Robert

Hi, I figured this needed a new thread after discussing it in another. Im wondering, I got a 1987 L24E engine, AFM style. Now, I m thinking of replacing the camshaft with a performance camshaft, and then someone says, hey, your stock FI system only uses the AFM the first ~4000RPM, then it goes into some preset fuel table, that does not multiply the AFM value! To me it sounds totally insane, but if its actually some licensed Bosch CRAP (like all other bosch stuff), then I guess its possible. If anyone has some good info, links, or knowledge to this FI system, please speak up. I hope my FI system is not like this, as It wont allow any camshaft I guess. ECU Part numbers would be appretiated as well for comparison. Thanks

Zya, Could it be float that cause your dip afte 5800? Nice numbers, but whats with all the ups and downs?

Are you serious? Im not saying youre wrong or anything, but Im just curious why the engine feels good at all throttle positions If all above 4500RPM has locked duty cycles on the injectors? There is no TPS sensor here (Its a switch on zero and full throttle). Can you document this somehow? Ive serched the internet, but found no specific info on the FI system.. I do have a workshop manual though, and Ill have a look in it. Hopefully it will give some more detailed info. Keep in mind though, this is a 1987 model L24E, not from a old Z.... If I find no good info, Ill fin a scoop and measure the injectors at over 4500RPMs. If the duty cycle changes at different throttle positions, the AFM is in the calculation. If they dont.. Well then my eyes will pop out of my head, cause I really have bigger thoughts for Nissan.. And Im not megasquirting this engine to run a 200hp NA engine, I got a L24E turbo engine about to fire up, the only reason I want to get a new camshaft is that my cylinder head needs a overhaul... Thanks Robert

Well, Ive ordered new springs as well, I dont risk the hours of work if it goes wrong.. As noone had further inputs on the FI system, Im going to use it and see how it goes. The stock injectors should hold about 200hp @ less then 90% opening times (hopefully), so I think Im safe as long as the predictions made by some dont come true. Thanks For the inputs guys. Custom grind from Schneider with upgraded springs is on its way. By the way they can easily be recomended, great customer service and advice.

What engine did you use? The springs are double, so I really want to try without new springs, but its to much work when everyone says they are crap.. Regarding the injection system, Ive got problems to see why it will have problems? There is a air flow meter in there, and the ecu simply multiplies CoolantairtempRPMS and air flow meter readings. Larger cams will make the air flow signal higher, and therefore add more fuel.. The ignition system is independent of the fuel system, and adjustable at the dizzy... So In my theoretical opinion, a new cam should be no problem. If any of you actually tried larger cams on a FI system, or know someone who did, please share your story though.

Looks like you know your stuff. Ive spoken to Schneider, they said pretty much the same thing. .430 was the max lift they would recomend.. Im thinking of buying one of their camshafts with .460 lift and 230240 duration at .050 on a fuel injected L24E.. Do you think my bottom end will suffer to much, and maybee the 220230 duration cam would be a better choise? Ever tried these cams? Or can the .430 version of the 220230 be a good option as well on the 2.4? Thanks

In other words the stock, dual springs are crap? hehe:) Thats helpful.. The stock cam is said to be .413.. Im planing on using a .460, not an extreme upgrade.. Has anyone tried this? Does it result in valve float or what? Thanks Robert

Hi, I got a L24E from a Nissan Laurel, 1987. This engine has dual valve springs. What is the maximum valve lift I can use on it? Standard valve lift is about .42 (A cam).

Fixed, found the spacer The new bearing mustbe cut off again

Fixed, found the spacer The new bearing mustbe cut off again

Hi, I have a Laurel with a 5 Link rear axle. I changed the wheel bearing last night, and now the drum is hitting that piece of metal that the brake "pads" are attached to!! There was no shims on the old bearing that I could see... Any ideas?

Im about to purchase here, and then a very unrelyable source tells me that the stock springs will bottom out at .460. Does anyone know if this is true?

Ill read around on them pads, but in case I wont find the answer, will this require measuring and then ordering, or will the cam manufacturer know the size? About the rocker arms, will they really need any work, or is this just an urban myth stated from some poor fellow who had a oil pressure failure once, that caused wear on his rocker arms, and then destroyed his brand new camshafts hardened surface? (just my theory?)

