justinzturbo

okay, im in the midst of an l28et swap in my 72 240z. im going purely by what i see here on the forums and trying some of my own ideas too... i read somewhere its not a good idea to delete the evap system (tank in the trunk on the right side). well i did cuz 75' 280z tank only has two vent lines. the big one is plugged into the side of the filler neck. and i plugged the other one into the vent line goin to the engine bay, which is just open to the environment (no charcoal can). and my filler cap seals tight like a peanut butter jar...i searched for 2 days now and i still cant verify wat i did will work, and i really dont want to start my car and the tank sucks it self flat or something stupid...who has the efi tank on their 240 or 260?

cool idea, i would personally get the "halo" style with the amber rings, and make the side markers blink too. just so cops dont give you trouble. im going to go with the regular ducted dam with no signal pockets...simplicity is my style! although im keeping the side markers. (i have a 72')

well, to start the e88 is a decent head, i built a couple of them and i recommend bigger valves, some mild porting, a mild cam, new valve guides (for unleaded gas), and get the CORRECT lash pads for the cam setup. a good machinist can help with all this. -as for a block i recommend looking for an l28 (2.8 liter) block out of 280z, 280zx, or maxima. theres variations in compression among blocks, because of pistons. theres a flattop pistons, dished pistons, and a turbo dished pistons. listed in order from highest to lowest compression. i would look for a dished "non-turbo" block which is identified by looking at the pistons and reading the side which would say "n42" somewhere... others say f54, those are turbo blocks. l28 engines are cheap and cost the same amount as just freshening up the l24 which has no torque compared to the l28. -if you have a 71'or 72' use the carbs, but get new needles and seats for them, get bigger ones to support the added displacement. (i used stock carbs and they had flat spots in the torque band) -get headers and exhaust. -get a msd coil, some good wires, and a electronic dizzy from a 280z/zx - make sure you use a good harmonic balancer!!!! i broke 3 of them with my l28!!! motorsport auto has a great one for $80 im sure i missed some details so dont quote me on this. everyone has different theories, your best option is to search and learn everything you can and research one certain mod to death, thats how i learned everything i know...and im only 18. this was basically my build and i got close to 170whp on pump gas in a 240z thats still a 15 second car. it would been better for a autocross car though, this setup will have awesome throttle response if built right. my car didnt have any suspension mods and it had blown shocks and cut springs

I had a similiar problem. I found it was the valve cover gasket, those cork ones are poo. I bet your oil is clean since you just rebuilt it,the clean oil is hard to see when its on clean aluminum so it makes it look like its coming from the headgasket. get one of those thin black felpro ones.

i have two n42 dished blocks, and they have random number variations also...so assuming thats normal, im guessing it has something to do with balancing the rotating assembly since the "l series'" are balanced from factory. who here knows for sure????

i was reading the stamping on the tops of my pistons, i noticed i have one different piston. they all say "p90" and 5 have "34"... the first one has a "45". is it possible i have one na piston?

on my f54 block i was reading the stampings on the tops of the pistons and i noticed they're all the same except #1. they all say "p90" and "34" except for the first one which has a 45 on it...like my n42 block. is it possible i have one NA piston in my turbo block? or are the numbers non-sense?

so, from my understanding. the only difference is that the 260/280 kit comes with rear swaybar bushings and endlinks, trans crossmember bushings...and the steering rack bushings are different...no biggie i'll just buy the ones with the rack seperately... thankz a bunch!!!

i bought a set of energy bushings for a 260/280z for $40 complete... but i have a 240z... i searched and found out they are different part numbers... whats the difference so i can buy the bushings i need seperately??? i might have to find out the hard way...

i forgot to mention that there was little goldish pieces which i was guessing was my valve guide on the cylinder with no compression. im also guessing that what made them stick??? do you guys agree?

okay i went and bought an l28et for $200 as is with no harnesses or anything else... when i got it home i cleaned it and put a couple of teaspoons of oil in every spark plug hole, and compression tested it....the results were terrible... 0,30,150ish,150ish,150ish,150ish... i was hoping for a gasket blown between coolant passages... but when i took off the valve cover i noticed one of my rockers fell off...it scarred the can pretty good, do i need a new, cam or rockers??? what would cause that to happen???? and when i took off the head the head gasket looked okay...soooo can i tell with the head off if the rings are any good....i dont want to rering it..

im located in turlock CA i need -82-83 turbo harness and ecu... -good stock injectors -afm -coil bracket and ignitor. -any whatever else you may have!!! got cash and many good carbed l28 parts... i also got an extra turbo oil pump... contact me @ justinzca18det@yahoo.com

i also want to know the answer...is there another manifold that can be used that deletes the egr?