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Ironhead

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Ironhead last won the day on March 12

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About Ironhead

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    Nor Cal

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  1. To help with the impatience (which I have as well) you can cool the metal with compressed air after each small amount of welding. This keeps heat from building in the panels and allows you to move forward much faster.
  2. Had to custom make a couple of offset interior door handles, as the stock ones would not clear the roll cage door bars. I knew this was going to be an issue, and initially planned to just use a couple of pull-cables to open the doors, but that introduced issues as well. Namely, the cable handles, unless very small, wanted to hang down and get caught when trying to close the doors. This was a bit more work, but hopefully a better long term solution. Basically they differ from stock only in moving the lever approximately two inches downward so they open freely below the door bars.
  3. No, I just buy them piecemeal here and there as I need them. Ordering in bulk wouldn't work because generally you only need a few of specific thread/pitch/length. In fact they come in five-packs...often that is even too many so I have a box with lots of spares. It seems inexpensive ordering a few here and there...but I imagine if I was dumb enough to tally everything I have spent on hardware it would be stupid money. Fortunately I am smart enough to never, ever do that....LOL.
  4. Very ambitious/impressive work! I look forward to seeing more.
  5. Made front and rear tow hooks: And a front splitter. The splitter is 1/4" ABS, which had the advantage of being affordable and available locally, so that shipping didn't kill me. I have a feeling this part (if I leave it on) will need frequent replacement. ABS also seems to have a good combination of adequate rigidity with some flexibility so that impacts "may" not always break it. I am starting to run short of tasks that still need to be done prior to starting painting. So, I need to construct some sort of makeshift paint booth, which will be a chore. Thanks for looking.
  6. You could just call Wilwood, Stoptech, or Essex Parts (AP Racing distributor), tell them the weight of your car, how you will be using it, and what size wheels the brakes need to go under. Budget will be a huge consideration too. Of the three Wilwood will definitely be the most affordable. AP and Stoptech components range from somewhat reasonably priced to astronomically expensive. AP Racing parts go all the way up to F1 components...you can imagine what that costs. Anyway, they could recommend compatible front/rear disc and caliper combos suitable for your use and budget. They could also suggest pedal/master cylinder setups...or you could just shop around after you decide on discs/calipers. I really like Tilton pedals and master cylinders. Coleman racing can machine custom brake hats reasonably inexpensively once you know what you need. I personally would go with floating discs in front, not so important in back because the rears generally see far less heat.
  7. Most of the aftermarket brake companies, be it Wilwood, AP Racing, or whatever manufacture calipers intended for front wheel applications, and others for rear wheel applications. The rear oriented calipers will have smaller overall piston area to give you a default "bias" that is in the ballpark for most cars. The bias is fine tuned/corrected with either dual master cylinders and a balance bar, or with an adjustable proportioning valve. Each method has strengths and weaknesses. In general racing/track cars would be best served by a balance bar, and street cars with an adjustable proportioning valve. The relevant data are combined (assuming multiple piston calipers) piston size for each front caliper, combined piston size for each rear caliper, brake disc diameter front/rear, and tire diameter. With this information, companies like Tilton Engineering can make sound recommendations for front/rear master cylinder sizes. None of this is rocket science, but there is a lot of data and arithmetic involved in sizing everything correctly. I agree with the prior post that many brake "upgrades" are actually not always true performance upgrades. People get away with just bolting on huge discs and 4-piston calipers on the front brakes only, because generally such a mod just dramatically increases front brake bias. Front brake bias is "safe" (it won't cause the car to spin), but many of these aftermarket front brake upgrades will actually increase stopping distance from stock. To do it right, brakes need to be a system involving front/rear, master cylinders, and proportioning systems. If this is done correctly, you can dramatically improve on the stock brakes in terms of weight, "feel", stopping distance, and fade resistance.
  8. Tiny steps forward.... I used small magnetic latches to position/hold down the inspection covers, since the fiberglass fenders deleted the stock parts. Made a simple "grill" to protect the radiator/oil cooler/air filter from rock/other debris damage. Parts are all stainless steel, because I initially planned to leave it unpainted. But, I dunno, it kind of looks like I am trying to prevent pigeons from roosting or something. I will probably have it powder coated black. Grill just bolts into the stock grill mounts.
  9. I'm using an electric power steering setup on my LS3 swap build. I am using the Hoke engine mounts, but with a modified Apex crossmember. The steering rack and shaft are not stock, but they run in the same place as stock, and are actually a bit bulkier than stock. You can see the shaft clears (barely) the base of the Hoke mount. Honestly, with electric power steering and the stock parts, it is completely a non-issue as all the power steering components are under the dash anyway. I can't say I am 100% excited with the "feel" of the EPS, but all I have done is power it up and test it as the car is not yet running. It reminds me sort of like the "dead" feeling over-boosted power steering on 1970s Detroit cars. There is a knob with the EPS to control the power boost, but it is less than perfectly linear/predictable. This is NOT a Silver Mine kit, theirs may well be different or better. My plan is to have a switch, power it on for slow speed maneuvering, and more than likely turn it off on track or at speed.
  10. Nice looking car. If I wasn't an idiot I would have just bought yours rather than spending years building my own... It surprises me a bit how little money these modified/swapped Z cars bring in. No way in hell that car could have been sourced and built for $21K. But that's true of all "resto-mods". I see modified muscle cars for sale at the various televised auto auctions....cars I know have well over $100K into them....hammering at perhaps $45-50K. It goes back to stock collector cars always being worth the most money.
  11. I have used alignment strings for years also. They are fairly easy and convenient once you have built the jigs for each specific car, but I consider fabbing the jigs to be a bit of a PITA.
  12. LOL...thanks for that. I wish that was my attitude.
  13. This is all pretty much my thoughts as well. But the seller is flakey, and I cannot find any way to contact Restored. It is hard to believe a composite shop could repair it for much less than the cost of the part. Any way you slice it, a lot of labor would be involved. Do you know of a shop in Nor Cal that does that sort of thing? I suppose I could dabble into CF work...but it requires vacuum bagging and all that...so....you know......F**K. I tell ya, my experiences with aftermarket Datsun body parts have, with the notable exception of Ztrix, totally sucked.
  14. Yeah, my Restored hood fits well. I'm totally satisfied with that part. The hatch though is really bugging me. I know I should just live with it, but I also know if I do the poor fit is going to bug the crap out of me.
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