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Ironhead

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Everything posted by Ironhead

  1. Yeah, Honestly today what it really boils down to is whether you want to buy US made or Chinese. The US machines are significantly more expensive. Many life long hardcore welding experts will say the US machines are the only way to go in terms of long term quality and reliability, and that the Chinese machines won't last. But many also say that about Snap On tools, and I know that's no longer true.
  2. I have a Miller Diversion 180. It's been great for my needs....but it has limited features and still runs about $2K...so I'm not sure it's exactly a great bargain.
  3. Very interesting project, I will definitely follow. What year did IMSA allow sections of the GTU cars to be replaced by tube structure? I used to watch the races as a kid, and in '78/'79 they all still had the full OEM body that was reinforced with tubing. Sometime in the early-mid '80s, they were suddenly all tube frame "silhouette" cars with little or none of the OEM body remaining. I'm just not sure exactly when the change occurred. I wanted to also add, that is a huge project. If you can complete it in 12 months, my hat is off to you...
  4. Thanks for the link. Coincidentally, I called Essex yesterday and talked to their "brake pad guy"....might have been this same dude...not sure. Anyway, he told me that currently their closest thing to a perfect pad is the DS3.12....which is what I have installed. He asked me if I had heat cycled them yet, which I have not. He said he was very confident that once I had heat cycled them, their cold bite will greatly improve. My "Z" as set up is a bit of a challenge for brakes. I am definitely going to need high heat capacity on track as the car can build mo
  5. Just a quick blurb: I think it is a mistake for any business to overly rely on Facebook. I don't FB, never will, because I disapprove of the company and their business model. Many, many others feel the same....
  6. I agree with above, that it is more the reaction of the company to fixing mistakes that counts. Nothing in a small market like this is ever going to be developed and tested to perfection prior to release. I've had a lot of experiences with the "Z" after market while building my car, as like many here virtually nothing on it is OEM Datsun. I've had very clear and definite problems with several company's components, which I articulated and documented (including video) and communicated to the company that made them. The response, more often than not, has been crickets
  7. Yeah I noticed that too. Each set of these pads costs $300-$500....trying new ones is getting expensive....lol I thought about putting in "street pads" and just swapping them out at the track. This would be a bit of a PITA, but the big problem is I don't think anyone makes street compounds for the AP calipers.
  8. I've tried both the 2500 and the DS3.12. Both to some degree have the "no cold bite" issue, but I found the DS3.12 to be the better of the two. I've used the 2500 in my other track car for many years. In that application it's been great.
  9. My current pads are good hot, but terrifying cold. Since I don't plan to trailer the car to the track, it's a problem. I'm probably looking for that magic bullet pad that doesn't exist.
  10. Out of curiosity, what pad compound do you use?
  11. Thanks. I remember your car has large rear flares. Do they get absolutely peppered with rocks? I think part of my mistake was driving the car without the front fenders installed...but I got rock chips on the front of the rear over-fenders and on the leading edge of the doors. There was literally like two fist-fulls of gravel deposited on the inside of the rear over-fenders. The front fenders will solve the issue with the leading edge of the doors, but in the rear I decided some kind of protective coating was the only option. I also made some tight fitting fender lin
  12. My first response to the fuel cell next to the driver's seat is horror, but why not I guess? Really no more dangerous than having it in the hatch area. Maybe safer, in terms of less likely to take a major hit. But don't the rules require a metal partition around it, and either braided steel lines or hard lines? Or am I all messed up and that's not a fuel cell?
  13. I could have.... I already had significant rock chipping from one short drive. This would have needed touching up, or even a repaint...before PPF. I was blown away by the amount of gravel thrown up by the soft compound tires. The Raptor Liner killed two birds with one stone. I really like Raptor Liner. It is affordable, easy to use, durable, and simple to seamlessly retouch. I thought about doing the tintable Raptor Liner and matching the paint, but decided this is a track car, not a show car, and just went with black. I would have had to outsource the P
  14. I added a couple of coats of Raptor Liner to the areas I knew would almost immediately receive rock chips if left unprotected. I'm not crazy about how it looks, but figured it's either that or pock-marked paint. Now I have to let the car sit for a while. Raptor Liner "mostly" dries fairly quickly, but remains soft for a surprisingly long period of time....I am going to refrain from driving the car for at least a week while it fully hardens.
