Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Donations

    0.00 USD 
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

  • Feedback


BoostLee last won the day on May 7

BoostLee had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

1 Neutral

About BoostLee

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Thanks all. I don’t have major cutting to do. My rockers are solid, just repair one dogleg and floors are the structural parts. The other parts are cosmetic sheet metal work and scraping the undercoating.
  2. I just acquired a rotisserie and had some questions before putting the car on. Do i need to brace the body anywhere or is the stock body stiff enough? I planned on removing all the glass, but is it mandatory to not break while on the rotisserie from chassis flex?
  3. I’ll probably end up doing that thanks. The thing i’m worried about is if it ends up needing a lip, and welding in such a narrow piece.
  4. I have rust on the flange of the door skin where it’s folded over. Should i cut the lip or unfold the lip and rust treat?
  5. I specifically purchased my 1jz vvti mostly to avoid some of the issues outlined. My engine was factory rear sump, and came with newer style R154. The correct pan can be purchased new for around $700, but that would raise the purchase price of an already expensive 2JZ. Yes used pans can be found, but even those are not that cheap bc of the demand. Compression testing should be done by the purchaser so you can verify accuracy of readings. I haven’t seen many instances of JZ’s that low.
  6. Hooked up a fuel pressure gauge, and it’s getting 36psi in half a second of cranking. FPR not leaking. Checked ignition pickup gap .3mm I don’t think i’m going to spend anymore time diagnosing since I want to focus on getting the body done.
  7. Checked air regulator valve, it’s not functioning but it’s not stuck closed. I cleaned it and the blade moves freely, even though I think the heating element is bad.
  8. Hello all, yes it’s another no start thread. Yes I have searched, and no definite answer. So the car is a stock 77 280, that has sat for years. Tank and pump were gummed up. I’m running out from fuel can with new aftermarket pump. So i have gone through bible etc and I have a long history of mechanical knowledge, and yet i’m stuck. The car cranks and doesn’t run on it’s own. Runs on starting fluid. Here’s what I have done: verified spark at each plug and new plugs. Cleaned and Checked injectors by running them into small bottles. All injectors spraying. CSV functioning normally. No leaking injectors. Capped all unnecessary vacuum ports. Repaired rat chewed wires. Cleaned green connectors. Verified values at ecu connector. Checked CTS for operation. Compression test 120psi 1-3, 130psi 4-6 Cam timing is correct. AFM is clean under the cover, and pump circuit functional. Air temp readings normal. Pump functioning in “start” what I have not done is verified fuel pressure at rail. Currently the car starts and stalls. Plugs getting wet, and when I swap/ clean it starts up but stalls. It starts and runs for 10-20 seconds with just cold start valve, but injectors disconnected. Advancing the distributor seems to help, but doesn’t run. Rotor seems to be facing between 1&5 at TDC. So right now with injectors plugged in it floods, and with them disconnected it starts until it burns all the fuel. I will grab a fuel pressure gauge from work but I’m not sure that is the problem. Any thoughts?
  • Create New...