rabrooks

I'm not so sure power to the ground will be very hard. to accomplish. It seems the lighter weight will allow the car to rocket off the corners with great torque and acceleration with proper throttle modulation. agree the engines were talking about can overpower these little cars, but I think the traction will be really good compared to the heavier more powerful cars. we're talking 1/3 less weight or potentially even more. So based on the non fit situation of the 3.6 l engine, this points me in maybe three different directions. one light weight mid power direction would be the VQ37VHR from a 370Z. I dont know much about them. A second choice is the LS swap and I'm quite familiar with that engine as I replaced a few LS7's in my vette. Third would be the Coyote. No doubt it is the best sounding engine on the road today. The LS engines sound good but only at high rpms. at idle without a hot cam they sound like a tractor

I started a thread in the engine swap section so we can continue to discuss this 3.6l swap. I'd love to hear your thoughts and review your information

In talking about my build in the suspension forum I mentioned I wanted to install this engine in the 280. A member said it may not be the best idea. So I'm starting a thread here to see if any others might have some input. The engine is 345 lbs as installed. It has 323 hp. It's a dohc so it might be a little top heavy so what do you guys think about this engine

Since there is a secondary fuel pump. Will I need to create a fuel return line to the tank or does the secondary pump recirculate

Yes, I am referring to the same engine. The one I'm after is the LFX or the LGX. I'd like to run a t56 behind it but I think it will actually be a AY6

So someone help me with a question I asked earlier in the thread. Concerning Roll Centers. It seems under many circumstances the rc is low in the front and high in the rear. If I undestand Mt geometry correctly, as the roll center is low and dynamic under compression aren't I adding extra weight to the front outside tire as I turn. And does lowering the rear to match the front balance the potential traction. Or have I got that backwards. I know the rear will squay on exit which may be better for roll center to work in my favor. So is that why most cars seem to have a high rear rc

For the sake of further discussion, I've decided to install the GM 3.6l doc v6 with 60 degree v and 340 lbs and 323 hp in stock form. And no need for heavy exhaust manifolds. This engine is in the camaro and caddy. A twin turbo version is in the caddy making 465 hp. I have looked at the chassis works front beam and suspension. I believe I can modify the beam set up to build in better adjustment and add to the rear of it to provide engine mounts for the short v6 and keep it as far back as is reasonable. But as I mentioned earlier, Apex engineered has a new deal about to be introduced. I won't do anything g til I see that setup in completion

Thank you for bringing positivity to the discussion and waking up the thread. I realize how easy it is to hear a comment about what someone might do, and speculate that it will never happen. But I can assure the naysayers, if I can create a better setup without a total butcher job, I will get it done. My track experience has taught me alot. But I know there's alot to learn, hence the reason for the tbread. Feel free to teach me

I agree that the Z suspension is a good setup. But I have never thought that a strut setup is a setup that could be adjusted to most situations. IT has some limitations. All suspensions have limitations. I believe the double a arm suspension offers more options with less trade off. So while i have the car completely stripped, I'd like to make any improvements that I can. At least until I learn more, it seems that the lower control arms on the car are good and I am looking at what it would take to add an upper arm and what its advantages may be. All suggestions are welcome. Just don't beat me up too bad. Roger

My posts seem long to me so I do my best to condense in an effort to shorten the post and provide the viewer the info needed. In doing so it may seem that I am just rambling, especially when talking about suspension because it is all a large component and it is all dynamic. It is true, I don't fully understand all that I should but that's why I'm here. Educate me You may not have seen the apex component I'm referring to. Its not yet introduced and isn't on they're website. Its currently in testing. Thanks Roger

OP is back. Thanks for all the input. I wasn't expecting so much discussion and diversity. So let me try to explain my purpose for the thread and my idea of a suspension swap. The strut arrangement is a good setup when all the geometry is right. My problem is I don't like the fact that the spindle is fixed to the strut. So the suspension will always be at an angle based on the rotating position of the lower control arm. If the suspension is a double a arm setup I feel like I will have more adjustability. I like the idea of setting camber and having built in geometry that the camber remains under compression. So the shorter upper a arm, attached to the chassis at a more outboard point allows negative camber to remain and can be better dialed in. Also, I feel like the suspension will move around less as a double a arm setup. My previous track car was an 09 c6 z06. It was an awesome track car. I found the car to be unparalleled in high speed corners and of course the straights because of the power. Slow corners, I was unable to hang with the good Porsche's. Since I started this thread, I found something in the aftermarket that is for the Z and it is an awesome setup. I can't share anymore than that because I promised I wouldn't share the information. Keep your eye on Apex Engineering. After looking more closely at the rear suspension and fender well of the car, it appears I will have to cut out the inner fender well and move it inward in order to create an attachment point for the upper a arm. The lower one is fine as is. Please share your thoughts on this. I want to do this because of my comfort in double a arms and because of the statement below about roll centers. On a different tangent. I have some roll center questions. Determining roll center is easy enough for front and rear. It seems most cars are set up with a lower roll center in the front and the rear is typically higher. So that puts a roll center axis thru the car front to back not being level. So is that the best set up or is the best setup for cornering and tire wear to have the roll center level. Keep in mind, I realize roll center is dynamic. But is seems if the roll centers were more level it would be a better setup. Having said that, maybe a good cage and stiff chassis with a roll center high in the rear would put alot of pressure on the front outside tire. maybe too much causing a huge push Thanks Roger

