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Everything posted by Ironhead

  1. Agree about the large hardened washers, as I mentioned. I often wonder why places like to include Allen bolts in locations like this where there is really no need or advantage to them. These are good, grade 12.9 bolts (T3 likes to send weak and gall prone stainless hardware too, sadly), but one main issue here will be vertical clearance and in that regard Allen bolts are no better (maybe worse) than standard head six point bolts. Like I said, I think button heads will be the best approach, although the threads in the blocks are M10/1.25 and button heads in that threading are hard to find (Belmetric has them). IMHO the plates (as opposed to large washers) would be a bit overkill, and having seen the parts I am not as concerned by the connected "T" slot as you are. Keep in mind, that part is 1" thick. It is very rigid. I'm sure after running the car a bit, it will be quite apparent on inspection how the parts are holding up (if I ever get it running).
  2. I am using the "new and improved" front diff mount from T3. Their original one was a flimsy joke, so I had fabbed up a .25" steel plate monstrosity to try to keep my diff from moving around. Well, I am quite happy with these T3 parts and the one I constructed is getting scrapped. I am probably saving at least 15 pounds in the process. Basically this uses billet aluminum pieces to bridge together the front and rear control arm pivot points, and then a third piece of 1" thick billet bolts to these to support the front of the diff. I have read opinions from some that they believed even these new T3 parts are not adequately substantial and rigid to keep the diff from moving around. I am no engineer, but I am quite confident that these new pieces will either rigidly hold the diff in place, or they will break. The fact is 1" thick billet aluminum is not going to flex much. And I seriously doubt they are going to break. The design also eliminates the cantilever effect when using a short nose diff that puts so much stress on many front mount designs. Another plus is that this design is claimed to be compatible with the Ford 8.8" diff, which I probably should have used from the beginning and will be switching to should my R200 prove not up to the task. The only downside to these parts I can see: It significantly encroaches into available space to run exhaust beneath the control arms. I am about 75% certain it is going to interfere with my already constructed exhaust, but I like the design well enough that I am willing to modify the center section of my exhaust to make it fit. I do think I am going to replace the four visible Allen bolts with lower profile button head bolts, and use larger hardened washers under them. This will allow a bit more exhaust clearance and better spread the load on the aluminum parts. Thanks for looking.
  3. I think he's talking about Supertrapp: https://supertrapp.com/shop-products/universal/auto-s-c-elite If you're not familiar with them, they've been around forever....since the 1970s at least. There are a series of baffles at the end of the exhaust pipe. To increase flow/noise you add more baffles, to quiet things down you go with fewer. I know these devices work, but I don't really understand how. It seems like the design would KILL exhaust flow, but somehow it doesn't. They have been used on a lot of racing cars and bikes over the years to take the edge off of a really loud exhaust.
  4. It's funny...I have heard a wide range of opinions about Heim jointed cars. Some say they wear and start "clicking" almost immediately, others say they get thousands of trouble free miles out of them. I guess I'm about to find out, as my project car has a crap load of them. I am interested in the R joints in concept, but I don't understand what makes them superior to standard Heim joints, other than costing 3X as much. They do not appear to be "sealed" from dirt and moisture, and while the metal ball rides on a plastic bearing surface, that is true also of many Heim joints that are Teflon lined. I am also a bit dubious of some of their claims about poly bushings. They repeatedly cited "squeaking" as one of the major faults of poly bushings, but if they are properly lubed with Teflon grease squeaking is a complete non-issue. I have a track car on poly bushings that I greased/installed almost 20 years ago. Not a squeak in 20 years. My point being, hard to separate the truth from BS marketing with the R joints.
  5. I had similar issues as I learned how to weld on mine. The copper backing works great, but in some places isn't really an option. What worked for me was to go pretty hot on the weld, but do it EXTREMELY quickly, like just a split second weld. The short duration helps prevent blowing through and keeps the weld from stacking too high (more to grind off), but the high heat setting still gives good fusion. Like you said, once you have a few solid tacks, it's easy to keep adding more to them. It is also critical IMHO to have a slight gap (1/16" or less) between the two panels being welded. Otherwise, once the weld is ground flat, you will have countless pinholes to be filled. Some recommend TIG for thin sheet metal, but I tried TIG and it was a disaster for me. It is by nature a slower process, and I found controlling the heat to be a nightmare.
  6. The main advantage over the stock motor is just that they are available... But I used the Jeep motor (from a '90s Cherokee IIRC) because the common Honda wiper motor swap was a bad fit for my particular car. I am using a PDM for electrics, which can only switch +12V and the Honda motor is designed to work by switching to ground. The PDM cannot send a ground signal. Yes this could be overcome by using relays and such, but I figured this motor would be easier, simpler, and cleaner. All I did was look at photos of various wiper motors for sale, and chose this one because it used a similar mounting arrangement to the stock motor.
