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Ironhead

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Ironhead last won the day on March 4

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About Ironhead

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  1. Last week or so have felt like I am spinning my wheels. I am trying to finish plumbing the engine, and doing a lot of "what will fit where" experimenting. I got the oil cooler installed and plumbed, and installed the coolant overflow tank in front of the radiator, just because things are getting really tight in the engine compartment and I could not find a location for it. The "heater hoses" are installed but are really just providing heat for a defroster/demister. I had to re-route the radiator hoses, as I realized the prior routing would not have allowed room for 4" intake tubing, which seems to be the recommended size for the LS3. About the only "plumbing" item left is the breather can and breather hoses...unless I find other items which interfere with each other....which I am sure I will. Then I have to tackle building headers....which I am more than a little apprehensive about successfully pulling off. Thanks for looking.
  2. I am for sure going to run them off a thermostat, to go on at around 190 degrees. But, I probably will install a manual switch as well...not 100% sure yet. I am not going to stagger them at all....either both will go on or neither.
  3. All I have really done the past couple of weeks is work on installing the radiator and plumbing the coolant and oil lines. The radiator is a Ron Davis unit. He said he already had a template for a Datsun Z/LS swap radiator. I told him I wanted the biggest radiator that would fit, just to hopefully prevent any future cooling problems. I should have been careful what I asked for. The radiator does fit, but it has to be installed absolutely perfectly or it hits the frame rails, or the fill cap hits the underside of the hood. And the hose fitting interferes with my passenger side strut tower brace which had to be "clearanced". I finally got the radiator installed, but it took a lot of fiddling. It clears the frame rails by less than 1/8" on each side. If I was doing this all over again, I would have passed on using AN hose and fittings for the radiator hoses. The AN20 fittings are just too bulky and expensive. They eat up too much of the available room between the front of the engine and the radiator fans. I got everything to go in, for the time being at least, but I am rapidly running out of space in the engine compartment. The oil lines were a similar drill, trying to route them so they use up as little space as possible and allow as much clearance as possible for the exhaust. Thanks for looking.
  4. So, in this thread: https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/129738-someone-please-refresh-my-memory/ I was inquiring as to whether or not I could remove the horn brackets, as I forgot what they were for. When others confirmed they were for the horns....they were destined to be gone...because they are in the way of my oil cooler plumbing. So I figured, easy job, good access, just three spotwelds on each bracket....I'll just drill them out then remove the brackets. That way I can save them if for some lame reason I decide I need them after all. No sign of trouble ahead. Well, I dunno, something about spot-welding relatively thick steel or something. My spot weld drill-out bit got partway through the metal, then hit a patch so hard it might as well have been glass. Seriously, the bit would just spin without removing any metal whatsoever. I tried a different bit, same result. And, there was way too much metal remaining to just pry or otherwise force them off. So, all that remained was to grind the damn things off. I hate grinding metal...you know...loud, makes a mess that gets everywhere, that sort of thing. But what else could I do? Funny how jobs that appear easy often wind up being a serious PITA. I know all you fellow car dorks understand.... PSA: If you find yourself having to do something like this, I found that a 36 grit flapper disc removes metal MUCH faster than a grinding stone. I would have assumed the reverse. Sorry for the rant/tangent.
  5. What I did/will do was this: I drilled drain holes in the low spots of the Bad Dog rails, directly below where the OEM rails had the drain holes. Then I sprayed the inside of the Bad Dog rails with epoxy prior to fitting them. That should leave only the weld areas to have bare metal. This might be a bit anal, but I am going to use a small brush with Rust Bullet or a similar product to get the cracks and crevices from the outside around the welds, where epoxy won't spray in well. Then a coat of epoxy, and seam seal the cracks on top of the epoxy. Then paint/undercoat. Then do the insides of the rails with Eastwood inner frame paint. Then, if I feel really anal, SEM cavity wax on top of that. MIght be a bit much...but none of these steps are particularly expensive or time consuming...figured I might as well do all I can to prevent future problems. As was stated earlier, these cars have so much layered metal and moisture traps, it's a wonder they haven't all rotted away to nothing. I have noticed in many places though, that the factory spot welds were done right through the factory yellowish primer. It looks nothing like standard weld-through primer, so I have wondered what sort of formula it was. I have very little faith in rattle can weld-through primer. Even though it is "weld through", it is so darn fragile I think on balance you are better off just using epoxy and cleaning it off the small areas that need welding. There is no perfect answer. So I probably won't drive the car in the rain....LOL
  6. Thanks guys, you rock! Now I am going to ditch them without hesitation.... Kind of surprising really. Those are heavy metal brackets with dual M8 threads on each. Seems like overkill to mount horns....
