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About Iceman

  • Birthday 01/23/1981

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    Bay area, CA

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  1. MOD can DELETE. I cant figure out how to delete or edit the topic to say DELETE.
  2. Got hooked up by someone else. Thanks for the offer though. I forgot to make a note in this thread.
  3. Great. Now I'll have to worry about if my 2WD truck will be able to get out of the water!
  4. Not sure what you mean, I must be missing something. I've never loaded or unloaded a boat before, but I assumed as long as you have a launching ramp then pretty much any vehicle will be fine. Are you referring to the aspect of needing to get the ass end wet?
  5. Ok, well it sounds like so much for that idea. I guess I'll keep my truck too then.
  6. D'oh. I forgot about the weight of the trailer. So I guess I am closer to what, 2000lbs? So now the question is, are the advertised towing capacities conservative or ambitious..
  7. I think $5500 sounds fair, but I personally wouldnt go any higher. I got my 1970 in similar condition but minus a few of those big things like the new frame rails, pans and POR15 everywhere and no new lines or bushings for less than $4000. I guess it also depends on how willing you are to wait for the next opportunity. I dont know how common Zs in that good of condition are in your parts. Might be good enough to jump on and spend a little more.
  8. I hope it's alright to ask this here, I suppose I'll find out quick. I am just looking for some input regarding towing stuff vs towing capacity. I figure plenty of folks around here probably have experience with towing, and I have none. I want to know what folks think about towing something that is close to the capacity of the vehicle. In my particular case, I am wondering if my 2002 Honda CRV AWD (1500lb advertised towing capacity) can/should tow a 1400lb pontoon boat. The trailer will have brakes. I will be towing up some small hills, but no mountain climbing. I figure this can be applicable to folks that want to tow their Zs, so I hope it's alright to ask.
  9. Looking for ignition with matching key. Matching door locks would be great. I suppose maybe $50 for a full set, otherwise let me know what you feel is fair. Thanks
  10. I am pretty sure that building up a head is going to be beyond my skill level. I am wondering how much someone from here would charge for everything from building the head to installing it for me. It's not something that I would be doing soon as I need to save the money, but I would like to know what I should expect to save up for. I am looking for something aggressive but streetable, even if it is just barely. I dont mind running a high idle and having to rev it tight to get peak power. Also, how much power can I expect to gain (running with SUs and a header). I KNOW a V8 swap is far more bang for the buck, but I have decided not to go with a V8 swap because it is beyond my skill level and I am concerned with having that much power at my disposal. Although, I might consider a mild 327 swap if it would cost less for someone to do for me than a head buildup.
  11. I'm all for Nikons. I was actually playing with a Nikon SLR that is several years old and was getting some pics comparable to a friend's current model Canon. Right now I just have a Nikon coolpix and I can get amazing pics and it's not even an SLR. Save some money and go with a Nikon instead of a Canon. When I get an SLR it will be a Nikon.
  12. I just got some used wheels for my Z and the offset puts them out more than I had hoped. I figure they are about a -10mm if I understand how to do the measurements properly. They are 8" wide with a measurement of 3 1/8" from the rear lip to the back of the hub. With them mounted, they sit with about 1" of the width threatening to hit the edge of the fender. What kind of measurements can I take to see if ZG flares will make enough of a difference to use these wheels? Is there a certain amount of clearance from the top of the tire to the fender lip that I wont even need to worry about it?
  13. Gasoline is a liquid. Liquids cannot be more or less dense. As long as you can get it to the carb without starting to vaporize (i.e. protect it from the engine heat) then it will be a liquid when it gets there. Since the fuel is under pressure, it is already less likely to vaporize. The only time running through a cooler is going to help at all is going to be when you are moving. When you are moving, the fuel is flowing and is much less likely to have a chance to heat up anyway. The time when fuel is most likely to heat up is going to be when you are stopped or in slow traffic. If you add a cooler (more distance for the fuel to travel) you will probably actually increase the time exposed to heat. If you were to add a little electric fan to it, it might help.
  14. Thanks for helping me out ncfisher!
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