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Ironhead last won the day on November 27

Ironhead had the most liked content!

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About Ironhead

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  1. It's designed for drifting...but if I ever use it for that you can shoot me.... It's just a rear emergency brake. It has its own master cylinder and only activates the rear brakes. It also has a line-lock lever downstream which you can flip to use as a (temporary) parking brake. The car has no proper parking brake. Basically I won't be parking it on steep hills unless I want to chock the tires. Honestly...one of the big reasons I included the handbrake is in case I ever need to get rolling on a hill....lol. You know...to keep the car from rolling backwards.
  2. Nevermind...a half dozen clamps, a lot of swearing, and perhaps 2-3 years off my life got the job done.
  3. So anyone who has installed this glass, was it a complete and total PITA? If I try to put it in dry, the friction with the rubber seal is so great that I cannot get it to seat far enough inside the hatch frame for the "string technique" to work getting the seal over the inner frame lip. If I lube it with detergent/water, it seats inside the frame adequately but then sort of pops out like a watermelon seed... Out of desperation, I am thinking of using woodworking clamps to hold the glass/seal sufficiently inside the frame while I try to work the seal over the inner lip. Any hot tips/techniques I am missing? My hatch is aftermarket carbon fiber....wondering it is simply a bit undersized and hence all the trouble....
  4. It probably won't help much, but I just wanted to add that my current setup is all Heim joints. I am going to run them, and if harshness and/or rapid wear become issues, I was going to try the r-joints as well.
  5. Here is the hole in question. Like I said, I am pretty positive it is not a rust hole, and to me it looks deliberate. I don't know what to think. I'm filling it.
  6. Few more photos of assembly, mostly related to the fuel cell, plumbing, and rear car wiring. Back up camera:
  7. Weird. There is no evidence there was ever rust there, so all I can guess is that it was a thin spot in the metal that was cut through when the car was media blasted, which really makes very little sense. I'll post a pic tomorrow. In the meantime I'm going to fill it in. Thanks for all the input.
  8. Do you remember seeing a small hole in the upper driver's side corner of the windshield frame? I am not referring to the drain holes on the lower frame...this would be a smaller hole, maybe 1/8" in diameter.... My car has such a hole, and I do not know if it is supposed to be there for some reason (can't imagine what) or if maybe it was made when my car was media blasted or something. Debating whether to leave it or fill it with seam sealer before putting in the windshield.... Like I said, I cannot imagine the purpose of this hole, but it looks pretty much perfectly round like it is supposed to be there. Thanks!
  9. It is very smelly when first applied, but I think that is primarily the carrier fluid which quickly evaporates.... After a few days I cannot really detect an odor to it, but keep in mind this is all in my shop which is full of various smelly chemicals.
  10. Since we all know how much Datsuns like to rust, I used no less than seven cans of 3M Cavity Wax and completely douched every blind spot on the car with the stuff. Primarily inside all the frame rails, and the rockers. I am also going to do the doors when I retrieve them out of storage. It spent a couple of days dripping wax. Then, after giving the car a week for the two-stage paint to harden a bit (it has remained very warm here) I carefully began final (I hope) assembly. No real rhyme or reason to it, other than trying to get all the difficult access bits attached while the car is still largely stripped. Very rewarding to have finally reached this point. Thanks for looking.
  11. I too just followed the SCCA rules. In my case 1.5"/.120" wall tubing, and .100" for all the reinforcing plates. IIRC those specs are good up to 2800# car. I sure as hell hope my car doesn't wind up heavier than that....but it could I guess.
  12. I know the factory Porsche 935s had an aluminum roll cage, but again, they were raced long ago. I wonder if the ones still participating in vintage racing have been retrofitted with steel cages...?
  13. I pondered the same thing, wondering if the floor is an adequately sturdy mount for seats. If you think about it, a seat is most likely to break free in a crash if the impact occurs from the rear. Then the entire weight of the driver will be slammed into the seatback, and the harness will do little/nothing to keep the driver/seat in place. In a frontal impact, nearly all of the driver's momentum will be captured by the harness with very little strain on the seat. Same with a roll-over. A side impact will be somewhere in between. This was my reasoning for installing a seat-back brace, this one specifically: https://www.bkauto.com/R_9020_Seat_Brace_Fixed_Back_Composite_Seats_p/r-9020.htm It bolts to brackets welded to the harness bar. Other than that, I welded seat mounts from square tubing that tie fairly securely into the frame rails, which really is the only significant source of strength in the floor pan.
  14. Great work! I'm sitting here kicking myself for not just going with the Ford diff from the beginning. Too late now. If it breaks I will go Ford then.
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