Thaniel

Right now there isn't a speed sensor. Currently the wire from my speedometer is dangling in the air I'll have to rig up a sensor off the drive shaft or one of the hubs or something. That will have to wait until later though.

See http://www.torquecentral.com/showth...9953#post199953 So far it seems like it is going to be a great car. Too soon to tell for sure as I haven't had enough time with it on the road.

Well I tried to hook up the speedometer to the 350z trans. Bad news. There is no speed sensor on the trans. The speed signal is derrived from the ABS sensors. Always something. Check it out for yourself below is a link from a 350z forum with documentation. http://www.350zforum.com/net/viewmsg.aspx?forum=technical&msg_id=4597

The VQ and the VG in the Z32 are totally different engines with hardly any interchangeable parts. VG is iron block' date=' VQ is aluminum, and everything else is different also.[/quote'] Yep they are very different.

Yes...well sort of. Here are a couple of links for you. The block on the VQ30 maxima does bolt to the trans but that is only one problem. see the links for more info and a few pics. Sorry nothing on the shifter linkage. Shame too as I really like it. http://www.torquecentral.com/showth...9953#post199953 http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=320250&page=1&pp=30

FYI the drive shaft from made from the G35 driveshaft works. Now all I lack is finishing up. I have put about 10 miles on the car right now. I really need to finish the exhaust before driving much more. Thaniel

I thought it was a Coolant seal? You can put an SR20DET into a FC3S easy just make some engine mount brackets make yourself a transmission mount get a driveshaft made blam Coolant seals are also a popular way for a rotary engine to die. However the coolant seal blowing usually progresses slowly over time until the car just spits coolant out (but usually runs just fine). When apex seals break and the effect is now it runs perfect now it runs on half a engine. I could actually hear the parts of the apex seal rattle around in the engine for a while until they were spit out the exhaust port. Now the car runs on only one rotor. As far as swaps.....I already have one in progress on my '91. My 86 will be decommisioned and used for parts

Here is some info if anyone else is interested. The 350z trans output shaft is a 32 spline and is not common to any of the older nissan vehicles. The 350z has a "composite and plastic" drive shaft. The G35 has a steel drive shaft. The G35 sedan has a 2 piece driveshaft. I bought a G35 sedan (6 speed manual) trans from a salvage yard. The u-joints are pressed in. No real surprize. The joints however appear to be worn already. Couldn't be more than a year or 2 old. I don't get it. I have also been told the 2004 nissan Titan has the same slip yoke but with removable u-joints. According to my favorite nissan dealer the driveshaft is only sold as an assembly. I haven't found any in a salvage yard so I can't verify that it fits. Basically anyone wanting to use a 350z trans in a swap I suggest figuring out what you are going to do on the driveshaft FIRST. It seems to be a problem. At least until more parts are available. I'm sending what I have to a custom drive shaft shop to see what they can make out of what I have. I've got my fingers crossed.

I've owned a rx-7 for nearly 10 years. Drive it to work every day. That is until yesterday. Broke an Apex seal. They are fun but the engines don't last like nissans.

Does any body have a 300z trans yoke they could measure for me??

I am in need of a slip yoke that will fit a 350z 6 speed manual trans so I can have a custom drive shaft fabricated. I can not locate any info on what replacement part# (rockford, neapco, spicer) I might use. I was wondering if it would be the same as a 300z. However, I can not locate information for the 300z slip yoke either. From my crude measuring the output shaft of the 350z is 32 spline aprox 34mm dia and around 126mm long. ID of the trans seal is around 44mm. Do these dims match a 300z or any other? Any other suggestions? Help anyone??

Allen22 sent you an e-mail.

http://obddiagnostics.com/

Yes the NATS was a concern of mine. However it turned out well. I purchased an ECU, IMMU and key all from the same vehicle (different vehicle than the engine). Wired it up and it works great without having to reprogram anything. (the IMMU is the box that bolts to the ingnition switch to read the code from the transponder in the key) An LED will light if there is a problem with the NATS system (wrong key etc). I was sure relieved when I switched on the power and it showed no problems. A few days later I was even happier when I had the engine running If a matching ECU, IMMU and Key are not used then the new combination can be programmed by the nissan dealer to accept the key code. I have not found any ways around the NATS without going to a stand alone ECU. Keeping the NATS happy doesn't seem all that hard though.

From what I've seen the inexpensive scan tools just give the error codes. The more expensive scan tools and the ones that hook to laptops and PDA's allow real time data gathering (temp, rpm, o2 sensor, timing advance etc). I haven't seen an OBDII that does OBDI. One may be out there but I haven't seen it. I bought a scan tool that hooks to my laptop (would work with a desktop model as well). Works really nice and the scan tool was about $80. I've used it on my project car when I did the initial startup as I don't have the dash. It was nice to use the laptop to get the RPM's and Temps and see all the codes I got for not having the emissions all hooked up. As far as can you get the codes to flash on the dash... That is vehicle specific. Have to hit up a Buick expert or find a manual on it. Lots of nissans have a screw on the ecu that is turned and then LED lights flash the codes.

That'd be me . and it is more than "gonna put in the rx-7" It is in there already. The 350z trans bolts right up to the maxima block. There are issues with the starter and the clutch and on and on. However with enough time and cutting etc just about anything is possible. By the way I ran the engine in my project car the other day. Maybe before too long I'll be driving it

Yah that engine is appealing. I had considered it for my project but unless you use the slush box it came with it would be lots of work. I decided that a manual trans meant more to me. The other downer is that it is VERY tall. Make sure you have clearance.

Rotary's are compact but the intake makes them bulky. They are very simple but the cast iron front, mid and end housings make them heavy. Alum housings are available but big $$$. They do rev free but have little torque so you must always play in the high rpm range. Launching with high RPM takes its toll on the clutch. Parts for rotaries are only made by a few companies. I've ordered parts from atleast 4 and they all came with mazda OEM packaging and part#'s (monopoly anyone). With that said I've been driving a rotary powered car for 10 years nearly every day. My project car has a very common nissan engine in it.

Well my out of the box thought was to take a readily available FWD engine and put it into a RWD application. To this day I still look at it and scratch my head as to why I thought it was a good idea. Going to finish it anyway.

How about a nissan VQ30 or VQ35. Aprox 190lbs and 190-280 hp depending on which version you choose.

I think the front of the crank may be different in the VG 3.3 vs the 3.0. If I remember right I read about a guy taking a 3.3 and 3.0 and mixing them in his pathfinder. Seems he had to remachine the front of the crank to reuse his 3.0 accesories.