jvandyke

I just undid the hub side too. Diff is baked, see this thread: Now, what to do about it.......?

finally had time to autopsy;

trying to drop the R180 out of the '72 240, am I right that you have to undo the half shafts at the hubs? I took the nuts off the inboard joints but is there enough room to get them off the studs as the diff drops? I don't think so, should probably undo from the wheel side too, eh?

wow, youtuber fail, fixed now I think, I agree, it's busted. 🤯

video in above post replaced with youtube version, hard to hold the phone on target and grab and turn the driveshaft at the same time, but you get the idea, turns okay until "thud" it turns no more, busted gear I would guess. I was still driving it this way (I imagine the 350 can power past the break whereas my hand strength in turning the driveshaft, although legendary, cannot), very very slowly about 1 mile. I expect I'll see a busted gear in there? it will turn past it (violently) until the next revolution then repeat the process, it was a sad crawl home.......

Raised rear, put in neutral, turned wheels, seemed okay, turned driveshaft and seemed fine until BAM hit a wall. Crappy video attached. the knock you hear is the whole works coming to an abrupt halt. Time to pull the diff me thinks. Youtube version

no idea on HP or torque numbers, ZZ4 crate 350, 700r4 auto, it is a little monster and we love it. Very much a "rat rod" and we both (my son and I) kinda like it that way. Okay I'm thinking the R200 if they can be had. autopsy comes first of course but pretty sure the 180 is baked.

okay, will do. So far all I did was lift the right rear and turn the wheel, certainly a bit of slop but not excessive but it was in gear and the left rear was still on the ground so will raise both and put in neutral and see what it feels like, the drive shaft and u joints look okay, gotta love the cable on the front mount, engineering on this build and subsequent "fixes" are, shall we say, questionable, but we own it now so it's on us to put it right. I'll probably be looking to source a full replacement I guess. R200 or the Subaru swap, found some info on that.

So, my kid's Z is sitting here, he's not. I'm human. I took off Friday night, just gunna see if my diff oil top off stopped that weird whining noise, you know, a good dad. I got a little gas, a nice cruise in the sunset. Then outta nowhere some punk kid in a new Challenger blows by me, oh Lord no. I blew by him. We meet at the next light, windows go down and we chat, nice guy. Light turns, I take off like a Bat Outta Hell (because, that's why this thing exists after all) Very fun.......but....... I hear a "bang" and then a rhythmic clunk, I start limping home, the noise is NOT GOOD. I pull over, sure I'll see something slapping around down there....nothing, keep limping........gets worse. I'm under idle speed now....5mph, the noise is very unpleasant. Sounds like someone with a hammer smacking the chassis every revolutionI pull over again, sure I'm gunna see carnage, nothing. Limp home. I think I blew the diff.? Starting homework. I think it's the original R180? (see video). Plan is to pull it and open it and see what's what. Dad might be springing for a new diff.....I'm okay with that. Car is just too good for me, best therapy known to man. Money well spent. Thoughts welcomed.

Sorry I don’t know the difference between JTR and Scarab. I’m a bit of a newbie. I can tell you it’s so far back the original hood catch had to be removed and now it has pins. I’m not sure what my son is going to do long-term to be honest with you. I know what I would do if it were mine, I would go over it from front to back and basically refresh everything make it a bit more Streetable and drive it everywhere but I’m just his wrench. We’ve taken it a long way in the last year from barely running to running decent, stopping well and have done some maintenance to it and he’s driving it daily. I’m completely happy just listening to it start up and watching it go down the road, makes me smile; mission accomplished. Of course it’s fun to drive but I’m pretty sure I’d be arrested If I got too comfortable with it

It seems many hot rodders run both and have the electric as a manual swtich to prime the system for faster starts (carbs, fill the bowls and flush out air from vapor locking) and add more fuel if needed for high load runs. Electric can push through the mechanical and mechanical can draw through the electric (if the "right" type electric). I like the concept but probably won't pursue it unless needed.

I'm wondering about repositioning the brake pedal to get more room for feet, with no clutch pedal there's room to move over, old ground? I'm not finding much searching......yet. Install automatic transmission pedal box? Not easy to come by I would think

Well my kid (it's his car really) told me to leave the pump alone, he doesn't mind the buzz so I'm letting that one be.

