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  1. I know this is an old post, but I am just trying to get my post count up. You will need a robust EFI fuel pump, like the mentioned Walbro 255, or a Bosch 044, or AEM or whatever (lots of options out there). This pump should be run off its own dedicated power source using a relay and 15 or 20 A fuse. Unless you are going to cut apart your stock fuel tank, that pump will probably be mounted under the car near the fuel tank. It will suck fuel out of the tank and send it high pressure, through a 10 micron filter, to the engine. The return fuel from the regulator then needs a nice restriction-free path back to the tank. 5/16 feed line work fine for your power numbers. The stock tank is terrible for preventing fuel slosh/starvation, so just be aware of that. One thing to check is to make sure your fuel pressure is within the stock parameters after your fuel system is set up. Sometimes a high-flow pump can be too much for the OEM regulator, and it cant't bleed off fuel fast enough to keep pressure down. If you are getting a new tune, then fuel pressure becomes less of an issue because the tuner can compensate in the software.
  2. Hi everyone, Got a brake question. Since getting my 1973 240z on the road and running after an intensive tear down and rebuild, all has been good except for the brakes. For some reason, with even the slight amount of pressure, the brakes grab really hard. So when I drive I have to barely feather the pedal to brake normally. When I pull the vaccum line off of the booster, the opposite happens, the brakes take a LOT of effort to decelerate normally. So I am thinking the booster may be providing too much assistance. Wondering if you guys have ever experienced something like this in your builds? Brake system "brake-down" -240z Original booster (tested and working) -Aftermarket check valve installed in vacuum line (the correct direction) -Vacuum line connected to the crossover tube on the intake manifold (SU carbs). OEM has the vacuum connection on one of the runners. -1981 280zx master cylinder 15/16" -wilwood proportioning valve (for rear brakes) with built in splitter for front brakes L and R. -toyota 4-piston front calipers with vented Z31 rotors -maxima rear disc brake conversion -All new hard lines and brake hoses. Any feedback is welcome. I will be repairing a very minor leak in one of the inverted flare hard line connections soon and can use the opportunity to try to solve this issue. Thank you! -Aaron
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