zliminator

I looked at hagerty and they want your car in a garage, which I don't have and it can't have a roll cage which I do have. Thanks Dan, but I'll keep looking...

No, really. My policy with State Farm is 330/6months in FL no collision. I don't drive it (my V8 Z which gets 8mpg) more than 20miles a month. I'm almost 50 with a perfect driving record. Is there a cheap ins co. anyone could recommend? Or is 660/year not bad? Dan

but its probably easier than you think. Just start reading the documentation on megasquirt. Its all there.

It'll probly go up to 250. That's my max bid. I'm going to wait till the last 30 seconds.

intercooler? I figured about $250 tops. -zliminator

After the fuel pump runs for about 10 seconds, fuel starts pouring into the 2ndaries down the 2 venturies? and up the tube which points straight up. Is this a sign that my float is stuck open? I have a Holley 750dp. Its been a while since I adjusted the floats but I didn't do anything to upset it except take it off and spray it with carb cleaner. It probably needs a rebuild too. zliminator

and they need a spacer on the front and back - I have Toyota 4 piston calipers on the front and 300ZX calipers on the back. I have a spacer on the front and I'm shopping for a set for the back. I need about an extra 1" to clear the caliper.

the temperature on each exhaust header? As far as I can tell there is. I just went threw adjusting them all. (see http://www.hampleman.com/z-car.htm) I loosened until they started clicking, then tightened until it stopped, then turned them in 1/2 turn. I measured temps and got most around 350 some as low as 300 and 1 or 2 as high as just under 500. I think that's too hot. The engine temp at the sensor (using infared thermometer) is around 170 - 180. As far as I know there are no leaks on the intake manifold. I haven't checked that yet. Dan

I think I am going to sell the headers on ebay and buy some block hugger headers that have the collector flange much closer to the ports, then redo the entire exhaust with 2.5". Thanks for all your comments. Dan

I posted another picture on the website (http://www.hampleman.com/clearance.htm). The top of the Koni coil-overs come threw the strut tower. I guess I have 3 choices: 1) Put taller tires on it. 2) Weld new strut towers in so the coil-overs sit lower (they are adjusted all the way up). 3) Find or fab some headers the give more clearance. I may try some taller tires first. Thanks for the help. Dan

I just got my V8 project car as far as the driveway (a 1st) and took some pictures of the ground clearance. It looks like speedbumps are out of the question. I've got a little less the 3" at the lowest point. Take a look at http://www.hampleman.com/clearance.htm and let me know what you think. I have Koni adjustable struts and they're up as far as they will go. I will be putting taller tires on it and that will give me another 1/2". Dan

Thanks guys, that's good news.

I did have them off earlier. Tell me that the bleeders are supposed to be on the bottom for 300ZX rear calipers. If not then maybe that's why I can't seem to get the sponge out of it. Also, when I had them off, the line going to the back was capped off and they seemed to work ok as far as not having the spongy feel. Dan

I have an Optima battery in the rear and I'm thinking about mounting it below the deck like Dan did (except in the middle - my mufflers are on the outside). I was thinking about putting another battery in parallel with it since I have a high-torque starter for the 11:1 CR. My question is this: would it be ok to buy a regular battery from Autozone or whatever and put it in parallel with the Optima or is there a difference in the charge rate and capacity and so forth? Since they are going to be sealed I may as well buy another 2 standard batteries because I already have a new one and besides, I don't mind having more weight in the back because with the V8 in the front and I need more weight dist. and traction. Dan BTW - I know its not supposed to be in series, that would be 24v.

I have 3.5 Flowmasters on my V8Z and was thinking of doing the rear interior in fiberboard insulation or ductboard. I was going to post a question as to what kind of material would provide the most sound deadening if you had plenty of room and you weren't going to put the original plastic interior panels back. I have used something called dyna-mat which was a tar-like thick sheet with one side sticky you could put on your inside door panels. This is used in high-volume car audio a lot. I may do this on the inside doors and rear panels and then go over that with ductboard. http://www.hampleman.com/exhaust.htm

But, yeah, I guess I could do that. - Or maybe just buy some quieter ones and stick 'em onto the end of the loud ones temporarily.

My exhaust is fairly loud and I want to piss off the nice people next door as little as possible. I was thinking of getting a 55gal drum and doing some piping so that it would quite it down while I'm running it in the backyard (my outdoor garage). I was wondering what would be a good baffling to use inside the drum. Any ideas? I haven't done a search yet because it seemed such a radical idea. Give me a sec and I'll post some pics to my website: http://www.hampleman.com/exhaust.htm Dan

I'll do a search for those wheels and I'll check out the other forums too. Thanks, Dan

The rims I want to use will not clear the 300ZX calipers on the rear. Should I use wheel spacers or go with new calipers from outlaw brakes: http://www.fonebooth.com/brakes_zcar.html Someone told me that spacers were very dangerous at high speeds. The other option would be to sell the rims and buy ones that are deeper. Thanks for all your help. Dan

I have a booster from a late model ZX (280 or 300), but my question should have been not if I need one but how it works and how its made. I don't think its more than a can, some tubing, connectors and a check valve. I guess all I need to know is where the check valve goes. Any ideas? Dan

The carb is a Holley 750 double and the tranny is a 700R4. Front brakes are from a Toyota 4x4 and rear are 300ZX calipers. Hope that helps. Dan

And if I do, could I fabricate one? My engine is a 350 SBC in a 240Z. With an 11:1 CR and 505 lift cam the idle is plenty lumpy and it floods out easily. I just got the brakes bled last night and realized that the reason I kept hearing air whoosing in the master cylinder was because the hose connection from the booster to the manifold was not hooked up. (Duh!) I just know that everytime I come to a stop and let off the gas to hit the brakes its gonna die on me in traffic. I was wondering if there's an easy way to fabricate a vacuum canister using a coffee can (or whatever container) and check valve. Any ideas? Thanks folks! I'll be sure to post some pics on my website and leave the link to it in a message. Dan

Thanks GrumpyVette and strotter for the really helpful suggestions. Now, here's another question: I read the temp on each header and the one at the back on the passenger side is very hot - 500 degrees plus when it warms up. The others are within reason but I do see noticeable differences. I was thinking the valves were out of adjustment and it was causing this problem by not letting enough fuel into the piston. I was also thinking (someone told me) that it could also be a result of the piston before the no. 8 that had valves out of adjust and would cause a an airflow problem in the manifold. Guess there's one way to find out... zliminator

I just did a search and found this: "now if the lifters are hydraulic of course you just back the adjustment nuts off the rocker studs with a wrench, slowly until the rocker starts clicking , then slowly tighten the nut just up to the point that the clicking stops then add 1/4 to 1/2 turn to preload the lifter and move to the next rocker and repeat, the only differance with solid lifters is you use a feeler gauge inserted between the valve tip and rocker after they click slightly,to measure the lash distance recomended on the cam spec. card (normally .016-.028 thousands) and you tighten them just to the point at idle that the clicking stops... then you remove the feeler gauge and move to the next rocker if your useing jam nuts dont forget to lock the allen key..." I have some valve covers with the tops cut out. I'm going to tape some cardboard or plastic around the tops to keep splattering oil all over.

what is the procedure for adjusting valves on a 350? The lifters are hydraulic. I will post pictures of it on my website within a few days. zliminator