Jump to content
HybridZ

Ironhead

Members
  • Content Count

    508
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    18
  • Feedback

    0%

Ironhead last won the day on July 6 2021

Ironhead had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

23 Excellent

1 Follower

About Ironhead

Profile Information

  • Location
    Nor Cal

Recent Profile Visitors

3405 profile views
  1. Great work! Just think how much more fun/simple/satisfying old cars would be to tinker with if it wasn't for rust: Either having to detect/access/repair rust or do things to prevent it.
  2. I used Trackspec vents on my build, not exactly the ones you mentioned, but I think they are all pretty similar. I think they are great. No complaints at all.
  3. I have a 260z, not a 280zx, but on my car at least I much prefer a larger diameter wheel, similar to stock. There are several 380mm wheels on the market, from OMP and MOMO at least. I don't know exactly what it is on these cars, as I am more used to wheels in the 330mm range. But I tried those on the Z and did not like them. Much better feeling of precise control with the larger wheel.
  4. That's a tough one. Based on what you have done, I would conclude the noise is coming from somewhere besides the diff, but I am sure you have already investigated that possibility? I know bad bearing howl can be quite difficult to pinpoint. Any chance you have a fried wheel bearing? Could the noise be from the transmission? Apologies if these are stupid questions, but it sounds like you have addressed potential diff problems four times over....
  5. I know this isn't what you asked, but for fender flares I would use rubber well nuts. https://www.mcmaster.com/well-nuts/ They seal the holes without damaging the paint, allow for a bit of misalignment (much more than rivet nuts), and IMHO are much easier to use. I have used a lot of rivet nuts in various applications where there is no better option, but find them pretty temperamental in the sense that they always like to spin and have to be drilled out and replaced. Well nuts also have the advantage, that in any sort of collision they will shear off rather
  6. One of the things in my experience that makes older cars unreliable is corrosion in the electrical system, primarily the connectors. You can track down all sorts of elusive and intermittent electrical gremlins, only to find the corrosion was the issue. It is never ending, because once corrosion has begun, cleaning it off only seems to provide a temporary fix and it returns. I have found once you re-wire the car (assuming you do it "right") all the nagging glitches and issues disappear.
  7. I used a Tilton pedal box in mine. Hard to recommend this approach unless you have the dash area of the car pretty much completely dismantled. You are going to have to weld in structure/brackets to support pretty much any aftermarket pedal setup.
  8. I know what you are saying for sure....the inclination is to cut out as little metal as possible. But where there are pinholes, there will be pits, so the surrounding metal that is not pin-holed will be massively thinned and weakened from the corrosion.... Working on my shell, I found myself making larger and larger patches. It just seemed to work better than trying to fill pinholes or using a large number of smaller patches.
  9. I don't know what your skill level is at TIG welding, but if you can do what you propose, it would be a good repair. I can tell you that using TIG on the thin Datsun sheet metal....particularly when it is even thinner from corrosion, is very difficult. Even at 20 amps, burn through will happen extremely quickly. If you can pull it off, you are way more skilled than I am. I found the best way to remove pinholes was to cut out all the corroded metal and weld in a patch. But that's just me....
  10. If the issues continue, that will definitely be the next step. The belt is obviously "mission critical" and I am tired of dicking around with it.
  11. I have been driving this thing longer and longer distances, trying to correct all the bugs and other things that I didn't like. Some of the issues: After 50 or 60 miles, it would shred the serpentine belt. I found that the tensioner was approximately .12" out of alignment with the other pulleys. This was strange since the tensioner is a GM LS3 part, but I shimmed it a bit and solved the shredding problem. Then it started throwing the belt. I switched to a belt a couple of sizes smaller (shorter) and that problem seems solved. I had minor leakage around t
  12. My freakin car is half Ztrix, and I agree their parts are great, particularly considering the offerings I have seen from some other suppliers of Z body parts. For a show car, even the Ztrix parts are going to require a lot of work. But for a track/racing car, you can pretty much just paint em and go.
  13. Respect, Rossman. Too many on the internet just double down or remain silent when they realize they might have been mistaken. It takes a big person to admit they were wrong. It takes a bigger person to laugh at that person.....lol.😄
  14. I included an "H" in my heater hoses so the coolant would still flow through when the heater (defroster, really) is not in use. Beyond that, I might have given the wrong impression about the engine's cooling status. After moving the oil cooler and sealing the radiator area from "leaking" airflow, I took the car out and drove it hard in mid-90s weather and things stayed cool just fine. I was surprised by how much the fans were running...but that isn't really a problem in itself....that's why it's there. Would the car cool adequately during a 100+ degree tra
×
×
  • Create New...