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Ironhead

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Ironhead last won the day on February 28

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About Ironhead

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  1. The "cup"...or bearing race...whatever you call it....has to be pressed in. That's what I was talking about. Your engineer friend sounds like a wise dude. Keep quoting him, I'm going to do what he says. If you're the least bit curious, check the brake disc runout with your aluminum hubs. I wager there's more than you want.
  2. Another point about the 5/8" bolt vs tapered stud: If you buy a quality bolt from a reputable manufacturer, you have a very reliable idea of the heat treating and strength vs brittleness of the bolt. With a tapered stud, I would probably trust one from Nissan, but do any come from Nissan anymore? Aluminum has its place for sure...however... I bought a set of 5-lug aluminum front hubs from one of the....uh....two places that sell them. They came with no-name (probably Chinese) bearings, and I had quality SKF bearings on hand, so I figured I would swap them before inst
  3. I'm using the Apex ones and selected the straight 5/8" holes. Just gives me way more options for spacing than the tapered design. It is often said that the tapered design is "safer".....but I dunno. The straight 5/8" bolt, with a proper first-time-used locknut, is not coming apart. MS365 locknuts are reasonably priced, and when installed the first time are hard to turn with a wrench. So many of these aftermarket parts are made of aluminum not to save weight or even because aluminum is appropriate, but rather simply because aluminum is VASTLY cheaper to CNC machine. IMHO alumin
  4. I have been trying to get all the suspension adjustments dialed in for the past couple of weeks. Kind of frustrating in front, as I'm sure you all know. Making one change affects everything else. Once I made all the changes necessary to get 6 degrees of caster, I found that all the angles changed sufficiently that it appeared to change the relative angles between the LCAs and the tie rods. So I had to quit dicking around and finally actually measure bump-steer. I found that my eye-balling of the relative angles of the LCAs and tie rods had been pretty close. To achi
  5. I don't have a dipstick, I just take the cap off and shine in a light. I can still see oil at the bottom of the tank, but it is very difficult to tell how much there is. I know the scavenge pumps move several times the volume that the pressure pump does, but it concerns me that there is a gallon or so of oil sitting in the pan on startup when the pan has no real volume capacity. On cars with really large 3+ gallon tanks, it would seem like enough oil would seep into the pan to hydro-lock the engine and blow it on startup. I mean, I know it is possible to blow an engine if it is
  6. No, it drains from the supply line at the bottom of the tank....the line that goes directly to the oil pump. As I understand it, since the tank is slightly higher than the pump/pan in virtually every dry sump setup I have seen, the tank keeps a constant slightly pressurized (from gravity) supply of oil at the pump when things are sitting. Since oil pumps have tolerances and such, gradually the oil seeps through the pump and finds its way to the pan. When the car is running or just shut off...the scavenge hose attachment to the tank is above the oil level, since it is
  7. I have a scavenge only dry sump system, still uses the stock pump for pressure. I did that because I would have to completely redesign my engine mount setup to use a three or four stage pump, and also because I didn't want to spend $5K on an oiling system. I already primed the system. Took out the plugs, filled the tank, the oil cooler and oil filter, attached a charger to the battery, and cranked it. It was quickly developing 35 PSI just from cranking RPMs (which seemed like almost too much....but anyway). One thing that is disconcerting...when the car sits for a co
  8. Not much, honestly. Old Recaros come on the market all the time, sometimes in new/newish condition, and I never see them bring much.
  9. The seats look like old school Recaros (two different models). As to the upholstery, unfortunately there are thousands of places that can recover a seat. I have no idea the significance of the "atom" symbol. Assuming the seats were...newish...when they were upholstered, it well could have been done decades ago.
  10. Very clean fab work there! Good idea taking the "floor" of the dry sump mount down below the frame rail. Mine is level with the frame rail, and simply will not take a 2 gallon tank, at least not unless I want to make a hole in the hood. I imagine you know this and planned accordingly. Good to see ARE is still in business. I tried to get ahold of them to make a purchase a couple of weeks ago. Didn't answer my call (during business hours) and didn't return my message. So I bought it from Peterson.
  11. I know nothing about the AIM PDM specifically, but I heartily endorse the PDM concept. It adds immense functionality and flexibility while actually simplifying wiring and implementation in practice. Using multiple old school gauges, fuses, and relays to wire a car is positively stone age in comparison. I am using a Motec PDM, and whenever AIM releases theirs I wager it will be every bit as good while also significantly less expensive. I'm curious...does the Terminator setup come with fully tuned maps for the various models of LS? One of the reasons I wonder is my las
  12. I wanted to second the recommendation for the KIA Sportage door weatherstrip.... I initially got the weatherstrip from Vintage Rubber. It fits fine, but is quite stiff and it is a &^%$#*&^ to get the door shut. The KIA part is much softer and more pliable. It results in a quite tolerable door shut effort even when brand new, and I'm sure it will soften even more over time. On sort of a tangent, it is really an eye opener how cheesy and poorly engineered things like weather stripping, seals, and trim pieces were 50 years ago as compared to modern
  13. I hope this isn't too much of a tangent, but I just wanted to say that those steel wheels are often underrated. I have used them in several applications over the years, and they are only very slightly heavier than good alloy wheels, inexpensive, and completely bulletproof. They aren't sexy, but are very useful.
  14. I don't think there is any question. Most of the aftermarket suspensions for the Z completely mimic the stock design, and just add a bit of adjustability to suit wide tires, lowered cars, track focused use, etc. They also include poly bushings and Heim joints to cater to drivers who want tighter handling and will tolerate more NVH than the designers at Nissan could have gotten away with designing into the factory car. I am using the T3 setup and that is definitely the path that they followed. The reason Apex is getting more scrutiny here is because they went a bit further than t
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