pochie45566

If the throwout bearing is in backwards, how would that cause a whine when the clutch is engaged? When I press the clutch in and rev the engine there is no whine.

I recently bought a 1983 280zx as a parts car for my well worn 280z. I installed a new clutch kit, the 5 speed, and differential. I made sure to fill the trans with GL-4 SAE 90, and the diff with gl5 75-90. In all gears, there is a rpm whine that gets higher pitch as the rpms increase. It sounds kind of like an electric car 😂. I am inclined to not think it is the differential because every time I shift the whine goes back to its sound at low rpm. It does not happen when the clutch is in so its not the throwout bearing. Doesn't that mean it is the transmission? I made sure to grease the splines of the input shaft when I put it in. Pilot bearing?

I got my new throwout bearing pressed in but for some stupid reason I cannot figure out how to get the throwout bearing spring on? What’s the trick?

I have a 280zx I was trying to get running and suspected a bad ecu so I put a known good ecu form my 280z in. Didn’t work. So I put the ecu back in my z. Suddenly only the rear bank of cylinders were firing. So the first three are all missing. After a bit of research I found out that there are two output transistors inside the Ecu that run the cylinders in banks of three. I have a spare ecu for an auto trans I can use to get these transistors out of but I’m not quite sure which ones they are. I verified it was the ecu by putting the automatic Ecu in my car and it runs well except it idles funny. Can anyone point me in the correct direction of what components to replace inside my ecu? I don’t see anything obviously burnt or disconnected.

Hey guys, So here's my problem. I have my operating temperature idle set at about 775 and on my average morning when I start the car to go anywhere, the car lopes, idles low, and wants to die. It runs rich when cold at around 10.0 AFR roughly which is normal for a cold car. The main issue though is just the dying of the engine until it is up to operating temperature. Heres what I've done. New water temp sensor, new vacuum lines (except for brake booster and a few small others), new AFM, new AAR, Cleaned TB, EGR delete (egr still in place. Vac leak?), New pcv valve and hose. I could really use some guidance on where to go from here. Ive checked most systems through the ecu and they all check out within spec. My car is a 78 280z with a stock motor, only modification is a dual exhaust with MSA 3-2 headers, but this problem was occurring before the exhaust was in place. Could this be a matter of adjusting the AAR? Except I've never figured out how. Any modification I make to the set screw never does anything it seems.

Ive got a 78' 280z that I'm pretty sure has a vac leak somewhere behind the dash because I am not getting any heat and all the vac lines look ok in the under the hood. Could be the solenoids (worth checking before I remove the dash?) Not getting front defog either so it clearly lost vac at the heater door. Anyway, I need to remove the dash to get to the lines back there but the last owner installed a dash cap so I can't get to the bolts needed to remove it. I think these are glued down though? So I am a bit stumped. Any help would be appreciated!

Im really excited to see this build! I’ve been thinking about buying a beater car so I can start my RB25 swap. Though I love using my 78 as a daily. Tank looks awesome, glad to see that you aren’t cutting any corners on this build. Ill be following it!

Issue fixed, the connector on the yellow wire had also built up a good bit of corrosion. Sprayed some contact cleaning spray in there and plugged it in and it works. Thanks guys for sll the help.

Hi guys, got the new sender in, went in with no problems. The old one snapped in half while I was taking it out so I’m pretty sure it was dead. Still though the temp gauge isn’t working. Somewhere I read you can test the wiring back to the gauge by touching that yellow wire to ground and the gauge should read max. Is this correct? Probably a good next step.

Yes, I meant yellow wire. Ill detach that yellow wire from the broken off piece of the sender so that I can get the retaining nut off, pop a new sender in with the retaining nut, then re attach that yellow wire to the end of the new sender. It for some reason feels like that yellow wire doesn’t want to detach from the broken off part of the sender but im sure it’ll come off. I dont have too be to careful with the broken pieces. I knew I came to the right place for great help!

Thank you! I think that black glue is something that the past owner used to glue that back in, it feels hard. Someone mentioned here if i take off that nut that coolant will come out? Then once its out I can just put a new sender in, use the retaining nut, then attach the yellow hose to the end.

I’m in the right spot for sure. I’m just a bit lost on where to go from here lol. I would put a new sender in but that wire is attached to something in there and I don’t want to yank on it. The water temp gauge doesn’t come up on my chiltons service manual either in the diagrams or else I’d just redo the wiring for the gauge from the start. Advice on where to go from here to get that sensor to work? Im sure it’s not as simple as ripping out that wire and putting a sender in lol.

Here’s what I’m talking about, when trying to twist that rubber end off, the whole thing came out revealing a black wire.

Ok, so I got that whole rubber assembly out but it just led to a black wire going further into the thermostat housing and that wire doesn’t want to budge. I thought I’d find the sender in there lol. Thank you very much for your help newzed.

Ok sorry guys, gotta ask what’s going on here. Do I need to remove the retaining nut to access the sender? This yellow wire coming off the sender doesn’t want to come off and I don’t want to tug too hard. Not sure if this is oem or not. How do I get to that retaining nut also without removing the yellow wire?

Ok thanks guys, I think ill just replace it and see what happens. I think it’ll fix the issue, ive read the oem one is pretty fragile. If it is oem. Lol. Ill report back soon.

Sorry for the late reply. Thanks for that, I thought something was wrong but somehow I read somewhere that theres a ground wire which didn't make any sense to me. Can someone tell me the proper way to diagnose the temp gauge problem then? more the sender I guess. I've read that mostly when these things crap out its the sender. but it could also be the wire from the sender to the gauge or the gauge itself.

Hi! I just bought a 1978 280z recently! Almost everything works except my water temp gauge. Ive determined its probably the sender has just crapped out but Id like to test it. Can anyone tell me how? i see the one wire going to the sender (yellow) and when i grabbed for it the whole plug came out and exposed a black wire but it doesnt come any further and I don't want to yank on anything. How do i get it so I can touch the temp sender wire to ground? Sorry for the idiotic question, but i'm new to this stuff. Ive worked on my own cars before but this is my first that has required more than a valve cover gasket and coils while digging around trying to find the sender, I found this electrical plug coming from the rad hose on the bottom? Whats it for?