LS3Z

Welcome. You have a great adventure ahead of you. Take the time to do things right and you will have an amazing car that will bring a smile to your face for a lifetime!

They are 225/50/15 rear and 205/55/15 front. Nexen Nfera SUR4. Very sticky tire. Hooks up great and corners great for your around town shenanigans. I just looked up more info about the tire. Seems that they are only made in a 225/45 for the 15 inch wheel now. Great. Let me know when you're in town and I'll take you for a spin, not literally I hope. . Panama City, August, No AC, small windows.....bring an extra shirt!

That's it? 150 views and no other offerings, thoughts, or opinions? C'mon guys and gals.....

You are right, they look a little chewed. They look particularly bad with the diff supporting the weight of the car as shown in the pics. I agree that they should be freshened up. Driveshaft is brand new from Driveshaft Shop Specialists. I would assume that the rumble would always be present if something were welded off axis, but it is always worth taking a look to verify. I'll check the run out.

If anyone can tell me how I can get my hands on this air dam, I would be eternally grateful. My favorite that I have seen thus far. Judging by the super safe and proudly worn jumpsuits and PPE, I am guessing that this picture was taken in Japan.

I am searching to understand what options we currently have for the front air dam for our S30 cars. When searching through older posts on this topic, many reference vendors that have closed shop, pictures no longer shown, offering no longer offered, etc. There are also several vendors that have had less than stellar reviews about fitment, quality, and business morals. Below is a list of what I have found. Lets bring all of our collaborative knowledge together and create a single point source for all offerings in the market in mid-2017! Thanks to 19762802+2 for some initial information about MSA from 2009 Please list: 1) Spoiler type: 2) Year: 3) Material: 4) Vendor/Manuf and comments about vendor: 5) Price: 6) Link: 7) Pictures: 1) Spoiler type: Type 1 Air Dam Non Ducted 2) Year: 1970-8/1974 Z 3) Material: 4) Vendor/Manuf and comments about vendor: MSA 5) Price: 6) Link: http://www.thezstore...OD/7AD1/50-1401 7) Pictures: 1) Spoiler type: Type 1 Ducted 2) Year: 1970-8/1974 Z 3) Material: Fiberglass OR Urethane 4) Vendor/Manuf and comments about vendor: MSA 5) Price: 6) Link: Fiberglass: http://www.thezstore...OD/7AD1/50-1402 Urethane: http://www.thezstore...OD/7AD1/50-1411 7) Pictures: 1) Spoiler type: Type 1 Air dam Non ducted 2) Year: 8/1974-1978 3) Material: Fiberglass 4) Vendor/Manuf and comments about vendor: MSA 5) Price: 6) Link: http://www.thezstore...OD/7AD1/50-1403 7) Pictures: 1) Spoiler type: Type 1 Air dam Ducted 2) Year: 8/1974-1978 3) Material: Fiberglass OR Urethane 4) Vendor/Manuf and comments about vendor: 5) Price: 6) Link: Fiberglass: http://www.thezstore...OD/7AD1/50-1404 Urethane: http://www.thezstore...OD/7AD1/50-1412 7) Pictures: 1) Spoiler type: Type 2 Air dam Ducted 2) Year: 1970-1978 Z 3) Material: Fiberglass 4) Vendor/Manuf and comments about vendor: MSA 5) Price: 6) Link: http://www.thezstore...OD/7AD1/50-1409 7) Pictures: 1) Spoiler type: Type 3 Air dam Non Ducted 2) Year: 1970-1978 Z 3) Material: Fiberglass 4) Vendor/Manuf and comments about vendor: MSA 5) Price: 6) Link: http://www.thezstore...OD/7AD1/50-1439 7) Pictures: *Also comes with Grille Option* 1) Spoiler type: BRE style Air dam Non Ducted 2) Year: 1970-8/1974 3) Material: Fiberglass OR Carbon Fiber 4) Vendor/Manuf and comments about vendor: MSA 5) Price: 6) Link: Fiberglass: http://www.thezstore...OD/7AD1/50-1521 https://whiteheadperformance.com/product/bre-type-spook-front-air-dam-fiberglass-datsun-240z-260z/ Carbon Fiber: http://www.thezstore...OD/7AD1/50-1523 7) Pictures: 1) Spoiler type: BRE style Air dam Ducted 2) Year: 1970-8/1974 3) Material: Fiberglass OR Carbon Fiber 4) Vendor/Manuf and comments about vendor: MSA, Whitehead 5) Price: 6) Link: Fiberglass: http://www.thezstore...OD/7AD1/50-1522 https://whiteheadperformance.com/product/bre-type-spook-front-air-dam-fiberglass-with-brake-ducts-datsun-240z-260z/ https://whiteheadperformance.com/product/bre-type-spook-front-air-dam-fiberglass-with-brake-ducts-datsun-260z-280z/ Carbon Fiber: http://www.thezstore...OD/7AD1/50-1524 7) Pictures: 1) Spoiler type: Kaminari 2) Year: 70-74 3) Material: FRP 4) Vendor/Manuf and comments about vendor: Kaminari 5) Price: $395 6) Link: http://www.kaminari.com/nissan-240z-260z-air-dam-frp 7) Pictures: Sarona Air Dam FRP $275 https://www.octanemotorsports.com/70-73-71-72-nissan-240z-001-style-front-bumper-by-sarona-p-20084.html OK, so those are the different types of air dams that i have been able to find. With that said, it seems that the Type 1 Ducted is the most popular as there are several different suppliers of them. There are others that seem very similar to the type 1, but have subtle variations. Star Road FRP $900!! https://jdm-car-parts.com/collections/body-exterior-parts-nissan-fairlady-z-240z-260z-280z-280zx/products/star-road-front-spoiler-for-datsun-240z-260z-280z-cars-no-intl-shipping Ztrix - Have heard good things about this company FRP $380 https://www.ztrix.com/miscellaneous/type-1-style-airdam.html Retro Spec - Have heard mixed reviews about quality and fitment $199 FRP, $399 CF http://retrospec-datsun.blogspot.com/2013/05/retro-spec-240z-260z-air-dam.html?m=1 https://www.facebook.com/Retro-spec-164254480421705/ Xenon 3124 - 240/260 Xenon 3125 - 260/280 $150-$200 Everywhere Urethane DatsunZfiberglass - Heard this guy is to be avoided at all cost. Not sure if anyone has ever actually received parts FRP $150 https://datsunzfiberglass.wordpress.com/tag/datsun-280z-front-spoiler/page/2/ What else am I missing here? Are there any other front air dams available on the market in the US??