  7. It looks factory...standard spotwelds and M8 weld nuts. I too perused the 'net and could not find them on other cars... Screw it....I'm takin them off. If it turns out to be a mistake it'll be easy enough to replace them. Thanks much for the input.
  8. My car has been apart for so long I cannot remember... My car is a '74 260z. What attaches to the bracket I have circled in the photo? There is an identical one on the other side. They are sort of in my way, and I was about to remove them, but I can't remember what they do... Can anyone with a decent memory or an intact car help me out? Thanks!
  9. I honestly think these parts are pure bling....which is ok....but I don't see any performance improvement they would provide at all.... It seems to me there would be more benefit if they designed a part that tied together the rear control arm bushings, since they sit out somewhat cantilevered away from the body, I could see where there would be relative movement between them when loads are introduced. Even then, the benefit would be minimal, since the TTT conversion already has the "dog bone" tying them together. It would primarily be lateral movement rather than fore and aft movement, and these TTT parts seem designed only to address the fore and aft. As someone else mentioned, the control arm bushing mounts are tied pretty solidly together fore and aft by the control arms themselves. I think TTT knows that if they crank out cool, machined, anodized aluminum parts that bolt right into place, people are going to buy them just for the bling alone....without really thinking through whether there will be actual performance benefit. IMHO, these parts are a perfect example of that. I could see some appeal if the replacement front cross-member was at least designed to facilitate a dual exhaust....but it isn't.
  10. Fantastic work on a very ambitious project! Glad you are back in shape to continue.
  11. Just the latest (and hopefully last) iteration of my FPR install and plumbing.
  12. I got the transmission installed in the car. I am using the Hoke cross-member and tranny mount, but since I have the car stripped I figured it made more sense to weld in the support plates rather than use the bolt in Hoke units. So I cut new ones out of .25" steel and welded them in. As posted earlier, my plan was to use the Sikky shifter, since the T56 Magnum tranny I am using apparently moves the shifter further forward that with the standard T56 the Hoke kit was designed for. The problem that developed with this plan was that I really did not like the feel of the Sikky shifter. It added a lot of slop and "vagueness" to the shift linkage, and I did not want to build a car that (to my tastes) shifted poorly. So I decided come hell or high water I was going to use the Tremec shifter. This involved welding up the OEM shifter cutout, and cutting a new one for the Tremec shifter. Not a big deal, but I am also going to have to modify my (completed, I thought) dash structure which would now interfere with the shifter. If I am honest with myself, I think I was just trying to dodge the additional work and that the Sikky shifter would save me from it. I also found that I had to further lower my steering rack, in order for it to clear the oil pan. With the tranny installed and bolted up, I found that the engine sat in a more level attitude than I expected, which pivoted the front of the engine back down onto the steering rack. So I will have to further space down the tie rods as well. I know the long shift lever evokes a school bus and won't win any style points, but I prefer having the shifter as close as reasonably possible to the steering wheel. This shift lever accomplishes that, as well as angling backward to make up for the slightly-too-far-forward shifter pivot. I think I did the right thing not using the Sikky shifter, I cannot believe how nicely the setup shifts with the stock Tremec shifter. It is silky smooth and very precise. I am just pissed off that I spent the money on the shifter that I won't be using. Since I installed it I cannot really in good conscience return it....it no longer looks perfect and new. Thanks for looking.