  15. I think the Borla and Magnaflow straight-through mufflers are fairly equivalent. The key is just to have as much volume (large mufflers) as you can find a place for. I have two large Magnaflows under the fuel cell (lots of heat shielding) and they have good ground clearance. But, to accomplish that....I raised the fuel cell a couple of inches when I was designing the rear end of the car. Which, of course, raises CG a bit.... Everything is a tradeoff.
  16. This is the resonator(s) I used: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vpe-1794 As far as ground clearance, I have a couple of low spots, but the header collectors are the lowest. I would like to see someone build 1 7/8" long tube headers and dual 3" exhaust without winding up with compromised ground clearance. I sure as hell couldn't find a way to do it. If you went with single 4" exhaust you could better tuck it into the driveshaft tunnel and pick up ground clearance without losing much (if any) flow, but the headers would still be a problem.
  17. I would say I am happy with it. Reasonably quiet at idle, pretty aggressive sounding when you step on it. Definitely quieter than I expected it to be....which is fine. I'm not really a fan of loud cars....even track cars.
  18. I got the front end of the car pretty much assembled.... The only drama I encountered was that with the 6 degrees of caster setting, the front wheels are far enough forward that they now interfere with the headlight buckets. So I have to sort that out one way or another. It's always something. Thanks for looking.
  19. Sitting here with "brake envy"...telling myself "size doesn't matter"..... But seriously, everything looks really great. I wish I had done something similar with my engine mounts to allow for a larger scavenge pump. I agree with you, get wheels/tires in hand ASAP. Without them you will very quickly find yourself unable to progress with mockup. So much hinges on the wheel/tire setup. Also expect the wheels to take two or three times as long as Ryan "estimates". That was my experience, and is, from what I have heard from others, the norm.
  20. The reason radically modified cars usually don't bring much money though, is because they only appeal to a very narrow spectrum of buyers, people like you and me. Even in my case, absent a very thorough inspection, I am quite wary of the quality of work done by people who modified a car. Usually I would prefer to modify it myself. I guess my point is, you might whip out your checkbook if you saw a big-block powered Datsun for $70K. I'm saying that if you waited a few weeks there's a good chance you could get the same car for $30-40K.
  21. I got the sizing on my master cylinders directly from Tilton. Their tech support is great...they offer assistance without talking down to you or trying to sell you big $$$$$ items you don't need. Anyway, they took weight (anticipated at the time) of my car, weight distribution, front/rear rotor sizes, caliper piston areas, and other variables to recommend master cylinder size. I told them I wanted to lean toward relatively light pedal pressure, and I followed the sizing they recommended. Once it was all working though, because of my pedal position I found I was getting just a bi
  22. One of the trade-offs, is to design in lower effort by using smaller master cylinders, you kind of have to accept longer pedal travel, because the system still needs to move a certain amount of fluid to operate. I'm fairly tall, so I positioned the pedals close to the firewall, which limits the amount of pedal travel I can have. My pedals have an adjustable pivot point on the balance bar, which I moved from low effort/high travel to medium effort/medium travel for this reason. I wanted full braking well before the pedal was bottoming on the firewall, for obvious reasons.... Ther
  23. Fair price perhaps, but modified cars very, very rarely bring in fair prices. If you ever watch the various televised auto auctions, you will see countless resto-mods...most of them done to a very high standard and having had at least $125-150K put into them. Typically they only bring $35-50K at auction. This Z is definitely a rare exception....and I do agree that the "all Nissan" element of it was probably a factor. It wouldn't mean anything to me, but I know it does to some people.
  24. Thanks dude...LOL. I took the car out today just on the road right near my shop...sans front fenders, hood, and many other parts...just to get a feel for it. I honestly got the feeling that I am in a bit over my head. The car is so damn powerful and fast...even not exceeding 50% throttle or 3500 RPM(breaking in engine), it's like nothing I have driven before. I have another track car I have been tracking for years, and it is reasonably fast. But, it is more of a flawless handling momentum type car. The Z is a completely different animal. Just driving it on the stre
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