Nice time capsule you found there. Take some more shots once you get that 20 years of dust washed off. Amazing how the dust has not been disturbed at all. Hopefully she comes back to life relatively easy for you.

Thanks as always for the leads on building the rear end. It is all stock, albeit in excellent condition. I believe it does have the original open diff (when on a lift, wheels spin opposite directions when in gear, only one wheel spins when not in gear). How it lays 2 black tracks all through 2nd gear while remaining mostly hooked up is a mystery to me. I have yet to see any one wheel wonder shenanigans. I dont have any plans on racing the car. Its just a means of getting my adrenaline fix on a daily basis and filling the small voids between a 3 month old, a 3 year old, wife, and work. Building cars and wrenching in the garage has been a passion of mine since I was a kid. I'll take it easy, or as easy as possible while going WOT, on this rear end and will upgrade to something more stout when I have time and $$, or when the original breaks on me. Hopefully later than sooner as I am REALLY enjoying the performance as-is currently. No clutch dumps, banging gears, or hard launches till then. The seller was very up front with me. He is one of those car nuts with too much time AND money. Has built many Zs in the past 30 years and knows them inside and out. He pulled the entire drivetrain from his, at the time, brand new 2015 Chevy SS with 1000 miles on it and installed it into the Z. Built a 1000HP race engine to put into the SS. Eventually blew his race engine and needed some $$ to build another race engine. He decided to keep his SS grocery getter/track car,the wife's manual SS, the Porsche Cayenne, the diesel Chevy 3500 with enclosed car hauler, and the crazy nice international motorhome, so he sold me the Z. Considering what he spent on the car originally and what he has put in to it since, it would have cost me around $35k to build it myself. He was eager for a quick cash sale to the right buyer so he took a large hit and accepted my initial offer. I have had a smile on my face ever since!

