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Ironhead last won the day on July 6

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About Ironhead

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  1. I included an "H" in my heater hoses so the coolant would still flow through when the heater (defroster, really) is not in use. Beyond that, I might have given the wrong impression about the engine's cooling status. After moving the oil cooler and sealing the radiator area from "leaking" airflow, I took the car out and drove it hard in mid-90s weather and things stayed cool just fine. I was surprised by how much the fans were running...but that isn't really a problem in itself....that's why it's there. Would the car cool adequately during a 100+ degree tra
  2. No, ECU is stock GM part. I think there is software you can buy to allow tuning some aspects of it, but tunability was not GM's intent. The one thing I learned about tuning, is that you really need to learn to do it yourself. Doing it right is extremely time consuming and tedious, most of the professional "tuners" around know little more about it than you do, and unlike you they are not willing to put in the time. Also, any slight engine change, even as small as a different air filter setup, will require some re-tuning if you want the car to run its best. Constantly
  3. I drove it yesterday in 94 degree weather. Temp stayed good, but cooling fans were going on A LOT, even when car was at speed. Fans go on at 203 and switch off at 196. Not sure, but still seems like it points to inadequate airflow, although no matter how good airflow through the radiator is, the fans would still increase it by creating a low pressure zone behind the radiator. Obviously I couldn't duplicate track conditions on public roads, but I drove it pretty hard. Honestly, I'm not sure though that I will even track this car in warm weather. My home track (Thunderhill) get
  4. Finished the revised oil cooler installation. I thought it would be a one or two day job, took me about a week and a half. Basically the (new) cooler now sits in the gap between the undertray and bottom of the radiator support. This should get tremendous airflow, without in any way disrupting or heating the airflow to the radiator. As a side benefit, this location also blocks off a major spot where a lot of the airflow that would otherwise go through the radiator could previously escape. I installed a "T" fitting in the lower line to use to drain the co
  5. Holy crap. That is beautiful, clean work.
  6. Anyone else find this site and its pages to be balky and often very slow to load? I'm trying to figure out if there is an issue with my computer or something specific to the site. Thanks.
  7. Holy Crap. Time warp. I read that book in high school in the (I don't even wanna say what decade) when I first became interested in cars. You jogged something in the back of my mind, otherwise I had forgotten it even existed. I vaguely remember racing cars with drum brakes, things like that in the book.
  8. Good idea. I also definitely think the first place ducting would be of benefit is where you suggested above, to prevent air from slipping down and below the radiator. Currently, the hood should keep most air pressure from escaping upward, and the sides of the chassis create sort of natural "fences" to keep airflow from escaping to the sides....downward is the biggest problem (I also need to plug the passenger side cabin fresh air intake hole).
  9. Will do. I think Ron Davis' advice is pretty much something that I should have followed from the beginning, and which I knew I should have followed, it's just sort of a PITA to actually do, so I let laziness prevail. I am starting off by moving the oil cooler and sealing the airflow gaps around the radiator with adhesive backed polyurethane foam. Then I am going to test it and see how much improvement is noted. If it still gets too warm, next step is going to be increasing amounts of aluminum ducting to further force the air through the radiator. I'm just hoping
  10. The radiator is a two row, 1.25" tubes, dual pass, 2.50" core. It has two huge Spal fans, but it seems more like airflow at speed is the issue. It holds temp very well at low speed and idle. I am going to start out with relatively simple ducting, and keep testing to see when adequate cooling is achieved. First step is to use some adhesive foam strips to seal the top and bottom of the radiator so air won't flow around the core.
  11. Agree that front end air ducting would definitely help. Putting the oil cooler behind the radiator would require massive modifications to the build in my case, as with fans and radiator plumbing there is almost no room. What do you think about a wide/short air-oil cooler in the opening in the air damn? That would clean up the flow to the radiator and also offer unobstructed airflow to the oil cooler...
  12. Took the car out in 95 degree weather a couple of days ago, and it wanted to over heat. Nothing catastrophic, but it started to get a bit warm when driven hard and I question it's capacity to withstand a warm day on track. My oil cooler location seems like an obvious first place for improvement. It clearly impacts airflow to the radiator, particularly once the oil is hot and the air passing through to the radiator is going to be very warm. There are a thousand other places I can put an oil cooler...and I figure it is time to experiment. The only real problem is that I will prob
  13. I didn't. I've read several opinions that the Tri-Y design is likely to offer benefits over 4 into 1 on LS engines, but this was really a "how can I make things fit better" exercise rather than a quest for more power. I too would be curious about the differences between each design, but nowhere near curious enough to actually do it. The headers can be swapped with the engine in the car, but it requires some dismantling on both sides and is a bit of a PITA. Also, the 4 -1 headers won't mate up with the updated downstream exhaust.
  14. "Tri-Y" headers finished. Completed exhaust installed. So a few weeks work and I-don't-even-want-to-tally-how-much-money to gain an inch or so of ground clearance. I think maybe I have lost my mind.
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