RDuff

It has been awhile. I finally was able to just recently get back to working on the Z and I want to thank jhm , the copper washers you sent the link for, work, and all my leaks are fixed. It was a little tricky keeping them in place on the distribution block at the back. Thanks again

The one on the right is a proportioning valve which, according to Motorsport is first found on 73s and which is normally located on the fire wall. The proportioning valve for a 71 is located in the back by the differential. On your 71 you should find the valve in the back connected to the T that splits the left and right brakes by an S shaped hardline.

Is there any reason that a switch brake indicator for a 75 280z will not work on a 71 240z? Visually the only difference I can see is there is only one outlet that can be used for the drivers side front brake. Functionally I would think they are no different. Thanks, Duff

As far as I know ,up through the 1983 ZX they never used bubble flares.

71 240Z takes a double inverted flare, not a bubble flare. Talked to Don at Classic Tube. The suggestion is to keep doing the tighten, back off ,retighten scenario, it will eventually do the job. As he said they have sold quite a few of the kits so that’s not the problem, the problem is the hardness of stainless versus the softer original tubing. Their site even mentions replacing the old parts you are connecting to with new. We all know that’s not going to happen.

The flares are double flares. So far I have replaced the master cylinder with a brand new one. I have tried two different brake light indicators, have a third one yet to try. Three of the five connection on the brake light indicator are fine. The one going to the rear ,and the one going to the passenger front leak. Both of the proportioning valve leak , and one of the three in the block that splits to the rear brake leak. The two rear brake connections are not leaking the two front do. I have assembled the whole master cylinder brake light indicator connections out of the Z except for the connections going to the rear and passenger front and still get the leaks. All connections were threaded in finger tight to avoid cross threading, then tightened, backed off, retightened four times. Some seal ,some do not. I will keep trying , may be they will eventually seat. Hope full someone else has had this and has an answer. Thanks

Recently purchased Classic Tube complete stainless ket for my 2/71 240z. And I am having trouble getting a good seal at several connections. Just wondering if anyone else had had the same problem, and if so how it was corrected. Thanks.

I have bought and returned master cylinders because they are not interchangeable. My Z was built 2/71. Even though the dimensions of the “nut” are the same( take a 24 mm wrench) my older MC has a larger bore than the newer ones that the plug screws into.

Thanks guys. I have ordered a new master cylinder for a 72 and will reverse the reservoirs. I am still trying to find a replacement for the defective hardline connector for the original MC( see my post in parts wanted). Even though my Z is not completely original I would like to keep it as close as possible. Fifty years ago I bought my first Z. 45 years ago my new wife and I took it on a cross country trip. In1988 I bought my second Z, my current Z. Hoping to make some trips. It was a Scarab conversion. In a month I will be 75, with age my need for speed has lessened. I replaced the 327 ,4 speed with an 83 ZX motor and 5 speed. Installed SUs and did a ground up restore. HybridZ over the years has been a great source and help. So thanks again . Duff

I guess my question should have been why the switch of position on the master cylinder of the front and rear . The brake light indicator simply notes a change in pressure between front and rear. It shouldn’t matter which side of the indicator the lines going into it are, as long as the output side are correspondingly attached. The proportioning vale on the 71 Z is at the back of the Z just before the distribution block for the back brakes so I do not see how it would be affected. The reason for the for this topic this is one of the plugs on this rare master cylinder leaks and since I in stalled a NOS rebuild kit I am hoping to some day to find a replacement plug, in the meantime I would like to drive it without having to reroute the MC lines. Based on the photo I saw it seems you can use a newer MC using the current hardline.

The general consensus is that if you change from the early master cylinder to a newer on, say from a 72, you need to reroute the hardlines because the front reservoir is moved to the back and vice versa. Today while just looking at things 240z I came across a build picture shows a Wilwood master that has the reservoirs reversed ,but is using the old routing.. The front goes to the front side of the brake light indicator and the back to the back. So my question is it really necessary to change the hardline routes if you go to a newer than early Z master cylinder? Or do only Wilwoods allow this? thanks, duff p.s. I am not really a newbie, my old user somehow got screwed up and unusable so I had to make a new one.

I am looking for an early 1971 master brake cylinder for parts that someone may have laying around after upgrading. What I need is the plug that the hard lines screw into. Mine leaks from the rear brake connection due to the cone that fits into the hardline flare is flattened and no longer fits tightly into the hardline.The plug I am looking for is the large one 1 1/8" to 1 1/4" across depending how you measure the flats or the points. Thanks

I bought mine from Zcardepot also, on eBay. I found another supplier that I may try, but if theirs are from the UK also, I do as you did and by a master cylinder.

I have a 240Z built 2/71 which means the hard to find old style MC with the front brake reservoir is toward the front of the Z. I decided to rebuild rather than buy the 9/71 and later version and have to reroute the hard lines. After bleeding the MC,when I bleed the brakes fluid moves from the front reservoir goes to the rear reservoir which then overflows. As far as I ca n tell I replaced all the rubber collars facing the correct direction in the MC. Any idea where I went wrong,other than not buying a new MC? Thanks for any help. By the way I am not a newbie, forgot my password, changed email provider, cannot use old user id. duff