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Ironhead

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Ironhead last won the day on March 22

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About Ironhead

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  1. On a related note.... Since with the small front master cylinder I was getting too much pedal travel, I started to analyze possible ways to improve the situation. When I plumbed the brakes on the car, I used entirely AN-3 steel braided lines....no hard lines whatsoever. Many were of the opinion that this would lead to a soft pedal. I started to wonder if this had something to do with my excessive pedal travel....if the AN3 lines were expanding under pressure, they would certainly contribute to the problem. I had a lot of hardware left over from plumbing th
  2. Very sorry to hear this. A rebuilt diff and Quaife....you must be out something like $3K? That's horrible.
  3. I've been having trouble getting the brakes adequately set up. Based upon tech advice a few years ago from one of my suppliers of parts, my starting master cylinder sizes were .612" front and .812" rear. The problem with this combination, is that the front cylinder moves so little fluid into the relatively large front caliper pistons, I get a ton of movement of that side of the bias bar. Conversely, the larger rear master cylinder, moving much more fluid into the relatively small rear caliper pistons, barely moves at all. The consequence is that the balance bar gets massively a
  4. Great input guys, many thanks. I think what I will do is take the damn splitter completely off while breaking in the car and ironing out bugs. Driving on the road, damage is inevitable. Or just leave on the ABS one until it destructs. Looking at the photos, I think even with six turnbuckles, the ABS still would not hold up.
  5. This is the smallest size that they have that would work....https://www.flatironpanelproducts.com/store.html?model_number=AHP-04038--B-250, unless I made it out of multiple pieces....which I guess I could. That's still less than a CF sheet that size. This stuff would work well....but DAMN....$$$$$$: https://www.mcmaster.com/sheets/composite-fiber-aramid-honeycomb-panels/ (they also are not "rated" to use outside) Even regular fiberglass sheets are expensive in the needed size...not to mention I'm sure shipping would further the pain: https://www.mcmaster.com/sheets/fi
  6. I've been driving the car around a lot to get a feel for it, break in the moving parts, and iron out all the bugs. Among the bugs, the 1/4" ABS is not really stiff enough to use as a splitter. In the picture below you can see that it is already deforming in the areas not supported by the turnbuckles....and I have not yet driven the car over 80 MPH. It's kind of a quandary: The part is going to take a lot of damage and need to be replaced often, so CF would be too expensive. Maybe a flat piece of fiberglass will be my next move, not sure. I know some use plywood too. In the sh
  7. Sorry D1t...I don't completely follow. Did you precisely ream the TTT control arms, or arms of your own construction?
  8. If your "Z" turns out similar to mine, you will find it equally unrefined. I'm actually a bit surprised how hot it gets inside. I have Lizard Skin temp control on the inside, and reflective heat shield in the trans tunnel, and it still gets really warm inside. Let's just say, a heater is unnecessary. I guess just a function of too much engine/HP/exhaust in too small a space. It's all good though. I knew I wasn't building a luxury car.
  9. Dude! We're in Cali....I drive my project cars in the winter more than the summer.....LOL. As far as the steering....keep in mind that in addition to the 275 tires....I also have a significantly quicker than stock rack (can't remember the ratio)....the shorter Apex steering knuckles.....and 6.5 degrees caster. The steering is go-cart quick....maybe a bit too much, really.....but even once up to speed it takes a lot of effort to turn the wheel. My initial plan was to have the power steering go off at 15 MPH....but after driving it.....nope....power is staying on. I thought I wou
  10. I really like your design for the hub uprights. While there is nothing inherently wrong with the TTT ones, they are needlessly heavy, and in fact I have noticed on their website that they now have a new design with a lot of metal removed to reduce weight. Yours look even lighter. Part of me hates seeing better designed parts, because it makes me want to bin mine and trade up. But I have to stay the course or this damn car will never be "finished".... Just a few notes about the TTT rear control arms/uprights....and I think would apply to your design as well.... I hav
  11. I've had good luck with Z car depot, bit I guess all businesses drop the ball from time to time. It is important to remember that many/most of these Datsun parts sellers are one-man operations. It doesn't give them much flexibility if they get busy or things go wrong. Many of them drop communication first when they get busy, which is 100% the wrong thing to do. TTT is definitely an exception. I've been in there several times over the past 4 years building my car, because they are only 30 minutes from me. At first it was a quiet shop with perhaps 3-5 people working. Now they a
  12. Very interesting project. I for one would like to see some higher res photos posted. Hard to discern details with the size you are using.
  13. Yeah, Honestly today what it really boils down to is whether you want to buy US made or Chinese. The US machines are significantly more expensive. Many life long hardcore welding experts will say the US machines are the only way to go in terms of long term quality and reliability, and that the Chinese machines won't last. But many also say that about Snap On tools, and I know that's no longer true.
  14. I have a Miller Diversion 180. It's been great for my needs....but it has limited features and still runs about $2K...so I'm not sure it's exactly a great bargain.
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