Jump to content
HybridZ

Crash

Members
  • Posts

    78
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Crash

  1. Hey, I know this is asking for a lot of monetary investment, but have you thought of a dry-sump system? The pans are usually really small: http://www.daileyengineering.com/oilpans.htm I imagine that this would solve the pan issue and should clear the rack. Any thoughts? Other benefits are that you'd pick up some good power, the motor will last longer and will be more reliable, and you can put the oil reservoir where ever you'd like.
  2. WHOA!!! This just made me re-think my swap! Any news on this? If this is as good as it looks, I'm going to start looking for a LSx/t56 right now!
  3. That looks awesome. I think I saw that on a another site. Some guy who's goal is to run 9 flat in the 1/4. I LOVE the design as well. His entire setup nearly brought a tear to my eye. The intercoolers are pretty sweet too. I'd love to have this setup. The z32 has a bit less room under the hood from the looks of it, but I'd love to fab those intake plenums. I wonder how they're made inside... Whether they're just hallow, or if they've got a special setup for the airflow. I was thinking something very similar, except, instead of the dual throttle bodies, ITBs under the plenums, obviously no throttle bodies at the front on them, and using to large air filters in front of the turbos. Either way, a very cool design.
  4. Hmmm... OK. I was thinking about doing an LSx motor too. They're easy to find and there's a billion mods for it that are all cheap. I miss my LS1, to be honest. But the problem I see is that if I wanted to go turbo, there's nearly no room left under the hood to do all the piping leaving the rear-mounted turbos as the only reasonable option. How much modifying to the fire wall is there to do the LSx swap?
  5. Very cool. Thanks for the info. The third question is mostly about the powersteering pump not clearing the sway bar. I've never dealt with Dry Sump so I was wondering how that might help, but I see that the x-member really isn't a big deal at all. Not a lot of modding was required there. So, what I'm seeing with the oil pan is that you cut away about 50% of the sump and simply welded some sheet metal there? That's pretty cool. I'm assuming that's about a little more than 1 qt less oil? 5Lbs of boost isn't really a lot. Makes me think the turbos I was looking at are just WAY too much, and I could get away with much smaller turbos, but that wouldn't make sense, so strengthening the internals would be the best bet. I'd like to put about 12Lbs of boost or more. Lowering the compression may be a must. But who tunes these motors? Yeah, I'm going to have custom headers made by my exhaust guy. If I go with a turbo, he'll make the manifolds. I'll likely be mounting them where the stock TT intercoolers were and use a front mount double pass intercooler. But that's just one possibility. Again, thanks for the info. Got any idea about the powersteering? Was that a problem on your swap?
  6. Hey people. I've been reading posts on this board for a while, and I've decided to do a conversion too. Originally, I was going to spend my money on a new 370z (at least the money I have for the down payment) but I'll wait until next year for that. I currently have a 5-speed '90 300zx N/A. I bought it mid last year and LOVE it. Before that I had a 2002 WS.6 Trans Am that was stolen. I miss it and the power of the LS1. But honestly, I love the way the Z32 drives and feels more. My current Z is mostly stock and runs really well. It has low miles for it's age (about 7K a year) and it's pretty clean, inside and out. But that's not the car I want to convert. It's reliable right now, and as they say "If it ain't broken, don't fix it." So it's a good daily driver. I plan to buy another Z32 as my project car (another N/A 5-speed) and my thoughts are to drop a VH45 in with the possibility of either turboing or twin turboing. After reading a bunch of the posts, I see that it's obviously NOT easy to do this and this will be my first conversion. I have about $12K to work with (maybe a little more depending on how much time this takes... LOL) and I figure that I should be able to do everything for this much. Here's my questions: 1) There's been a lot of discussion about the oil-pan/X-member being an issue. But a friend brought up the point that Dry-Sump might be a better solution. The bonus would be the added reliability and some extra HP. Any thoughts? Has this been done before on either a Z32 or a VH45DE? 2) I can't fab. Never done it before, so I'll run into the issue of where to get motor-mounts and an intake that would fit under the hood. I've been looking into ITBs and I REALLY like that option for both power and reliability. I've seen some that were done for VH45's but no kits, so again, fabrication is required. If I were to force induct the motor with ITBs, I'll need to construct a good plenum which I don't think is that big of a deal. I've seen them made out of aluminum or fiberglass, so that shouldn't be a problem. Any idea what would be the best way to go? 3) I know that the power-steering pump pullie doesn't clear the sway bar. Someone on either this forum or the Nico forums lowered the sway bar with some square tubing and still needed to modify the pump brackets and ears. I was thinking that since this isn't my daily driver, an electric power steering pump may be a better solution. That way I won't run into the clearance issue and I'll pick up a little extra power. Does anyone make a power steering pump for this car with a smaller pullie or perhaps a relocation kit/bracket? I don't care if it's an electric pump or if it's engine powered. 4) I know this is practically impossible to accurately answer, but does anyone know how much power I can expect from an N/A 94+ VH45? I know the stock power, but I'll obviously be using custom exhaust, possibly dry-sump, and ITBs. I don't know much about the Nissan motors as I've been driving and working on GM's most of my life. I've been told that the stock injectors and internals were good for around 500HP reliably. I saw on another forum 600. But with N/A, I don't expect more than 400 crank. Dry sump is supposedly good for about 30-40 HP because the crank isn't slapping the oil. 5) I'm really used to having plenty of power on demand. My goal for this car would be about 350WHP N/A or 550-600WHP Turbo'd. I can always replace the internals if I go TT, and likely will, but what would I need to replace? I read that the stock crank and connecting rods are forged steel. How much power will they handle? I'm sure piston heads will be required for the Turbo application, right? At that point, should I lower the compression? Or will the motor handle it at the 10+ compression? I figure 9.5:1 or 9:1 would be better. Anyway, thanks in advance. This is a fantastic forum!
×
×
  • Create New...