  13. I'm using the Bosch Motorsport mount that New Zed linked a few posts ago, just because I already had one on my BMW and it was easy to pull off for mock-up. The Radium one looks better though....just because it comes set up with AN6 ORB threaded ports. The Bosch one has M14 threads, but adapters to AN6 are easy to find. Boy though, Radium is sure ripping people off with their price on the Bosch 3 and 4 bar FPRs. I just bought a 4 bar from Pelican Parts and it was less than half what Radium is charging. The only possible issue, is the Bosch FPR is really small, so small it is kind of disconcerting compared to most of the aftermarket ones. I worry that it might not handle the fuel flow of my engine/fuel pump combo. But this same Bosch FPR was used on the 2001-2003 Audi S6, which was a fairly high HP car, so hopefully it is up to the task. If not, it will be a simple matter to switch to a higher flow unit, without significantly re-designing my plumbing setup. I don't think there are specifically problems with Aeromotive FPRs so much as that the aftermarket ones in general are not designed and made to the standards of the OEM ones. Newzed is right on the money with that as far as I have seen. Plus all the aftermarket ones are adjustable, which IMHO adds another unneeded variable. I have read of several high end automotive tuners who won't tune cars with adjustable FPRs, just because there is really no need for adjustable fuel pressure, and they have found that the adjustable FPRs are much less reliable. Fuel pressure problems can quickly kill a highly tuned engine....from going lean and detonating. I just did some more reading....these Bosch FPRs are rated to "reflow" up to 220 LPH...and my Bosch 044 pump is rated to deliver 220 LPH at 4 bar. So, I should be good, considering it won't generally be sending back all the fuel the pump is providing, at least not unless the engine isn't running. Apparently if the FPR has too little capacity, you will see a rise in fuel pressure beyond what it is rated at. This wouldn't be catastrophic, like going lean might be. I will just have to monitor fuel pressure for a bit once it is all up and running, to make sure all is good.
  14. My fuel pump is a done deal. The cell has an integral trap door reservoir and the ubiquitous Bosch 044 pump. I don't know the specs exactly, but I know that pump will handle far more power than I will ever have in this car. Honestly my intent is to leave the LS3 stock....LOL....I know, I know, famous last words. But I have done my share of messing with modified engines, and wanting a break from that is one of the main reasons I went LS3 in the first place. The problem with highly modified engines....yeah they go fast....but they need good gas....and the biggest problem for me is that no matter how much time you put into it, you can never get a perfect tune. I don't mean at WOT....that's easy....I mean part throttle and idle and all that. My current plan: I borrowed the Bosch FPR adapter off my BMW for fit up. I am going to "Y" the AN8 fuel supply line from the cell into two AN6 lines, one going into each fuel rail. The FPR adapter will mount to one of the heads and will be plumbed between the two fuel rails. It will use a Bosch 078133534C 4 Bar (58 PSI) FPR for an Audi S8 (and numerous other Audis). Then an AN6 return line back to the fuel cell. This might be a bit of overkill, but at least I know I won't have to re-do it all down the road. Thanks again to all for the input. Very helpful.
  15. Brakes are already plumbed....without hard lines. Honestly what sold me on that decision....I saw photos of one of the recent cars used in the German DTM series. These are arguably the most advanced and technically sophisticated racing cars on the planet (rules are much less restrictive than F1). This DTM car's brakes were 100% plumbed with braided teflon hose. So I figured if there was a performance penalty, it must be minor.... But this has been a great source of insight about FPR plumbing. I am pretty much convinced it is worth the slight increase in complexity and plumbing to put the FPR close to the fuel rails, so that is my current plan. I know from my past experience that what Newzed says is dead on: If you can find a way to implement them, OEM style FPRs are much more effective than all the assorted aftermarket ones, which are pretty much all the same. I had to return a car I owned in the past to a "closer to stock" setup in order to pass smog here in California. I had been using an aftermarket FPR, and was just living with fluctuating fuel pressure. Well, to pass smog, I returned to the stock FPR. It held the pressure dead on, right where it was supposed to be. Go figure......
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