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datsun_dom
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Posts posted by datsun_dom
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Sorry I forgot to mention that he did pop hood and pointed out the fuel pressure regulator saying that was illegal to have. So if i do take him to court he did see all the illegal stuff I have on the vehicle
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So my brother was driving my 74 260Z and got pulled over for speeding. On top of the speeding ticket the cop wrote another ticket for modified and/or removed emission equipment (27516 B VC) So i went to a state ref to ask what specifically needs to be done to get the vehicle cleared for use again. The ref said there is nothing He can do for me since its a pre 75 vehicle and to talk to the judge. Doesn't seem right since at my first arraignment the judge said if have to go to the state ref. I have an appointment with the judge tomorrow to get clarity on what needs to be done to fix this. And to top it off the ticket has the sticker on the back that says must be signed off by State ref.
For context the 260Z has triple mikuni 40s, 3-2 header, MSD ignition box, aftermarket fuel pressure regulator (thats all in the engine bay that the officer would have been able to see) So if they say revert back to stock Im prolly just gonna sell it.
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Thanks all for the responses.
I probably should have prefaced this with what I have done to the cooling system. It has an aluminum 2 row radiator from Mishi, two electric pull fans that are thermostatic controlled to kick on at 175° I do have water wetter in it as well. The heater is removed so the heater outlet just circulates back to the head.
So I don't use an OE good latch anymore. I use locking quicklatches for my hood so sadly I can't just crack my hood open. I like how AydinZ71 cut the firewall but I'm hoping to not go that extensive. I was thinking of mounting a pull fan on the inside of the cowl which would pull the heat up in and out the cowl vents.
I live in LA so the traffic is bad and I'd like to drive the car more without worrying about burning down in traffic.
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So I had a thought the other day as I'm driving around in 90+ degree weather watching my temp gauge like a hawk worried it's gonna keep climbing. I want to improve the cooling of the car in stop and go traffic but I don't want to cut the hood or make any visual changes to the exterior of the car if possible. I know that may be crazy but I can hope. I was thinking of cutting vents in the firewall right up into the windshield wiper motor area and let air escape through the vents on the cowl. Am I crazy cuz I think it's a good idea but I've never seen or heard anyone else do this
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Hey all
I'm just looking for inputs on CV axle lenghts for anyone using the r200 longnose 300zxt axles. I am looking at possibly having custom axles made and I'm just looking for any inputs on axle lengths. I realize the that the driver side is shorter but I haven't been able to find specific info on axle lenghts. I have seen that people have flipped cages, shortened the shafts, or widened the track. I am not interested in these options. I am just looking for measurements.
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Drifters (who can afford it) use a 2 way lsd but I'm a drifter on a budget plus I'm a LEARNING drifter so I will save the pricey stuff for when I can use it to it's full potential. If I really wanted I could get a r200 spool which would be best scenario in my opinion.
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It's a l26 bored out 10 over with a comp stage 1 cam intake and exhaust ports matched to manifold MSD 6al Msa 6-2 headers stock 4 speed transmission rebuilt. I have a stock replacement exedy clutch but may upgrade to a different clutch for the drift setup. It's on CX racing weld on coilover and polyurethane bushing throughout My main concern is all the clutch kicking and load I will be spurring onto the drivetrain.
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Hey all. So I'm planning on turning my car into a drift car over the next few seasons. I am planning on doing a r200 swap down the road but I just plan on welding the r180 for now. My question is what is the torque limit of a welded diff. I know the first thing to go in the r180 is the spider gears so welding them should take care of them. Now what would be the next thing to go in the diff. And roughly at what point. I know this is all hypothetical but any help is appreciated
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I did essentially the same thing Kyle just with a different cam (comp 260s-110) and it makes a big difference. All the power in these motors come from the head so it's definitely a good upgrade plus Rebello makes top notch products. I also went with a MSD 6al box which makes the idle and drive noticably smoother, a lightweight flywheel (competition clutch) with all that and the motor work it's such a difference and pretty cheap for the most part
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Hey all. So I have a 7/74 260z and I'm in the process of a motor and trans rebuild. Well actually I'm not doing it I sent them both out. Just for specifics sake its an l26 with roundtop SUs the head is match ported to the intake and exhaust with a rv cam. I'm keeping the stock distributor and a msd blaster coil cuz the manual says its a transistor type distributor so I wont have to do a points conversion for the 6al. So my questions are how do I hookup all this together cuz I'm not sure how to eliminate the ballast resistor and hookup the 6al and do I have to disconnect the original ignition box by the fuse panel.....ive been searching on the forum for my answers and ill keep doing that but any help would be awesome
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5 minutes ago, juliarosario said:
Oh and I forgot to mention I ordered a wide body kit for Dirty D. I had been eyeing this kit for a long time and finally I decided to pull the trigger! They will actually be in tomorrow, says USPS
, and I can't wait to see them in person!
