[240z lower quarter panel replacement. Yay or nay.]

I recently just finished the pass side dogleg repair. The replacement panel is fairly close in fitment. It wrapped around the door sill enough, and extended to the outer rocker seam. I actually cut my panel below the stock contour so the repair wouldn’t be noticeable. I feel that if I had cut it right at the contour it would be noticeable. One thing to be prepared for is rust on the inner rocker when you cut it open, but luckily it won’t be visible so just repair and paint it. 

[Rotisserie question]

Thanks all. I don’t have major cutting to do. My rockers are solid, just repair one dogleg and floors are the structural parts. The other parts are cosmetic sheet metal work and scraping the undercoating. 

[Rotisserie question]

I just acquired a rotisserie and had some questions before putting the car on. Do i need to brace the body anywhere or is the stock body stiff enough? I planned on removing all the glass, but is it mandatory to not break while on the rotisserie from chassis flex?

[Door skin rust question]

I’ll probably end up doing that thanks. The thing i’m worried about is if it ends up needing a lip, and welding in such a narrow piece. 

[Door skin rust question]

I have rust on the flange of the door skin where it’s folded over. Should i cut the lip or unfold the lip and rust treat?

[73 240z - Ready to swap 2JZ-GTE]

I specifically purchased my 1jz vvti mostly to avoid some of the issues outlined. My engine was factory rear sump, and came with newer style R154. The correct pan can be purchased new for around $700, but that would raise the purchase price of an already expensive 2JZ. Yes used pans can be found, but even those are not that cheap bc of the demand. Compression testing should be done by the purchaser so you can verify accuracy of readings. I haven’t seen many instances of JZ’s that low. 

[Another No start/Hard start]

Hooked up a fuel pressure gauge, and it’s getting 36psi in half a second of cranking. FPR not leaking. Checked ignition pickup gap .3mm

I don’t think i’m going to spend anymore time diagnosing since I want to focus on getting the body done. 

[Another No start/Hard start]

Checked air regulator valve, it’s not functioning but it’s not stuck closed. I cleaned it and the blade moves freely, even though I think the heating element is bad. 

[Another No start/Hard start]

Hello all, yes it’s another no start thread. Yes I have searched, and no definite answer. So the car is a stock 77 280, that has sat for years. Tank and pump were gummed up. I’m running out from fuel can with new aftermarket pump. So i have gone through bible etc and I have a long history of mechanical knowledge, and yet i’m stuck. The car cranks and doesn’t run on it’s own. Runs on starting fluid. 

Here’s what I have done: verified spark at each plug and new plugs. 

Cleaned and Checked injectors by running them into small bottles. All injectors spraying. CSV functioning normally. No leaking injectors. 

Capped all unnecessary vacuum ports. 

Repaired rat chewed wires. 

Cleaned green connectors. 

Verified values at ecu connector. 

Checked CTS for operation. 

Compression test 120psi 1-3, 130psi 4-6

Cam timing is correct. 

AFM is clean under the cover, and pump circuit functional.  Air temp readings normal. 

Pump functioning in “start”

 

what I have not done is verified fuel pressure at rail. Currently the car starts and stalls. Plugs getting wet, and when I swap/ clean it starts up but stalls. It starts and runs for 10-20 seconds with just cold start valve, but injectors disconnected. Advancing the distributor seems to help, but doesn’t run. Rotor seems to be facing between 1&5 at TDC. So right now with injectors plugged in it floods, and with them disconnected it starts until it burns all the fuel. 

I will grab a fuel pressure gauge from work but I’m not sure that is the problem. Any thoughts?

[1978 280z Part out]

Nothing for sale?