Anout them lash pads, whats their purpose, and why will they need replacement? Since the rocker arms can be adjusted, Im having problems thinking of why? I know some say you should replace the rockers due to wear and so on, but Is that really necassry, or just a "be safe" myth? The way I see it, unless they are really bad, and messed up for some reason, they wont do any damage that mathers, unless you want 200k miles on the new cam?

Ive looked at their website, but I could not find any prices? Are they cheaper then Schneider (220$)?

Not to mention more expensive..... Ill give it a try, I Imagine it will be a flashing light can be expected?

To make a long story about not to let people borrow your stuff, I dont have a stim anymore........ Grr.. He`s doing a more intense search tomorrow, if no luck Ive directed him to your website But lets assume the worst, any ideas without a stim? I do measure a .4V signal AC at cranking... Oh, I just kmight have come over a 3.0 board, and with some luck Ill get to modify it and try it in a couple of days...

.50 could be interestng though :mrgreen:

Great, that makes it just a little more agressive then my "option B".. I found a Schneider Cam that I actually liked better though, it had .460 in lift, but 230 degree intake duration, and 240 degree exhoust.. This is great for my use, since Im using stock manifolds, and that extra duration can compensate a little on that.. Ive sent them an E-mail, hoping it will fit My N42 head.. Thanks for the inputs

Just to comment the first, Im an international buyer I guess setting up a skype account could work, but that would require a headset with mic, that I dont have.. Therefore, E-mail is easier for me, who`s not driving by them every morning Regarding the Cam above, Is say it depends on how the duration is measured, if its the gross duration, all doors are open, im more interested in the duration at .50... But if its 280280 at .50 Id agree its way to agressive for my street use with just a few track days on a 2.4L... Z-ya: 2.4? 2.8? Is it 280 at .50?

Thanks, Ill do that and try. I guess you agree that d24 is broken? But I dont think replacing it will help, and if not, any ideas? The best result ive had was a 1700rpm peak droping to 0 in 1 sec.. The car was cranking all the time ~300 rpm... Pots turned all the way... Sorry for not uplloading MSQ,but my tuning computer is in my garage.. I doo control ignition though, single coil dizzy

Ok, Sounds good.. I had a button on that one if someone could confirm street-friendlyness, so If noone else speeks up, I think Ill go for that one.. But Webcams dont have a e-mail adress? In 2009? Jeez.. I found a Schneider cam with ~same specs, just kmight go for it just for the e-mail...

Hi, Im thinking of rebuilding my old L24E Skyline engine ( fuel injected 1987). Now the L24E has somewhat more aggressive cams then the carb models, but I want more, so with some research Ive narrowed it down to two "webcams" camshafts. Option A: The 94a grind: VALVE LIFT: 430/.430 Duration at .5: 230°/230° - Link: http://webcamshafts.com/pages/automobile/datsun/install_data/tc_1800_1085.html Option B: Lift: the 91 grid: 450/.450 Dur at .5: 238°/238° also, how much can the N42 heads be shaved? L24E 2.5" exhaust, stock manifolds and efi, mild porting, shaved head

Hi, I think I kmight have found the problem, interesting that you replied here, couse I was just about to send you a mail! You see, I have a V3.57 from you, and I found that I have 5V at the tach select jumper! So I started troubleshooting, and I figured it had to be A: A short or B: D24.. A quick test of D24 gave the answer, it had .8Kohm one way, and 1.8 the other. So this must be my problem.. So the question is, is there a diode, same as D24, that can be unsoldered from a un-used spot on the board and used on D24? As far as megatune settings goes (D24 broke after I tried and failed with my VR in), Ive used basic trigger and trigger return with little or no luck. Ive also tried inverting the signal both mechanical and with jumpers, still no luck. In the end I think ill replace the 3.57 with a good old 3.0, and call it a day.. PS - yes the dizzy is locked, but cant see why it mathers when RPMs are 0?

You need to follow the steps in the manual for configuring the COM port to the correct baud rate depending on MSI or MSII is installed.. Also use the settings for connection problems with low performance. And add some details in your next post