Thanks, Hah, Excellent Idea! I am glad that they are reasonably cheap tires! Thanks, Agreed, but I should probably do some rear upgrades first. Right now, I consider them "torque limiters" or "axle savers" I am actually amazed at how well they hook up. 1st gear is useless, 2nd depends on the asphalt condition, but usually breaks loose towards the top of 2nd (75MPH), but still pulls VERY strong. Thanks, The paint is called "Anthracite" from the 1993 Toyota Supra. It is a nice color and does go well with the cream interior. It definitely fits the era of the car and keeps the classic look. It probably wouldn't have been my 1st pick, but it is still nice. Thanks, I do need to get some decent pictures together. Next time I wash it, I'll get my nice camera and take some good shots.

Hi Hybridz. After waiting patiently for months on end for the right 240/260/280 to pop up for sale, I recently picked up this beast of a 280 with a 2015 LS3 setup. She still has quite a few things to finish up, but most of the hard work is already done.. One item that had yet to be completed was engine tuning after cam/Springs/trunions/headers/etc. what better way to introduce myself than with dyno charts, pics, and video! Got the LS3 dialed in today at a local shop called Pure Fabrication here in Panama City. Top notch team and facility. I had no idea what a cam and some bolt ons can do for the LS3! Going into this, I told myself I'd be happy with anything around or over 450 WHP. Boy am I a happy camper now!! 502.9 WHP 481.6 WTQ YouTube vid https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ispXDAAid4Y

Thank you for this first hand account. I had also been considering this as a possible cause of the vibration. The car has Eibach springs and Tokico struts. The back end does squat notably under hard acceleration and I would say that the magnitude of the rumble is linear with the amount of squat. I dont really get on it in 1st, but the rumble is most pronounced in 2nd, less in 3rd, less in 4th, etc. Definitely torque or squat related. Thank you for the, once again, very valuable information. Before I go throwing parts at this, I'd like to mount a gopro camera under there to measure the actual deflection. If the diff nose is not pitching up, no point in chasing front diff mounts.

Thanks for the tips. Lots and lots of reading to do. The RT mount looks to be exactly what I need and a fair price from technoversions. Reading about the RT mount, it seems that it lowers the nose of the diff considerably which some say is good for V8 Swaps. My question now is if I have no vibrations when cruising/decel....will lowering the nose of the diff induce vibrations? How far does the RT mount lower the nose of the diff? Guess I need to get under the car and measure all my angles.

Sorry for the late response, had family in town all weekend so no time for wrenching or researching Hoke takes your cross member and welds in everything needed for the engine install. They then powder coat it and send it back to you. They also provide the engine/trans mounts. A very robust engine installation solution that is 100% bolt in. Car/engine specs are in my signature All of the diff mounts look stock. I have been thinking the same thing as you with misalignment. I was curious if this is typical for the application and what the best bang for the buck would be to remedy the situation. I haven't heard of the Ron Tyler mount. Thanks for the tip. I'll start researching it. The front diff mount looks fine, the mustache bar inserts look a bit chewed up. The flex in the mustache bar mounts become obvious when lifting the car by the diff as shown in the pics. It would seem logical that firming up the mounts will fix the rumble that we are talking about if the mounts are allowing the nose of the diff to pitch up.

Just picked up a well built beast of a 280Z. New to Zs, new to LS engines so I am learning a lot. I have been scouring this forum for weeks now. The car I got is well built using quality parts and deep pockets. One of the first things I noticed while accelerating, other than the insane acceleration, is a vibration equal to the frequency of the driveshaft. It is not terrible, but it is an easily noticed rumble. It is only there while accelerating, not deceleration, not cruise at any speed. Brand new driveshaft shop driveshaft and Hoke engine/trans mounts. With higher HP/Tq setups, is some vibration normal for these cars? Any ideas where to start looking? Thanks and I look forward to learning from you all and eventually becoming a solid contributor to the knowledge base.