  7. Well, things are moving along. Slowly, but moving.... I got the engine and transmission installed and wired. That all went fairly smoothly. I got the clutch working...but doing so required upping the master cylinder from .75" to .875"....for the clutch to fully release before the pedal hit the firewall. The Jeep wiper motor works and parks the wipers correctly. Not sure there whether I was lucky or good....but it was surprisingly easy. Shifter installed. Driver's door mounted and panel lines sorted (as good as they are going to get). Honestly what has really slowed things down has been trying to route/shield/design all the engine mounts and wiring and hoses and the starter so that they are not burned by the headers. I hope all these heat shield products do what their manufacturers claim, or the car is going up in flames soon after I start it up. Thanks for looking.
  8. If my goal was just to go fast, I should have just taken the money spent on my Z project and bought a Corvette. In terms of speed vs $$$, Corvettes can't be beat. But I hate Corvettes, not even sure why I do. Besides, mainly I wanted to build something.
  9. In a strictly pointy-headed-theorist sort of way, I suppose the 911 is poorly designed.... The 911's racing success proves that in all of motorsport short of the absolute engineering pinnacle (F1), weight distribution is of relatively low importance compared to a myriad of other factors. Committed manufacturer support of a race program is one of them. The most dominant 911 based car was no doubt the 935. I used to watch them during the late '70s and early '80s. Compared to the Dekon Monzas, Greenwood Corvettes, and BMW turbos, the 935 did handle poorly. But while their competition had perhaps 650 HP, the 935s had more like 800 HP. And, their rear engine arrangement enabled them to put the power to the ground very efficiently. They would dawdle through the turns, then take off like rocket sleds in the straights. Couple that with the fact that they were actually built by Porsche rather than some racer in their garage, in general they had a huge reliability advantage. So the 935 won, pretty much everything in their era, weight distribution be damned.
  10. I used to say exactly the same about Harbor Freight... Then they came out with their "Icon" line. "Snap On" quality for 1/4 the price. I have tried them. I hate to say it, but it's true. They are going to completely change the market for pro-level tools worldwide.
  11. Thanks Buddy, good to hear from you. I won't tell anyone you're on a Datsun forum....lol. I don't expect to build another car anytime soon. Too expensive, and TBH I am getting a little tired of it and ready to move on to something else...you know....bingo....feeding the pigeons at the park...pool aerobics. All this car work keeps ruining the velcro straps on my shoes. Besides...I'm sure getting this thing running will be just the beginning of getting it truly "sorted". My "other" car is currently sitting in the garage with a dead battery. I feel a little like I have betrayed it....but this current project has absorbed pretty much all of my interest in turning wrenches. Wow...4 years old. Time flies. That being the case, I'm surprised you even had time to write...much less build a car. You should post some update pics nonetheless.
  12. LOL....I have always heard it as "perfection is the enemy of excellence", basically same meaning I guess. It is one of my favorite expressions, because I have anal-retentive tendencies, and I frequently have to remind myself that perfection is not a realistic goal.
  13. Tognotti's is a surprising place. They have remained successful in a largely mail-order world by actually having a significant amount of inventory in stock. I realize they have a small online business as well, but I am confident that the vast majority of their sales are walk-ins. The place is a time warp for me. I used to go in there in the 1970s when I was a kid (hell, I even remember when the building was a supermarket), and it has not changed at all. It still even smells the same. Most things would change in 50 years, but not Tognotti's.
  14. Well said. I remember reading an arcane discussion many years ago about the suspension work done on a Porsche running in the IMSA GTO series (I realize that dates me horribly). The team felt they knew better than the engineers at Porsche who designed the suspension, and were making a case that the car would be more successful with their modifications. Were they correct? I have no idea, largely because the series was won by a car running a live rear axle.....lol.
  15. OMG, that is a mess. I think in the '60s and '70s cars were only expected to last a few years, and they were built accordingly. It isn't just Datsun, pretty much every car from that era has rust issues. We all like older cars for our own reasons, but in terms of being long lived/reliable/efficient transportation devices, modern cars are so vastly better. I think you could buy nearly any 2020 model car and drive it for as long as you like without rust ever being an issue.
  16. I live in the same area as you, and I have encountered that issue several times with Summit and other companies with products that cannot be shipped to California. I have made several trips to Summit, and I had to also make several trips to paint suppliers in Nevada to get the products needed to paint my car. Ironically though, if you do a bit of searching, there are a lot of companies in the other 49 states who do not give a crap about California law. They will ship products here even without the state's blessing. California governing is only going to get worse in this regard.. They don't like any cars that are not electric, and they despise gas burning collector/enthusiast cars almost as much as they hate people who own them.
