already stepped in it.... Doesn't the design introduce unwanted/unsprung/undampened "slop" and variable "windup" on braking into the movement of the rear suspension? I realize the rearmost "solid" portion of the control arm, combined with the strut, would contain most such movement. But that is only two points, it seems to me that the movable/adjustable portion of the control arm would have the same effect as an overly flexible control arm, introducing the unwanted/unpredictable movements described above....on a component wherein rigidity is the goal... I haven't had time yet to read the above link, which probably answers this question, but what is the advantage of this design vs two rigidly mounted heim joints for camber adjustment, something along the lines of the TTT rear control arms? ***Edit**** It sounds like you answered the question above....I will find time to read the thread.
  11. Yeah, it is so toe can be adjustable. The turnbuckle next to the heim joint would be used to adjust toe, then the angle of that piece would have to slightly change, requiring the heim joint. IMHO it is a poor design however.
  12. I don't mean to be a butt....but for those purposes any suspension would do just fine.
  13. All good information here, I would only add that if the relevant bars are properly padded with FIA or SFI spec padding, the danger they pose would be reduced somewhat. Hitting your head, helmeted or not, on a bar with FIA padding would certainly be no more dangerous than hitting it on the stock door frame, probably less so.... As others have said, these are small cars, and for larger drivers (like me) common sense decisions and inevitable compromises are necessary if we are going to drive them at all. I lowered the seat as much as possible, tucked the bars as tightly as possible, and will definitely pad all possible contact areas. Not much else one can do, but buy a Camaro or some other larger car. A "Halo" seat would definitely be a good choice on track only cars....probably not so much on cars that are still street driven. It is just a matter of minimizing risk as much as possible, then accurately assessing whether you are willing to live with whatever danger remains.
  14. Nothing infuriates me more than when you buy a product, bring up a legitimate issue with the manufacturer, and their response is: "Well, no one else has complained". That is a none too subtle way of saying: "You're an idiot, and I don't care what you think". There is ego, and there is business. It would be best for everyone if the two could be separated. I don't know the facts, but you would think if that many have sold, some documentation of a few of them would be on this forum. I do agree with their complaint about the original design of the T3 mount, but T3 now has an improved setup out that looks like a much better design. More money of course.
  15. Good to hear. If my "paint booth" turns out to be too tight for the car chassis, I will have to do something very similar... I know many have done it that way. I plan to lay the clear on in multiple coats, then wet sand and polish. This would probably minimize problems caused by a few dust specs anyway.
  • Create New...