I would love to know what you guys think of them! They won't be on the car for a pretty long while, we are not nearly close to that stage but damn just having them to look at will be amazing!!
Note: Obviously not my Z in the picture, this is just straight from the website. I'll update you guys tomorrow when I see mine in person!
I've been looking into getting this kit for a while but couldn't find enough pics to see how it turns out....hope it looks awesome if so ima place my order
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Ok ill try that thanks
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And the pump I used is supposed to replace the mechanical fyi
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1 minute ago, NewZed said:
You already had one bad pump. Maybe you got another. Switching carbs won't fix a bad fuel pump. Have you confirmed a good power supply and good grounding? That's a very basic electrical component troubleshooting step.
Are you running it deadheaded or using the return lines. Are the return lines open? Are you using a filter before the inlet? Does it flow enough to supply a gravity fed pump? Those inlet filters can cause a lot of problems.
Doesn't seem like you've double-checked the basic stuff. It worked for a while you should be able to make it work again. If the pump's not designed to deadhead or if you're cavitating due to inlet restriction you can wear the pump out faster.
I am sure the electrical side is good that was the point of the relay I put in and I am using the return lines and the filters should not be hindering it because the flow before was good going through the filter so I don't see how it would magically start to hinder it?
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Hey guys so im having some reoccurring issues with my Z and im ready to burn the car to the ground at this point
. So i bought the car almost a year ago and it was converted to just an electrical fuel pump when i got it. the car ran fine for a few months maybe like 5 or 6 i cant remember. Anyways one day the fuel pump started to go out so i replaced it with the K&N pump from MSA and that lasted about one month. So before i ruled that pump was no good i blew out the gas lines replaced all the filters and took a long look into the gas tank with a borescope btw such a fun tool to use. and found nothing out of the ordinary. I even rewired the whole pump putting my own relay in just so i could eliminate the electrical aspect. the pump ended up being bad and i replaced it and put a holley pressure regulator in it. the car runs good at 3 PSI. Well this started about a week ago where on hills in 4th the fuel will cut out. trust me i know exactly what it feels like by now. Now the fuel pressure barely builds past 1 PSI and if i give it gas the pump doesn't build anymore pressure it just uses up the gas in the lines and dies. So im kinda at a loss right now and the only thing i can think of doing is putting a mechanical fuel pump back on and replace the electrical again. Another option for me cuz im pretty sure the SUs arent balanced and i might just do the holley comversion cuz that was part of my plan anyways. PLZ HELP
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I bought the set for my 74 260z. They are good coilovers. The install is kinda a pain if ur doing it alone but it's worth the adjustability you have afterwards. I haven't had them on for very long but if I were you I would just spend the extra $400 for the BCs. Might as well get some nice ones.
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Is the L28et for sale?😀😀😀
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Hey guys my name is dom. I have a late model 260z and want to do a rebuild. Right now I'm not ready to do a swap so I would prefer to not go down that road basically I wanna know with either tuned SU carbs or the 4bbl holley conversion, headers, ported and polished head and upgraded cam could I break 200 hp without having to upgrade the bottom end. I'm gonna go through it and replace all the bearings and rings. Juts wanna know if its possible or what else I would need to upgrade for this and what setups u have if u did it
Not sure how to deal with a ticket I got
in Non Tech Board
Posted
**UPDATE
Went to court yesterday and basically played dumb. Told the judge that "I went to the state ref and he told me since the car is so old that he couldn't do anything to certify it. So how do I go about taking car of this ticket. The vehicle is a pre smog vehicle so I've never had to SMOG it" The judge said "Ok so what Im going to do here is dismiss the case cuz it seems like your car doesn't qualify for an inspection. Sorry about the inconvenience Mr. Soto" I tried to play it cool but I was so happy. After reading all the horror stories from other people about having to revert to stock and all that I was lucky I guess
Hope this thread helps someone going through something similar