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Ironhead

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Ironhead last won the day on December 25 2019

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About Ironhead

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    Nor Cal

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  1. Everything looks great, fantastic work. I wish mine was that far along.
  2. That's kind of what these lights are Max...they are the same standardized 7" lights like you see on motorcycles...although they do lack the indicators. As far as legality, the USA is kind of funny that way. Other than emissions laws, which this car is old enough to be exempt from, there aren't really that many laws that apply to one-off custom cars built by the owner. Almost anything can go on the road, there are very few laws that apply, and most of the laws that are there never get enforced. Basically I need headlights, brake lights, turn indicators, windshield wipers....I think fenders...and not too much else.
  3. Trackspec...the larger outer ones are part #U5512SHL, the smaller inner ones #U412SHL-B.
  4. Trying to wrap up a long list of small tasks to get the car ready to start painting... From the time I first assembled the fenders/bumper, the gaps circled in the picture below have kind of bugged me. I kept telling myself...you know..."fiberglass front end"...."racecar"....and other excuses to try to just live with them. I knew fixing them would be a bit complex because simple trimming or filler would not do it. Also, this time of year (cold) the fiberglass is taking a long time to adequately cure for sanding. After a couple people looking at the project said "what's with those gaps?" they started to haunt my dreams and I knew I had to get off my lazy ass and fix them.... I ordered some 1/32" G10/FR4 and bonded it to the inside of the fender as sort of a backing: Then carefully sanded down the outside of the fender to make a gradual taper to "zero"....to provide a place for the fiberglass to bond to: Then added four or five layers of fiberglass: After sanding and trimming, I'm happy with the result and glad I did it...I think it looks a lot better. I honestly don't know if this was the "correct" way to extend a piece of fiberglass, but it seems like it worked and the result is quite rigid and seems as strong as the original edge: As can be seen, I also modified the fiberglass to allow the use of the stock headlamp buckets. This was kind of involved as once the flat panel is cut out to allow the buckets to fit in place, the outer section of fiberglass prevents access to the screws to fasten the headlamp retaining rings. The only solution I could conjure was to sand out the divots/recesses in the fiberglass to serve as ports to put in the screws. This required greatly thickening the back of the part with layers of fiberglass in each spot, or the "divots" would have cut through the fiberglass and been "holes". I suppose this would have served the purpose, but it would have looked like shit IMHO: The headlamps are Morimoto Super 7 LEDs. They are kind of interesting in that there is no high/low beam circuit. They are always "on" full bright, but when on low beam there is a metal shield on a servo motor that moves and covers part of the LED to provide a low beam pattern and prevent blinding oncoming traffic. I realize the turn signals won't win any style points. But...I needed to include them....and couldn't come up with any clever/stylish way to incorporate them....so I just sort of "did it". The light bar probably won't be installed most of the time. It is easy to unbolt, and might lessen incoming cooling air somewhat. But this will be a street legal car, and I thought it might come in handy for nighttime canyon drives...or something. I have one of these on my DD Subaru, and once you have used them on dark roads it is hard to be without one. The light they put out is incredible... Thanks for looking.
  5. Well...my plan involved using thin enough ABS that it would follow the wheel well contour without having to be heated or molded....just sort of flex it in and screw it into place. I am pretty sure I can do this with 1/16", less sure about 1/8"....but the stock fender liners are 1/16" or less thick anyway... Is there something I am overlooking/am I going to have a rude awakening when I try this?
  6. I'm planning on making my own out of either 1/16" or 1/8" ABS. I haven't done it yet but it looks like it will be fairly simple (famous last words)....
  7. Moving forward at a glacial pace, but I did manage to add an aluminum stiffener to the bottom of the air dam, to tie everything together and keep the fiberglass parts rigid. This plate was going to be the attachment point for a splitter, but I have a nagging feeling given my intended use, a splitter might be more of an PITA than it's really worth. Ground clearance is going to be an issue already.
  8. I installed them on my early '74 260z. In my case, I plug welded them. Most of these cars have bowed /damaged floorpans. I found that by drilling holes through the floor/stock rails/Bad Dog rails, I could use M5 bolts to draw it all tightly together. This pretty much straightened out my floor pans and the stock rails. IIRC correctly, I made plug welds every inch.
  9. I don't know the car, but I am in California. Do you by any chance know what city it is supposed to be in?
  10. Thanks much for the input. I'm not too worried about the edges of the splitter hitting in a corner and unloading the front wheel, just because the outer edges of my splitter plate would not be supported by anything more than fiberglass. If it hit the roadway the splitter edge /fiberglass would flex upward before significant "unloading" of the tire could take place. My "rigid" support structure would only be supporting the splitter more under the center of the car. But I have no doubt in such a contact with the road the splitter would be bent/possibly destroyed... Just so I understand....you are talking about mounting the splitter plate on a hinge, and only connecting it to the bumper with some sort of flexible material to block the wind? So the splitter could hinge and move upward with any impact, while the air dam/bumper remain stationary?
  11. Great work and mucho respect for taking that car on. I think I would have run screaming from it. Lots of rot.
  12. Sorry...having trouble visualizing. If the splitter could hinge upward, wouldn't the bumper have to move upward equally? And the fenders? You have any photos of how you tackled this?
  13. Very much so.... The car is going to have ground clearance issues already, and while the splitter won't be much lower than other parts of the car, the further forward it is from the front axle, the bigger clearance problem it will become. One of the reasons I only want it installed for track events. Unless I don't understand your question....?
  14. Finished the bumper/splitter mount. I know it looks like an over-engineered monstrosity, but it actually weighs less than 10 pounds. My plan is to bolt a piece of 3/16" aluminum to this framework, which will follow the contour of the bottom of the bumper to reinforce it. The splitter will attach to this aluminum plate, not sure yet what the splitter itself will be made of. I want to do it this way because the splitter will obviously be prone to damage, and I wanted it to be as simple and cheap to replace as possible. Also, the car will see some street driving, and ...I dunno....driving around with an aluminum knife blade sticking out the front of the car seems maybe a bit...uncool. Finally, the splitter is bound to exacerbate problems with speed bumps, curbs, etc. Basically I wanted the splitter to be easily removable without having to take the entire front of the car apart, and only have it installed for track events. I wanted to use carbon fiber for these large sheet parts....but if you have ever priced 3/16" CF roughly 30" X 70"....you will understand why I went with aluminum.
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