I have an Airtex in hand, probably 30gph, I have no idea if that's enough to supply it under heavy load. I think this is what I have, the numbers sort of match. I can't even remember what I pulled it out of or why anymore. It seems to work fine. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/atx-e8012s/reviews/

it is still under tension when unloaded, I will just block it for now, maybe not even lowered at all, just fitted with massive oversize wheels/tires and not cut out enough

The carter fuel pump is so obnoxiously loud. I think the ZZ4 has a spot for a mechanical pump, was thinking of installing both, switching the electric to use as a primer if needed but leaving it off otherwise. Research says this is doable. Might be a lot of needless work and risk just to shut up the stupid pump. I'm pretty sure a standard mechanical pump at 7psi should supply the juice just fine, could be wrong. Something like this https://www.summitracing.com/parts/crt-m4685/overview/year/1967/make/chevrolet If the mechanical failed and you resorted to electric and pumped your gas tank into your crankcase, that would be bad.

pulled left rear wheel, this is what I see, so far I just cheated with a couple coil spring blocks, no idea what I'm looking at, it's blue.

Ended up with an inexpensive 16" https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014KK7LDY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It fit inside the opening for the old fan so I bolted it to the old shroud, only 1 speed but works okay, don't know if it pulls enough air but it never had a problem over heating (new aluminum radiator). the shroud doesn't really fit so if it can't keep up I'll work on sealing the shroud seams, if it still can't keep up will upgrade

Okay, thanks, I'll try to get it up on the lift and take some pictures and see what's what.

It's a '72 240, built into current form in '96 in Carson City. ZZ4 crate motor, 700r4 automatic, flared, lowered. He found it on craigslist last spring and we couldn't resist. The wiring is a nightmare, the paint job pretty terrible, the interior trashed, it looks great runs great (now) and tears it up, pulls your spleen through the back of the seat.

Now that you gave me hints I think it might be from a '95 3.8, but it doesn't match up perfectly, even so the odds of finding one of those in a junk yard here are slim I think, too old. Rockauto has whole new assemblies for $45! Oh well, if this doesn't work, I can always get one of those new....maybe.

What's the easiest way to add a little ride height to the rear? My kids' hacked up drag racer is too low in the back and we have tire rub too often. I'm assuming (at this point) it's mostly stock bits. I'm thinking taller spacers (#13 below) might do it? Adding another bit to the existing (assuming they are still in there) will give us the 1/2" or so we need? http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsunS30/DatsunZIndex/Axle/RearSuspension/tabid/1731/Default.aspx

It was a dual speed fan from an old Ford it seems. I found a nice Flex-a-lite for sale and ordered it up only to realize it was 24v so I cancelled it. I just ordered a cheap replacement to graft onto the old shroud. It should work out fine. My kid is driving around without any fan, but since it's cool here now and he doesn't go far enough to worry about getting caught in slow traffic he should be alright. The PO had rigged up the old fan using what I thought were some original relays (bolted on inner right fender right under the trouble light) but I don't see these in any 240z engine bay pics so they must also be added relays. They are huge metal things. Anyway, I tore down the old fan motor, being stubborn I wanted to try to revive it but the magnets had let loose and jammed the motor, causing blown fuses and melted wires all through the circuit, after rebuilding it all the motor won't spin up, the commuter rubs the magnets somewhere and it's not worth the hassle anymore. This is the old motor, NLA I guess. https://www.surpluscenter.com/Electrical/DC-Motors/DC-Fan-Motors/1650-2400-RPM-12-VDC-Fan-Motor-Ford-Power-Motion-Mfg-F00U-8K621-BA-PM254X-10-PM254X.axd

The motor in our electric fan grenaded. I can't find much info on 24v fans vs. 12v. I'm assuming if it's a 24v fan it needs a voltage converter of some sort? I'm going to try to rebuild it for fun but when that fails (it's pretty fried) I'll get another,.

We fired her up and the old Drag'n Tach actually still works. I had shorted out the bulb holder in it during an instrument lighting upgrade (LEDs). So for now I'm going to try to resurrect this abmonination. I tore it all down and a trace on the PCB was burned, I'll repair that and if it all still works and lights up then we'll live with it for now. It's one of these from the 90's (as is the whole car so I guess it's "period correct". BTW Does anyone have extra heater control cable clamps to spare? We're missing one.