HybridZ team. I need your help sourcing many parts and picking your brains based on your experiences please. I am converting my 75' 280z to a track car. Because I'm used to working on other model track cars, I don't know much about part sourcing for the 280. I'm sure the team here has the experience that will help me make the right decisions to create the most competitive car I can build. I'd like to share my plans, and then ask you guys to add anything you've done or let me know things you've done that I shouldn't do. Please share your sources, links, clubs that can help. Below is a list of my plans. Thanks in advance LS3/T56 conversion, headers, Need to know best kits to use. I was thinking of part of it coming from Apex Engineering. They have something new coming. Bigger, better brakes all the way around, I have no clue where to turn. I need vented rotors little stronger spindles, at least 4 pot calipers, would prefer 6 pot fronts Full aero package, splitter, diffuser, side skirts, wing Fuel cell moved forward as far as is reasonable given the rear suspension location Complete suspension redo. Convert the front and rear to double A Arm suspension by adding an upper a a rm. replace struts with coil overs. Has anyone done this Stiffen/beef up chassis. Full CageI got this but would love to see what others have done Mild wide body, tires and wheels, ??????? Racing seats, belts, My wife likes to ride with me on the track how cool is that. Data acquisition and video system Fire suspression Please feel free to make suggestions. I want this car to be all it can be. If it matters to the setup, I track mostly at VIR. Two long straights for speeds reaching 155-165 in a car set up like this. Several 115-135 mph corners. Allow me to give you my backstory that has driven me to this 280z track car. I have been avidly tracking an 09 C6 Z06 corvette. the engine had 610 whp. It was very fast and I was very confident in it. never had any mishaps and was faster than most everyone. Only one full on caged Porsche turbo that I couldn't pass. 9 weeks ago I had open heart surgery. So I sold my Corvette so I'd have cash reserves. Really hurt to sell the car I had so much shop time and seat time in. I health is coming along good, I have owned several early Z cars over the years so it seemed like the most likely choice to get back on the track for not too much money. Plus building the car is at least half the fun. I expect this build will take 1.5 years to build. Thanks for everyone's help

I'm looking for ideas for a better front suspension for my 75 280z track car build. I can buy an aftermarket K member or modify something from the bone yard. I expect I'll end up fabbing something of my own. But I'd like ideas and /or see what others have done. I want to do some version of the double a arm setup. to get rid of the McPherson strut. The strut setup has limitations on the track. Thanks Roger

I expect this is the route I will go. I'll use the Z31 axles and your flange adapter. The the diff end pretty much takes care of itself. and the outer end bolts to the adapter flange? Are you saying the 930 axles are the correct length or does the adapter make up some difference. I thought the cv setup might be lighter and more mechanically efficient.That's mostly what I was interested in.

SO I want to modernize my project a little as I go. I want to use CV joint half shafts. Whats the best way to go about making the conversion. I have heard about getting other diffs like out of an Infinity and using the half shafts that come with those diffs. Any help is appreciated. My car is a 75 and I believe it has the R200 diff with a 3.54 ratio. Any thoughts on modernizing other parts is appreciated as well. The car is being built as a Track Day car. I want to upgrade the brakes as well. I want to install as big and wide wheels as is reasonable the then flare the panels to cover teh tires. What sizes seem to provide the best look and performance. Thanks Roger

So can you explain the advantage of the rear lower control arm being mounted to the main lower control arm. i understand the need for alignment. I assume its for some sort of geometry adjustment while suspension is under compression. Thanks for the explanation. Roger

When you got the new frame rails for the chassis, were they cnc bent? I' considered doing something like that to my car, but maybe a little lighter weight. I saw the Art Morrison front suspension specs and I like that. I had considered digitizing the corvette sub frames and narrowing them up to fit and then duplicating them in chromoly to use the c6 front suspension and brakes. I haven't gotten my mind wrapped around the rear suspension yet. Cheers

Awesome Project. And undying dedication. I'm a composites fabricator so I know the discipline it takes to do what you've done. I also like seeing the c6 corvette components as i track day a c6 z06. Have you had a chance to make the shake down runs and get any performance info. I was going to install a vq35 in my Z. But I've decided to go with a 4 banger SR20det. Id love for you to make a few of the parts you made for me, specifically the dash and front end. and rear diffuser. No need for me to reinvent the wheel What size wheels are on the car. Cheers Roger

First post, new member. I searched with no luck. Maybe I just don't know my way around the site yet So, I'm swapping in a SR20DET and trans. I don't have the sr20det components here yet so I can't measure. I want to know where the SR20DET trans shifter location is in relation to the factory Z shifter. The car is being built up as a track day car. I want the lighter weigh and shorter engine to change front to rear balance. So I want to slide the SR back as far as possible to help that. I was wondering what kind of mods I'll have to make to get the shifter close to the same location. the engine is a s13 from a 180sx. Below is a pic of the 5 speed trans for the SRI. Thanks for your help Roger