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About TheWeekendWagon

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  • Birthday 03/30/1983

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    Las Vegas, NV
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    Vlogging and anything cars!

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  1. ZCarSource.com I just want to make sure that everything else is as it should be before I start messing with it. I am more puzzled with the fact that the bypass screw doesn't seem to do anything for my AFRs at idle.
  2. So this is a long story and I will answer any questions as I go but I am stuck. My car is running super rich and wont pass SMOG. I figured it would be time to go through and do the factory tune-up procedure (well most of it) in the FSM. Started with adjusting the valve lash. All but one needed some adjustment. Ran a lot smoother afterward, but didn't check AFRs as I was still waiting on my air/fuel gauge. Next I adjusted the cam timing. It was on setting 1 and was out of spec, moved it to setting 3 and it is better but still out of spec so I need a new timing chain. I then adjusted the ignitio
  3. The new relay worked!!! Well for most of the problems. Swapped out the relay and wired it up as I outlined in a previous post. Alternator wire gets power, alternator charges the battery, CHG light works, and the brake warning light is now only on if the e-brake is on and goes off once the e-brake is off. The only thing that still doesn't work is the tachometer which I will save for a different day. Thanks for your help NewZed!
  4. The bulb being checked is the brake light on the speedo that is currently constantly lit. I am really hoping this relay is the whole problem, but I at least think it will fix the light in the dash. When it's not energized the light is not grounded out and it stays on. Its also tied to the e-brake handle which when depressed completes the connection to the relay to ground it out. When you pull the e-brake up, the connection is broken and the light comes on. Gonna try wiring in the new relay in the morning and if all goes well drive around without the passenger seat for a bit to make sure it doe
  5. Man some things I just have the hardest time grasping. Math and electrical systems are my top 2. I tried to do my own research on relays so I can figure out how to wire in a new one but I have no confidence in my understanding. Sorry for the simple questions. The way I understand a relay works is the coil is energized by a triggered power source on one end and ground on the other. Why then does the wiring diagram look like this? It looks to me as though the coil is not directly grounded. The green wire (G) comes from the fuse panel so that's triggered power
  6. Broke open the Brake Warning Check Lamp Relay under the passenger seat. I don't think it's supposed to look like this! Fingers crossed a new relay solves at least the charging issue. It's gotta fix something!
  7. I'll be the first to admit that! Understood. I just get a little confused on the path after it starts splitting up and going through the gauges and relays. I am likely just overthinking it and second guessing myself. Alternator ground is good. Thanks for all your help by the way! I appreciate your patience.
  8. I did check voltage into and out of that fuse and they are both good. Ignition relay is also good. Everything worked fine before I stripped out the entire interior, wiring harness and all, to clean and rebuild it and the problems started immediately after it was put back together so it has to be something I messed up. Something missing a ground or hooked up wrong, or maybe I dropped a relay and broke it or something I am not sure but I feel it would be too much of a coincidence for something to just go bad naturally while the work was being done. That's why I removed the dash because one of th
  9. So I finally got back around to trying to tackle this issue again and unfortunately, no luck. I took the entire dash out, took out the LED bulb I had swapped into the CHG light. Replaced it with a standard bulb. Ensure the wiring had good contact to/from the bulb and un-loomed and inspected the entire dash wiring harness. Everything on the dash end looks fine visually. Car still isn't charging, the CHG light still doesn't come on, the tach still doesn't work, and the e-brake light is still permanently lit. So if we can eliminate any issues before the fuse panel and elim
  10. Yeah it's a starting point at least! Side note. Replaced both of the fuses and as expected no change. They were good to begin with. The rest will have to wait a week until I get home and have some time to take the dash out and get to that volt gauge.
  11. Hmm, I have been using a diagram for the whole car which shows things slightly different than that one. Question about the Bulb Check Relay...if that wasn't getting power from the fuse block, would that trigger the brake warning light on the speedometer? If so then the fuse makes the most sense as the cause of the problem, however visually the fuse looks fine. Going to try and change it anyway just to rule it out. That's a likely culprit too as I had that gauge removed to change the main light to LED. I don't remember if I switched the charge light to LED or if it was a d
  12. Thanks for the quick reply! Fusible links and starter connection are in-tact and good. The White/Red wire to the T-Plug shows 12V BUT the Light Blue wire on the T-Plug shows nothing so maybe that's the problem? The contact is great and I even put a new terminal end on it to make sure there was zero corrosion at the connection point to the alternator. From the wiring diagram I can see that Light Blue wire is also connected to the following... Fuel Pump Control Relay - Fuel pump and fuel delivery have no issues. Voltage Gauge - Seems to be working fine although I am not sur
  13. I'm having some charging issues with my '78 280Z and there's so much information on the internet it's kind of overwhelming so I am hoping being able to actually talk with you guys can help! Was letting the car warm up the other day and then it started running rough and I noticed the volt meter needle was down around 8v. Assumed it was the old alternator that has been on there for who knows how long. Bought and installed new alternator, re-charged battery, and just went to test it again and same thing. The voltage slowly drops as the car is running and doesn't recover on its own. So here's som
  14. Oh man, those look identical. Unfortunately I ended up grossly over-paying for a new one from JDM-Car-Parts.com. Awesome that they have new ones but yeah I am sure I could have snagged a much cheaper junkyard pull from one of those. Great info though!
  15. wal280z - Thanks man! I did end up getting some lenses from another member though so feel free to give them up to whomever needs them.
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