zliminator

I probably coulda done a search. Dan

nice website, what kind of software did you use to do that with? Dan

and my Gosh, what about the fumes? Of course not. I just want to save some weight. I also have a backup cam I was going to sneak in somewhere. Dan

does anyone know if its illegal to not have a back window? I want to replace the back hatch with a piece of fiberglass and maybe just have some louvers on it. Dan

Dan

Someone told me once of something that works like the things that are similar to how you put together the unassembled furniture kits - its basically a cam with a slot for a standard screwdriver, and when you turn it, it locks into whatever you are attaching it to. Is there something like this used for like firberglass hoods and body parts so I don't have hood pins sticking up all over the place? Dan

I'm designing a cowl induction hood. I have the plug ready for acylic primer and then after wet sanding I'll make the mold, the part and then attach the part to the hood and so on, but I'm wondering if I should block off the section of the scoop that is in front of the air cleaner. IOW, I'm going to make ductwork which directs air from the rear of the scoop, where the opening is and air supposedly bounces off the windshield, into the air cleaner and carb. There will be some extra space in front of the air cleaner just because I wanted the shape to continue towards the front of the hood for asthetics. See my rough diagram at http://www.hampleman.com/hood.htm. I hope this explains my question. Dan

I don't have the motor yet. The guy that is going to sell me the car said his son blew up the motor that's in on his prom night. He said he has a brand new crate motor he will give me and I haven't seen it yet.

I'll explain later...

upper inside: tail lights (running lights) lower inside: reverse (obviously) upper outside: turn signal lower outside: stop light only thing is the 2 on top are dual filament so I guess the upper outside doubles as turn signal and tail lights

That's very good advice. I'll make a printout of it. Dan

It's a new crate motor. I know you drive it for 50 miles and then change the oil. Then you drive for 200? and change the oil.

Does anyone have any info (or can tell me from looking) which lights are for brakes, blinkers, etc. I know which are backup. I'm completely rewiring my Z and using my own wiring. Dan

but I'm not really too clear on what all those terms mean until maybe I can drop the coilover. I don't think I need spring compressors. I will post some pics as soon as I can get my cam working.

my rear coilovers are making a terrible racket when I go over bumps. Its sound like clanging; like somethings loose. Has anyone experienced this? zliminator

I just don't have a grasp on the terminology yet. Dan

I have coil overs that can be adjusted not only up and down but I can adjust the camber by loosening the bolt on top of the coil at the tower. The adjustable cams on the bushings are to adjust the toe-in and toe-out. Sorry if I wasted your time. Thanks. Dan

I have adj cams on the front and rear a-frame bushings on the rear wheels. The tires were (cambered or castered? I don't know which) out too much so that the top of the tire is closer to the car than the bottom and they were wearing on the inside. So I adjusted them and they are still not right. I have a LSD out of a 300ZX in a 240 and I'm wondering if possibly it is shorter or I need longer 1/2 shafts or maybe I could put some adapter plates on it to change the geometry of the wheel. Has anyone had this experience? I can take some pics and post them if need be. Dan

good question Alf, I have a vac meter and I will check it today. I will also check the timing and firing order and get back to you. zliminator

I saw a post sometime ago that described how to bleed brakes using the ports on the master cylinder as well as the ports on the wheels. I tried bleeding the MC and then each wheel and I still seem to have air in the lines. What's the proper procedure? I'm using a friends internet access and don't have time to do a search. I know, lame excuse. Thanks.

to what it should be (71 on primary - 80 on 2ndary) and I did put a #65 power valve in. It seems to be more reasonable now, but like you said, I will do some more homework. BTW, the CR is 10.5:1, I think. The tranny is a 700r4 and the rear end is a LSD out of a 300ZX. Thanks.

the mechanic that built the motor and did most of the conversion work. He insisted that I needed a 750 DP and he also insisted on the 3" dual exhaust. He advertises a lot in the Houston Z car club and I wonder about what he has done to other customers after seeing some of the stuff he did to me. His name is Kin Chan of Reliable Automotive in Houston, TX. He did a good job building the motor, but I think he was suffering from delusions of granduer for the most part.

I just got a Holley 600 off of ebay for $24 that needs rebuilding. And yes, it does have a 700r4. The next thing I probably need to do (after reading the links you gave me) is build an o2 monitor. I already have the sensor and the bung in my exhaust pipe. zliminator

I had a 350 built that was supposedly barely streetable - 500 lift cam, oversized valves, 1 5/8 headers - and its been running really rich - flooding out easy, black spark plugs, fumes. The carb thats on it is a Holley 750 DP with mech 2ndary and someone told me that all I needed was a 600cfm. Then I called another mechanic I know and he said that I needed the 750. The list # is 4779-5. It takes a #71 jet in the primary and a #80 jet in the 2ndary and a #65 power valve. I'm going to put the right jets in it and drive it again, but I just wanted to get some opinions. zliminator

I went out and bought a 1" open end wrench and it seems to keep turning. I did tighten up the bolts to the pan. I hope that's it. The picture of it can be seen at http://www.hampleman.com/trans.htm. I'm pretty sure its trans fluid and not motor oil. Thanks.