  17. I wanted to add, that would be unthinkable to me. The crimped lines are light and clean looking, but I cannot count how many times I have carefully measured for a hose assembly, then after building it found it was slightly too long or short or just changed my plans entirely. I actually considered buying a crimping machine....until I priced them.
  18. I followed their recommendations, and yes it resulted in a huge cooler.
  19. I find that curious, because with the Ultra Pro hose, the covering, be it braided stainless or fabric, is not in any way attached to the Teflon liner. With the retro braided stainless covered rubber hose...like Earl's "Classic", the stainless braid is solidly bonded to the rubber hose to achieve a high vacuum rating. With Ultra Pro the covering is just that...you can slide it right off the Teflon core. Hard to see how the covering has any impact on preventing the Teflon from collapsing, unless the steel braid's increased rigidity helps prevent the liner from becoming oblong or egg shaped as a prelude to a collapse. I couldn't find it on Earl's site, but I wager the vacuum rating of their "Performo-Flex" (standard steel braided rubber hose as been used for decades) hose is much higher. In fact, I wager that's why they don't list it. They consider it a "legacy" product and I think are more keen to sell the Ultra Pro. Like I said though, the old school stuff is really rigid and harder to work with.
  20. I used Earl's Ultra-pro for oil, fuel, and coolant, the steel braided variety for fuel and oil and the fabric braided for coolant. I initially planned on using it just for fuel, because the Teflon lining is impervious to alcohol fuel additives, but I liked it so much I used it in the other applications as well. If you have ever used the traditional rubber-lined steel braided hose, I think the Ultra-pro is a huge improvement because it is much MUCH more flexible, and thus vastly easier to work with. I used the traditional rubber lined hose for my diff cooler plumbing, just because I had some laying around from another project, and I hate the stuff in comparison. It doesn't want to bend... I agree the steel braid probably isn't essential, but the rules require it for fuel lines that run through the passenger compartment (mine do for about a foot). It is also nice insurance for critical lines since the steel braid makes them pretty much immune to abrasion damage. I don't know if Gary advocates the Push Loc because he stocks it or he stocks it because he advocates it, but he tried to sell me a bunch of it when I was there. I'm sure it works well but I have just never felt right about push lock hoses (Earl's has their own variety) for critical applications involving any pressure. I used the Earl's push lock ("Super Stock" IIRC) for my crankcase breather hoses. For practical purposes I think XRP, Earl's, Aeroquip, Goodridge and Fragola are all pretty much equivalent brands. I have used all five brands over the years and cannot really even tell them apart. I would just avoid the Chinese copies like the plague. No oil tank heater. I did use this thermostat for the oil cooling: https://www.improvedracing.com/remote-engine-transmission-oil-filter-mount-with-thermostat-env-170.html
  21. I added quite a bit of heat shielding before dropping in the engine and transmission. Most of it is DEI "Floor and Tunnel Shield II". The small rectangular shields on the frame rails are pieces of aluminum covered with the DEI stuff. I had thought that my brake lines and wiring harness were far enough from the headers to be safe, but then I saw a YouTube video detailing how someone else's LS3 swapped small car had completely lost brakes because the header heat burned through both fire sleeve and then the teflon lines. Although in this case it looked like his brake lines were only maybe one inch from the header tubes. Mine are four or five inches away, but it still seemed like the heat shields were a good idea. The floor/tunnel shield seems like a good product and sticks very well, but the high heat tape from DEI for covering gaps and edges was kind of....meh. It just doesn't stick as well as it should. I guess heat resistant adhesive just doesn't have the holding power of something like duct tape. Overall fairly slow progress, in large part because shipping is so screwed up it takes forever to get anything sent to me. I thought I would have the car making noise by Xmas, and that isn't going to happen. Thanks for looking.
  22. Thank You! I would have started out with an overheating engine if I missed this...
  23. This is good information. I Installed a heater (well, defroster really) in my car and when it is turned off I would have this same problem....flow between the heater hose ports would be blocked. Would it accomplish the same thing to plumb an "H" with AN fittings between the water pump and heater core, or does the LOJ part have other design features I am missing?
  24. On my current build I used a total of seven cans of 3M cavity wax, inside all the frame rails and anyplace else where there is "blind" metal. Seven cans sounds like a lot but it goes pretty fast. This stuff really does seem to run into even the smallest cracks, and after applying it you will find it running out everywhere there was the slightest gap. I even applied a couple of coats inside the "A" pillars, because I tied the cage to them and the welding certainly burned off whatever was applied inside them at the factory. It can be endlessly debated the merits of weld through primer, epoxy, seam sealers, etc in the areas to which we have some level of access. However, there are many, many places on these cars wherein cavity wax applied with a "wand" is really your only option for corrosion protection. There is simply no other way to get at some areas. Just make certain you are 100% finished with painting and finishing before applying these waxes. It is quite a job to clean off adequately to allow paint....or anything else....to stick to surfaces they are applied onto.
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